How to Fold a Pocket Square for a Creative Look

by

Beyond the Basics: The Definitive Guide to Creative Pocket Square Folds

A pocket square is more than a piece of fabric; it’s a statement. While the classic folds—the Presidential and the Puff—have their place, true style lies in the details that set you apart. This guide is for the man who sees his jacket’s breast pocket not as an afterthought, but as a canvas for creative expression. We’re moving past the conventional and diving deep into the art of the distinctive, memorable pocket square fold. Forget generic advice and long-winded history lessons. This is a practical, step-by-step manual designed to transform your style, one fold at a time.

The Foundation: Preparing Your Pocket Square

Before we explore the folds themselves, let’s ensure you have the right tools. The fabric and size of your pocket square will dramatically impact the final look.

  • Fabric Matters: Silk offers a luxurious drape and shine, perfect for fluid, soft folds like the Puff. Linen and cotton provide a crisp, structured finish ideal for sharp, geometric folds. Wool and cashmere are excellent for adding texture and are best suited for simpler, more relaxed folds.

  • Size and Shape: A standard pocket square is 16×16 inches (40×40 cm). This size offers the most versatility. Don’t be afraid to experiment with slightly smaller or larger squares to see what works best with your specific jacket and chest pocket.

The Pinnacle of Poise: The Three-Point Crown

The Three-Point Crown is a sophisticated and elegant fold that adds a touch of aristocratic flair without being overly formal. It’s a step up from the two-point fold, offering a more dynamic, yet balanced, silhouette.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. Start Flat: Lay the pocket square flat on a clean surface.

  2. Fold into a Triangle: Fold the square in half diagonally to form a large triangle. The points should be facing away from you.

  3. Create the First Point: Bring the left-hand point of the triangle over and slightly to the right of the center point. It should not be directly on top, but offset. This creates the first “crown” point.

  4. Form the Second Point: Take the right-hand point and bring it over to the left, crossing over the center point. Position it so it forms a third, distinct peak. Ensure all three points are visible and evenly spaced.

  5. Tuck and Adjust: Fold the left and right sides of the base of the triangle inward, creating a rectangular shape that will fit into your jacket pocket. The goal is to create a compact base while keeping the three points pristine.

  6. Insert and Display: Carefully insert the folded pocket square into your jacket pocket, ensuring the three points stand out neatly above the pocket line. Adjust the height so the points are visible but not so high that they’re distracting.

When to Wear: This fold is perfect for formal events, business settings, or any time you want to project an image of polished elegance. It pairs beautifully with solid suits and blazers, allowing the fold itself to be the focal point.

The Artful Arrangement: The Winged Puff

The Winged Puff combines the softness of the classic puff with the structured elegance of points. It’s a visually interesting fold that offers a unique blend of formal and informal aesthetics. This fold works best with silk or a soft cotton blend.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. The Initial Pinch: Lay the pocket square flat. Pinch it from the very center and lift it up, letting the fabric drape naturally.

  2. Form the ‘Wings’: Gently gather the fabric around the center pinch. Keep the corners of the square—the “wings”—exposed and separate from the central puff.

  3. The First Fold: Holding the pinched center, carefully fold the bottom part of the fabric upwards, towards the top. This will create a puffed effect in the middle while the four corners remain visible.

  4. Tucking the Sides: Now, fold the left and right sides of the puff inwards, creating a rectangular shape. The goal is to make the base narrow enough to fit in your pocket while preserving the central puff and the four “wings.”

  5. Place in Pocket: Place the folded square into your jacket pocket with the puffed center and the four points facing upwards. Arrange the “wings” so they cascade gracefully over the sides of the puff.

When to Wear: This fold is exceptionally versatile. It works well with patterned pocket squares, as the texture of the fold adds another layer of visual interest. It’s suitable for cocktail parties, weddings, or a stylish weekend look.

The Controlled Chaos: The Reversed Puff

The Reversed Puff is a rebellious take on the classic fold, deliberately showcasing the unkempt, gathered side of the pocket square. It’s a statement of effortless cool, suggesting a casual disregard for rigid formality. This fold is best executed with a silk or a soft, malleable cotton square.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. The Classic Pinch: Begin by laying the square flat. Pinch it in the center, lifting it up and allowing the fabric to fall around your hand.

  2. Form the ‘Mushroom’: Let the fabric drape into a loose, soft “mushroom” shape. Don’t worry about perfect symmetry. The charm of this fold is its imperfection.

  3. The Crucial Step: This is where the magic happens. Instead of inserting the gathered end into your pocket, you’re going to insert the folded “skirt” end. The “head” of the mushroom, the part you pinched, will be facing down, inside your pocket.

  4. Tuck and Arrange: Carefully tuck the loose ends of the square into your pocket. The top of the pocket square should display the gathered, bunched-up fabric. Gently pull and arrange the fabric to create a soft, rounded, and slightly chaotic shape.

