How to Understand the Different Types of Cashmere Fibers

by

Understanding the Different Types of Cashmere Fibers

Cashmere is a name synonymous with luxury, softness, and exceptional warmth. But the world of cashmere is far more nuanced than a simple label. Just as not all diamonds are of the same quality, not all cashmere is created equal. The key to becoming a savvy consumer—and to truly appreciating the garment you’re buying—lies in understanding the different types of cashmere fibers. This isn’t about memorizing industry jargon; it’s about learning what to look for, what to feel for, and what questions to ask to ensure you’re getting the best value and quality for your investment.

This guide will demystify the world of cashmere, moving beyond marketing fluff to give you the practical knowledge you need. We’ll break down the factors that determine quality, from the fineness and length of the individual fibers to the specific regions they come from. By the end, you’ll be able to confidently distinguish between a high-end, long-lasting cashmere piece and a cheap, pill-prone imposter.

How to Deconstruct the Anatomy of a Cashmere Fiber

The quality of a cashmere garment begins at the microscopic level. You can’t see these individual fibers with the naked eye, but their characteristics dictate everything about the finished product—its softness, durability, and resistance to pilling. To understand the different types of cashmere, you must first understand the two primary metrics used to grade it: micron count and fiber length.

The Micron Count: A Measure of Fineness

The micron count is the single most important indicator of cashmere quality. A micron is a unit of measurement equal to one-millionth of a meter. When we talk about a fiber’s micron count, we’re talking about its diameter. The lower the micron count, the finer, softer, and more desirable the fiber.

  • Grade A Cashmere: This is the pinnacle of cashmere quality. It has a micron count of 14-15.5 microns and a fiber length of 34-36mm. This is the cashmere you feel and fall in love with—it’s incredibly soft, lightweight, and has a beautiful drape. It’s also the most expensive, a direct result of its scarcity. When you’re in a high-end boutique and feel a sweater that feels like air, you’re likely touching Grade A.

  • Grade B Cashmere: This is the most common grade found in mid-to-high-end retailers. It has a micron count of 16-18 microns and a fiber length of 28-32mm. While not as ultra-luxurious as Grade A, Grade B is still exceptionally soft and warm. It represents an excellent balance of quality and price. Many popular luxury brands use this grade for their core collections.

  • Grade C Cashmere: This is the lowest grade of pure cashmere, with a micron count of 19-30 microns and a fiber length of 24-28mm. It’s often used in fast-fashion and mass-market products. While it’s technically cashmere, it will feel coarser to the touch and is more prone to pilling and losing its shape. This is the kind of sweater you might find at a surprisingly low price point, but its lifespan will be significantly shorter.

Practical Application: The Touch Test

When you’re shopping, you won’t see a micron count on the label. So how do you use this knowledge? By performing a simple touch test.

  1. Gently rub the fabric against the back of your hand. The skin here is more sensitive than your fingertips. A high-quality piece will feel silky and almost indistinguishable from a fine silk or cotton blend. A lower-grade piece might feel a little fuzzy, slightly rough, or even have a ‘scratchy’ sensation.

  2. Look for pilling on new garments. A brand-new Grade C cashmere sweater might already show signs of pilling, especially in high-friction areas like under the arms. This is a huge red flag that the fibers are short and weak.

Fiber Length: The Second Pillar of Quality

After micron count, fiber length is the next critical factor. Think of it like this: a long fiber is like a long strand of hair. It’s strong and less likely to break. A short fiber is like a short strand of hair—it’s more likely to poke out and form a tangled ball, which in the world of cashmere, is a pill.

  • Long-Staple Cashmere: Refers to fibers that are longer than 34mm. This type of cashmere is found in Grade A products. The longer fibers create a tighter, smoother yarn, which in turn leads to a more durable, pill-resistant, and incredibly soft fabric.

  • Medium-Staple Cashmere: These fibers are typically between 28-32mm in length and are characteristic of Grade B cashmere. This is a very good quality cashmere that balances durability and softness.

