How to Make a Bias Cut Pencil Skirt That Hugs Your Curves

The bias cut pencil skirt is a masterclass in garment construction and a testament to the power of fabric. Unlike a traditional straight-grain skirt, which relies on darts and seams to create shape, a bias cut skirt uses the fabric’s natural stretch to drape and conform to the body. This guide will walk you through the precise, actionable steps to create a bias cut pencil skirt that truly hugs your curves, from selecting the perfect fabric to the final, delicate hemming.

I. Understanding the Bias: The Foundation of a Perfect Fit

Before we cut, we must understand the bias. The bias grain of a woven fabric is the diagonal direction, typically at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. Fabric cut on the bias has significant stretch and excellent drape, making it ideal for garments that need to flow and contour the body without bunching or restricting movement.

Actionable Example: Take a piece of woven fabric. Gently pull it along the straight grain (parallel to the selvage). You’ll feel minimal stretch. Now, pull it along the bias (at a 45-degree angle). You’ll notice a much greater give. This stretch is what will allow your skirt to move with you and flatter your shape.

II. The Essential Toolkit: Gathering Your Supplies

A successful project starts with the right tools. Skimping on quality here will lead to frustration and a less-than-perfect result.

Fabric: The most critical component. Choose a lightweight to medium-weight woven fabric with good drape.
- Ideal choices: Silk charmeuse, rayon challis, crepe de chine, and Tencel twill.
- Fabric to avoid: Stiff cotton, heavy denim, or anything with a visible, bulky texture. These will not drape properly.
Pattern Paper: For creating your custom pattern. We won’t be using a commercial pattern.
Tape Measure: For precise body measurements.
Ruler: A clear acrylic ruler is best for marking straight lines.
French Curve or Hip Curve Ruler: Essential for drafting smooth, natural curves for the hip and waist.
Rotary Cutter and Mat: While scissors can work, a rotary cutter provides cleaner, more precise cuts on the bias.
Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Pen: For marking lines on your fabric.
Pins: Use fine, sharp dressmaker pins to avoid snagging delicate fabrics.
Sewing Machine: With a sharp needle appropriate for your fabric (e.g., a Microtex or sharp needle for silks and fine weaves).
Thread: Matching thread, preferably a high-quality polyester for strength and durability.
Invisible Zipper: A 7-inch or 9-inch invisible zipper to maintain a seamless look.
Hook and Eye Closure: For the top of the zipper.
Interfacing: A lightweight, fusible interfacing for the waistband facing.

III. Drafting Your Custom Pattern: The Blueprint for a Flawless Fit

This is where the magic happens. We’ll draft a half-skirt pattern based on your unique measurements. This ensures a perfect fit, something commercial patterns often fail to deliver for a bias cut.

Step 1: Taking Your Measurements Take the following measurements while wearing form-fitting clothing or your undergarments.

Natural Waist: The narrowest part of your torso.
High Hip: Approximately 4-5 inches below your natural waist, where your hip starts to curve.
Full Hip: The widest part of your hips.
Skirt Length: From your natural waist down to where you want the hem to fall.

Step 2: Calculating Pattern Dimensions We will draft a pattern for one-half of the front and one-half of the back. For a standard pencil skirt fit, we won’t add much ease. The bias cut itself provides the necessary give.

Waist Measurement: Divide your natural waist measurement by 4. This is your pattern waist width.
High Hip Measurement: Divide your high hip measurement by 4.
Full Hip Measurement: Divide your full hip measurement by 4.
Pattern Length: Your desired skirt length.

Step 3: Drafting the Pattern on Paper

Establish the Center Line: Draw a long vertical line on your pattern paper. This will be the center front/back of your skirt.
Mark the Waistline: Perpendicular to the center line, draw a horizontal line at the top. This is your waistline.
Mark the Skirt Length: From the waistline, measure down your desired skirt length and draw another horizontal line. This is your hemline.
Mark the Hip Lines: Measure down from the waistline to your high hip and full hip points. Draw horizontal lines at these points.
Plot the Widths:
- On the waistline, measure out from the center line your calculated waist width. Mark this point.
- On the high hip line, measure out your calculated high hip width. Mark this point.
- On the full hip line, measure out your calculated full hip width. Mark this point.
- For the hem, measure in from the full hip line about 1-2 inches to create the classic pencil skirt taper. Mark this point.
Connect the Dots: Using your French curve or hip curve ruler, connect the points from the waist to the hem in a smooth, continuous line. Ensure the curve from the high hip to the full hip is a seamless, flattering arc.
Add Seam Allowance: Now, add a 5/8-inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance around the side and bottom edges of your pattern piece. Do not add seam allowance to the center front/back line, as this will be placed on the fold.
Label and Cut: Label your pattern piece clearly (e.g., “Bias Cut Pencil Skirt – Front/Back”) and mark the grainline arrow at a 45-degree angle. This is crucial. Cut out your pattern piece.

Actionable Example: Let’s say your measurements are: Waist 28″, High Hip 34″, Full Hip 38″, Length 26″.

Waist: 28 / 4 = 7″
High Hip: 34 / 4 = 8.5″
Full Hip: 38 / 4 = 9.5″
Draft your pattern with these widths, and add the seam allowance as described.

IV. Cutting Your Fabric on the Bias: The Most Important Step

This is the point of no return. A single mistake here can ruin the entire drape of the skirt.

