How to Knit a Fashionable Skirt: A Unique Wardrobe Addition

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The allure of a hand-knitted garment lies in its unique character and the pride of creation. While sweaters and scarves often dominate the knitting world, a knitted skirt offers a distinctive and stylish addition to any wardrobe. This guide will take you through the entire process, from selecting the perfect yarn to finishing a stunning, wearable skirt. We’ll focus on practical techniques and actionable steps, ensuring that even intermediate knitters can achieve professional-looking results.

Choosing Your Skirt Style and Yarn

The foundation of a successful project is a well-considered plan. Your skirt’s style dictates the yarn you choose, the stitch patterns you use, and the construction method. Consider these popular skirt silhouettes and their corresponding yarn recommendations.

A-Line Skirt

The A-line skirt, a timeless classic, flares gently from the waist, creating a flattering silhouette for most body types. It’s a great choice for a first-time skirt knitter.

  • Yarn Selection: You need a yarn with good drape and stitch definition. Avoid overly fuzzy or thick yarns, which can make the skirt look bulky. A sport-weight or DK-weight yarn in a wool-cotton blend or a pure merino wool is ideal. The wool provides elasticity and warmth, while the cotton adds structure and breathability. A recommended choice would be a superwash merino wool, as it’s easy to care for.

  • Stitch Patterns: Stockinette stitch is a great choice for its simplicity and drape. However, to add visual interest, consider a subtle cable or lace pattern. A simple 1×1 ribbing at the waist will provide a secure, comfortable fit.

Pencil Skirt

A sleek, form-fitting pencil skirt exudes sophistication. This style requires a yarn with excellent memory and stretch to maintain its shape.

  • Yarn Selection: The key here is elasticity. A yarn with a high percentage of merino wool, alpaca, or a synthetic blend with nylon or spandex is crucial. A fingering or sport-weight yarn is best, as a thicker yarn can create too much bulk and lose the form-fitting nature of the skirt. Look for yarns labeled “sock yarn” as they are specifically designed for stretch and durability.

  • Stitch Patterns: Ribbing is your best friend for a pencil skirt. A 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) provides significant stretch and a structured look. You can also incorporate a seed stitch or a small all-over texture pattern to prevent the fabric from curling, which is a common issue with stockinette in the round.

Flared or Circle Skirt

A flared or circle skirt is a statement piece, full of movement and drama. This style requires a lightweight yarn and a significant amount of knitting.

  • Yarn Selection: The goal is to create a fabric that drapes beautifully without being heavy. A lace-weight or fingering-weight yarn in a fiber like silk, bamboo, or a lightweight merino wool is perfect. These fibers will create a fluid, elegant fabric. A yarn with a slight sheen will enhance the dramatic flair.

  • Stitch Patterns: Simple stockinette stitch is effective for showing off the drape of the yarn. You can also incorporate an intricate lace pattern that radiates from the waist down, creating a stunning visual effect. This is a more advanced project, but the result is a showstopper.

Essential Techniques and Swatching

Before casting on for the full skirt, you must master the fundamental techniques and, most importantly, create a gauge swatch. Skipping this step is the most common reason for project failure.

Gauge Swatching: Your Non-Negotiable First Step

A gauge swatch is a small sample of your knitting in the chosen stitch pattern. It determines how many stitches and rows you knit per inch (or centimeter). Your pattern will specify a target gauge, and you must match it.

  1. Cast On: Use the recommended needle size and yarn to cast on about 20-30 stitches.

  2. Knit: Work in your chosen stitch pattern (e.g., stockinette or ribbing) for at least 4-5 inches. This creates a large enough sample to measure accurately.

  3. Block: This is crucial. Blocking is the process of wetting and shaping your swatch. It relaxes the fibers and shows you the true drape and size of your finished fabric.

  4. Measure: After the swatch is dry, lay it flat. Place a ruler on the swatch and count the number of stitches in 4 inches. Then count the number of rows in 4 inches.

