A Gentleman’s Guide to Mastering Bespoke Pocket Styles
In the world of bespoke tailoring, the details are the difference between a good suit and a great one. While fabrics, fit, and lapels often steal the spotlight, the seemingly minor element of a pocket can dramatically alter a garment’s aesthetic, function, and personality. For the discerning individual, understanding these nuances isn’t just about fashion; it’s about making a statement of knowledge and personal style. This guide will take you beyond the surface, providing a practical, actionable framework for mastering bespoke pocket styles and ensuring your next tailored piece is an absolute masterpiece.
The Foundation: Understanding the “Why” Behind Pocket Choice
Before we dissect the “how,” it’s crucial to grasp the fundamental reasons behind pocket selection. Pockets aren’t just for holding things; they serve as architectural features that can:
- Alter Proportions: The placement and angle of a pocket can lengthen a torso, narrow a waist, or broaden shoulders.
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Define Formality: A certain pocket style signals the formality of a garment, from the most rigid black-tie ensemble to a relaxed sport coat.
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Express Personality: The choice reflects an individual’s taste, from the traditionalist to the avant-garde.
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Enhance Functionality: Pockets are designed for specific uses, whether it’s holding a ticket, a pen, or simply providing a place for one’s hands.
With this foundational understanding, you can begin to see pockets not as an afterthought, but as a critical design element.
The Major Player: Hacking vs. Flap vs. Jetted Pockets
The vast majority of suit jackets and blazers will feature one of these three primary pocket styles. Your choice here sets the entire tone for the garment.
1. The Flap Pocket (The Standard Bearer)
The flap pocket is the most common and versatile option. It features a flap of fabric that covers the pocket opening, providing a clean, traditional look.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: The flap is designed to keep rain and debris out of the pocket, making it a practical choice for all-purpose wear.
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Formality: A flap pocket is a safe, middle-of-the-road choice. It’s perfectly appropriate for business suits, blazers, and sport coats. You can wear it with or without the flap tucked in, altering its formality on the fly (tucked in is slightly more formal).
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Proportional Impact: When worn with the flap out, it adds a horizontal line across the hips, which can make a narrow-hipped individual appear more balanced. For someone with a wider midsection, a flap pocket can be less flattering as it draws attention to that area.
Concrete Example: For a new, everyday business suit in navy or charcoal, a straight flap pocket is the ideal starting point. It’s a classic, safe, and professional choice that will never look out of place.
2. The Hacking Pocket (The Angled Advantage)
The hacking pocket is a variant of the flap pocket, distinguished by its slanted angle, which points towards the back of the jacket. The name originates from its use on hacking jackets, worn for horseback riding, where the angle made accessing the pocket easier while in the saddle.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: The slant is purely aesthetic for modern use. While its historical function is a great story, its current purpose is to alter the jacket’s silhouette.
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Formality: Hacking pockets are inherently less formal than straight flap pockets. They inject a touch of rakish charm and are traditionally seen on sport coats, tweed jackets, and country wear. They are generally not appropriate for the most formal business suits or black-tie attire.
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Proportional Impact: The key advantage of a hacking pocket is its slimming effect. The diagonal line draws the eye upward and inward, creating the illusion of a narrower waist and a more athletic V-shape torso. It’s an excellent choice for a gentleman looking to streamline his silhouette.
Concrete Example: When commissioning a tweed sport coat for a weekend away or a country wedding, a hacking pocket is a non-negotiable detail. It provides a heritage-rich, slightly rugged feel that perfectly complements the rustic fabric and occasion.
3. The Jetted Pocket (The Minimalist’s Choice)
The jetted pocket, also known as a besom pocket, is the most formal and minimalist option. It has no flap and only a thin “jetting” or welt of fabric framing the pocket opening.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: The design is sleek and unobtrusive, meant to maintain a clean, unbroken line on the front of the jacket. It’s the least functional for keeping things secure.
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Formality: This is the pocket of choice for formal wear. Tuxedos and morning coats almost exclusively feature jetted pockets. They are also appropriate for very formal business suits, but they are a less common choice for everyday wear as they lack the casual versatility of flap pockets.
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Proportional Impact: Because it adds no visual bulk or lines to the hip area, the jetted pocket creates the cleanest, most streamlined silhouette possible. It’s the best option for maintaining a smooth line and minimizing any focus on the midsection.
Concrete Example: A bespoke tuxedo for a black-tie event or a formal wedding must have jetted pockets. Anything else would be a sartorial error. For a high-powered executive who needs a suit for a specific, very formal presentation, a jetted pocket can signal an air of serious, no-nonsense professionalism.
The Subtleties: From Ticket Pockets to Patch Pockets
Once you’ve chosen your primary pocket style, you can further refine the jacket’s character with these specialized options.
1. The Ticket Pocket (The Gentleman’s Detail)
A ticket pocket is a small, third pocket, typically a flap pocket, located above the right-hand main pocket. Its name comes from its original use for holding train or theater tickets.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: It’s a convenient, small space for items you need quick access to, like a business card or a key card.
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Formality: The ticket pocket adds a touch of classic, English country charm. It is most commonly found on hacking jackets and sport coats, though it is sometimes seen on more traditional business suits. It always adds a slightly more casual, or at least less formal, feel to the garment.
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Proportional Impact: It adds another horizontal line to the jacket front, which can be busy on a shorter torso. However, on a taller man, it can break up the length of the jacket, providing a pleasing sense of proportion. For a gentleman looking to create a more robust appearance, the ticket pocket can add visual weight to the chest and waist area.
Concrete Example: You’re having a classic tweed blazer made. Adding a ticket pocket will not only be a practical detail for your Oyster card or business cards but will also cement the jacket’s traditional, heritage-inspired feel. For a bespoke suit, a ticket pocket with a hacking slant will create a unified, dynamic look.
2. The Patch Pocket (The Relaxed Alternative)
The patch pocket is a pocket that is “patched” onto the outside of the jacket rather than being set into the lining. It’s the least formal option available.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: The patch pocket is incredibly practical and robust. It’s easy to access and its construction is simple and durable.
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Formality: This pocket belongs squarely in the realm of casual wear. You will find it on safari jackets, unstructured blazers, and summer suits made from fabrics like linen or cotton. It is never appropriate for formal business wear or tuxedos.
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Proportional Impact: Patch pockets add a significant amount of visual bulk to the hips. They can be a great way to add volume to a very slim physique. However, for a gentleman looking to minimize his midsection, they are best avoided.
Concrete Example: For a linen suit you’re commissioning for a summer vacation or a casual outdoor event, patch pockets are the only choice. They will complement the relaxed, breathable nature of the fabric and the unstructured fit, creating a perfect balance of comfort and style.
The Final Layers: Angled vs. Straight & The Pocket Square
The pocket’s angle and the presence of a breast pocket are the final elements to consider.
1. Straight vs. Angled Pockets
While hacking pockets are a specific type of angled pocket, you can also request a slight angle on a standard flap pocket.
How to Understand It:
- Straight Pockets: The most traditional and formal option. They provide a clean, horizontal line that is classic and timeless. Best for suits where you want a traditional, powerful, and serious look.
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Angled Pockets: The angled pocket, even a subtle one, adds a more dynamic and modern feel. It’s a way to introduce a touch of flair and break the monotony of a very conservative suit. As with the hacking pocket, a slight angle can also have a subtle slimming effect.
Concrete Example: For a bespoke suit you plan to wear to business meetings where you want to project authority, a straight flap pocket is the classic choice. For a more fashion-forward suit for creative industries or an evening event, a slightly angled flap pocket will show a bit more personality without being overtly casual.
2. The Breast Pocket (The Essential Pocket Square Holder)
The breast pocket is a small, jetted pocket on the upper left side of the jacket. It is almost always a jetted pocket.
How to Understand It:
- Functionality: Its sole purpose is to hold a pocket square. It is not for pens, phones, or anything else. A gentleman with a bulge in his breast pocket is making a serious error.
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Formality: Every suit, blazer, and sport coat should have a breast pocket. It is a non-negotiable detail.
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Proportional Impact: A well-placed pocket square in a breast pocket draws the eye upward, away from the midsection, and towards the face. It’s a powerful tool for framing a man’s best features.
Concrete Example: When you get your suit, you must also invest in a quality pocket square. A simple, white linen square is the most versatile option. For a more creative look, you can branch out into silk or patterned squares, but the rule remains: the breast pocket is for the pocket square and nothing else.
Putting It All Together: A Strategic Approach to Pocket Design
Now that you have a comprehensive understanding of the options, here is a practical, step-by-step approach to designing the perfect pockets for your bespoke garment.
Step 1: Define the Garment’s Purpose & Formality
- Tuxedo or Formal Wear: The choice is simple and rigid. Jetted pockets on the waist, jetted breast pocket. No ticket pocket.
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Business Suit: This requires a decision. For a traditional, authoritative look, opt for straight flap pockets. For a slightly more modern, slimming effect, choose subtly angled flap pockets. A ticket pocket is an optional, character-rich addition.
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Sport Coat or Casual Blazer: This is where you can have fun. Hacking pockets are an excellent choice. Patch pockets are perfect for unstructured and summer styles. A ticket pocket is almost expected on a tweed or wool sport coat.
Step 2: Consider Your Body Proportions
- For a Slender Physique: Use patch pockets to add volume and visual weight.
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For a Wider Midsection: Use jetted or hacking pockets to create a cleaner, more streamlined silhouette. Avoid patch pockets.
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For a Taller Frame: A ticket pocket can break up the length of the jacket, creating a more balanced look.
Step 3: Communicate with Your Tailor
Don’t just say “I want flap pockets.” Be specific. Use the language you’ve learned here. For example:
- “I’d like a classic, single-breasted business suit with straight flap pockets. A ticket pocket would be a great detail to add some character.”
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“For this unstructured summer blazer, I think a three-button roll with patch pockets would be the perfect casual look.”
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“I’m commissioning a hacking jacket and want to ensure the slant of the pockets is steep enough to create a strong V-shape.”
By speaking this language, you demonstrate your expertise and ensure your tailor understands exactly what you want, leading to a truly personalized and impeccable garment. This level of detail-oriented communication is the hallmark of a successful bespoke experience.
Conclusion
The pocket on a bespoke jacket is more than just a place to put your keys; it’s a silent communicator of style, purpose, and personal taste. By moving beyond a superficial understanding and grasping the concrete functions, proportional impacts, and formal implications of each pocket style, you empower yourself to make informed decisions that result in a truly exceptional garment. The difference between a good suit and a great one often comes down to these subtle, thoughtful choices. With this guide, you now possess the knowledge to elevate your sartorial game from observer to masterful creator.