A Definitive Guide to Using Mascara to Open Up Your Eyes
Mascara is a magic wand in your makeup bag. A few swipes can transform your face, making you look more awake, alert, and vibrant. But are you using it to its full potential? The goal isn’t just to darken your lashes; it’s to strategically use mascara to create the illusion of bigger, more open eyes. This guide will walk you through the precise techniques, product selections, and application methods to achieve this effect, moving beyond simple application to a truly transformative lash strategy.
The Foundation: Preparing Your Lashes for Maximum Impact
Before you even touch a mascara wand, your lashes need to be prepped. This crucial step ensures that your mascara applies smoothly, lasts longer, and provides the maximum lift. Skipping this is like trying to paint a wall without primer—the results will be subpar.
1. The Eyelash Curler: Your Secret Weapon
An eyelash curler is non-negotiable. Curling your lashes upwards is the first, most fundamental step to opening up your eyes. It creates a natural, upward lift that makes your lashes appear longer and your eyes look wider.
- How to Do It:
- Start with clean, dry lashes.
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Position the curler at the very base of your lashes, close to the lash line, but be careful not to pinch your skin.
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Gently clamp down and hold for 5-10 seconds.
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“Walk” the curler out to the middle of your lashes and clamp again, holding for another 5 seconds.
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Finish by clamping at the tips of your lashes for a final curl.
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Pro Tip: For extra hold, you can gently heat the metal part of your eyelash curler with a hairdryer for a few seconds. Test the temperature on your wrist before using it on your eyes to ensure it’s not too hot.
2. The Primer: The Unsung Hero
Mascara primer is often overlooked, but it’s a game-changer. It coats each lash, creating a smooth, even base for your mascara to adhere to. This not only prevents clumping but also adds volume and length, making your mascara work harder for you.
- How to Do It:
- After curling, apply a single, thin coat of primer from root to tip.
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Wait about 30 seconds to a minute for it to become tacky before applying mascara.
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Pro Tip: Look for a primer with nourishing ingredients like vitamin E to condition your lashes, preventing breakage and promoting healthy growth.
Mastering Mascara Application: The Techniques That Matter
Applying mascara isn’t just about wiggling a brush through your lashes. It’s a strategic process with specific movements designed to lift, separate, and define. These techniques are the core of achieving the open-eyed effect.
1. The Wiggle-and-Lift Technique
This is the most fundamental and effective application method. It ensures every lash is coated from root to tip, providing maximum volume and length.
- How to Do It:
- Hold the wand horizontally and place it at the very base of your upper lashes.
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Wiggle the wand back and forth at the root for a few seconds. This deposits the most product where you need it most, creating a thick, full lash line.
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After wiggling, pull the wand straight up through the tips of your lashes in a slow, upward motion. This extends and separates them.
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Repeat this process for each section of your lashes, working your way from the inner corner to the outer corner.
2. The Horizontal and Vertical Application Duo
Using the wand in both horizontal and vertical orientations is key to a perfectly fanned-out, clump-free look.
- How to Do It:
- Use the horizontal wand for the bulk of the application, focusing on the wiggle-and-lift technique.
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Once you’ve applied a coat, hold the wand vertically and use just the tip to catch and separate individual lashes that may have clumped together. This is especially useful for the inner and outer corner lashes, which are often harder to reach.
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The vertical wand is also perfect for applying a delicate coat to your lower lashes.
3. The Inner and Outer Corner Strategy
This is where the magic truly happens. Strategically applying mascara to the inner and outer corners of your eyes can dramatically change their perceived shape and size.
- How to Do It:
- Inner Corners: Use the tip of the wand to apply mascara to the fine, short lashes in the inner corner. Brush them towards your nose. This creates the illusion of wider-set eyes and a more open, fanned-out look.
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Outer Corners: This is the most important step for the “cat eye” or “almond eye” effect. Angle the wand and brush these lashes outwards and upwards, towards your temples. This lifts the outer corner of your eye, creating a more elongated and lifted appearance.
The Right Tools for the Job: Choosing Your Mascara
Not all mascaras are created equal. The right formula and brush type can make all the difference in achieving your desired effect.
