How to Understand the Environmental Impact of Viscose

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A Practical Guide to Understanding the Environmental Impact of Viscose in Fashion

Viscose is a paradox. It’s a versatile, widely used fabric that feels soft and drapes beautifully, making it a staple of the modern wardrobe. Brands often market it as a “natural” or “eco-friendly” alternative to synthetics because it’s derived from wood pulp. But this simple description hides a complex and often troubling reality. The journey from a tree in a forest to a finished garment on a rack is fraught with environmental and social challenges.

For the savvy, conscious consumer, this presents a problem. How do you, with a garment in hand or an online product description on screen, discern if that viscose piece is a responsible choice or a contributor to deforestation and pollution? This guide is designed to cut through the greenwashing and provide you with a definitive, step-by-step framework for evaluating the true environmental impact of viscose. This isn’t a long-winded lecture on what viscose is, but rather a practical manual on how to critically assess it, complete with clear, actionable steps and concrete examples.

1. Trace the Wood Pulp: The Forest-to-Fiber Link

The environmental story of viscose begins long before it’s a fiber. It starts with the source of the cellulose: trees. Not all wood pulp is created equal, and the origin of this raw material is the first and most critical point of investigation.

How to Do It: Your primary mission is to determine if the wood pulp comes from sustainably managed forests or from ancient and endangered ones.

  • Look for Certifications: The most direct way to verify sustainable sourcing is to look for third-party certifications. The two most prominent and credible are the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC).

  • Actionable Example: When you’re on a brand’s website, navigate to their “Sustainability” or “Materials” page. Read their mission statements and product descriptions. A brand that uses responsibly sourced viscose will proudly and explicitly state it. Look for phrases like “FSC-certified viscose,” “PEFC-certified wood pulp,” or “sourced from certified renewable forests.” If a brand simply says “made from wood pulp” or “natural cellulose,” that’s a red flag. A responsible brand has done the work to verify its supply chain and will be eager to communicate it. For instance, a brand might state, “Our viscose is made from wood pulp sourced exclusively from FSC-certified forests, ensuring it doesn’t contribute to deforestation.” This is a clear, verifiable claim.

  • Investigate Their Partners: Many brands work with organizations that track the supply of man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCFs), which includes viscose. An organization like Canopy, which publishes an annual “Hot Button Report,” tracks the performance of over 400 viscose producers on forest conservation.

  • Actionable Example: A brand’s sustainability report might state, “We are a partner of Canopy and are committed to sourcing our viscose exclusively from suppliers that have a ‘green shirt’ rating on their Hot Button Report.” This is a powerful, transparent statement. It’s a specific claim that can be verified with a quick search of Canopy’s public data, allowing you to cross-reference the brand’s commitment. In contrast, a brand that makes a vague claim like “our suppliers follow best practices” is not providing the same level of transparency.

2. Scrutinize the Production Process: The Chemical Footprint

The transformation of wood pulp into a soft textile is a chemical-intensive process. The method used—specifically, whether it’s an “open-loop” or “closed-loop” system—is the next major indicator of environmental impact.

How to Do It: You need to determine if the factory producing the viscose reuses its chemicals and water or if it discharges them into the environment.

  • Understand the Difference:
    • Open-Loop (Conventional) Viscose: This is the traditional, cheaper method. It relies on a “toxic cocktail” of chemicals, most notably carbon disulfide, to dissolve the wood pulp. In an open-loop system, these chemicals are not captured and reused. The wastewater, often containing a mix of chemicals and heavy metals, is frequently discharged directly into local waterways, causing severe pollution and harming both ecosystems and human health. This process is energy and water-intensive, and is the primary reason conventional viscose has such a negative reputation.

    • Closed-Loop Viscose: This is a more modern and responsible approach. It uses different, less-toxic solvents (or recovers the traditional ones) and is designed to capture and reuse up to 99% of the water and chemicals used in the process. The solvents are recycled back into the system, creating a circular model that drastically reduces pollution and resource consumption.

  • What to Look For:

    • Fiber Name on the Label: This is a crucial, practical step. Brands that use closed-loop systems almost always use specific, branded fibers and will feature them prominently on the garment’s tag or product description. Look for TENCEL™ Lyocell, LENZING™ ECOVERO™, or Modal. The name itself is the giveaway. These are not just brand names; they are fibers produced using advanced, closed-loop technologies. If the label simply says “100% Viscose,” “Rayon,” or “Bamboo Viscose,” it’s a strong indication that it was produced using the less sustainable, open-loop method.

    • Actionable Example: Pick up two blouses at a store. The first label reads “100% Viscose.” The second reads “90% LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose.” The second blouse is a demonstrably better choice. The brand has used a specific, certified fiber that guarantees a closed-loop production process with documented reductions in emissions and water use. They are transparent about it by naming the fiber. The first brand is not providing that information, and you should assume the worst.