  • Short-Staple Cashmere: Fibers shorter than 28mm are considered short-staple. This is the type found in Grade C cashmere. The shortness of the fibers means they’re more likely to break and migrate to the surface, creating those annoying little fuzzballs. This is the main reason why some cashmere sweaters pill after only a few wears.

Practical Application: The Pill Test (for new garments)

While you can’t physically measure the fiber length, you can infer it by examining the garment.

  1. Run your hand over the surface of the fabric. Does it feel smooth and slick, or does it feel slightly fluffy and “fuzzy”? That fluffiness is often a sign of shorter fibers starting to poke out.

  2. Look closely at the stitching and seams. A high-quality cashmere garment made with long-staple fibers will have a clean, tight weave with minimal fuzz around the stitching. A lower-quality garment might have a looser weave and more visible, loose fibers.

Understanding the Regional Origins of Cashmere

The geographical origin of cashmere is more than just a marketing story—it’s a genuine indicator of quality. The unique climate of a region directly impacts the quality of the goat’s underdown. The colder the climate, the more a goat needs to grow a fine, dense layer of down to protect itself. This makes the nomadic herding regions of Central Asia the gold standard for cashmere production.

  • Inner Mongolia: This is the most famous and highly regarded region for cashmere. The extreme temperature fluctuations, with scorching summers and frigid winters, force the goats to produce an incredibly fine and long-staple undercoat. This is the source of the world’s most sought-after Grade A cashmere. Brands that can authentically claim their cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia are often using this as a selling point because of its reputation for quality.

  • Mongolia (Outer Mongolia): The cashmere from Mongolia is also of exceptional quality, ranking just below Inner Mongolia. The climate is similarly harsh, producing fine and soft fibers. Many high-end brands source their raw material from this region as well.

  • Afghanistan, Iran, Pakistan: These regions also produce cashmere, but it’s generally considered to be of a lower grade. The climate is not as extreme, so the goats don’t need to produce the same ultra-fine undercoat. The fibers are often coarser and shorter, making them more suitable for blended fabrics or products where softness is not the primary concern.

  • Himalayan Region (Nepal, Tibet): This area is famous for its pashmina, a specific type of cashmere. Pashmina is defined by a very fine micron count (often 12-15 microns), but the fiber length can be more variable. When you see a label for a “pashmina shawl,” it’s often referring to a specific type of fabric from this region, not necessarily the same grade as a Grade A cashmere sweater from Inner Mongolia.

Practical Application: The Label Check and Questioning

When you’re buying a high-ticket cashmere item, don’t be afraid to ask about its origin.

  1. Read the label carefully. While “100% Cashmere” is a good start, a reputable brand will often specify the origin. Look for phrases like “Sourced from Inner Mongolia” or “Mongolian Cashmere.”

  2. Ask the sales associate. “Where does the cashmere come from?” and “What is the micron count and fiber length?” A knowledgeable associate at a high-end store should be able to provide this information or direct you to a source. If they give you a vague answer or act unsure, it’s a sign that the brand might be using lower-grade fibers.

Unpacking the Yarn and Ply: Weave and Construction

The quality of the raw fiber is only half the story. How that fiber is processed into yarn and then woven or knitted into a garment is equally important. This is where the concepts of ply, gauge, and knitting tension come into play.

Ply: The Number of Yarns Twisted Together

Ply refers to the number of individual strands of yarn twisted together to make a single thread. The most common are 2-ply and 4-ply.

  • 2-Ply Cashmere: This is the standard for most quality cashmere garments. Two strands of yarn are twisted together to create a stronger, more durable, and pill-resistant thread. A 2-ply sweater will feel substantial but not overly bulky. It’s an excellent choice for a daily-wear sweater.

