Dealing with ingrown hairs after dermaplaning can be a frustrating and confusing experience. Many people turn to dermaplaning for a smooth, fuzz-free complexion, only to find themselves facing a new set of skin challenges. This guide is your comprehensive, no-nonsense roadmap to navigating and resolving ingrown hairs. We’ll skip the long-winded science and get straight to the practical, actionable steps you need to take to get your skin back on track.
Immediate Action Plan: Soothe and Prevent
The first 24-48 hours after dermaplaning are critical. Your skin is vulnerable, and improper care during this window is a primary cause of post-procedure issues like ingrown hairs. Think of this as the recovery phase.
Step 1: The Cold Compress
Immediately after dermaplaning, your skin may be slightly red and sensitive. Inflammation is a major contributor to ingrown hairs because it can constrict the hair follicle opening, trapping the hair as it tries to regrow.
- How to do it: Wrap a few ice cubes in a clean, soft cloth or use a gel-filled cold pack. Gently press it against the treated areas for 5-10 minutes. Do not apply ice directly to your skin, as this can cause frostbite.
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Why it works: The cold temperature constricts blood vessels, reducing swelling and redness. This decreases the likelihood of inflammation blocking the hair follicle, giving the new hair a clear path to the surface.
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Example: If your upper lip feels tight and red after dermaplaning, hold a cold compress there for five minutes. This small step can make a significant difference in preventing a cluster of ingrowns.
Step 2: Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate
Post-dermaplaning, your skin’s protective barrier is temporarily compromised. It’s essential to replenish moisture without clogging pores. Clogged pores are a fast track to ingrown hairs.
- How to do it: Use a non-comedogenic, fragrance-free moisturizer. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides. Apply a generous layer immediately after cleansing and patting your skin dry.
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Why it works: Well-hydrated skin is pliable and healthy. When the skin is dry, it can become tight and flakey, creating a physical barrier that can trap growing hairs. Keeping the skin supple ensures the hair can easily penetrate the surface.
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Example: After cleansing your face in the evening, apply a dime-sized amount of a simple hyaluronic acid serum, followed by a moisturizer like a ceramide cream. This two-step hydration process locks in moisture without causing breakouts or irritation.
Step 3: Ditch the Heavy Makeup
This is non-negotiable. For the first 24 hours, avoid applying foundation or any heavy, pore-clogging makeup. Your skin needs to breathe.
- How to do it: Plan your dermaplaning sessions for a day when you can go makeup-free. If you must wear something, opt for a light mineral powder or a tinted moisturizer that is specifically labeled as non-comedogenic.
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Why it works: Makeup, especially foundation, can sit in the newly opened pores and hair follicles. This creates a breeding ground for bacteria and can lead to inflammation and blockages, which are the perfect conditions for ingrown hairs to form.
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Example: If you dermaplane on a Friday evening, plan to skip your full makeup routine on Saturday. A simple brow pencil and a touch of mascara are fine, but keep the face products to a minimum.
The Gentle Exfoliation Strategy: A Game-Changer
Once the immediate post-procedure window has passed (after 48 hours), the focus shifts from soothing to preventative maintenance. The goal is to gently encourage the hair to grow outward, not inward.
Step 1: Incorporate a Chemical Exfoliant
Physical scrubs are too harsh for post-dermaplaned skin and can cause micro-tears and further irritation. Chemical exfoliants, when used correctly, are the superior choice.
- How to do it: Introduce a product containing salicylic acid (BHA) or glycolic acid (AHA) into your routine. Start with a low concentration (e.g., 2% salicylic acid or 5-10% glycolic acid) and use it 2-3 times per week. Apply it with a cotton pad after cleansing and before moisturizing.
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Why it works: Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate deep into the pores to dissolve sebum and dead skin cells, effectively clearing the path for hair growth. Glycolic acid works on the surface to loosen dead skin cells, preventing them from creating a cap over the hair follicle.
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Example: On Tuesday and Friday evenings, after you wash your face, use a salicylic acid toner. Gently swipe it over your face, focusing on areas where you are prone to ingrowns, like the chin or jawline. Wait a few minutes for it to absorb before applying your moisturizer.
Step 2: The Soft-Bristled Brush Method
This is a gentle physical method to be used sparingly and carefully. It should not be done in the immediate post-dermaplaning window.
- How to do it: After a few days, when your skin is no longer sensitive, use a soft, dry-bristled brush (like a baby toothbrush) to gently buff the areas where you see ingrown hairs forming. Use light, circular motions for about 30 seconds. This should be done on dry skin, before cleansing.
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Why it works: The fine bristles help to physically lift the trapped hair out of the skin without causing significant trauma. It’s a targeted, less aggressive alternative to a full-face scrub.
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Example: If you notice a small red bump on your cheek that looks like an ingrown hair, use a clean, soft toothbrush to gently brush the area in small circles. Be careful not to scrub harshly, as this will only worsen the situation.
Step 3: The Warm Compress and Tweezers (for existing ingrowns)
This is for stubborn, visible ingrown hairs and should be a last resort. Do not attempt to dig or poke at the skin.
- How to do it: Take a clean washcloth and soak it in warm water (not scalding hot). Wring out the excess water and hold it against the ingrown hair for 3-5 minutes. This will soften the skin and bring the hair closer to the surface. Then, using sterilized, pointed tweezers, gently grab the visible loop of hair and pull it out.
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Why it works: The warmth and moisture soften the skin, making it easier for the trapped hair to be released. Sterilized, pointed tweezers allow you to grab the hair with precision without damaging the surrounding skin.
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Example: You have a clearly visible ingrown hair on your chin. You apply a warm compress for a few minutes. You can now see the hair loop just under the surface. Using alcohol-sterilized tweezers, you gently pull the hair out. Do not try to extract it if you can’t see the hair; this will cause scarring.
Daily Skincare Protocol: The Long-Term Solution
Preventing ingrown hairs isn’t a one-time fix; it’s about building a consistent, effective skincare routine that supports healthy hair growth.
Step 1: Cleanse with a Gentle, pH-Balanced Cleanser
Harsh cleansers can strip your skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation. This can make the skin tight and more susceptible to trapping hairs.
- How to do it: Use a sulfate-free, pH-balanced facial cleanser twice a day—morning and night. Look for cleansers with soothing ingredients like aloe vera or chamomile.
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Why it works: A gentle cleanser maintains the skin’s natural barrier and moisture balance. Clean skin is less likely to have clogged pores, and a healthy skin barrier is crucial for proper hair growth.
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Example: Instead of a foamy, stripping cleanser, switch to a creamy, hydrating one. In the morning, a quick cleanse is all you need to remove any overnight residue. In the evening, use it to remove the day’s grime and prep your skin for your nighttime routine.
Step 2: Use an Ingrown Hair Serum
For those who are particularly prone to ingrowns, a targeted serum can be a powerful preventative tool.
- How to do it: Look for a serum or lotion specifically formulated for ingrown hairs. These often contain a blend of chemical exfoliants, like salicylic acid and glycolic acid, along with soothing ingredients. Apply a small amount to the problem areas 1-2 times a day.
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Why it works: These products are designed to deliver a concentrated dose of active ingredients directly to the hair follicles. They help to exfoliate, soothe, and reduce the inflammation that contributes to ingrowns.
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Example: If you frequently get ingrown hairs on your jawline after dermaplaning, apply a small amount of an ingrown hair serum to that area every morning after cleansing. This targeted approach helps keep the follicles clear and prevents the hairs from getting trapped.
Step 3: Moisturize with Care
Your moisturizer should be non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores.
- How to do it: After cleansing and applying any serums, apply a moisturizer that is labeled “non-comedogenic.” For oily skin, a gel-based formula works well. For dry skin, a creamier formula is better.
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Why it works: A moisturizer that clogs pores is counterproductive. It can trap dead skin cells and sebum, creating the perfect environment for an ingrown hair to form. A non-comedogenic formula ensures your skin stays hydrated without blocking the follicles.
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Example: If you have oily skin, opt for a lightweight, gel-based moisturizer. If your skin is on the drier side, a ceramide-rich cream will provide the necessary hydration without feeling heavy or greasy.
Mistakes to Avoid: The “Don’ts” of Post-Dermaplaning Care
Knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do. These common mistakes can derail your efforts and make ingrown hairs worse.
Mistake 1: Aggressive Scrubbing
This is the number one mistake people make. Your skin is raw and sensitive after dermaplaning.
- What not to do: Do not use physical scrubs with harsh beads, nuts, or seeds. Do not use loofahs or rough washcloths on your face.
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Why it’s a mistake: Aggressive scrubbing can cause tiny tears in your skin, leading to inflammation and infection. It can also push the hair back into the follicle, making the ingrown hair problem much worse.
