Balayage with Money Piece: Brightening Your Front

A balayage with a money piece is a highly sought-after hair coloring technique that offers a beautiful, sun-kissed look while strategically brightening the face. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from preparation to maintenance, ensuring you achieve salon-quality results at home or know exactly what to ask for at your salon. We’ll focus on practical, actionable steps, providing concrete examples for each stage.

Understanding Balayage and the Money Piece

Before diving into the “how-to,” let’s clarify what we’re aiming for. Balayage is a freehand painting technique where highlights are swept onto the hair, creating a soft, natural gradient with less noticeable regrowth lines. The “money piece,” also known as a face-framing highlight, involves lightening the strands directly around your face. This combination offers the best of both worlds: a natural, low-maintenance overall look with a striking, brightening effect where it matters most.

Pre-Color Preparation: Setting the Stage for Success

Proper preparation is crucial for achieving vibrant, even results and minimizing damage. Don’t skip these steps!

1. Hair Health Assessment

Actionable Step: Examine your hair’s current condition. Is it dry, brittle, or previously colored?

Example: If your hair feels rough and tangles easily, it’s likely dry. If you’ve colored it recently (within the last 4-6 weeks), it might be more porous and susceptible to damage.

Why it matters: Healthy hair holds color better and is less prone to breakage. Damaged hair can absorb color unevenly, leading to patchiness or an undesirable tone.

2. Deep Conditioning Treatment

Actionable Step: Apply a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask 1-2 times a week for at least two weeks leading up to your coloring session.

Example: Use a protein-rich mask if your hair feels weak, or a moisturizing mask if it’s dry. Leave it on for the recommended time, usually 15-30 minutes, before rinsing thoroughly.

Why it matters: This step infuses your hair with moisture and nutrients, strengthening it and preparing it to better handle the lightening process. Hydrated hair also absorbs bleach more evenly.

3. Hair Washing Schedule

Actionable Step: Wash your hair 1-2 days before coloring. Avoid washing on the same day.

Example: If you plan to color on Saturday, wash your hair on Thursday or Friday. This allows natural oils to build up, which offers a protective barrier for your scalp and hair during the bleaching process.

Why it matters: Freshly washed hair is stripped of its natural oils, making it more vulnerable to irritation and damage from chemicals.

4. Gather Your Supplies

Actionable Step: Before you begin, lay out all your necessary tools.

Example:

• Bleach Kit: Choose a high-quality kit suitable for at-home use. Look for one with a reputable brand and clear instructions.

• Developer: Typically comes with the bleach kit. The volume (e.g., 20 or 30) determines the lifting power. For at-home use, 20 volume is generally recommended to minimize damage.

• Non-metallic Mixing Bowl and Applicator Brush: Essential for safe and even application.

• Foil or Plastic Wrap: For isolating sections, especially the money piece.

• Gloves: Crucial for protecting your hands from chemicals.

• Old Towels and Clothes: Protect your surfaces and clothing from stains.

• Hair Clips (Non-metallic): For sectioning your hair.

• Comb: For precise parting.

• Toner (Purple or Blue): To neutralize unwanted yellow or orange tones after bleaching.

• Deep Conditioner/Bond Repair Treatment: To use immediately after rinsing the bleach.

Why it matters: Having everything readily available prevents interruptions and ensures a smooth, efficient application process.

5. Patch Test and Strand Test

Actionable Step: Perform both a patch test and a strand test 48 hours before full application.

Example:

• Patch Test: Apply a small amount of the mixed bleach solution to a discreet area of skin (e.g., behind your ear or inner elbow). Check for any redness, itching, or irritation after 48 hours.

• Strand Test: Mix a tiny amount of bleach and apply it to a small, hidden section of your hair (e.g., from the nape of your neck). Monitor the lightening process and check for desired lift and any damage. This helps determine the processing time for your hair type.

Why it matters: The patch test ensures you don’t have an allergic reaction to the chemicals. The strand test gives you an accurate idea of how long the bleach needs to stay on your hair to achieve the desired lightness, preventing over-processing and damage.

The Application Process: Step-by-Step

This is where the magic happens. Take your time, work in small sections, and be methodical.

1. Sectioning for Balayage

Actionable Step: Divide your hair into manageable sections.

Example: Create four main sections:

• Two front sections: From your ear forward on each side. These will be for your money piece and some balayage.

