How to Handle Breakouts After Dermaplaning: What to Do

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A definitive, in-depth guide on how to handle breakouts after dermaplaning: what to do.

The Post-Dermaplaning Predicament: A Proactive and Practical Guide to Clearing Breakouts

You’ve just experienced the silky-smooth, post-dermaplaning glow, only to wake up a day or two later with an unwelcome surprise: a crop of new blemishes. This isn’t the radiant, hairless skin you envisioned. It’s a common and frustrating experience, but it doesn’t mean you’ve made a mistake. It simply means your skin is reacting to a deep exfoliation, and it needs a specific, gentle, and strategic approach to get back on track.

This guide is your roadmap to navigating post-dermaplaning breakouts. We’ll cut through the confusion and provide a clear, step-by-step plan that goes beyond generic advice. You’ll learn exactly what to do, what to avoid, and how to heal your skin quickly and effectively, ensuring your next dermaplaning session is a breakout-free success.

Your Immediate Action Plan: The First 24-48 Hours

The first two days after a breakout appear are the most critical. Your skin is sensitive, and your actions will either calm the inflammation or make it worse. Your goal here is to be ultra-gentle and focused on soothing and preventing further irritation.

1. The Gentle Cleanse: Your New Best Friend

  • Swap your cleanser: Put away your foaming, exfoliating, or harsh cleansers. Your skin barrier is compromised and needs a break. Reach for a cream, milky, or gel cleanser that is fragrance-free and specifically designed for sensitive skin. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides, which will cleanse without stripping moisture.

  • The cool water rule: Always wash your face with lukewarm or cool water. Hot water can further inflame the skin, increase redness, and strip away essential oils, making breakouts more persistent.

  • The no-rub method: Instead of rubbing your face with a towel, gently pat it dry with a clean, soft cloth. Rubbing can irritate the already-sensitive skin and spread bacteria.

Concrete Example: After a breakout appears, switch your regular salicylic acid face wash for a product like CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser or La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser. Use your fingertips to apply it in gentle, circular motions for 30 seconds. Rinse with cool water and pat dry.

2. The Soothing Solution: Hydration is Your Priority

  • Hold the actives: For now, sideline your retinol, vitamin C, glycolic acid, and other potent serums. Your skin is in a healing phase, and these ingredients can be too aggressive, leading to more inflammation and a compromised skin barrier.

  • Introduce a simple, soothing serum: Look for serums with calming ingredients. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is excellent for reducing inflammation and redness. Centella Asiatica (cica) or green tea extract are also powerful anti-inflammatory agents that will help calm the skin.

  • Moisture is non-negotiable: Your post-dermaplaning skin needs moisture to heal. Use a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer to lock in hydration. Look for products that contain ceramides, which help rebuild the skin’s protective barrier.

Concrete Example: After cleansing and patting your face dry, apply a few drops of a niacinamide serum (like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%) to your entire face. Follow up with a simple, fragrance-free moisturizer such as Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer.

3. The Spot Treatment Strategy: Targeted and Gentle

  • Avoid aggressive spot treatments: Don’t reach for your full-strength benzoyl peroxide or sulfur spot treatments. These can be too drying and irritating for the newly exposed skin.

  • Try a hydrocolloid patch: For active pimples, a hydrocolloid patch is a game-changer. These patches create a moist healing environment, protect the blemish from bacteria, and absorb excess fluid. They are a much safer and gentler option than traditional spot treatments.

  • The dab-on approach: If you must use a spot treatment, opt for one with a low concentration of salicylic acid (1-2%) or tea tree oil, and apply it only to the specific blemish with a clean cotton swab.

Concrete Example: If a whitehead appears, cleanse and moisturize your face as usual. Before bed, apply a Cosrx Acne Pimple Master Patch directly over the blemish. The patch will work overnight to draw out impurities and reduce the size and redness of the pimple.

The Long-Term Recovery Plan: The Next 7-14 Days

After the initial 48 hours, your focus shifts from immediate crisis management to long-term healing and prevention. This phase is all about rebuilding your skin’s barrier and gradually reintroducing beneficial ingredients.