Step 1: Prepare Your Fabric Wash and press your fabric before cutting to pre-shrink it. This prevents any unwanted changes after the garment is sewn.

Step 2: Locate the True Bias Lay your fabric out flat on a large surface. Identify the selvage edge. The true bias is the line that runs at a perfect 45-degree angle to the selvage. Use your ruler to measure and mark this 45-degree angle accurately.

Step 3: Pin and Cut

Pin the Pattern: Carefully place your drafted pattern piece onto the fabric, aligning the 45-degree grainline arrow on your pattern with the 45-degree bias line you just marked on your fabric. Pin the pattern in place securely. Use many pins, especially with slippery fabrics.
Cut the Pieces:
- Center Front: Place your pattern piece on the fabric with the center line of the pattern aligned with a fold in the fabric. This creates one seamless front piece. Cut carefully, using your rotary cutter for precision.
- Back Pieces: Place your pattern piece on the flat fabric. You will cut two mirrored back pieces. Remember, these will have a seam down the back for the zipper. So, do not place the center line on a fold. Cut carefully.

Actionable Example: When you lay your fabric, find the selvage. Measure from the selvage corner along the selvage for 10 inches, and then measure perpendicular to the selvage for 10 inches. The diagonal line connecting these two points is a perfect 45-degree angle—your true bias. Align your pattern’s grainline arrow with this line.

V. Construction: Sewing Your Skirt with Precision

Bias-cut garments require a gentle touch. Do not pull or stretch the fabric while sewing. Let the machine feed the fabric naturally.

Step 1: Sew the Side Seams

Pin: Lay the front and back pieces with right sides together. Pin the side seams.
Stitch: Using a 5/8-inch seam allowance, sew the side seams.
Finish Seams: Press the seams open. To prevent fraying, you can serge the raw edges or use a zigzag stitch.

Step 2: Installing the Invisible Zipper

Prepare the Back Seam: Pin the center back seam from the waist to the zipper stop point (approximately 7-9 inches down).
Baste: Hand-baste the back seam closed.
Iron the Zipper: Carefully press the zipper teeth flat with a warm iron. This makes it easier to sew.
Pin the Zipper: With the skirt inside out, align the zipper face down along the basted seam, aligning the teeth with the seam line. Pin in place.
Sew the Zipper: Using your invisible zipper foot, sew the zipper in place. Sew each side separately, getting as close to the teeth as possible without stitching over them.
Remove Basting: Once the zipper is sewn in, carefully remove the basting stitches. The zipper should be invisible when closed.
Finish the Back Seam: Sew the remaining portion of the back seam below the zipper. Press this seam open.

Step 3: Creating the Waistband Facing

Cut the Facing: On the straight grain of your fabric (not the bias), cut a rectangular strip of fabric for your waistband facing. The length should be your natural waist measurement plus 1.25 inches for seam allowance. The width should be 2.5 inches.
Interface: Apply a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband facing piece. This provides stability.
Attach the Facing: Sew the short ends of the waistband facing together to create a loop. Right sides together, pin the facing to the top edge of the skirt waist.
Stitch: Sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.
Understitch: Press the seam allowance towards the facing. From the right side, stitch close to the seam line, catching the seam allowance underneath. This is called understitching, and it prevents the facing from rolling to the outside.
Finish: Turn the facing to the inside of the skirt. Fold the raw edge under by 5/8 inch and hand-stitch or machine-stitch it in place for a clean finish. Add a hook and eye closure at the top of the zipper.

VI. The Crucial Step: Hanging Your Skirt

This step is non-negotiable for any bias-cut garment. The fabric, once on the bias, will stretch and drop unevenly due to gravity.

Step 1: Hang it Up Hang your skirt on a padded hanger by the waistband.

Step 2: Let it Settle Leave the skirt hanging for at least 24 to 48 hours. This allows the fabric to stretch and settle into its final shape.

Actionable Example: After sewing the side seams and waistband, put your skirt on a hanger. Hang it in a closet. Go do something else. Do not rush this step. If you hem it now, your hemline will be uneven later.

VII. The Final Touches: Hemming with Elegance

After the skirt has settled, it’s time for the final, delicate hemming.

Step 1: Mark the Hemline

Wear the Skirt: Put the skirt on.
Mark Evenly: Have a friend help you mark the desired hemline with tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen. Use a ruler to ensure the hemline is an even distance from the floor all the way around.
Trim: Carefully take the skirt off and use your rotary cutter to trim the excess fabric, following your marked line.

Step 2: The Rolled Hem A rolled hem is the ideal finish for a bias-cut skirt, as it is light and inconspicuous.

Fold and Press: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up by a small amount (e.g., 1/4 inch) and press.
Fold Again: Fold the edge up one more time and press. This encloses the raw edge.
Stitch: Use a straight stitch close to the folded edge to secure the hem.

Actionable Example: A double-folded rolled hem provides the cleanest, most professional finish. Fold 1/4 inch, press. Fold another 1/4 inch, press. Stitch. This keeps the hem from being bulky and allows the skirt to flow naturally.

Conclusion

Creating a bias cut pencil skirt that truly hugs your curves is a rewarding project that demands precision and patience. By understanding the nature of the bias grain, drafting a custom pattern, and executing each step with a focus on detail, you can create a garment that is not only beautiful but also a testament to your skill. The result is a piece that drapes gracefully, moves with you, and celebrates the elegant simplicity of a well-made garment.