• Two back sections: The remaining hair behind your ears.

Why it matters: Proper sectioning ensures you can work systematically and apply the bleach evenly, preventing missed spots or overlapping.

2. Preparing the Bleach Mixture

Actionable Step: Carefully follow the instructions on your bleach kit to mix the bleach powder and developer in your non-metallic bowl.

Example: If the instructions say “1 part bleach to 2 parts developer,” measure precisely to achieve the correct consistency. The mixture should be thick enough to stay on the brush without dripping, but not so thick that it’s difficult to spread.

Why it matters: Incorrect mixing ratios can lead to ineffective lightening or increased damage.

3. Applying the Balayage: Technique is Key

Actionable Step: Begin applying the balayage to the back sections first, working your way to the front.

Example:

• V-Shape/W-Shape Application: Take a small, thin subsection of hair. Using your applicator brush, paint the bleach in a sweeping motion, creating a “V” or “W” shape. The bleach should be applied heavier at the ends and feathered upwards towards the mid-lengths, leaving some of the root untouched. This creates a soft blend.

• Saturation: Ensure the strands you are coloring are fully saturated with bleach for even lift. However, avoid oversaturating the hair close to the root to prevent bleeding.

• Placement: Vary the starting point of your balayage on different strands to create a natural, multi-dimensional look. Some highlights can start higher up, others lower down.

• No harsh lines: The goal is a seamless transition. Use the very tip of your brush to feather the product upwards for a soft blend.

Why it matters: The V-shape technique mimics how the sun naturally lightens hair, creating a soft, blended look. Working from back to front allows the back sections, which are typically darker and require more processing time, to develop longer.

4. Crafting the Money Piece: Brightening the Front

Actionable Step: Isolate the front sections of hair that frame your face for the money piece.

Example: Take a small, thin section (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick) from each side directly framing your face. You can take one or two such sections depending on how bold you want your money piece to be.

Why it matters: These specific sections are crucial for the brightening effect.

Actionable Step: Apply bleach to the money piece sections, starting closer to the root than the rest of your balayage.

Example:

• Closer to Root: Apply the bleach starting about 1/2 to 1 inch from your scalp, feathering it softly upwards to create a slight gradient.

• Full Saturation: Ensure these strands are fully saturated from the starting point down to the ends.

• Foil/Plastic Wrap: Once bleached, carefully place these sections on individual pieces of foil or plastic wrap to keep them isolated and allow for more intense lightening. Fold the foil around the bleached hair, ensuring it’s sealed.

Why it matters: The money piece needs to be brighter and more noticeable, so starting closer to the root and using foil helps achieve more significant lift.

5. Processing Time: Patience is a Virtue

Actionable Step: Monitor your hair’s lightening process diligently.

Example: Begin checking your hair every 5-10 minutes after application. Gently scrape a small amount of bleach off a strand with the back of your comb to see the underlying color.

Why it matters: Processing time varies greatly depending on your hair’s starting color, texture, and the strength of the developer. Over-processing can lead to severe damage, while under-processing will result in brassy or orange tones. Aim for a pale yellow shade, similar to the inside of a banana peel.

6. Rinsing and Neutralizing

Actionable Step: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water once the desired lift is achieved.

Example: Continue rinsing until all traces of bleach are gone. The water should run clear.

Why it matters: Leftover bleach can continue to process and cause damage. Cool water helps close the hair cuticles.

Actionable Step: Apply a generous amount of toner.

Example: If your hair has yellow tones, use a purple toner. If it has orange tones, use a blue toner. Apply the toner evenly to all bleached sections, ensuring full saturation. Follow the toner’s instructions for processing time, typically 5-20 minutes.

Why it matters: Bleach lifts color, but it often leaves unwanted warm tones (yellow, orange). Toner neutralizes these tones, creating a cooler, more desirable blonde shade.

7. Post-Bleach Treatment

Actionable Step: Immediately after rinsing the toner, apply a deep conditioning treatment or a bond-repairing product.

Example: Use a product specifically designed for chemically treated hair. Leave it on for 10-20 minutes or as directed, then rinse thoroughly.

Why it matters: Bleaching is a harsh process. This step replenishes moisture, helps repair broken bonds, and seals the cuticle, leaving your hair softer and healthier.