1. Rebuilding the Barrier: The Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid Power Duo

  • Double down on hydration: Your skin barrier is like the mortar between bricks. Dermaplaning can temporarily weaken this mortar, making you more susceptible to breakouts. Hydration is the key to rebuilding it. Continue using hydrating serums and moisturizers with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

  • Introduce an essence: A hydrating essence or toner can provide an extra layer of moisture and soothing benefits. Look for products with calming ingredients like aloe vera or snail mucin.

  • Keep exfoliation on hold: Do not, under any circumstances, use a physical or chemical exfoliant. This includes scrubs, brushes, or exfoliating toners. Wait at least a full week, preferably two, before even considering reintroducing these.

Concrete Example: In the morning, after cleansing, apply a hydrating toner like Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner. Follow with your hydrating serum and moisturizer. In the evening, repeat this routine, and on nights when you feel extra dry, apply a thin layer of a gentle facial oil (like squalane) over your moisturizer to seal in the hydration.

2. Targeted Taming: Carefully Reintroducing Actives

  • The gradual reintroduction: After your breakouts have calmed down and your skin is less red and irritated (usually around day 5-7), you can slowly and carefully reintroduce a targeted active.

  • Niacinamide remains a star: Niacinamide is a powerhouse for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the red or brown marks left behind by pimples) and for strengthening the skin barrier. It’s a safe and effective ingredient to continue using.

  • The occasional acid: If your skin is healing well, you can consider using a very gentle chemical exfoliant, but only on non-consecutive nights. A salicylic acid toner (BHA) at a low concentration (2% or less) can help to gently clear pores, but do not use it more than 2-3 times a week. Avoid AHAs (glycolic or lactic acid) for now, as they are more potent and can irritate.

Concrete Example: Once the active breakouts have subsided, you can begin to use a product like Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. Start by using it just twice a week, on separate nights. After cleansing, apply it with a cotton pad and wait 15 minutes before applying your hydrating serum and moisturizer. If you experience any redness or irritation, stop and go back to your gentle routine.

The Prevention Playbook: What to Do Before and After Your Next Session

Now that you’ve successfully managed the breakout, let’s ensure it doesn’t happen again. Proper pre- and post-dermaplaning care is the ultimate preventative measure.

1. The Pre-Dermaplaning Prep

  • Pause your actives: Stop using all retinol, vitamin C, and exfoliating acids at least 3-5 days before your scheduled appointment. This ensures your skin is calm and ready for the procedure.

  • Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate: In the days leading up to your session, focus on hydrating your skin. A well-hydrated skin barrier is more resilient and less likely to be irritated.

  • No new products: Do not introduce any new products into your routine in the week before dermaplaning. Your skin needs a stable, predictable environment.

Concrete Example: If your dermaplaning session is on a Friday, stop using your retinol serum on the preceding Monday. On Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, cleanse with your gentle cleanser and use a hydrating serum (like one with hyaluronic acid) and a simple moisturizer.

2. The Post-Dermaplaning Protocol (Repeatable and Non-Negotiable)

  • The first 48 hours are sacred: After your session, treat your skin like a newborn’s. Avoid direct sunlight, hot showers, and sweating. Do not apply makeup for at least 24 hours. Your only skincare products should be a gentle cleanser, a simple hydrating serum, and a moisturizer.

  • Sunscreen is your shield: Your skin is incredibly vulnerable to UV damage after dermaplaning. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every single day, without fail.

  • Clean tools and hands: Ensure all your towels, pillowcases, and hands are clean. Your skin has open micro-channels, and it’s easy for bacteria to cause new breakouts.

Concrete Example: The day after your dermaplaning session, apply a mineral-based sunscreen like EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 every morning. Avoid touching your face throughout the day, and change your pillowcase to a fresh one that night.

Navigating the Psychological Toll: Stay Patient, Stay Positive

Dealing with breakouts, especially after a treatment you expected to improve your skin, can be disheartening. It’s important to remember that this is a temporary state. Your skin is going through a natural healing process. Be patient, stick to your routine, and trust the process. Avoid the temptation to pick or squeeze blemishes, as this will only lead to scarring and a longer recovery time.

By following this definitive, actionable guide, you’ll not only clear up your current breakouts but also equip yourself with the knowledge to prevent future ones. Dermaplaning is a wonderful tool for achieving radiant, smooth skin, and with the right care, you can enjoy all its benefits without the frustrating side effects.