How to Master the Art of Retro Makeup: Classic Looks for Every Era

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A Timeless Journey: The Ultimate Guide to Mastering Retro Makeup

In a world of fleeting trends, the allure of retro makeup remains a constant. It’s a tribute to a bygone era, a bold statement that transcends time. This isn’t just about recreating a look; it’s about understanding the artistry, the techniques, and the attitude that defined each decade. This guide will be your compass, navigating you through the iconic styles of the 1920s to the 1980s, providing you with the practical skills to master them. We’ll strip away the fluff and focus on the actionable steps, ensuring you can confidently recreate these classic looks with modern products and tools.

The Roaring ’20s: The Dawn of Modern Makeup

The 1920s was a decade of liberation, and makeup became a symbol of this newfound freedom. The look was defined by a rejection of the past and an embrace of the dramatic. The key elements are a heavily-lined, down-turned eye and a small, defined “cupid’s bow” lip.

Eyes: The Dramatic, Downturned Eye

The goal here is to create a sense of melancholy and drama. Forget the upward flick of a modern cat-eye; the 1920s eye is all about a downward sweep.

  • Foundation: Start with a light, matte foundation. The ideal is a porcelain finish, so opt for a shade lighter than your natural skin tone.

  • Brows: The brows were thin, straight, and often extended downwards. Use a dark brown or black pencil to draw a thin line, flattening any natural arch. You can use a concealer to cover any stray hairs for a cleaner line.

  • Shadow: Use a dark gray or black eyeshadow, applied generously over the entire lid and brought down to the lower lash line. The key is to blend the shadow slightly past the outer corner of the eye, creating a downward, triangular shape.

  • Liner: A black kohl pencil is your best friend here. Line the upper and lower lash lines, smudging the liner for a soft, smoky effect. The line should extend slightly past the outer corner, following the downward curve of the eyeshadow.

  • Lashes: Apply a few coats of black mascara, focusing on both the upper and lower lashes. The goal is a clumpy, defined look, not a feathery one.

Lips: The Cupid’s Bow

The 1920s lip was small, precise, and highly stylized. The “cupid’s bow” was the dominant shape.

  • Prep: Start with a lip primer to create a smooth canvas and prevent feathering.

  • Liner: Use a dark red or black lip pencil to outline the lips. The key is to create a dramatic, peaked “M” shape on the upper lip, but to keep the corners of the mouth unlined and slightly downturned.

  • Fill: Fill in the outlined shape with a deep red lipstick. The finish should be matte or a soft velvet. Avoid gloss.

  • The Look: The final shape should be a small, pouty mouth in the center of the face, a stark contrast to today’s full-lipped trend.

The Thirties: The Age of Hollywood Glamour

As the Great Depression took hold, makeup became a form of escapism. The 1930s look was softer, more refined, and focused on creating a classic Hollywood glamour. The key elements are a thin, arched brow, soft, blended eyeshadow, and a more natural lip shape.

Eyes: The Soft, Arched Look

The focus shifted from the dramatic to the elegant.

  • Foundation: A flawless, luminous finish is the goal. Use a medium-coverage foundation with a satin finish.

  • Brows: The brows were still thin but now had a dramatic, high arch. Use a pencil to create a thin line, arching it high above the natural brow bone.

  • Shadow: Apply a light, neutral shade like taupe or light brown over the entire lid. Use a slightly darker shade in the crease to create a soft contour. The blending should be seamless and subtle.

  • Liner: Use a brown or black pencil to line the upper lash line, keeping the line thin and close to the lashes. A slight upward flick at the outer corner is acceptable but should be subtle, not a bold cat-eye.

  • Lashes: A single coat of black mascara on the upper lashes is all you need. The goal is to define, not to volumize.

Lips: The Wider, Fuller Mouth

The small cupid’s bow was out, and a wider, fuller mouth was in.

  • Prep: Use a lip primer to ensure a long-lasting, smooth finish.

  • Liner: Use a lip pencil in a shade similar to your lipstick. Outline the natural shape of your lips, but extend the line slightly past the natural corners of your mouth to create a wider look.

  • Fill: Fill in with a classic red lipstick. The finish should be a soft cream or a satin.

The Forties: The Era of “Rosie the Riveter”

The 1940s was a time of war and utility. Makeup was a morale booster, a small act of rebellion and a symbol of resilience. The look was clean, practical, and polished. The key elements are strong, defined brows, minimal eye makeup, and a bold, red lip.

Eyes: The Clean and Simple Eye

The focus here is on a natural, well-groomed look.

  • Foundation: A sheer to medium-coverage foundation that evens out skin tone is perfect. A semi-matte finish is ideal.

  • Brows: The brows were fuller and more natural than in previous decades. Use a pencil or powder to fill in any sparse areas, creating a defined but not overly-drawn look. The arch should be soft and natural.

  • Shadow: Use a neutral, matte shade like a light brown or beige over the lid. This is not about drama; it’s about a clean, polished look.

  • Liner: A thin line of black or brown pencil on the upper lash line is optional but adds a touch of definition.

  • Lashes: A single coat of black mascara on the upper lashes is all you need.

Lips: The Red Lip is Essential

The red lip was a symbol of patriotism and femininity. It was the centerpiece of the 1940s look.

  • Prep: Prime your lips to create a smooth base.

  • Liner: Use a red lip pencil to outline your natural lip shape. The line should be precise and clean.

  • Fill: Fill in with a vibrant, matte red lipstick. The shades were often true reds, not orange-reds or blue-reds.

  • The Look: The red lip was often paired with a simple swipe of blush on the cheeks for a healthy, rosy glow.

The Fifties: The Era of Pin-Up Perfection

The 1950s was a time of prosperity and a return to traditional gender roles. Makeup was about creating a flawless, feminine ideal. The key elements are the perfectly-arched brow, the dramatic winged eyeliner, and the matte red lip.

Eyes: The Classic Cat-Eye

The cat-eye became the hallmark of the 1950s. It was sharp, precise, and unapologetically glamorous.

  • Foundation: A full-coverage, matte foundation is essential for a flawless, airbrushed look.

  • Brows: The brows were perfectly groomed and had a high, defined arch. Use a pencil or pomade to fill them in, creating a clean, sharp line.

  • Shadow: Apply a light, matte cream or white eyeshadow over the entire lid to act as a base.

  • Liner: This is the most crucial step. Use a liquid or gel eyeliner with a fine brush. Start at the inner corner and draw a thin line, gradually thickening it as you move towards the outer corner. The key is to create a sharp, upward flick. The angle of the wing should follow the natural curve of your lower lash line.

  • Lashes: Apply a few coats of black mascara, and consider using false lashes for a truly dramatic, fluttery look.

Lips: The Flawless Red Lip

The 1950s lip was all about precision and a powerful, matte red.

  • Prep: Use a lip primer to ensure a smooth, long-lasting finish.

  • Liner: Use a red lip pencil to create a perfectly-defined outline. The line should be sharp and follow your natural lip shape.

  • Fill: Fill in the lips with a bold, matte red lipstick. A classic true red is the most authentic choice.

  • The Look: The flawless face, the sharp cat-eye, and the bold red lip created a look of controlled perfection and feminine power.

The Sixties: The Psychedelic Revolution

The 1960s was a decade of social upheaval and artistic exploration. Makeup reflected this shift, moving away from the polished look of the 50s and embracing a more playful, experimental style. The key elements are a focus on the lower lash line, a “cut crease” and a pale, nude lip.

Eyes: The Doll-Like, Defined Eye

The goal was to create a wide, open, doll-like eye.

  • Foundation: A medium-coverage, semi-matte foundation is perfect.

  • Brows: The brows were less defined, often a bit softer and more natural. A light powder can be used to fill in any gaps.

  • Shadow: Use a light, pastel shade like a baby blue, light green, or lilac over the lid. The key is the “cut crease.” Use a dark brown or gray matte shadow in the crease of your eye, creating a sharp, defined line. This creates the illusion of a larger lid.

  • Liner: Use a black liquid liner to create a thick line on the upper lash line. The line should be bold and stop at the outer corner of the eye.

