How to Use Herringbone to Add a Touch of Vintage Charm

by

A Definitive Guide to Using Herringbone to Add Vintage Charm to Your Wardrobe

Herringbone is more than just a pattern; it’s a sartorial story woven into the fabric of time. With its distinctive V-shaped weaving, resembling the skeleton of a herring fish, it offers a subtle yet sophisticated way to inject a touch of vintage charm into any modern outfit. This guide cuts through the noise to provide you with concrete, actionable strategies for incorporating herringbone into your fashion choices, moving beyond the obvious to create looks that are both timeless and uniquely yours.

The Foundation: Understanding Herringbone’s Vintage Appeal

Before we dive into the ‘how-to,’ it’s crucial to understand why herringbone works so well for a vintage aesthetic. Unlike a loud plaid or a busy floral, herringbone’s appeal lies in its quiet sophistication. It harks back to eras of tailored elegance—the 1920s with their structured wool coats, the 1950s with their tweed jackets, and the 1970s with their academic blazers. Its texture and depth add a layer of complexity that feels both luxurious and lived-in, instantly elevating a simple outfit. The key is to leverage this inherent quality without letting it overwhelm your look.

The Cornerstone: The Herringbone Blazer or Jacket

The herringbone blazer or jacket is the quintessential starting point. It’s the most impactful way to use the pattern and can serve as the centerpiece of your outfit.

1. The Deconstructed Blazer: For a more relaxed, modern vintage vibe, opt for a deconstructed herringbone blazer. This style foregoes the heavy padding and stiff structure of a traditional suit jacket, making it more comfortable and versatile.

  • How to Style:
    • High-Low Contrast: Pair a dark gray or brown herringbone blazer with a simple white T-shirt and dark-wash jeans. The contrast between the formal blazer and the casual T-shirt and jeans creates a dynamic, effortless look. Complete this with a pair of leather loafers or clean white sneakers for a refined casual feel.

    • Layering with Knitwear: Wear the blazer over a thin, fine-gauge merino wool sweater in a complementary color like olive green or deep burgundy. This adds texture and warmth, perfect for a sophisticated fall or winter outfit. Add tailored trousers in a solid color, such as charcoal gray or navy, to anchor the look.

2. The Structured Tweed Jacket: For a more authentic, academic vintage feel, choose a heavier, structured tweed jacket. This piece is a statement in itself and requires a more intentional approach to styling.

  • How to Style:
    • The Professor Look: Pair a brown herringbone tweed jacket with a light blue Oxford button-down shirt, a knit tie, and a pair of dark chinos. This combination is classic and timeless. Add leather brogues to complete the aesthetic.

    • Feminine and Bold: A structured herringbone jacket can be softened by pairing it with a flowy, high-waisted midi skirt in a solid, warm color like camel or cream. Tuck in a simple silk blouse. This mix of structured and soft creates an intriguing, balanced look.

3. The Herringbone Overcoat: An overcoat in a herringbone pattern is a powerful piece that adds a dramatic flair to any cold-weather outfit. It’s a significant investment, so choose a classic color like charcoal, oatmeal, or navy.

  • How to Style:
    • Over a Suit: A herringbone overcoat can be worn over your existing suits to add an extra layer of elegance. Ensure the coat is long enough to cover your suit jacket. The pattern adds subtle interest without clashing with the suit fabric.

    • Casual Winter Layering: Throw the coat over a simple black turtleneck sweater and black trousers. The clean lines of the base outfit allow the herringbone pattern to truly shine. Add a pair of black Chelsea boots to finish the look.

The Subtlety: Incorporating Herringbone Through Accessories and Smaller Pieces

Not everyone is ready to commit to a full herringbone jacket. The beauty of this pattern is that it works just as effectively in smaller doses, adding a “wink and a nod” of vintage charm without dominating the outfit.

1. The Herringbone Scarf: A herringbone scarf is a highly versatile accessory that can be the perfect finishing touch.

  • How to Style:
    • Color Pop: Use a scarf in a unique color combination, such as blue and white herringbone, to break up a monochrome outfit. A black coat and black trousers can be instantly brightened and given character with this simple addition.

    • Texture and Warmth: A thick woolen herringbone scarf adds a cozy, tactile quality to a simple peacoat or leather jacket. Drape it over your shoulders or tie it in a simple knot to draw attention upward.

2. The Herringbone Vest (Waistcoat): A waistcoat in herringbone can be worn as part of a three-piece suit or as a standalone piece.

  • How to Style:
    • Standalone Piece: For a dandyish, smart-casual look, wear a herringbone vest over a crisp dress shirt with the sleeves rolled up. Pair it with dark, well-fitting chinos and boots. This is a perfect look for a creative profession or a stylish weekend outing.

    • Layering with a Cardigan: Instead of a blazer, wear the vest over a fine-gauge cardigan. This unconventional layering creates a refined, intellectual look that is both comfortable and stylish.

3. Herringbone Trousers: Herringbone trousers are a bold choice that can serve as the foundation of an entire outfit.

  • How to Style:
    • The Modern Classic: Pair a pair of high-waisted, wide-leg herringbone trousers with a simple, solid-colored top—a turtleneck, a silk blouse, or a fitted T-shirt. The trousers become the star of the show, and the simple top keeps the look balanced and modern. Finish with a belt and heeled boots.

    • Textural Play: Combine the herringbone trousers with a ribbed knit sweater in a complementary neutral color. The mix of two different textures creates visual interest without being overwhelming.

