Effortless Elegance: Mastering the Art of Relaxed Lapels
In the world of menswear, the lapel is a small detail with outsized influence. It’s the sartorial handshake of a jacket, the first impression it makes. While traditionally associated with formality and structure, the lapel holds a secret power: it can be the key to unlocking a more relaxed, approachable, and effortlessly stylish vibe. This guide is your masterclass in using lapels not just as a design feature, but as a tool to create a look that is both sophisticated and comfortably at ease. We’ll move beyond the basics of lapel types and dive into the practical, actionable techniques that will transform your tailoring from rigid to relaxed.
The Lapel’s Hidden Language: From Rigid to Relaxed
Before we get into the “how,” let’s briefly understand the “why.” A traditional suit or sport coat often features a stiffly pressed, perfectly flat lapel. This is a deliberate choice, signaling professionalism, order, and adherence to rules. To create a relaxed vibe, we need to subvert this expectation without losing the garment’s inherent polish. Our goal is to introduce subtle signs of ease and spontaneity, making it appear as though you simply threw on the jacket and it happened to look perfect. This isn’t about being sloppy; it’s about being intentional in your nonchalance.
The Three Pillars of Relaxed Lapel Styling
Creating a relaxed vibe with your lapels hinges on three core pillars: Softness, Subtlety, and Strategic Accessorizing. Each of these works in concert to deconstruct the rigid formality of a jacket and imbue it with a more laid-back character.
Pillar 1: Softness – The Foundation of Effortless Style
The most direct way to introduce a relaxed vibe is by choosing garments with inherent softness. This isn’t just about the fabric; it’s about the construction.
Technique 1: Unstructured Jackets and Unlined Construction
This is the holy grail of relaxed tailoring. An unstructured jacket lacks the stiff shoulder padding, canvas, and heavy interlinings of a traditional suit coat. It drapes naturally over the shoulders and torso, mirroring the shape of your body rather than imposing a new one.
- Actionable Advice: When shopping, pick up the jacket and feel its weight. It should feel light and supple. Turn it inside out. If you can see the seams of the sleeves and body, it’s likely unlined. Try it on and move around; it should feel as comfortable as a sweater.
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Concrete Example: Pairing a beige, unstructured linen sport coat with a white crewneck t-shirt and dark denim jeans. The lapels on this jacket won’t stay perfectly flat; they’ll have a soft roll and maybe even a slight wrinkle, which is precisely the point. The lack of structure allows the lapel to follow the natural curve of your chest, creating a more fluid and less formal line.
Technique 2: The Lapel Roll – A Gentle Curve
A well-executed lapel roll is a hallmark of quality tailoring and a visual cue for a relaxed garment. Instead of a hard crease, the lapel should roll gently down to the first button.
- Actionable Advice: To check for a good roll, button the top button of a two-button jacket. The lapel should have a continuous, natural curve from the gorge (the notch where the collar meets the lapel) to the button. A hard, flat crease indicates a more rigid, formal construction. You can also gently pinch the lapel near the button; if it’s stiff and unyielding, it’s not going to give you the relaxed look you’re after.
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Concrete Example: A grey flannel blazer with a soft lapel roll. Worn over an open-collared chambray shirt, the lapel’s gentle curve complements the relaxed fabric of the shirt, creating a harmonious and approachable look suitable for a weekend lunch or creative office environment.
Technique 3: Embracing Natural Fabrics
The fabric itself dictates how a lapel will behave. Opt for materials that have a natural texture and drape.
- Actionable Advice: Seek out fabrics like linen, cotton, corduroy, tweed, and seersucker. These materials are less likely to hold a crisp, hard press and will naturally develop a softer, more worn-in character over time.
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Concrete Example: A hopsack wool jacket with a visible, basket-weave texture. Hopsack is a porous and slightly springy fabric, so its lapels will never look as sharp as a worsted wool suit. Combine this with a fine-gauge knit polo shirt underneath for a sophisticated yet comfortable aesthetic.
Pillar 2: Subtlety – The Art of the Undone
Once you have the right foundation, you can use subtle styling cues to further relax the look. This is about deconstructing traditional rules in a controlled and deliberate manner.
Technique 4: The Strategic Unbuttoning
A single button can change the entire character of your lapels. The way a jacket is buttoned (or unbuttoned) directly affects the way the lapels frame your chest and the rest of your outfit.
- Actionable Advice: The golden rule of a two-button jacket is “sometimes, always, never” (from top to bottom). For a relaxed vibe, however, consider the opposite: leaving the top button unfastened. This allows the lapels to fall more naturally and opens up the chest, creating a more casual feel. This works especially well with unstructured jackets.
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Concrete Example: A two-button navy cotton blazer worn over a simple white t-shirt. Leave both buttons unfastened. This allows the lapels to fall open, framing the t-shirt and creating a V-shape that is inherently more casual than a buttoned-up jacket. The look is polished but not at all stuffy.
Technique 5: The Lapel Pop – A Glimpse of the Underside
This is a more advanced technique that requires the right kind of lapel—one that has a soft, natural curve. By gently pulling the lapel away from the chest, you can create a subtle “pop” that suggests a spontaneous, unstudied style.
