How to Fix a Failed Lash Lift: Expert Solutions for Common Problems

by

I can help with that! Here is a comprehensive guide on how to fix a failed lash lift.

Lash Lift Gone Wrong? Your Definitive Guide to Fixing It

A perfectly executed lash lift can open up your eyes and create a beautiful, wide-awake look that lasts for weeks. But what happens when things don’t go as planned? A failed lash lift can be disheartening, leaving you with over-curled, frizzy, or tangled lashes. The good news is, a lash lift gone wrong isn’t the end of the world. With the right techniques and a little patience, you can correct most common problems and restore your lashes to their former glory.

This guide is your go-to resource for fixing a botched lash lift. We’ll skip the long-winded explanations and dive straight into practical, actionable solutions for every common issue you might face. From over-curled lashes to uneven results, we’ll walk you through the steps to get your lashes back on track.

Understanding the ‘Why’: Common Causes of a Failed Lash Lift

Before we get to the fixes, it’s helpful to understand what might have gone wrong. A lash lift is a chemical process, and like any chemical treatment, it’s highly dependent on proper application and timing. The main culprits behind a failed lash lift include:

  • Incorrect Perming Solution Timing: Leaving the lifting solution on for too long can over-process the lashes, leading to a frizzy or “S”-shaped curl. Not leaving it on long enough results in a weak or non-existent lift.

  • Improper Shield Selection: Using a shield that is too small for your natural lash length can cause the lashes to curl back onto themselves, resulting in an overly dramatic, unnatural curl.

  • Poor Lash Isolation and Placement: If lashes are not meticulously separated and laid straight on the shield, they can become crisscrossed, tangled, or curled in different directions.

  • Post-Treatment Care Negligence: Exposing lashes to water, steam, or oil-based products within the first 24-48 hours can disrupt the setting process and cause the lift to fall or become uneven.

Now that we know the potential causes, let’s get to the solutions.

Expert Solution 1: The Case of Over-Curled or Frizzy Lashes

This is one of the most common and distressing problems. Your lashes are either curled so tightly they touch your eyelid, or they look frizzy and crimped.

The Fix: The “Relax and Redo” Method

This technique involves using a gentle straightening process to relax the over-curled lashes. This is a delicate procedure, so follow these steps carefully.

Step-by-Step Action Plan:

  1. Preparation is Key: Gather your supplies. You’ll need a very mild lash perming solution (some brands sell a “reversal” or “relaxing” solution specifically for this), a lash lift adhesive, and a few small cotton swabs or micro-brushes. Crucially, do not use the same strength perming solution you used for the initial lift. A gentle, lower-strength solution is essential.

  2. Cleanse Your Lashes: Use a non-oil-based cleanser to gently clean your lashes and the surrounding eye area. This removes any residue and prepares the lashes for the treatment. Pat them dry completely.

  3. Apply a Small Amount of Adhesive: Using a clean micro-brush, apply a tiny amount of lash lift adhesive to the base of your lashes. The goal here isn’t to re-curl them, but to help hold them straight during the process.

  4. Straighten the Lashes: Using a clean lash brush or a wooden stick, gently brush the lashes upward and outward, separating any tangled or crisscrossed hairs. The goal is to lay them as straight as possible.

  5. Apply the Relaxing Solution: Dip a clean micro-brush into your gentle relaxing solution. Apply the solution ONLY to the most over-curled part of the lash shaft. For example, if the very tips are crimped, apply it there. If the whole lash is curled too tightly, apply it from the base up to the midpoint. Avoid applying it to the very tips or the skin. The goal is controlled application.

  6. Monitor the Time Carefully: This is the most critical step. The timing for relaxing a lash lift is much shorter than the initial lift. Start with a very short time, such as 1-2 minutes. Use a timer. After 1-2 minutes, use a dry cotton swab to gently wipe a few lashes to see if the curl has relaxed. If not, reapply and check again in 30-60 second increments. Do not exceed 5 minutes for this process.

  7. Remove the Solution: Once the lashes have relaxed to a more natural curl, use a dry cotton swab to remove all traces of the relaxing solution. Immediately follow with a neutralizing solution (if your kit includes one). Apply the neutralizer with a new micro-brush, again focusing on the lash shaft. Leave it on for half the time of the relaxing solution.