The Strategic Placement: Herringbone as a Supporting Player

Sometimes, herringbone doesn’t need to be the main event. It can be a powerful supporting player, adding a vintage undertone to an otherwise contemporary outfit.

1. The Herringbone Hat: A herringbone flat cap or newsboy cap is the ultimate vintage accessory.

  • How to Style:
    • The Casual Finisher: Wear a herringbone flat cap with a simple denim jacket, a T-shirt, and corduroy pants. It’s an easy way to add a bit of personality and historical context to a simple, everyday outfit.

    • Paired with a Coat: A herringbone cap and a pea coat or overcoat is a classic combination. The cap echoes the tailored, structured feel of the coat, creating a cohesive, well-thought-out look.

2. The Herringbone Bag: A herringbone pattern can be found on briefcases, tote bags, and clutch purses.

  • How to Style:
    • Workwear with a Twist: Carry a herringbone briefcase with a modern, slim-fit suit. The bag adds a traditional, intellectual touch that distinguishes your look from everyone else in the office.

    • Evening Sophistication: A small herringbone clutch can be a stunning accent piece for a simple black dress. It provides texture and a hint of classic glamour without resorting to sparkles or loud colors.

3. Herringbone Footwear: Loafers, brogues, and even sneakers can feature a herringbone fabric detail.

  • How to Style:
    • Loafers with Chinos: A pair of leather loafers with a herringbone fabric vamp is an excellent way to subtly add texture to a smart-casual outfit. Pair them with cuffed chinos and a button-down shirt.

    • Casual Sneakers: Sneakers with a herringbone detail can be worn with jeans and a simple sweater. It’s a modern take on a classic pattern, perfect for someone who wants to blend vintage aesthetics with contemporary comfort.

The Practical Application: Building a Cohesive Herringbone Wardrobe

Building a wardrobe around herringbone is about strategic choices and thoughtful combinations. Here’s a step-by-step approach.

Step 1: Start with a Single Key Piece. Do not buy a herringbone jacket, trousers, and waistcoat all at once. Begin with the piece that most appeals to your personal style—a blazer for daily wear, an overcoat for cold weather, or a vest for a special occasion.

Step 2: Anchor with Neutrals. Herringbone patterns, especially in traditional colors like gray, brown, and navy, work best with a foundation of solid, neutral colors. Stock your wardrobe with high-quality basics: white and black T-shirts, solid-colored sweaters, and well-fitting trousers in colors like charcoal, navy, and khaki.

Step 3: Introduce Texture. Once you have your core herringbone piece and a neutral foundation, introduce other textures to create depth. Think about pairing a tweed herringbone jacket with a fine-gauge knit sweater or a wool scarf. Contrasting textures like a smooth silk blouse or a rough denim pair of jeans will make the herringbone stand out.

Step 4: Mind the Fit. The vintage charm of herringbone comes from its association with tailored elegance. Ensure every piece fits impeccably. A poorly fitting blazer or a pair of baggy trousers will undermine the entire look. If necessary, invest in a tailor to get the perfect fit.

Step 5: Don’t Overdo It. The power of herringbone lies in its subtle nature. Do not wear more than one herringbone piece at a time. The pattern is a statement, and wearing multiple pieces can make you look like you’re wearing a costume rather than a carefully curated outfit.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Herringbone Styling

Once you are comfortable with the fundamentals, you can experiment with more advanced styling techniques.

1. Mixing Patterns (Carefully): While it’s generally advised to stick to one statement pattern, a subtle herringbone can be combined with other patterns under specific conditions.

  • The Rule of Scale: Pair a micro-herringbone pattern with a much larger-scale pattern, like a wide-striped shirt. The contrast in scale prevents the patterns from competing with each other.

  • The Rule of Color: Ensure one pattern is in a neutral color and the other is a subtle accent. For example, a black and white herringbone jacket can be worn over a very light blue and white pinstripe shirt.

2. The Unexpected Fabric: Herringbone is not limited to wool and tweed. Look for herringbone patterns in other materials like cotton, linen, or even silk.

  • Linen Herringbone: A linen herringbone jacket is a fantastic option for warm weather. It offers the classic pattern with a light, breathable feel, perfect for a summer wedding or a garden party.

  • Cotton Herringbone: Cotton herringbone shirts or trousers are a more casual, comfortable alternative that still carries that vintage feel.

3. Borrowing from Other Eras: Herringbone isn’t exclusive to one time period. Borrowing elements from different eras can create a unique, hybrid style.

  • 1940s Film Noir: A dark herringbone trench coat, a fedora, and a crisp white shirt can evoke the mystery and drama of the 1940s.

  • 1970s Bohemian: A relaxed-fit herringbone blazer, flared jeans, and a paisley scarf can be styled to create a sophisticated, slightly bohemian look reminiscent of the 1970s.

Conclusion

Herringbone’s strength lies in its quiet power. It doesn’t scream for attention; it commands it. By strategically incorporating this timeless pattern into your wardrobe, you can effortlessly add a layer of vintage charm and sophisticated texture that sets your style apart. Whether it’s a bold overcoat, a subtle scarf, or a classic blazer, the key is to choose your piece with intention, style it with complementary staples, and always prioritize a perfect fit. With these actionable strategies, you’re not just wearing a pattern; you’re weaving a story into your personal style, one that speaks of elegance, history, and a modern sensibility.