  5. Adjust: If you have more stitches per inch than the pattern calls for, your knitting is too tight. Go up a needle size. If you have fewer stitches per inch, your knitting is too loose. Go down a needle size. Repeat this process until you match the gauge.

Knitting in the Round: A Must for Skirts

Most knitted skirts are worked in the round, a seamless method that eliminates the need for side seams. This creates a much more comfortable and professional-looking garment.

  1. Circular Needles: You will need circular needles. The cable length should be shorter than the circumference of your skirt at the waist.

  2. Joining: After casting on, place a stitch marker on your right needle. Gently join the first and last stitches to form a circle. Be careful not to twist the stitches.

  3. Knitting: Knit every round for stockinette stitch. For other patterns, follow the instructions for each round. The stitch marker indicates the beginning of the round.

Increasing and Decreasing

  • Increases: Skirts often require increases to create the desired flare. The M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) are invisible increases that don’t leave a hole.

    • M1L: Insert the left needle from front to back under the bar between the last stitch and the next stitch. Knit into the back of this loop.

    • M1R: Insert the left needle from back to front under the bar between the last stitch and the next stitch. Knit into the front of this loop.

  • Decreases: Decreases are used for shaping, especially for a pencil skirt or for a fitted waistband.

    • K2tog (Knit two together): Knit two stitches together as one. This creates a right-leaning decrease.

    • SSK (Slip, slip, knit): Slip the first stitch knit-wise, slip the next stitch knit-wise, then insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together. This creates a left-leaning decrease.

Construction: The Step-by-Step Guide

This section outlines the construction of a basic A-line skirt, which can be adapted for other styles. We’ll start from the waist and work our way down.

Step 1: The Waistband

The waistband is a critical component for a comfortable and secure fit. It should have enough stretch to get over your hips but be snug enough to stay in place.

  • Cast On: Use a stretchy cast-on method like the long-tail cast-on. Cast on the number of stitches determined by your gauge swatch and waist measurement. For example, if your waist is 30 inches and your gauge is 5 stitches per inch, you’ll cast on 150 stitches (30 x 5).

  • Waistband Ribbing: Knit in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 2-3 inches. This ribbing provides the necessary stretch and structure.

  • Optional: Elastic Casing: For a more secure fit, you can create a channel for a piece of elastic. Knit a purl ridge (knit one round, purl one round) at the top, then continue in stockinette stitch for the desired height of your waistband. Finally, fold the waistband to the inside and sew it down, leaving a small opening to insert the elastic.

Step 2: Body Shaping and Increases

This is where the A-line shape is created. The increases will be spaced evenly around the skirt to ensure a gradual, even flare.

  1. Establish Increase Rounds: After the waistband, switch to your main stitch pattern. Plan your increases. For a gradual A-line, you might increase a certain number of stitches every 10-15 rounds.

  2. Calculate Increases: Decide on the final circumference of your skirt at the hips. Measure your hips at their widest point. Let’s say your hip measurement is 40 inches. With a gauge of 5 stitches per inch, you need 200 stitches at the hips. If you started with 150 stitches, you need to increase 50 stitches.

  3. Distribute Increases: Distribute these increases over a specific number of rounds. For example, if your waist-to-hip length is 8 inches, and your gauge is 7 rows per inch, you have 56 rows (8 x 7) to work with. You could increase 10 stitches every 10 rounds, for a total of 5 increases. That would give you 50 new stitches (10 stitches x 5 increase rounds).

  4. Mark Your Increase Points: Place stitch markers evenly around the skirt to mark where you will make your increases. For 10 increases, place a marker every 15 stitches (150 stitches / 10 markers).

  5. Perform Increases: In your designated increase rounds, knit to a stitch marker, then M1L or M1R (or a more decorative increase if you prefer), then slip the marker and continue.

