How to Get the Runway Look: Styling Epaulettes Like a Pro

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The Ultimate Guide to Styling Epaulettes Like a Pro: Get the Runway Look

Epaulettes, once a symbol of military rank and authority, have marched their way off the parade ground and onto the world’s most prestigious runways. From Balmain’s signature structured jackets to Gucci’s playful reinterpretation of vintage uniforms, these shoulder adornments have become a fashion powerhouse. But how do you translate this high-fashion statement into a wearable, everyday look without looking like you’re in costume? This guide is your definitive blueprint for mastering the art of styling epaulettes, transforming your wardrobe from mundane to masterful. We’ll show you how to leverage these sartorial details to build a powerful, polished, and undeniably chic aesthetic.

Understanding the Epaulette: More Than Just a Detail

Before we dive into the “how-to,” let’s understand the different types of epaulettes you’ll encounter. This isn’t just about a single style; it’s a diverse category of design elements.

  • The Classic Button-Down Epaulette: The most common form, typically found on trench coats, military-style jackets, and some shirts. These are usually a simple strap of fabric secured with a button, creating a clean, structured line.

  • The Embellished Epaulette: Think beading, embroidery, metallic threads, or even chains. These are the show-stoppers, often seen on haute couture and designer pieces. They are the focal point of an outfit and require careful styling to avoid overkill.

  • The Structured Epaulette: This type uses padding or stiff fabric to create a more defined, sharp shoulder line. They are an evolution of the 80s power suit and are used to create a strong, authoritative silhouette.

  • The Functional Epaulette: Found on safari jackets and some utility vests, these are often designed to hold a bag strap or a piece of equipment. In a fashion context, they add a rugged, utilitarian touch.

The key to styling epaulettes lies in understanding their purpose within the garment. Are they there to create a silhouette, add a point of interest, or serve as the main event? Your styling strategy will change based on this crucial distinction.

Chapter 1: The Foundation – Building the Right Silhouette

Epaulettes fundamentally alter the perceived shape of your shoulders. This is the most critical element to master. A well-styled epaulette look is all about proportion and balance.

1. The Rule of the Triangle: Creating a V-Shaped Frame

Epaulettes naturally broaden the shoulder line. To balance this, you need to draw the eye downward. A V-neckline or an open jacket creates an inverted triangle shape, framing the face and extending the neck, which counteracts the width added by the epaulettes.

  • Concrete Example: Pair a military-inspired jacket with prominent epaulettes over a simple black V-neck t-shirt. The V-neck breaks up the strong horizontal line of the shoulders, creating a more flattering and balanced look. This works for both men and women.

2. Balancing Volume: Top-Heavy vs. Bottom-Heavy

When wearing a top with epaulettes, the upper half of your body will appear more substantial. The key is to balance this volume with the right choice of bottoms.

  • For Broad-Shouldered Individuals: Avoid skinny jeans or tight-fitting bottoms, as they can make your upper body look disproportionately large. Instead, opt for straight-leg trousers, bootcut jeans, or an A-line skirt. These silhouettes add volume to the lower half, creating a more harmonious hourglass or inverted triangle shape.

  • For Narrow-Shouldered Individuals: Epaulettes are your best friend. They can create the illusion of broader shoulders, adding a powerful and confident edge. You can more easily get away with skinny jeans or fitted skirts, as the epaulettes will balance the narrowness of your hips.

  • Concrete Example: A woman with an athletic build wears a structured blazer with subtle epaulettes. She pairs it with wide-leg trousers and heeled ankle boots. The trousers create a parallel line to the shoulders, and the heels add height, elongating the overall silhouette and preventing her from looking top-heavy.

Chapter 2: The Art of Layering and Texture

Styling epaulettes is a masterclass in controlled layering. You need to highlight the detail without burying it or overwhelming the outfit.

1. The Simple Underlayer: Let the Epaulettes Shine

When your garment’s epaulettes are the main feature, the layers underneath should be understated. This allows the detail to stand out without competing with other elements.

  • Concrete Example: A man wears a tailored trench coat with prominent button-down epaulettes. Underneath, he opts for a simple, crew-neck cashmere sweater and dark wash jeans. The textures contrast (smooth cashmere vs. sturdy cotton twill), but the colors are monochromatic, ensuring the epaulettes on the trench coat remain the star of the show.

2. Strategic Color Play: Creating Contrast and Harmony

Color can either draw attention to your epaulettes or help them blend in. Use this to your advantage.

  • To Highlight: Wear an epauletted garment in a contrasting color to your base layer. For example, a black jacket with epaulettes over a white shirt. The contrast makes the shoulders pop.

  • To Subdue: Create a monochromatic look. A navy blue shirt with navy blue epaulettes creates a seamless, sophisticated aesthetic where the epaulettes add a textural detail rather than a sharp visual break.

  • Concrete Example: A woman styles a safari-inspired blouse with functional epaulettes in an olive green. She pairs it with a cream-colored pencil skirt. The stark color contrast draws the eye to the structured shoulder line and the unique details of the blouse.

3. Texture Mixing: The Power of Tactile Contrast

Don’t be afraid to mix textures to add depth and interest. This is especially effective when the epaulettes are part of a more subtle design.

  • Concrete Example: A leather biker jacket with subtle, padded epaulettes is paired with a lightweight, flowing silk dress. The juxtaposition of the tough, structured leather and the soft, fluid silk creates a dynamic and modern look. The epaulettes on the jacket add to its rugged charm, while the dress provides a feminine counterpoint.

Chapter 3: Styling for Different Occasions

Epaulettes aren’t just for casual wear. With the right approach, they can be styled for everything from the office to a black-tie event.