1. Volume vs. Length vs. Curl: Understanding the Formulas
- Volumizing Mascaras: These formulas are thicker and often contain waxes or polymers that coat each lash to make it appear thicker. They are perfect for creating a dense, full lash line.
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Lengthening Mascaras: These formulas are typically thinner and contain fibers that adhere to the tips of your lashes, extending their length.
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Curling Mascaras: These formulas have a bit more rigidity and are designed to hold a curl. They often have curved brushes to assist in the curling process.
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The Smart Choice: For opening up your eyes, a curling and volumizing formula is your best bet. The curl lifts, and the volume adds density, creating a powerful combination.
2. The Brush Shape: It’s All About the Bristles
- Hourglass Brush: The classic hourglass shape is designed to hug the natural curve of your eye, thickening lashes at the inner and outer corners while lengthening them in the middle. It’s a fantastic all-purpose brush.
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Tapered Brush: This brush is thicker at the base and gets thinner at the tip. It’s excellent for applying mascara to the hard-to-reach inner corner lashes and separating lashes to prevent clumping.
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Curved Brush: As the name suggests, this brush is shaped to fit the curve of your eye, making it ideal for lifting and curling lashes.
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Ball-Tip Brush: This unique brush has a small, spherical tip. It’s perfect for precision work, targeting tiny lower lashes or separating stubborn upper lashes.
The Finishing Touches: Making Your Mascara Last
The final steps are just as important as the first. A little bit of extra effort at the end ensures your hard work doesn’t go to waste.
1. The Second Coat: Strategic Layering
Applying a second coat can amplify the effect, but it must be done correctly to avoid a clumpy mess.
- How to Do It:
- Wait about 30 seconds to a minute after the first coat to allow it to dry slightly, but not completely.
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Apply the second coat with the same wiggle-and-lift technique, focusing on the tips of the lashes for added length and a fanned-out look.
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Be careful not to overdo it. Two coats are usually sufficient.
2. The Lower Lashes: A Delicate Touch
Applying mascara to your lower lashes can make a huge difference in opening up your eyes, but it needs to be done with a light hand to avoid a spidery, overdone look.
- How to Do It:
- Use a very light amount of mascara. Wipe any excess product off the wand onto a tissue.
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Hold the wand vertically and gently tap the tips of your lower lashes.
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For an extra-delicate application, use a separate, clean spoolie brush to comb through the lower lashes after a light coat.
Troubleshooting Common Mascara Mistakes
Even with the best techniques, things can go wrong. Knowing how to fix common mistakes is key to a flawless finish.
- Clumping: If your lashes are clumping, use a clean spoolie brush to comb through them while the mascara is still wet. This separates them and removes excess product.
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Smudging: Smudging can happen for a variety of reasons, including oily eyelids or using a non-waterproof formula. To prevent this, consider using a waterproof or water-resistant mascara, and if your eyelids are particularly oily, dust a little translucent powder under your eyes before applying mascara.
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Flaking: If your mascara is flaking, it’s likely an old formula that has dried out. Mascara has a short shelf life—usually about three months—so it’s important to replace it regularly.
The Power of Combination: Mascara and Eyeliner
For an even more dramatic eye-opening effect, pair your mascara technique with a smart eyeliner strategy.
- Tightlining: Apply a waterproof eyeliner to your upper waterline. This fills in the gaps between your lashes, making them appear thicker and fuller right at the root. It creates a dense, dark lash line without the harshness of a thick line on your eyelid.
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Nude Eyeliner: Applying a nude or white eyeliner to your lower waterline makes the whites of your eyes appear brighter and larger, instantly creating an open, awake look.
Conclusion: A Final Word on Your Lash Journey
Using mascara to open up your eyes is a skill that combines the right tools, smart techniques, and a bit of practice. It’s not about slathering on product; it’s about strategic application. By starting with a good base (curling and priming), mastering the wiggle-and-lift technique, and choosing a formula and brush that serve your purpose, you can unlock the full potential of your lashes. The result is a brighter, more vibrant, and undeniably more open-eyed look that transforms your entire face.