Step 3: Straight Body

Once you’ve reached your hip measurement, you can stop increasing and knit straight down to the desired length.

  • Knit Evenly: Continue knitting in your main stitch pattern without any increases or decreases.

  • Try It On: A major advantage of knitting in the round is that you can try on your skirt as you go. This allows you to check the fit and length. Use a scrap yarn to temporarily hold the stitches if you need to take it off the needles.

  • Length Check: Keep knitting until the skirt is about 1-2 inches shorter than your desired final length. The final step of binding off will add a little length, and blocking will also slightly stretch the fabric.

Step 4: Finishing the Hem

The hem is the final detail that gives your skirt a polished look.

  • Ribbed Hem: A simple ribbed hem (2×2 or 1×1) for 1-2 inches will prevent the fabric from curling and provide a clean finish.

  • I-Cord Hem: An I-cord bind-off creates a beautiful, rounded edge. This technique is especially effective for a flared skirt, as it adds weight and structure to the hem.

  • Simple Bind-Off: A standard knit bind-off is also a valid option, but be careful not to make it too tight, as this can cause the hem to pucker. A stretchy bind-off is always a good idea.

Step 5: Blocking

Blocking is the final, transformative step. It evens out your stitches, sets the final shape of the skirt, and enhances the drape of the fabric.

  1. Wet Block: Submerge your finished skirt in lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash. Let it soak for 20-30 minutes.

  2. Remove Excess Water: Gently squeeze the water out, but do not wring it. Roll the skirt in a clean towel and press firmly to absorb more moisture.

  3. Shape: Lay the skirt flat on a clean surface or a blocking mat. Gently stretch it to the desired dimensions, paying special attention to the waistband and hem. Use T-pins to hold it in place.

  4. Dry: Allow the skirt to dry completely. This can take anywhere from 12-48 hours, depending on the yarn and humidity.

Advanced Techniques and Customization

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can elevate your knitted skirt with more intricate details and techniques.

Using Short Rows for Asymmetry or Shaping

Short rows are a technique used to add extra length to a section of your knitting without affecting the entire row. They can be used to create a high-low hemline or to shape the back of a skirt for a more customized fit.

  • German Short Rows: A popular and relatively simple short row technique.
    1. Knit to the turning point.

    2. Turn your work.

    3. Bring the yarn to the front, then slip the next stitch purl-wise.

    4. Pull the yarn over the needle to the back, creating a “double stitch.” This closes the gap.

    5. Continue knitting in the opposite direction.

    6. When you encounter the double stitch on the next pass, knit or purl it as a single stitch.

Incorporating Colorwork

Colorwork adds a vibrant, personal touch to your skirt. Stranded colorwork (Fair Isle) or intarsia can create stunning motifs.

  • Fair Isle: Perfect for geometric or repeated patterns. Work with two or more colors in each round, carrying the unused yarn (the “floats”) across the back of the work. Be careful to maintain an even tension to avoid puckering.

  • Intarsia: Used for large blocks of color. Each color block has its own ball of yarn, and you twist the yarns together at each color change to prevent holes. Intarsia is more commonly done flat, but it can be adapted for knitting in the round.

Creating a Decorative Edging

Beyond a simple rib or I-cord, you can add a decorative lace border or a picot edging for a special touch.

  • Picot Edging: A delicate, scalloped edge. You can create this by casting on a small number of stitches, binding off the same number, and repeating this process along the hem.

  • Lace Border: Knit a separate lace border and then sew it to the bottom of the skirt, or work the lace pattern directly into the hem.

Final Thoughts on Your Knitted Skirt

A hand-knitted skirt is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s a testament to your skill and creativity. By carefully planning your project, meticulously swatching, and following these detailed steps, you can create a beautiful, durable, and fashionable skirt that will be a unique and cherished part of your wardrobe. The process is rewarding, and the result is a garment that fits you perfectly and reflects your personal style.