How to Make a Bodice with a Button-Front Closure

by

Crafting a Button-Front Bodice: A Definitive Guide

Creating a button-front bodice is a fundamental skill that opens up a world of design possibilities. A well-constructed button placket not only provides a functional closure but also adds a classic, tailored aesthetic to any garment. This guide will walk you through every step, from pattern preparation to the final button-and-buttonhole application, ensuring a professional and flawless result. We’ll focus on a detailed, step-by-step approach, offering concrete examples and practical tips to avoid common pitfalls.

Pattern Preparation: The Foundation of Success

Before you even touch a pair of scissors, careful pattern preparation is essential. Most bodice patterns are designed to be cut on the fold at the center front. To create a button placket, you’ll need to modify this.

  1. Eliminate the “Cut on Fold” Instruction: The first and most critical step is to ignore the “cut on fold” instruction for the front bodice pattern piece. You will be cutting two separate, mirrored front pieces.

  2. Add Seam Allowance to the Center Front: Your pattern likely has a seam allowance everywhere except the center front, which was originally a fold line. You must add a seam allowance to this new cutting edge. A standard 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) is a safe and common choice.

  3. Drafting the Button Placket: This is where you create the space for your buttons and buttonholes. The width of your placket is determined by the size of your buttons. A general rule of thumb is to make the placket width 1.5 times the diameter of your button.

    • Example: For a button that is 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, your placket will be 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide.

    • Draw a line parallel to the new center front cutting line. This is your fold line.

    • Measure out your placket width from the fold line and draw another parallel line. This will be the new cutting line for your placket extension.

    • You now have a front bodice piece with a built-in extension for the button placket. You will cut two of these mirrored pieces.

  4. Creating a Facing (Optional but Recommended): A facing provides a clean, professional finish on the inside of the garment. To create a facing pattern, trace the neckline and armhole of your modified front bodice piece. The facing should be wide enough to cover the placket and extend a few inches into the bodice.

    • Example: A facing width of 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) is typically sufficient.

    • Cut two of these facing pieces, and remember to apply a lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of both facing pieces for added structure and stability.

Fabric Cutting and Interfacing

Once your pattern is ready, it’s time to cut your fabric.

  1. Main Bodice Pieces: Cut two mirrored front bodice pieces from your main fabric, following your modified pattern. Remember to also cut your back bodice piece and any other pattern components, such as sleeves or collars.

  2. Facing Pieces: Cut two mirrored front facing pieces from your facing fabric.

  3. Interfacing: Apply interfacing to the wrong side of your front bodice placket extension and your facing pieces. This provides the necessary stability for the buttons and buttonholes, preventing the fabric from stretching or pulling. Use an iron on a dry setting and press firmly for about 10-15 seconds in each spot, allowing the interfacing adhesive to bond with the fabric.

Construction: Assembling the Bodice

Now, the sewing begins! The order of operations is crucial for a clean finish.

  1. Darts and Seams: Begin by sewing any darts on your front and back bodice pieces. Press the darts correctly—bust darts are typically pressed down, and waist darts are pressed towards the center. With right sides together, sew the shoulder seams and side seams. Finish these raw edges with a zigzag stitch or a serger to prevent fraying. Press the seams open or towards the back, depending on your fabric and desired finish.

  2. Preparing the Placket: This is a multi-step process that requires precision.

    • First Fold: Fold the raw edge of the placket extension to the wrong side by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) and press. This creates a clean edge.

    • Second Fold: Now, fold the entire placket extension to the wrong side along your pre-marked fold line (the line you drew parallel to the center front seam allowance). Press this fold crisply.

    • Topstitching: Topstitch the placket in place along the folded edge. A good practice is to sew two lines of topstitching—one close to the inner fold and another close to the outer edge of the placket—for a professional, finished look. Repeat this process for both front bodice pieces.

  3. Attaching the Facing (if applicable): If you’re using a facing, it will be attached at this stage.

    • With right sides together, pin the front facing to the front bodice along the neckline and the inner edge of the placket.

    • Sew along these pinned edges with your chosen seam allowance.

    • Clip the curved edges of the neckline to allow it to lie flat.

    • Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press.

    • Understitching: To keep the facing from rolling to the outside, understitch the seam allowance to the facing. This means sewing a line of stitches on the facing, close to the seam line, through the facing and the seam allowance only.

    • Finally, tack the facing down at the shoulder and side seams to secure it in place.

Creating Buttonholes and Attaching Buttons

This is the final, and most satisfying, step. Taking the time to do this correctly will make a huge difference in the final look and feel of your garment.

  1. Buttonhole Placement: Traditionally, women’s garments have buttonholes on the right front placket, and men’s garments have them on the left.
    • Lay the bodice flat and mark the position of your buttonholes. The top buttonhole should be about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) below the neckline.

    • The bottom buttonhole should be about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) above the bottom edge of the bodice.

    • Space the remaining buttonholes evenly between the top and bottom markings. Use a ruler and a fabric marker to ensure perfect spacing.

  2. Sewing the Buttonholes:

    • Consult your sewing machine’s manual for specific instructions on creating buttonholes. Most modern machines have an automatic buttonhole foot that makes this process easy and precise.

    • Make a test buttonhole on a scrap of fabric to ensure the size and tension are correct.

    • Carefully sew each buttonhole on the marked spots.

    • Open the buttonholes using a seam ripper. Be careful not to cut through the stitching. A pin placed at the end of the buttonhole can act as a stop to prevent over-ripping.

  3. Attaching the Buttons:

    • Lay the buttonhole placket directly over the button placket, ensuring the bodice is aligned perfectly.

    • Using a fabric marker or a pin, mark the center of each buttonhole opening on the underlying placket. This is where your buttons will be sewn.

    • Sew the buttons on securely, either by hand or with a button-sewing foot on your machine.

    • For a professional look, consider creating a thread shank for your buttons. This little bit of extra thread allows the fabric of the buttonhole to sit neatly under the button without bunching.

Conclusion

A button-front bodice is more than just a piece of a garment; it’s a statement of skill and attention to detail. By following these steps—from careful pattern modification to precise button and buttonhole placement—you can create a garment that is both beautiful and built to last. This guide empowers you to move beyond simple closures and embrace the elegant, classic look of a well-made button-front bodice.

How to add a button placket to your front bodice block This video is a helpful visual guide on how to draft a button placket for a bodice block.

[

How to add a button stand to your front bodice block and create a front facing – YouTube

](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFxytcjVNIg)