Beyond the Basic Pin: A Guide to Creative Lapel Accessorizing
The lapel, that small fold of fabric on a jacket or blazer, is often overlooked. We see a simple buttonhole and think of a single, solitary flower or a company logo pin. But in the world of personal style, the lapel is a canvas, a blank slate waiting for a touch of creativity. Moving beyond the traditional and into the realm of the unique, accessorizing your lapel is a subtle yet powerful way to express your individuality, elevate a simple outfit, and transform a forgotten detail into a focal point. This guide is for those who dare to go beyond the basic, offering a definitive, actionable roadmap to crafting a lapel style that is both personal and polished.
The Foundation: Choosing Your Canvas and Tools
Before we delve into the creative accessorization, let’s talk about the basics. The type of lapel you have will influence your choices. A narrow, notch lapel on a slim-fit blazer offers a different aesthetic than a wide, peak lapel on a double-breasted suit. The fabric of the jacket is also a factor. A casual denim jacket can handle a different type of accessory than a formal wool suit.
Know Your Lapel Types:
- Notch Lapel: The most common type, characterized by a “notch” where the collar and lapel meet. Versatile and great for everyday wear.
-
Peak Lapel: Points upward towards the shoulders. More formal and often found on double-breasted jackets or tuxedos.
-
Shawl Lapel: A rounded, continuous lapel without a notch. Exclusively for formal wear like tuxedos.
-
Clover Lapel: A rounded notch lapel, a stylish and unique option for a modern look.
Your tools are just as important as your canvas. A good lapel accessorizing kit should include:
- A Variety of Pins and Brooches: Not just the standard, but ones with different closures (locking, hinged, etc.).
-
Thread and Needle: For a more permanent attachment or for securing a loose element.
-
Small, Sharp Scissors: For trimming threads or manipulating fabrics.
-
A Magnifying Glass: For working with small, intricate details.
-
Lapel Chains and Bars: Specific hardware designed for the lapel.
Strategic Placement: The Art of the Asymmetrical and Layered Look
The most common mistake is a singular, centered accessory. While a simple pin in the buttonhole is a classic, it’s not the only option. Think of your lapel as a space to be curated, not just filled.
The Buttonhole is Just the Beginning: The buttonhole itself is the perfect starting point for a lapel pin, but what about the space above and below it? A series of small, coordinating pins placed in a diagonal line, for instance, can create a sense of movement and visual interest.
The Power of Three: An odd number of accessories is often more visually appealing than an even number. Try grouping three small, but related, items together. For example, a small brass bee pin, a tiny enameled flower, and a miniature key. The asymmetrical grouping feels more dynamic and less rigid than a single, centered piece.
Layering and Stacking: Don’t be afraid to stack items. A lapel chain, for instance, can be draped across the lapel, with a pin attached at one end. A vintage brooch can be worn over a smaller, simpler pin, creating a rich, multi-dimensional look. The key to successful layering is to vary the textures and materials. A smooth enamel pin under a textured brass brooch, for example, prevents the look from becoming too heavy or cluttered.
Concrete Examples:
- For a Creative Professional: A small, silver compass pin in the buttonhole, with a vintage skeleton key pin placed an inch below it. This creates a subtle narrative of exploration and discovery.
-
For a Formal Event: A single, elegant pearl brooch placed high on the lapel, just below the collar’s seam. This draws the eye upward and elongates the neck.
-
For a Casual Weekend: Two or three enamel pins with a similar theme (e.g., retro video game characters) clustered on the wider part of the lapel, away from the buttonhole.
Beyond the Pin: A Deep Dive into Alternative Accessories
Pins and brooches are the most common, but they are by no means the only option. Thinking outside the box is where a truly unique style is born.
Lapel Chains and Bars
These accessories connect the two lapels of your jacket or are draped across a single lapel. They add a sophisticated, old-world charm and are perfect for a classic, tailored look.
Lapel Bars: These are simple metal bars that slide horizontally across the buttonhole. They are a minimalist alternative to a pin and can be used to anchor a flower or a small ribbon.
Lapel Chains: These come in two primary forms. The first is a chain that connects a pin or button on one lapel to the other. The second, more common, style is a single chain draped from the buttonhole of a lapel down to a pocket or another point on the jacket.
How to Style:
- The Double-Lapel Chain: For a vintage, dapper look, attach a chain to a small button or pin on each lapel. This works best with double-breasted suits or jackets with a more structured feel.
-
The Pocket Watch Chain: Drape a thin, elegant chain from your buttonhole down to a breast pocket, where a pocket watch can be tucked away. This adds a functional, historical element to your outfit.
-
The Solo Drape: Attach a lapel chain to a pin or a small button and let it drape naturally across the lapel. This works best with chains that have a bit of weight to them.
The Return of the Boutonnière (with a Twist)
The traditional boutonnière is a single flower. It’s a classic for a reason, but we can make it more unique.
Dried and Preserved Flowers: Instead of a fresh rose, try a boutonnière made of dried lavender, baby’s breath, or a single preserved feather. These are more durable, less common, and offer a rustic, artisanal feel.
Fabric and Felt Flowers: For a more playful or whimsical touch, consider a handmade felt flower. These come in a huge variety of colors and styles and are a great way to add a pop of color that won’t wilt.
Miniature Sculptures and Objects: What if your “flower” is not a flower at all? A small, hand-carved wooden bird, a miniature glass mushroom, or a tiny origami crane can be mounted on a pin and worn in the buttonhole. These are conversation starters and a direct reflection of your personality.
Fabric and Thread-Based Embellishments
Your lapel is fabric, so why not use fabric to accessorize it?
Embroidered Patches: Small, embroidered patches can be temporarily pinned or more permanently stitched to the lapel. Look for unique, iron-on patches and secure them with a few stitches to ensure they don’t fall off.
Ribbons and Tassels: A small, elegant ribbon tied in a neat bow in the buttonhole adds a textural element. A miniature tassel or a handmade beaded loop can be attached to a pin and worn for a bohemian or artisanal feel.
Contrasting Thread: For a more subtle, architectural detail, consider adding a few stitches of a contrasting colored thread in a small, geometric pattern on the lapel itself. This is a detail for the true connoisseur of style, noticeable up close but not overwhelming.
Thematic Groupings: Building a Narrative on Your Lapel
A random assortment of accessories can look chaotic. The magic of a well-accessorized lapel is that it tells a story.
Thematic Cohesion: Choose a theme and stick with it. This doesn’t mean everything has to be the same, but the items should have a shared narrative or aesthetic.
Examples of Thematic Groupings:
- The “Wanderlust” Theme: A small airplane pin, a globe charm, and a tiny compass.
-
The “Artist’s Palette” Theme: A paintbrush pin, a tiny splotch of enamel “paint,” and a miniature palette charm.
-
The “Nautical” Theme: A small anchor, a brass rope knot pin, and a miniature seashell.
Material Cohesion: Even if the theme is loose, the materials can tie everything together. Grouping all-gold items, for instance, or all-wooden pins, creates a unified, intentional look.
The Do’s and Don’ts of Lapel Accessorizing
To avoid a fashion faux pas, follow these simple guidelines.
Do:
- Experiment with placement. Don’t be confined to the buttonhole.
-
Mix textures and materials.
-
Use accessories to tell a story.
-
Consider the occasion. A themed lapel is great for a creative event, but might be too much for a serious business meeting.
-
Pay attention to scale. Small pins on a large lapel can look lost, while large brooches on a narrow lapel can look overwhelming.
-
Use pins with secure backs. A lost accessory is a sad accessory.
Don’t:
- Overwhelm the lapel. Less is often more.
-
Clash materials and colors unintentionally.
-
Wear a company logo pin and a statement accessory at the same time. Choose one or the other.
-
Forget to consider the rest of your outfit. Your lapel accessories should complement your shirt, tie, and pocket square, not compete with them.
-
Wear a permanent accessory on a temporary jacket. If you’re going to stitch something on, make sure it’s on a jacket you plan to wear for a while.
Creating a Bespoke Lapel: DIY and Customization
For the ultimate in unique style, consider creating your own lapel accessories.
Custom Enamel Pins: There are many services that can turn your own design into a custom enamel pin. This is an incredible way to have a truly personal accessory.
Repurposing Vintage Jewelry: A great way to find unique lapel accessories is to look at vintage stores. Old earrings, brooches, or even single cufflinks can be repurposed as lapel pins. A single, elegant vintage earring, for example, can be an incredible statement piece. Simply remove the earring back and replace it with a secure pin back.
Handmade Sculptures: If you have a knack for crafting, a miniature sculpture made of clay, wood, or even metal can be attached to a pin back. This is an unparalleled way to wear a piece of your own art.
The Finishing Touch: Securing Your Accessories
A well-placed accessory is pointless if it falls off.
Pin Backs: The most common are the simple butterfly clutches, but these can be loose. Consider upgrading to a locking pin back or a screw-on back for a more secure hold.
Brooch Clasps: Make sure the hinge and the clasp are in good working order. A vintage brooch might have a looser clasp that needs to be tightened with a pair of pliers.
Stitching: For heavier accessories, or for items you want to wear more permanently, a few stitches can be the most secure option. Use a thin, strong thread that matches the color of your lapel.
Conclusion: Your Lapel, Your Story
The lapel is not just a part of your jacket; it’s an opportunity. It’s a small space with a big impact. By moving beyond the generic pin and embracing creative placement, alternative accessories, and thematic storytelling, you transform a simple detail into a powerful expression of your personal style. Accessorizing your lapel is a subtle act of rebellion against the mundane, a way of saying, “I pay attention to the details, and those details are a reflection of who I am.” So, go forth and accessorize. Let your lapel tell a story that is uniquely and beautifully yours.