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Example: After dermaplaning, you see some flaky skin and think a scrub will help. You reach for your apricot kernel scrub. This is a bad idea. The sharp edges of the kernels can irritate your already sensitive skin and exacerbate the issue.
Mistake 2: Using Scented or Alcohol-Based Products
These products are often irritating and can strip the skin of its natural moisture.
- What not to do: Avoid toners with high alcohol content, fragrances, or essential oils.
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Why it’s a mistake: Fragrances and alcohol are common skin irritants. They can cause redness, dryness, and inflammation, which, as we’ve established, are major causes of ingrown hairs.
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Example: After dermaplaning, you use your usual rose-scented toner. This could be causing your skin to become red and inflamed, leading to the formation of ingrown hairs. Stick to fragrance-free and alcohol-free products.
Mistake 3: Picking and Squeezing
This is a recipe for infection and scarring.
- What not to do: Do not try to squeeze or pick at a red bump or a visible ingrown hair with your fingers.
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Why it’s a mistake: Your hands are full of bacteria. Squeezing can force the hair deeper into the follicle and introduce bacteria, leading to a painful, pus-filled pimple. This can also cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and permanent scarring.
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Example: You notice a small ingrown hair on your cheek. You are tempted to squeeze it. Instead of squeezing, apply a warm compress and let the hair come to the surface on its own. If you must, use a sterile tool as a last resort, but never your fingers.
Mistake 4: Skipping Sunscreen
Sun exposure can worsen inflammation and increase the risk of hyperpigmentation on vulnerable skin.
- What not to do: Do not go outside without a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
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Why it’s a mistake: After dermaplaning, your skin is more susceptible to sun damage. UV rays can increase inflammation, which can make ingrown hairs worse. Sun exposure can also cause the red marks from ingrown hairs to darken, leading to long-lasting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
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Example: Even on a cloudy day, apply a mineral-based SPF 30 or higher to your face. This protects your skin from harmful UV rays and helps it heal properly.
Advanced Strategies: Beyond the Basics
If you have persistent ingrown hairs, it may be time to consider some more advanced, targeted solutions.
Strategy 1: The Topical Retinoid
Retinoids, like tretinoin or adapalene, are powerful tools for managing skin cell turnover.
- How to do it: Consult with a dermatologist to get a prescription for a topical retinoid. Start by applying a pea-sized amount to your face 1-2 times per week at night. Slowly increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
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Why it works: Retinoids accelerate the rate at which your skin sheds dead cells. This prevents the buildup of skin that can trap hair in the follicle. By keeping the skin clear and smooth, retinoids effectively prevent ingrown hairs from forming.
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Example: Your dermatologist prescribes a low-dose tretinoin cream. You start using it two nights a week, and after a few weeks, you notice your skin is smoother and you are getting far fewer ingrown hairs.
Strategy 2: Consider Your Dermaplaning Technique
The technique itself can sometimes be the culprit.
- How to do it: Ensure you are using a sharp, sterile blade. The angle should be around 45 degrees, and the strokes should be short and gentle. Avoid going over the same area multiple times.
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Why it works: A dull blade can pull and tug at the hair and skin, causing irritation and improper hair follicle trimming. Aggressive or incorrect technique can lead to micro-injuries that promote inflammation and ingrown hairs.
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Example: You notice you’re getting ingrowns on your chin. You check your blade and realize it’s dull. You switch to a new, sharper blade and are more mindful of using a light, gentle hand, and the problem subsides.
Strategy 3: The Witch Hazel and Tea Tree Oil Combo
This is a natural, soothing solution for calming existing ingrown hairs.
- How to do it: After cleansing, apply a small amount of witch hazel (a natural astringent) to a cotton pad and dab it on the ingrown hair. Follow up with a tiny drop of diluted tea tree oil.
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Why it works: Witch hazel helps to reduce inflammation and redness. Tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory agent. The combination can soothe the area, reduce swelling, and help the ingrown hair come to a head more quickly.
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Example: You have a painful, red ingrown on your forehead. You apply witch hazel to it in the morning and evening, followed by a drop of tea tree oil. Within a few days, the redness has gone down, and the hair is visible and easy to remove.
Conclusion
Ingrown hairs after dermaplaning are a common but manageable problem. The key is to move beyond reactive fixes and embrace a proactive, consistent approach. By focusing on immediate post-procedure care, incorporating gentle chemical exfoliation, and building a solid, preventative daily routine, you can effectively minimize and eliminate ingrown hairs. Remember, the goal is not just to treat the symptoms but to create a healthy skin environment where these issues are less likely to occur in the first place.