Choosing the Right Buttons for Your Pea Coat: Small Details, Big Impact
The pea coat is a timeless classic, a stalwart of winter wardrobes for generations. Its enduring appeal lies in its rugged functionality and clean, naval-inspired aesthetic. But while the silhouette remains a constant, the devil—and the distinction—is in the details. Of all the components that make a pea coat what it is, the buttons are arguably the most crucial. They are the punctuation on a sartorial sentence, a small detail with a disproportionately large impact on the coat’s overall character, quality, and longevity.
This is not a decision to be taken lightly. The right buttons can elevate a simple coat to a statement piece, signaling an appreciation for quality and craftsmanship. The wrong ones, however, can make a beautiful garment look cheap, unbalanced, or simply ‘off.’ This in-depth guide will walk you through the process of choosing the perfect buttons for your pea coat, whether you’re replacing old ones, customizing a new purchase, or building one from scratch. We’ll move beyond the generic advice and dive into the practical, actionable details that make all the difference.
Understanding the Anatomy of a Pea Coat Button
Before you can choose, you must first understand. A pea coat button is more than just a fastener; it’s a design element. They are typically large, round, and often feature a specific design. The classic military-style button is a prime example, often embossed with an anchor or a similar motif. But modern interpretations have introduced a world of variation in material, finish, and design.
The standard pea coat uses a double-breasted closure, meaning you’ll have two vertical rows of buttons. A traditional pea coat has ten buttons—five on each side—with four of these (two on each side) being functional closures and the others serving a decorative purpose on the facing lapel. The sheer number of buttons makes their collective appearance paramount. A small misstep in material or size will be magnified ten times over.
The Foundation: Material Matters
The material of your buttons is the single most important factor. It dictates the weight, feel, durability, and overall aesthetic. Think of it as the foundational layer upon which all other decisions are built.
1. Horn Buttons: The Premium Choice
Horn buttons, typically made from buffalo or ox horn, are the gold standard for high-end outerwear. Their natural variations in color and texture make each button unique, providing a subtle depth that no synthetic material can replicate.
- Pros: Exceptionally durable, visually rich, and possesses a substantial weight that feels luxurious. They are a sign of a quality garment and develop a beautiful patina over time.
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Cons: Can be more expensive and require careful sourcing to ensure authenticity.
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Actionable Advice: Opt for genuine horn buttons with a matte or semi-gloss finish. Darker shades like black or charcoal are classic, but lighter, marbled tones can offer a more unique, contemporary look. Always check for a smooth, well-finished edge to prevent snagging on fabric.
2. Corozo Buttons: The Sustainable, Stylish Alternative
Corozo, often referred to as ‘vegetable ivory,’ is a natural, sustainable material derived from the nut of the Tagua palm tree. It has a distinctive grain pattern that looks similar to wood but is far more durable.
- Pros: Eco-friendly, highly durable, and takes dye exceptionally well, allowing for a vast range of colors. Its fine grain gives it a sophisticated, tactile quality.
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Cons: Can be slightly lighter in weight than horn, which some may perceive as less substantial.
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Actionable Advice: Corozo buttons are excellent for a modern, minimalist pea coat. Look for a flat, clean finish in a rich color like navy, charcoal, or even a deep forest green to complement the coat’s color without overpowering it.
3. Metal Buttons: The Classic Military Aesthetic
Metal buttons are synonymous with the traditional naval pea coat. They are typically stamped brass or other alloys, often featuring an anchor, a ship’s wheel, or an insignia.
- Pros: Incredibly durable, provides a strong military aesthetic, and offers a satisfying heft. The designs can add a lot of character and history to the coat.
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Cons: Can be noisy, may tarnish over time if not properly cared for, and a shiny finish can look cheap if not of high quality.
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Actionable Advice: If you’re going for a metal button, choose a matte or antiqued brass finish over a bright, shiny one. This prevents a costume-like appearance. Ensure the design is clean and well-defined, not a blurry, cheap stamping. Make sure the shank (the loop on the back) is sturdy and not prone to bending.
4. Urea and Polyester Buttons: The Everyday Workhorse
These synthetic buttons are the most common and affordable option. Urea is a type of thermosetting plastic, known for its smooth finish and high durability. Polyester is also very common.
- Pros: Inexpensive, available in a huge range of colors and styles, and resistant to chipping and cracking.
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Cons: Lack the visual depth and tactile quality of natural materials. They can sometimes look and feel generic or cheap.
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Actionable Advice: If budget is a concern, opt for a high-quality urea button with a matte or satin finish. Steer clear of shiny plastic buttons, which often have a tell-tale cheapness to them. Look for a button with some weight to it, as a flimsy, light button will detract from the coat’s quality.
Size and Proportion: The Golden Ratio
The size of your buttons is a critical, yet often overlooked, detail. A button that is too large will look clumsy and oversized, while one that is too small will appear insignificant and out of place. The right size creates a harmonious balance with the coat’s lapels, collar, and overall bulk.
- Standard Size: For a classic men’s pea coat, a button diameter between 1.25 inches (32mm) and 1.5 inches (38mm) is standard.
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Actionable Advice: A quick rule of thumb: the button should be wide enough to be easily handled, but not so wide that it dominates the lapel it sits on. Take a single button and hold it up to the coat. A button that sits within the width of the lapel, without touching the edges, is likely the correct size.
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Example: A petite, slender frame might benefit from a button on the smaller end of the spectrum (1.25-1.3 inches), while a larger, broad-shouldered individual can confidently wear a button up to 1.5 inches without it looking out of proportion. Never go over 1.5 inches; it will look like you’ve accidentally put on clown buttons.
Color and Finish: The Finishing Touch
Once you’ve chosen the material and size, you need to consider the color and finish. This is where you can either reinforce the coat’s classic aesthetic or introduce a unique point of view.
- Tonal Harmony: Matching the button color to the coat’s color creates a seamless, sophisticated look. A deep navy coat with dark navy corozo buttons is a perfect example. This choice is understated and elegant.
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Subtle Contrast: A slightly contrasting button can add visual interest without being loud. A black pea coat with charcoal gray horn buttons provides a subtle, refined contrast.
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Bold Contrast: This is for the daring. A classic navy pea coat with brass buttons is the most common example of this. It’s a historical choice, but a contemporary example might be a gray coat with a rich, burgundy corozo button.
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Actionable Advice: For a safe and elegant choice, stick with tonal harmony or subtle contrast. If you’re going for bold contrast, ensure the button is a high-quality material and finish to prevent it from looking cheap or out of place. A shiny, bright plastic button in a contrasting color is a surefire way to ruin a good coat.
Shank vs. Sew-Through: Understanding the Attachment
Buttons for outerwear are typically either sew-through or shank buttons. The choice impacts both aesthetics and functionality.
- Sew-Through Buttons: These have two or four holes in the face of the button, through which thread is passed to attach it to the fabric. They lie flatter against the coat.
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Shank Buttons: These have a loop or a raised protrusion on the back through which the thread is passed. The shank creates a small space between the button and the fabric, which makes them easier to button and unbutton, especially with thick outerwear material.
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Actionable Advice: For a pea coat, a shank button is the superior choice. The thick wool of the coat requires that extra space to be buttoned with ease. It also creates a cleaner, more tailored look by keeping the button from pulling on the fabric. If you’re replacing buttons, always go for a shank button. Make sure the shank is robust and securely attached.
The Anchor Motif: A Classic for a Reason
The anchor button is a hallmark of the traditional pea coat. It’s a nod to its naval origins and a classic choice that remains in style. But even here, there are choices to be made.
- Embossed vs. Stamped: A high-quality button will have a cleanly embossed anchor, with defined lines and a sense of depth. A cheaper button will have a poorly stamped or printed design that looks flat and lacks detail.
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Actionable Advice: If you’re going for the anchor, choose a metal button with a matte or antiqued finish. Ensure the anchor design is crisp and sharp. A poorly detailed anchor is a dead giveaway of a cheap button.
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Example: A beautiful matte brass button with a detailed, slightly raised anchor design. The patina of the antiqued brass gives it a timeless, authentic feel, as if it has been on a ship at sea.
Practical Steps for Choosing Your Buttons
Now that you understand the principles, here is a step-by-step, actionable plan to choose the perfect buttons for your pea coat.
- Assess Your Coat: Examine the coat’s material, color, and overall style. Is it a traditional, heavy wool coat or a modern, streamlined blend? Is the color a classic navy or a more contemporary camel? This will guide your material and color choices.
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Define Your Aesthetic: Do you want to lean into the classic naval look, or do you want a more minimalist, modern feel? The answer will dictate whether you choose metal buttons with an anchor, or sleek, understated corozo buttons.
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Measure for Size: Carefully measure the width of your existing buttons. If you don’t have any, measure the buttonholes. The button should be slightly larger than the buttonhole, but not so large that it strains the fabric. A good starting point is 1.25 inches.
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Source High-Quality Buttons: Go to reputable button suppliers, either online or in person. Look for specialty stores that carry genuine horn, corozo, or high-quality metal buttons. Avoid generic craft stores. Read reviews and ask for samples if possible.
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Test Before You Commit: If you are buying a set of ten buttons, it’s a significant investment. Buy a single button first and hold it up to your coat. See how it looks in different lighting. Feel its weight and texture. Check if the color complements the coat’s fabric. This small step can prevent a costly mistake.
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Consider the Sewing Process: When you receive your buttons, inspect them all for consistency. Ensure all the shanks are intact and robust. It’s often a good idea to have a professional tailor sew them on to ensure they are attached securely and consistently.
The Big Picture: Why This Matters
This isn’t just about buttons; it’s about respect for your clothing and an appreciation for quality. A pea coat is an investment. The right buttons are the final touch that honors that investment. They are the difference between a coat that looks good and a coat that feels and is high quality.
Think of it this way: a car with a beautiful paint job but cheap, plastic hubcaps is a compromise. A well-tailored suit with a cheap, ill-fitting tie is a missed opportunity. A pea coat is no different. The buttons are the hubcaps, the tie. They can be a source of pride, or a point of weakness. By taking the time to choose them with care, you are not just customizing your coat, you are perfecting it. You are elevating a piece of clothing from a functional garment to a personal statement of style and discernment. The small detail of the button makes a very big impact indeed.