- Actionable Advice: This works best with jackets that have a soft roll and are made from a pliable fabric. Hold the jacket’s lapel by the seam where it meets the collar and gently pull it forward and slightly down. The goal is not to create a wrinkle, but to introduce a subtle, convex curve that makes the lapel appear more dynamic and less static.
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Concrete Example: A single-breasted herringbone tweed jacket. After buttoning the top button, gently “pop” the lapel just a bit, so it doesn’t lie perfectly flat. The result is a subtle lift that adds dimension and a touch of sprezzatura (studied carelessness). This is the kind of detail that makes an outfit look truly unique and personal.
Technique 6: The Lapel Bend – A Sign of Life
Similar to the “pop,” the bend is about introducing movement. Instead of a perfectly flat line, a subtle, intentional bend in the lapel gives the impression of a jacket that has been worn, lived in, and is a comfortable part of your personal style.
- Actionable Advice: This is not about creating a crease. Think of it as a gentle, vertical undulation. With your thumb and forefinger, gently pinch a small portion of the lapel fabric, a few inches below the gorge. Don’t press hard; simply encourage the fabric to fold slightly inwards. Do this on both sides.
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Concrete Example: A dark grey flannel blazer over a turtleneck sweater. As you wear the jacket, the lapels can be encouraged to have a gentle “bend.” This subtle detail breaks up the flat plane of the lapel and prevents the outfit from looking too pristine, which in turn makes it more approachable.
Pillar 3: Strategic Accessorizing – The Supporting Cast
The accessories you choose and how you wear them are just as important as the jacket itself. They can reinforce the relaxed vibe of your lapels or undermine it entirely.
Technique 7: The Collarless and Soft-Collar Shirt
The shirt you wear under your jacket has a direct impact on how the lapels sit. A stiff, starched spread collar will force the lapels to lie flat and create a very formal line.
- Actionable Advice: Ditch the stiff collars. Instead, opt for shirts with soft, unstructured collars. Think button-downs, camp collars, or even a simple crewneck t-shirt. The absence of a rigid collar allows the lapels to fall more naturally and creates a seamless, unforced connection between the shirt and the jacket.
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Concrete Example: A navy unlined sport coat paired with a light blue Oxford cloth button-down shirt. Leave the shirt’s top two buttons unfastened. The soft collar of the Oxford will naturally roll and fold, complementing the soft lapels of the jacket. The combination is a perfect balance of smart and casual. For an even more relaxed look, a simple white or black crewneck tee allows the jacket’s lapels to become the main focal point, framing a clean, minimalist canvas.
Technique 8: The Art of the Pocket Square – Less Is More
A pocket square can be a powerful tool for a relaxed vibe, but only if it’s done correctly. A perfectly folded, starched pocket square will kill the relaxed feel instantly.
- Actionable Advice: Go for the “puff” or “casual puff” fold. This is not really a fold at all; it’s about casually stuffing the square into the pocket. The goal is to have the fabric billow out in an unstructured way. Choose a non-silk fabric like cotton or linen with a visible texture.
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Concrete Example: A houndstooth sport coat with a lapel that has a nice roll. Use a white linen pocket square and casually push it into the breast pocket, letting the corners and edges peek out randomly. This looks spontaneous and effortless, in stark contrast to a rigid, TV-folded square.
Technique 9: The Lapel Pin – A Strategic Contradiction
While a lapel pin might seem like a formal accessory, it can be used to add a touch of personality and subvert the traditional, stuffy image of a jacket.
- Actionable Advice: Choose a pin that is understated and personal, not overly ornate or corporate. A simple metal flower, a small geometric shape, or even a vintage enamel pin can work. The key is to choose something that feels like an intentional, personal choice, not a mandatory formal accessory.
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Concrete Example: A charcoal wool blazer with soft lapels. Add a small, silver lapel pin shaped like a simple leaf. The pin adds a small point of interest without drawing too much attention. It’s a subtle detail that says, “I’ve thought about this, but I’m not taking it too seriously.”
The Final Touch: The Overall Ensemble
Your lapels don’t exist in a vacuum. The entire outfit must support the relaxed message.
- Trousers: Pair your relaxed jacket with chinos, five-pocket trousers, or even slim-fitting denim instead of traditional wool slacks.
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Footwear: Swap out polished oxfords for loafers, Chelsea boots, or clean leather sneakers. The footwear choice immediately signals the level of formality.
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Shirt Integration: When wearing a collared shirt, consider leaving the top button undone and the collar unfastened, allowing the collar to sit naturally and complementing the relaxed lapels.
The art of using lapels to create a more relaxed vibe is an exercise in deconstruction. It’s about taking the elements of a formal garment and subtly introducing signs of ease and comfort. It’s not about being sloppy; it’s about being in control of your look and allowing the garment to express your personal style rather than dictating it. By focusing on softness, subtlety, and strategic accessorizing, you can transform your tailoring from rigid and formal to effortlessly cool and approachable. The lapel is your canvas; your style is the masterpiece.