When to Wear: The Reversed Puff is the epitome of smart-casual. It’s an excellent choice for a weekend blazer, a date night, or a creative professional environment where you want to project a relaxed yet stylish confidence. It pairs perfectly with a tweed jacket or an unstructured blazer.

The Geometric Statement: The Diagonal Shell

The Diagonal Shell is a highly architectural and structured fold that creates a series of diagonal lines and peaks. It’s a more advanced fold that requires a crisp fabric like linen or cotton to maintain its sharp edges.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. The Initial Square: Lay your pocket square flat.

  2. Fold into a Triangle: Fold the square diagonally to form a triangle.

  3. The First Fold: Take the bottom-left corner of the triangle and fold it upwards, parallel to the right side of the triangle. The edge should align, creating a smaller, vertical triangle.

  4. The Second Fold: Take the new bottom-left corner and fold it upwards again, following the same parallel line. You’re essentially creating a series of overlapping folds.

  5. The Final Folds: Continue this process, folding the remaining corners upwards until you have a series of parallel, diagonal folds. This will look like a set of stairs or a shell pattern.

  6. Insert and Display: Fold the bottom of the “shell” inwards to create a base that fits snugly in your pocket. Carefully insert it, ensuring the diagonal lines are visible and neat.

When to Wear: The Diagonal Shell is a power fold. It’s a fantastic choice for a business meeting or a formal occasion where you want to project an image of precision and attention to detail. It looks best with a solid-colored pocket square that won’t compete with the intricate pattern of the fold itself.

The Unexpected Twist: The Starburst

The Starburst is a vibrant, energetic fold that radiates from a central point. It’s a playful and creative fold that’s best suited for patterned or multi-colored pocket squares, as it showcases the fabric’s design in a unique way.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. Pinch and Twist: Lay the pocket square flat. Pinch the very center of the square and twist it gently, as if you’re wringing out a cloth.

  2. The Gathered Base: Continue twisting and gathering the fabric until you have a long, twisted rope with a central, gathered point.

  3. Create the ‘Starburst’ Effect: Loosely arrange the top of the twisted rope into a radiating, star-like shape. Don’t force it; let the fabric fall naturally.

  4. The Final Tuck: Fold the long, twisted tail of the pocket square back on itself, creating a neat base that will fit into your pocket. The goal is to make the base compact and stable while leaving the starburst effect on top.

  5. Positioning: Place the folded square in your pocket, with the starburst visible. Gently adjust the folds at the top to ensure they are even and radiating outwards.

When to Wear: This fold is perfect for creative industries, casual events, or any time you want to inject some fun and personality into your outfit. It’s particularly effective with pocket squares that have a central motif or a bold pattern.

Advanced Folds for the Aesthete

For those who have mastered the above and want to push the boundaries, here are two advanced folds that will truly set you apart. These folds are more complex and require a great deal of patience and precision.

The Double Diagonal

The Double Diagonal creates a sharp, two-toned effect that is visually striking. This fold works best with a pocket square that has a contrasting border.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. Start with the Square: Lay your pocket square flat.

  2. The First Fold: Fold the square in half diagonally, forming a triangle.

  3. The Second Fold: Fold it in half again to create a smaller triangle.

  4. The First Point: Bring the top-left point of the triangle across to the right, but not completely to the edge. Stop about an inch short.

  5. The Second Point: Bring the top-right point across to the left, so it is positioned just below the first point. This will create two diagonal lines.

  6. The Base: Fold the bottom of the triangle upwards, creating a rectangle that will fit in your pocket.

  7. Insert: Place the folded square in your pocket, ensuring the two diagonal lines are visible and distinct.

The Waterfall

The Waterfall is a cascading fold that creates a series of soft, rolling folds. It’s an elegant and fluid look that’s best achieved with a light silk or a similar drape-y fabric.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. The Accordion: Lay the pocket square flat. Fold it into an accordion, folding the fabric back and forth in parallel folds, like a fan. The folds should be about an inch wide.

  2. The Pinch: Once you’ve folded the entire square, pinch it in the center.

  3. The Twist: Twist the pinched center of the fan a full 360 degrees.

  4. The Final Fold: Fold the twisted part of the fan upwards, tucking it in behind the cascading folds.

  5. Place in Pocket: Insert the folded pocket square into your pocket, leaving the cascading folds visible. Gently arrange them to create a flowing, waterfall-like effect.

A Final Word on Style

The pocket square is a subtle art. The goal isn’t to create a fold so complex it looks like a party trick. The goal is to use the pocket square to complement your outfit, add a touch of personality, and show that you understand the power of detail. The folds outlined in this guide are not just about technique; they are about understanding the mood and the message you want to convey. So, choose your fold, practice, and let your pocket square tell a story.