The Professional Power Look: Office-Appropriate Epaulettes

The office is the perfect setting for a structured, powerful look. Epaulettes here should be subtle and integrated into the garment’s design.

1. The Blazer with a Twist:

Choose a well-tailored blazer with structured shoulders and clean, minimalist epaulettes. This adds a level of authority without being overly theatrical.

  • Concrete Example: A woman wears a charcoal gray blazer with understated, buttoned epaulettes. She styles it with a crisp white button-down shirt and tailored black trousers. This is a classic power look that exudes confidence and competence.

2. The Sophisticated Knit:

Look for fine-gauge knit sweaters or cardigans that feature epaulette-like details, often in a contrasting knit pattern or with a subtle button.

  • Concrete Example: A man wears a high-quality merino wool sweater in a deep burgundy. The sweater has a subtle ribbed detail on the shoulders that mimics the shape of an epaulette. He pairs it with dark gray chinos and polished leather loafers for a smart-casual office look.

Casual Chic: Weekend Epaulette Style

This is where you can have more fun with color, texture, and relaxed silhouettes.

1. The Utility Jacket:

A utility or safari jacket with epaulettes is a weekend staple. It’s practical, stylish, and adds an effortless coolness to any outfit.

  • Concrete Example: A woman pairs an olive green safari jacket with epaulettes over a simple striped t-shirt and white denim shorts. She completes the look with classic canvas sneakers and a crossbody bag. The epaulettes add a touch of rugged adventure to a simple, comfortable ensemble.

2. The Military-Inspired Shirt:

A lightweight cotton or linen shirt with epaulettes is perfect for a relaxed yet put-together look. Roll up the sleeves for a more casual vibe.

  • Concrete Example: A man wears a light blue military-style shirt with epaulettes, leaving the top two buttons undone. He pairs it with beige chinos and slip-on loafers. The epaulettes provide a structured element to an otherwise relaxed outfit.

Evening Glamour: Making a Statement

This is the time to embrace embellished and dramatic epaulettes. Your garment is the centerpiece; everything else should support it.

1. The Embellished Blazer:

Choose a blazer or jacket with intricate, heavily embellished epaulettes. Think beading, sequins, or metallic embroidery.

  • Concrete Example: A woman wears a black velvet blazer with gold braided epaulettes over a simple black slip dress. The rest of her accessories are minimal: a small clutch and simple stiletto heels. The epaulettes provide all the drama and visual interest needed for a glamorous evening out.

2. The Statement Coat:

For a colder climate or a truly dramatic entrance, a coat with structured or embellished epaulettes is the ultimate fashion statement.

  • Concrete Example: A man wears a structured wool coat with sharp, padded epaulettes to a winter event. He layers it over a crisp tuxedo. The epaulettes on the coat create a formidable and elegant silhouette that makes a powerful first impression.

Chapter 4: The Accessories & Final Touches

Accessories are the final polish that can make or break your epaulette look. They should either complement the detail or provide a necessary counterpoint.

1. The Role of the Scarf:

A scarf can be used to either draw attention to or away from your epaulettes.

  • To Soften the Look: A soft, flowing scarf draped loosely around the neck can soften the sharp lines of a structured epaulette, creating a more romantic or elegant feel.

  • To Accentuate: A sharply tied silk scarf that sits below the collar can frame the shoulder area, drawing the eye to the epaulettes.

  • Concrete Example: A woman wears a trench coat with classic epaulettes. She ties a floral silk scarf in a simple knot at the base of her neck. The scarf’s pattern provides a delicate contrast to the coat’s military structure, and its placement helps frame the face without obscuring the shoulder detail.

2. Bags and Belts: The Proportional Play

The size and placement of your bag and belt can significantly impact your overall silhouette.

  • Bags: Avoid bags with long, thin shoulder straps that cut across the epaulette, as this will disrupt the clean line. A handheld tote, a clutch, or a crossbody bag with a wider strap worn below the hip are better choices.

  • Belts: A belt can cinch the waist, creating a more defined hourglass shape and balancing the broadened shoulders. A thick, statement belt works well with a structured jacket, while a thin, delicate belt is better suited for a shirt or dress.

  • Concrete Example: A man wears a military-style shirt with epaulettes. He pairs it with a sturdy leather belt with a simple buckle, which defines his waist and adds a rugged element that complements the shirt’s style.

3. Jewelry: Keep it Strategic

When wearing a garment with epaulettes, especially embellished ones, your jewelry needs to be chosen with care.

  • Necklaces: Opt for necklaces that sit either high on the neck (a choker) or low, below the neckline of your top, to avoid cluttering the area around the shoulders.

  • Earrings: Statement earrings can be a powerful choice, as they draw the eye up towards the face and away from the shoulders, creating a balanced focal point.

  • Concrete Example: A woman is wearing a blazer with chain-link epaulettes. She foregoes a necklace and instead wears a pair of striking geometric drop earrings. The earrings complement the metallic detail on the shoulders without competing with it.

Conclusion: Beyond the Trend, a Timeless Statement

Mastering the art of styling epaulettes is about more than just following a trend; it’s about understanding how to use a specific design element to manipulate proportion, create a silhouette, and express a certain aesthetic. From the subtle authority of a structured blazer to the dramatic flair of an embellished jacket, epaulettes offer a unique opportunity to elevate your style. By focusing on silhouette, strategic layering, and mindful accessorizing, you can confidently integrate this runway-ready detail into your everyday wardrobe. The result is a powerful, polished, and unforgettable look that speaks volumes without a single word.