How to Choose a Pocket Square for a Wedding

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The Definitive Guide to Choosing a Wedding Pocket Square

A pocket square is more than a folded piece of fabric; it’s the final flourish, the sartorial exclamation point that completes your wedding attire. Whether you’re the groom, a groomsman, or a guest, selecting the right pocket square elevates your look from simply dressed to impeccably styled. But with countless colors, fabrics, and folds to choose from, the task can seem daunting. This guide will demystify the process, providing you with a clear, actionable roadmap to choosing the perfect pocket square for any wedding.

The Foundation: Understanding the Basics

Before diving into the specifics, let’s establish a few fundamental principles. Your pocket square should complement, not match, your tie. A perfect match creates a monolithic block of color that lacks dimension and appears dated. Instead, think in terms of harmony and contrast. The pocket square should pull in a color from another element of your outfit, such as a subtle stripe in your shirt or a faint hue in your tie pattern, creating a cohesive and intentional aesthetic.

Fabric First: The Material Matters

The fabric of your pocket square dictates its formality, its drape, and how easily it holds a fold. Choosing the right material is the first and most critical step.

  • Silk: The king of pocket square fabrics, silk is the most formal option. Its luxurious sheen catches the light beautifully, making it ideal for a black-tie or formal wedding. Silk is best for puff folds, as its soft nature drapes elegantly without sharp lines. However, it can be slippery and challenging to fold into precise, geometric shapes.

  • Linen: The quintessential summer fabric, linen is known for its crisp, matte texture. It’s less formal than silk but is perfect for semi-formal, beach, or daytime weddings. Linen holds sharp folds exceptionally well, making it the ideal choice for the Presidential or Crown fold. Its texture adds a touch of casual elegance.

  • Cotton: A versatile and practical option, cotton is a workhorse fabric. It shares the crispness of linen, holding folds with precision, but lacks the same level of formality. Cotton pocket squares are excellent for more casual weddings or for groomsmen who need a uniform look that is both affordable and easy to maintain.

  • Wool/Tweed: These fabrics are reserved for colder weather weddings, particularly those with a rustic or country theme. Their textured, heavier feel pairs perfectly with tweed or flannel suits. A wool pocket square adds warmth and a tactile dimension to a fall or winter wedding outfit.

Actionable Example: For a black-tie wedding, opt for a white silk pocket square. For a daytime garden wedding, a light blue linen pocket square is the perfect choice.

Color and Pattern: A Masterclass in Harmony

The pocket square is your opportunity to introduce color and pattern into your ensemble. However, this is where many people make mistakes. The key is to create visual interest without overwhelming the overall look.

The Power of White: A Timeless Classic

You can never go wrong with a classic white pocket square. It’s the most formal, elegant, and foolproof choice. A crisp white linen square in a Presidential fold exudes confidence and sophistication, and it’s suitable for any wedding, regardless of the dress code. For a groom, a white pocket square can symbolize purity and tradition, providing a clean counterpoint to the more colorful elements of the groomsmen’s outfits.

Strategic Color Pairing: The 60-30-10 Rule

Think of your outfit in terms of color distribution. The suit is your dominant color (60%), the shirt and shoes are your secondary (30%), and the tie, pocket square, and other accessories are your accent colors (10%).

  • For the Groom: If your suit is navy, your shirt is white, and your tie is a deep burgundy, a pocket square that pulls a subtle fleck of burgundy or even a contrasting yet complementary color like a pale blue or a dusty rose will tie the whole look together.

  • For the Groomsmen: Consistency is key. If the groomsmen are all wearing navy suits with a lavender tie, a pocket square with a simple lavender border or a solid lavender color (in a different fabric to avoid a perfect match) will create a unified look.

  • For the Guest: You have the most freedom. If your suit is gray and your shirt is light blue, a pocket square with a paisley pattern that includes shades of blue and gray, along with a pop of a third color like burnt orange, shows personality and style.

Mastering Patterns: From Subtle to Statement

  • Solid: The safest and most versatile option. A solid pocket square provides a clean block of color. Choose a fabric with texture, like linen or tweed, to add interest.

  • Paisley: A classic, sophisticated pattern. A paisley pocket square is perfect for adding a touch of personality to a solid suit. The key is to ensure the background color of the paisley pattern complements the dominant color of your suit or shirt.

  • Stripes and Dots: These patterns are best for semi-formal or less traditional weddings. A striped pocket square can echo the lines of a striped shirt without being a direct match. Polka dots, especially smaller ones, are a fun and stylish choice.

  • Floral: Floral patterns can be beautiful for spring and summer weddings. A watercolor floral print in a silk fabric adds a romantic and artistic touch. Be mindful of the scale of the pattern; a larger print can be more casual, while a smaller, more delicate floral is often more formal.

Actionable Example: For a navy suit and a light pink shirt, a pocket square with a subtle navy and pink floral pattern or a solid pink linen square would work well. For a charcoal suit, a pocket square with a burgundy paisley pattern adds a touch of warmth and sophistication.

The Art of the Fold: Shaping Your Style

The way you fold your pocket square is just as important as the fabric and color. The fold should be chosen based on the formality of the event and the fabric of the square.

The Presidential Fold (Square Fold)

  • Description: A simple, horizontal fold that results in a straight line peeking out of the pocket.