  • Lower Lashes: This is the most distinctive part of the 60s look. Use a black liquid liner or a soft pencil to draw a thick line on the lower lash line, following the natural curve of your eye. You can also draw on individual lower lashes with a fine brush for an even more dramatic, doll-like effect. Apply a heavy coat of mascara to both the upper and lower lashes.

Lips: The Pale, Nude Mouth

The focus was on the eyes, so the lips were kept muted.

  • Prep: Use a lip primer.

  • Color: Apply a pale pink, peach, or beige lipstick. The finish should be a soft satin or a cream.

  • The Look: The large, defined eyes were the star of the show, with the pale lips and understated foundation acting as a supporting cast.

The Seventies: The Bohemian Chic

The 1970s was a decade of self-expression, naturalism, and a return to earthiness. Makeup became more relaxed and individualistic. The key elements are a sun-kissed glow, a focus on dewy skin, and a natural, understated eye.

Eyes: The Soft, Natural Eye

This look is about effortless beauty, not about heavy application.

  • Foundation: A sheer, dewy foundation or a tinted moisturizer is perfect. The goal is to let your natural skin shine through.

  • Brows: The brows were natural, full, and often left to their own devices. Use a clear brow gel to tame and define them.

  • Shadow: Use a neutral, earthy tone like a soft brown, taupe, or a shimmering bronze. Apply a light wash of color over the lid and blend it softly into the crease.

  • Liner: A thin line of brown pencil on the upper lash line is optional.

  • Lashes: A single coat of brown or black mascara is all you need to define the lashes.

Lips: The Glossy, Natural Lip

The 70s lip was all about a healthy, glossy sheen.

  • Prep: A simple lip balm is all you need.

  • Color: Use a sheer, glossy lipstick in a natural shade like a peach, a nude, or a soft pink. A clear lip gloss is also a perfect option.

  • The Look: The entire face was about a healthy, natural, sun-kissed glow. A pop of blush on the cheeks and a dusting of bronzer completed the look.

The Eighties: The Era of Excess and Bold Color

The 1980s was a decade of unapologetic excess, and makeup was no exception. It was about bright colors, bold shapes, and a “more is more” philosophy. The key elements are vibrant, geometric eyeshadow, strong blush, and a frosted lip.

Eyes: The Neon-Washed Canvas

The eyes were a canvas for bright, daring colors.

  • Foundation: A full-coverage, matte foundation is perfect.

  • Brows: The brows were full and often left natural. Use a clear brow gel to keep them in place.

  • Shadow: This is where you can be truly creative. Choose two or three bright, contrasting colors. Apply the colors in a geometric pattern, often extending the shadow up to the brow bone and out to the temple. Think fuchsia with a bright blue, or a neon green with a vibrant purple. The blending is often less important than the stark contrast of the colors.

  • Liner: Use a black or colored pencil to line both the upper and lower lash lines.

  • Lashes: Apply a few coats of black mascara.

Cheeks: The Power Blush

Blush was a key part of the 80s look, often applied heavily and used to contour.

  • Application: Choose a bright pink or fuchsia blush. Start at the temple and sweep the blush down to the apples of the cheeks. The goal is a dramatic, visible line of color, not a soft, blended glow.

Lips: The Frosted Lip

The 80s lip was about shimmer and shine.

  • Prep: Use a lip balm to create a smooth base.

  • Color: Use a frosted lipstick in a bright pink, red, or even a purple. The finish should be highly shimmery and reflective.

  • The Look: The combination of bold eyes, heavy blush, and frosted lips created a look of powerful, vibrant femininity.

Conclusion: A Timeless Legacy

Mastering retro makeup isn’t about being stuck in the past; it’s about drawing inspiration from it. Each decade offers a unique lesson in artistry, from the subtle drama of the 1920s to the bold confidence of the 1980s. By understanding the techniques and the aesthetics of each era, you can confidently recreate these classic looks and even infuse them with your own modern twist. The key is to practice, experiment, and most importantly, to have fun. Retro makeup is a celebration of style, a tribute to the power of a perfectly applied cat-eye or a bold red lip, and a reminder that true beauty is always in vogue.