  8. Final Cleanse: Gently cleanse your lashes with a non-oil-based cleanser to remove any residual chemicals. Your lashes should now be relaxed and look much more natural.

Concrete Example: Sarah had a lash lift where her lashes were curled so much they were touching her upper eyelid. She used a gentle lash relaxer and applied it to the middle and upper half of her lashes. She checked after 2 minutes and saw the curl had relaxed. She immediately removed the solution and applied a neutralizer for 1 minute before a final cleanse. Her lashes were now a beautiful, natural curl.

Expert Solution 2: The Issue of Uneven or Insufficient Curl

Maybe one eye looks great, but the other has barely lifted. Or perhaps the inner corners didn’t lift at all. This is often caused by poor placement of the lashes on the shield or uneven application of the lifting solution.

The Fix: The “Targeted Re-Lift” Technique

Instead of re-doing the entire lift, you can target the specific areas that need more attention. This minimizes chemical exposure and helps achieve a uniform result.

Step-by-Step Action Plan:

  1. Assess the Problem: Identify the exact areas that need a re-lift. Is it the outer corner, the inner corner, or a few stray lashes in the middle?

  2. Isolate the Section: Using a micro-brush and a tiny amount of adhesive, carefully place a small, appropriate-sized shield (or even just a piece of a larger shield) under the lashes that need to be re-lifted. Only secure the lashes that need attention. Use lash tape to cover the lashes that already have a good curl. This protects them from the chemicals.

  3. Apply the Lifting Solution Strategically: Using a fine micro-brush, apply the lifting solution only to the lashes that are taped to the shield. Do not apply it to the base of the lash; apply it from the midpoint to the tip. This helps prevent over-processing.

  4. Time it Shorter: Since the lashes have already been processed once, you need a much shorter processing time. Start with 2-3 minutes. Check the progress with a cotton swab. The lashes should begin to take a curl. If not, re-apply and check again in 1-minute increments. Do not exceed 5 minutes.

  5. Neutralize and Cleanse: Once the desired lift is achieved, remove the lifting solution with a dry cotton swab. Immediately apply the neutralizing solution for half the processing time of the lifting solution (e.g., 1-2 minutes). Gently cleanse the entire eye area to remove all chemicals.

Concrete Example: Jennifer’s lash lift was perfect on her left eye, but her right eye’s outer corner lashes were almost straight. She taped off the good lashes on the right eye, placed a small shield under the straight ones, and applied the lifting solution for 3 minutes. After neutralizing and cleaning, her right eye now matched her left, with a beautiful, consistent lift across the entire lash line.

Expert Solution 3: The Problem of Crisscrossed, Tangled, or Messy Lashes

This issue is often a result of poor lash isolation during the initial lift. The lashes were not laid straight and separate on the shield, and they set in a messy pattern.

The Fix: The “Gentle Untangling” Method

This fix is similar to the over-curled solution but focuses on straightening and separating the lashes rather than just relaxing the curl.

Step-by-Step Action Plan:

  1. The Role of a Nourishing Oil: The first step is to use an oil-based lash serum or a very small amount of a natural oil like castor or argan oil. This is one of the few times you will use oil-based products in the days following a lift, as the goal is to soften the keratin bonds.

  2. Apply the Oil: Use a clean spoolie brush to apply a very light coat of the oil to your lashes. Be sure not to saturate them. The goal is to make the lashes more pliable.

  3. Gentle Brushing: With the spoolie, gently and repeatedly brush your lashes from the base to the tips. The oil will help them untangle and separate. Take your time and be very patient. Focus on brushing them straight and upward.

  4. The “Lash Bath” Technique: After a few days of this oil treatment, if the lashes are still not separated, you can use a lash lift reversal solution. Follow the same steps as the “relax and redo” method, but be very strategic with your application.

    • Place a shield under the lashes.

    • Apply a small amount of adhesive to hold the lashes straight on the shield, separating and combing each one meticulously with a micro-brush.

    • Apply the gentle relaxing solution to the most tangled areas for a very short time (1-2 minutes).

    • Once they are straight, remove the solution and apply the neutralizer for a very short time.

    • Cleanse thoroughly.