Post-Color Care: Maintaining Your Brightened Look

Proper aftercare is essential for extending the life of your balayage and keeping your hair healthy.

1. Gentle Washing

Actionable Step: Wait at least 48-72 hours before shampooing your hair after coloring. When you do wash, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner.

Example: Instead of washing daily, try every 2-3 days. When washing, gently massage the scalp and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

Why it matters: Sulfate-free products are gentler on colored hair and help prevent premature fading. Waiting to wash allows the hair cuticles to fully close and seal in the color.

2. Tone and Refresh

Actionable Step: Incorporate a purple or blue toning shampoo and conditioner into your routine 1-2 times a week.

Example: Use a toning shampoo once a week if you notice subtle yellowing. If brassiness is more prominent, use it twice a week, leaving it on for a few minutes before rinsing.

Why it matters: Toning products help maintain your desired cool tone by neutralizing any brassiness that may emerge over time due to environmental factors or product buildup.

3. Heat Styling Protection

Actionable Step: Minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when using hot tools.

Example: Air dry your hair whenever possible. If you must use a curling iron or straightener, apply a heat protectant product evenly through your hair before styling. Set your tools to the lowest effective temperature.

Why it matters: Heat can cause color to fade faster and lead to further damage on already processed hair. Heat protectants create a barrier that minimizes these effects.

4. Deep Conditioning and Hair Masks

Actionable Step: Continue using deep conditioning treatments or hair masks once a week or every other week.

Example: After shampooing, apply a hydrating mask from mid-lengths to ends, leaving it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing.

Why it matters: Bleached hair needs continuous moisture and nourishment to stay soft, shiny, and healthy.

5. Sun Protection

Actionable Step: Protect your hair from prolonged sun exposure, especially if you spend a lot of time outdoors.

Example: Wear a hat when in direct sunlight for extended periods. Consider using hair products with UV filters.

Why it matters: UV rays can cause hair color to fade and become brassy, and they can also dry out and damage your hair.

6. Professional Touch-Ups

Actionable Step: Plan for professional touch-ups every 3-6 months.

Example: If your balayage starts to look dull or your money piece loses its vibrancy, schedule an appointment with a stylist for a refresh.

Why it matters: While balayage is low-maintenance, it’s not no-maintenance. Professional touch-ups ensure your color stays fresh, vibrant, and perfectly blended. A stylist can also address any underlying issues like dryness or uneven tones.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best preparation, issues can arise. Here’s how to tackle them.

1. Hair Turned Orange/Too Brassy

Actionable Solution: Your hair likely didn’t lift enough, or you didn’t use enough toner, or the wrong type.

Concrete Example: If your hair is orange, you need to lift it further (if healthy enough to handle another bleach application) or apply a stronger blue-based toner. If it’s yellow, a purple toner is needed. If you’re unsure, consult a professional. Do NOT try to bleach again immediately if your hair feels compromised. Wait at least a few weeks and focus on intensive conditioning.

2. Uneven Color/Spotty Result

Actionable Solution: This usually indicates uneven application or insufficient saturation.

Concrete Example: If you have dark spots, you might not have applied enough bleach to those sections, or it wasn’t evenly spread. For minor patchiness, you can try spot-toning. For significant unevenness, it’s best to consult a professional to avoid further damage.

3. Hair Feels Dry or Brittle

Actionable Solution: This is a sign of damage or lack of moisture.

Concrete Example: Immediately after rinsing the bleach, apply a bond-repairing treatment (like Olaplex No. 3 or K18). For daily care, switch to intensely hydrating shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments. Avoid heat styling entirely for a few weeks and focus solely on deep conditioning.

4. Color Faded Too Quickly

Actionable Solution: Your hair might be too porous, or you’re not using color-safe products.

Concrete Example: Ensure you’re using sulfate-free, color-safe shampoos and conditioners. Incorporate a color-depositing conditioner (if applicable to your tone) or use your toning shampoo more frequently. Reduce washing frequency and use lukewarm water.

Conclusion

Achieving a beautiful balayage with a brightening money piece at home or confidently asking for it at the salon is entirely within reach. By meticulously following these practical steps, prioritizing hair health, and committing to proper aftercare, you can enjoy a stunning, sun-kissed look that enhances your features and radiates effortless style. This guide provides the actionable blueprint you need to transform your hair and brighten your front with confidence.