  • 4-Ply Cashmere: This is a much thicker, heavier, and more luxurious cashmere. Four strands are twisted together, making the resulting garment incredibly warm, durable, and expensive. You’ll often find 4-ply cashmere in high-end cardigans and jackets meant for colder weather. It will have a more structured feel and less drape than a 2-ply garment.

  • Single-Ply Cashmere: While rare, some cheap cashmere garments are made with single-ply yarn. This means there’s only one strand, making the garment significantly weaker, less durable, and extremely prone to pilling and losing its shape. A single-ply sweater will feel thin, limp, and often look slightly sheer. Avoid these at all costs.

Practical Application: The “Squish” and “Drape” Test

  1. The Squish Test: Gently squeeze a section of the garment between your fingers. A 2-ply sweater will feel substantial and have a bit of a spring to it. A 4-ply will feel thick and dense. A single-ply will feel very thin and flat.

  2. The Drape Test: Hold a part of the garment up. A high-quality 2-ply or 4-ply cashmere will have a graceful, soft drape. A cheap, single-ply garment might feel stiff or, conversely, have a limp, lifeless drape.

Gauge: The Density of the Knit

Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch of knitted fabric. A high gauge means more stitches per inch, resulting in a tighter, denser, and smoother fabric. A low gauge means fewer stitches per inch, resulting in a looser, more open knit.

  • High Gauge (e.g., 12-16 gauge): This creates a fine, smooth, and lightweight fabric, perfect for sleek sweaters, turtlenecks, and cardigans that you can wear under a blazer. It uses finer yarn and requires more knitting time, making it more expensive.

  • Low Gauge (e.g., 5-7 gauge): This creates a chunkier, more casual knit, perfect for cable-knit sweaters and outerwear. The fabric will be thicker and have a more visible texture.

Practical Application: The Visual Inspection

  1. Examine the stitches. A high-gauge knit will have small, uniform stitches that are tightly packed together. The fabric will look smooth and almost flat.

  2. Look for gaps. A low-gauge knit will have more visible stitches and a more open structure. If you hold it up to the light, you might be able to see through it slightly. This is normal for a low-gauge knit, but if you see gaps in a supposed high-gauge knit, it’s a sign of poor quality control.

The Final Grade: Tying It All Together

Understanding cashmere is a holistic process. You can’t just look at one factor in isolation. A sweater made from Grade A, short-staple cashmere will still pill. A sweater made from low-grade, long-staple cashmere might feel scratchy. The ideal garment combines all the best attributes.

The Hierarchy of Cashmere Quality (In an Ideal World):

  1. The Connoisseur’s Choice: Grade A, long-staple cashmere (14-15.5 microns, 34-36mm+), sourced from Inner Mongolia, crafted into a tight 2-ply or 4-ply yarn, and knitted into a fine-gauge garment. This is the top tier. It will be buttery soft, durable, and last a lifetime with proper care.

  2. The Smart Investment: Grade B, medium-staple cashmere (16-18 microns, 28-32mm), sourced from Mongolia or Inner Mongolia, made into a sturdy 2-ply yarn, and knitted into a medium-to-high-gauge garment. This is a fantastic balance of quality, softness, and price.

  3. The Compromise: Grade C, short-staple cashmere (19+ microns, <28mm), sourced from other regions, potentially made into a single-ply yarn, and often found in lower-gauge knits to hide the poor fiber quality. This is the cashmere that will disappoint you. It may feel soft at first, but it will quickly pill, stretch out, and look worn.

The best way to become an expert is to handle as many different types of cashmere as possible. Visit different stores, from high-end luxury boutiques to mid-range department stores, and feel the difference. Compare a $150 cashmere sweater to a $500 one. Feel the weight, the drape, the texture. Soon, you’ll be able to identify a high-quality piece just by touch, without even looking at the label.

Your ability to understand the different types of cashmere fibers will transform you from a passive consumer into an empowered one. You’ll be able to make informed decisions, appreciate the craftsmanship behind a truly fine garment, and build a wardrobe of pieces that will not only feel incredible but also stand the test of time.