Concrete Example: Mark had a lift where his lashes were all crisscrossed. He used a castor oil serum nightly and gently brushed his lashes. After three days, they were much more separated. For the remaining tangled areas, he used a gentle relaxer for 90 seconds, followed by a neutralizer, and now his lashes are beautifully separated.

Expert Solution 4: The ‘Non-Existent Lift’ Problem

You’ve waited 24-48 hours, and your lashes are still straight. This is a clear case of an insufficient lift, usually due to a weak solution, not enough processing time, or a solution that wasn’t fresh.

The Fix: The “Gentle Re-Lift” Method

This is the most straightforward fix. Since the lashes are under-processed, you can simply re-do the lift with a shorter processing time.

Step-by-Step Action Plan:

  1. Wait a Few Days: It’s best to wait at least 3-5 days after the initial failed lift before attempting a re-lift. This allows your lashes to recover slightly.

  2. Check Your Supplies: Ensure your lifting solution is fresh and hasn’t been exposed to air. If you’re unsure, it’s best to use a new sachet.

  3. Perform a Regular Lash Lift: Follow the standard steps of a lash lift. Use the correct shield size for your lashes. Carefully place and isolate each lash on the shield.

  4. Shorten the Processing Time: Since the lashes have already been slightly processed, you will need a shorter processing time. Instead of the full 10-12 minutes, aim for 5-7 minutes. Check the curl after 5 minutes and see if it’s where you want it to be.

  5. Neutralize and Condition: After the shortened lifting time, remove the lifting solution and apply the neutralizing solution for the recommended time (usually the same as the lifting solution, or slightly longer). Finish with a nourishing lash conditioner.

Concrete Example: Emily’s lashes had no lift after her treatment. She waited four days and then re-did the lift, this time using a fresh lifting solution for 6 minutes instead of the recommended 10. The result was a perfect, long-lasting curl.

Essential Post-Fix Aftercare

You’ve successfully corrected your botched lash lift. Now what? Proper aftercare is more important than ever to ensure the longevity of your new, improved lift and to keep your lashes healthy.

  • Avoid Water and Steam: For the first 24-48 hours after the fix, keep your lashes completely dry. This means no showers, no saunas, and no crying. Water can disrupt the setting process and ruin your hard work.

  • Say No to Mascara (for a few days): Avoid waterproof mascara or any mascara that is difficult to remove. When you do use mascara, opt for a non-waterproof, gentle formula.

  • Limit Oil-Based Products: Oil can break down the lash lift solution. Avoid oil-based cleansers, eye creams, and makeup removers.

  • Daily Conditioning: Use a lash serum or a nourishing oil (like castor oil) every night. This helps to hydrate and strengthen your lashes, which are now more vulnerable after two chemical processes. Apply it to the lash line with a clean finger or a micro-brush.

  • Gentle Cleansing: When you cleanse your face, be gentle around the eye area. Use a non-oil-based foaming cleanser and pat your eyes dry with a clean towel. Avoid rubbing or pulling on your lashes.

  • Sleep on Your Back: Sleeping with your face pressed into a pillow can crush your lashes and make them lose their curl. If you are a side sleeper, consider a silk pillowcase to reduce friction.

The Golden Rule: When to Seek Professional Help

While these at-home solutions are highly effective, there are times when it’s best to step back and seek a professional.

  • Severe Chemical Burn or Redness: If you experience any severe irritation, redness, or a chemical burn on your eyelid, do not attempt to fix the lift yourself. Seek medical attention immediately.

  • Extreme Damage: If your lashes are brittle, falling out, or severely damaged, stop all at-home treatments. Applying more chemicals will only worsen the problem. A professional may be able to offer a deeply nourishing keratin treatment or advise you on the best course of action.

  • Lack of Confidence: If you’re not confident in your ability to perform these delicate steps, it’s always safer to find a certified and reputable lash technician. Explain the situation and they can often perform a gentle reversal or re-lift in a controlled environment.

Conclusion: Patience, Precision, and the Power of a Plan

A failed lash lift can be a frustrating experience, but it doesn’t have to be a permanent one. By understanding the common problems and applying these targeted, expert solutions, you can successfully correct the issue and achieve the beautiful, lifted lashes you were hoping for. The key is to be patient, precise, and to follow each step carefully. With the right approach and a little TLC, your lashes will be back to looking their best in no time.