  • Fabric: Best for crisp fabrics like linen and cotton.

  • Formality: The most formal fold, perfect for black-tie, corporate, and any serious occasion.

  • How to: Fold the pocket square in half, then in half again to form a square. Fold the bottom up so that a small edge protrudes from the pocket.

The Puff Fold (Cloud Fold)

  • Description: A soft, rounded fold that creates a ‘cloud’ or ‘puff’ of fabric.

  • Fabric: Best for soft, pliable fabrics like silk.

  • Formality: A semi-formal to casual fold that adds a touch of sprezzatura (studied carelessness).

  • How to: Lay the pocket square flat. Pinch the center and pull it upwards, letting the edges drape down. Tuck the points into your pocket, letting the puffed center emerge.

The Crown Fold (Three-Point Fold)

  • Description: A more elaborate fold with three distinct points peeking out of the pocket.

  • Fabric: Best for stiff fabrics like linen and cotton that can hold a sharp crease.

  • Formality: A classic, formal fold that shows a little extra effort.

  • How to: Fold the square in half diagonally to form a triangle. Bring the two points of the base up to meet the top point, creating a diamond. Fold the two side flaps in and tuck it into your pocket.

The Reverse Puff (Reverse Puff Fold)

  • Description: Similar to the puff, but the points of the pocket square are exposed, creating a more dynamic, chaotic look.

  • Fabric: Works best with silk and other flexible fabrics.

  • Formality: An artistic, less traditional fold for more casual or creative weddings.

  • How to: Follow the steps for the puff fold, but instead of tucking the points in, let them hang out.

Actionable Example: For a formal evening wedding, use a white linen pocket square in a Presidential fold. For a summer wedding, a silk pocket square in a puff fold adds a soft, romantic touch.

Dressing the Part: A Guide for Every Role

Your relationship to the wedding dictates the rules you should follow. The groom has more responsibility, while a guest has more freedom.

For the Groom: The Star of the Show

Your pocket square should be meticulously chosen and reflect the overall theme and formality of your wedding. It should complement your tie and buttonhole, creating a cohesive visual statement. A classic white pocket square is always a safe and elegant choice. If you want to introduce color, ensure it’s a tasteful nod to the wedding colors, not a blatant match. Your pocket square should be a personal touch that enhances your look without overshadowing your partner.

Actionable Example: If the wedding colors are navy and dusty rose, a groom could wear a navy suit with a white shirt, a navy tie, and a pocket square with a subtle dusty rose border.

For the Groomsmen: The Uniformed Ensemble

Groomsmen’s pocket squares should be consistent to create a unified and polished look. The safest approach is to have all groomsmen wear the same pocket square. The fabric and fold should be coordinated with the groom’s to ensure a cohesive aesthetic.

  • Method 1: Coordinated, Not Matched: The groomsmen’s pocket squares can be a lighter shade of the groom’s tie or a different pattern in the same color family. For example, if the groom wears a navy paisley tie and a white pocket square, the groomsmen could wear solid navy ties with a pocket square that has a subtle navy stripe.

  • Method 2: The Same: All groomsmen, including the groom, can wear the same white linen pocket square. This is a classic, timeless, and fuss-free approach that always looks good.

Actionable Example: The groom is wearing a charcoal suit with a white shirt and a dark green tie. The groomsmen could wear charcoal suits, white shirts, dark green ties, and all have a white linen pocket square in a Presidential fold.

For the Guest: The Stylish Observer

As a guest, your pocket square is your opportunity to express your personal style. You have the most freedom to play with color, pattern, and texture. However, always be mindful of the dress code. A black-tie event calls for a more formal pocket square, while a semi-formal or cocktail attire wedding allows for more creative choices.

  • Rule of Thumb: Your pocket square should complement a color in your shirt or tie, but not be a direct match. It should never be the most attention-grabbing part of your outfit. A good pocket square enhances your look; a bad one distracts from it.

Actionable Example: A guest at a summer cocktail wedding could wear a light gray suit, a light blue shirt, and a navy knit tie. A pocket square with a floral pattern that includes light blue, navy, and a pop of yellow would be a stylish and appropriate choice.

Pocket Square Faux Pas: What to Avoid

  • Perfectly Matching the Tie: This is the most common and easily avoidable mistake. It looks dated and lacks stylistic creativity.

  • Overly Flashy Fabrics: A pocket square should be an accent, not a spotlight. Avoid overly metallic or neon fabrics that pull too much attention.

  • The Wrong Fold for the Fabric: A silk pocket square in a Presidential fold will look sloppy. A linen square in a puff fold will look stiff and awkward.

  • The Mismatched Formality: Wearing a casual cotton pocket square in a formal setting (e.g., a black-tie event) is a clear sartorial misstep.

  • Overstuffing the Pocket: A pocket square should sit comfortably in the breast pocket without bulging. A few simple folds are always better than a crumpled mess.

Conclusion

Choosing a pocket square for a wedding is a thoughtful process, not an afterthought. It’s about understanding the fundamentals of fabric, color, and fold, and then applying those principles to your specific role and the wedding’s dress code. By treating your pocket square as the final, intentional detail, you transform your suit from an outfit into a statement of personal style. The right pocket square will not only complete your ensemble but also make you feel confident, polished, and ready to celebrate.