3. Analyze Water and Energy Consumption: A Resource-Intensive Process

Viscose production is a thirsty and power-hungry business. Even with certified wood pulp and a closed-loop system, it’s not a zero-impact process. The best brands are transparent about their efforts to minimize resource use.

How to Do It: Go beyond the general claims and look for specific metrics and certifications related to water and energy.

  • Search for Specific Data: A brand’s sustainability report should not just say they “use less water.” It should provide hard data. Look for claims like “uses 50% less water and emits 50% fewer greenhouse gases compared to conventional viscose.” This is a measurable claim you can compare against industry standards.

  • Look for Water and Chemical Certifications: Brands that are serious about their environmental footprint will have certifications for their entire manufacturing process, not just their raw materials. The Bluesign® certification is a gold standard in this regard. A product with the Bluesign® seal means it was produced with a focus on resource efficiency, using only safe chemicals, and with a commitment to water and air pollution control.

  • Actionable Example: On an online product page for a new dress, the description reads, “Our viscose is sourced responsibly and the final garment is Bluesign® certified.” This immediately tells you that the entire production chain—from the chemicals used to the water and energy consumption—has been independently audited and meets a high standard. This is a much more valuable claim than a generic statement about sustainability.

4. The End-of-Life Question: Circularity and Biodegradability

Viscose is a cellulosic fiber, which means it’s technically biodegradable. However, this fact is often used to mask a more complicated reality. A garment’s end-of-life is a critical part of its environmental story.

How to Do It: Don’t take “biodegradable” at face value. Evaluate the garment’s composition and the brand’s policies on circularity.

  • Check the Fabric Composition: A 100% viscose garment is far more likely to biodegrade than a viscose blend. Many fast-fashion items are a mix of viscose and polyester or spandex. Polyester is a plastic-based fiber that will never biodegrade. When you blend these fibers, you create a new material that cannot be easily composted or recycled, rendering the viscose’s inherent biodegradability moot.

  • Actionable Example: You are considering buying two t-shirts. The first is “100% LENZING™ Lyocell.” The second is “95% Viscose, 5% Spandex.” The first is an excellent choice for biodegradability and end-of-life. The second, despite having a majority of viscose, will never fully break down due to the presence of synthetic spandex. You should make your purchasing decision accordingly, knowing that the second garment will live on indefinitely.

  • Investigate Take-Back Programs and Recycling: Some brands are beginning to address the end-of-life problem by offering take-back programs. These programs allow you to return old, worn-out garments to be recycled into new fibers. This is the ultimate “closed-loop” model, extending the life of the material and preventing it from ever reaching a landfill.

  • Actionable Example: A brand’s website has a page dedicated to its recycling program. It provides clear instructions on how to mail in your old garments and outlines what the returned textiles are used for—perhaps to be processed and spun into new yarns. This shows a commitment to a circular economy, not just a one-time sale. If a brand offers no such program and makes no mention of what to do with the garment when it’s no longer useful, the default assumption is that it will end up in a landfill.

5. Ask the Right Questions: A Toolkit for Consumer Engagement

The best way to get clear answers is to ask direct, specific questions. Don’t rely solely on what a brand chooses to put on their website; be proactive in your investigation.

How to Do It: Use the information you’ve gathered to formulate pointed questions that demand specific answers.

  • Question Toolkit: Use these questions when contacting a brand’s customer service or when Browse their materials pages:
    • “Is the wood pulp used for your viscose sourced from FSC or PEFC-certified forests?”

    • “Do you use a closed-loop production system for your viscose, and if so, what is the recovery rate of chemicals and water?”

    • “What third-party certifications (like Bluesign or OEKO-TEX) do your viscose suppliers have?”

    • “Where are your viscose garments manufactured, and what are your auditing processes for those factories?”

    • “What is your policy on end-of-life for your viscose products? Do you have a recycling or take-back program?”

  • Actionable Example: You’ve found a beautiful scarf online, and the product page says “100% Viscose.” You send a message to their support team with the questions from the toolkit. An unhelpful response might be, “Our products are made with sustainable values in mind.” A truly transparent and responsible brand will provide detailed answers, such as, “Our viscose is TENCEL™ branded, and the wood pulp is sourced from sustainably managed European beech trees. The production process is closed-loop, with a 99.8% recovery rate of the organic solvent. The factory is also Bluesign® certified, and we conduct bi-annual audits.” The quality of the response is a direct reflection of the brand’s commitment and transparency.

Conclusion

Understanding the environmental impact of viscose is not about having a PhD in textile science; it’s about asking the right questions and knowing what to look for. By following this practical guide, you can move from a state of passive acceptance to one of active, informed decision-making. You will be able to distinguish between a truly responsible garment and one that uses “viscose” as a deceptive marketing buzzword. The power to drive change in the fashion industry lies in your ability to be a discerning consumer. Each time you read a label, investigate a brand’s claims, or ask a direct question, you are casting a vote for a more transparent, less polluting future for fashion. The story of a viscose garment is written long before it reaches you, and by knowing how to read its chapters, you can ensure your wardrobe is part of a better narrative.