Crafting a flawless lined garment is the hallmark of a skilled seamster. While the concept of sewing a lining may seem daunting, the secret to a professional finish lies in mastering a few key techniques for creating seamless, invisible seams. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process, from preparing your fabric to the final press, ensuring your finished garment looks as beautiful on the inside as it does on the outside.
The Foundation of Flawless Lined Garments
Before a single stitch is made, meticulous preparation is crucial. This isn’t just about cutting fabric; it’s about setting the stage for a perfect finish.
Fabric and Pattern Preparation:
- Fabric Choice: Select a lining fabric that complements your main fabric in both weight and drape. A silky lining for a delicate silk blouse, or a sturdy Bemberg rayon for a wool coat. The lining should allow the garment to move freely and be comfortable against the skin.
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Pre-Shrinking: Wash and dry both your main fabric and lining fabric in the same way you plan to wash the finished garment. This prevents future shrinkage and distortion after the garment is completed.
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Pattern Tracing and Cutting: Trace your pattern pieces with precision. Use a sharp rotary cutter or fabric scissors to ensure clean, accurate cuts. Transfer all markings—darts, notches, and buttonhole placements—to both the main fabric and the lining. Accuracy here is non-negotiable.
Interfacing for Structure and Support:
- Where to Interface: Interfacing isn’t just for collars and cuffs. It’s the silent hero of a well-made garment. Apply it to areas that need structure and stability, such as the collar, cuffs, front plackets, and the hem allowance on the lining.
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Types of Interfacing: Choose the correct weight of interfacing for your fabric. A lightweight fusible interfacing for a delicate blouse, or a medium-weight sew-in for a tailored jacket. Sew-in interfacing is often preferred for high-end garments as it doesn’t alter the drape of the fabric.
Mastering the ‘Bagging Out’ Technique: The Heart of a Seamless Seam
The term “bagging out” refers to the process of sewing the main garment and its lining together, leaving an opening, and then turning the entire garment right side out through that opening. This creates a completely enclosed, seamless finish. This technique is primarily used for collars, facings, cuffs, and certain types of hems.
Example: A Lined Bodice with Facing:
- Sewing the Main Garment: First, construct the main garment bodice. Sew the shoulder and side seams of the main fabric. Press the seams open.
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Sewing the Lining: Construct the lining bodice. Sew the shoulder and side seams of the lining fabric. Press the seams open.
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Attaching Facing (if applicable): If your pattern includes a facing, attach and sew it to the main garment’s neckline and armholes. Trim the seams and clip the curves for a smooth turn.
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Pinning the Garment and Lining: Place the main garment and the lining right sides together. Align the shoulder seams, side seams, and all notches. Pin meticulously along the neckline, armholes, and center front/back.
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Sewing and Clipping: Sew along the pinned edges with a consistent seam allowance. When you reach a curve, a V-shape, or a corner, pivot your fabric and continue sewing. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch. Clip curves by making small snips perpendicular to the seam line, being careful not to cut the stitching. This releases the tension and allows the fabric to lay flat when turned.
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Turning and Understitching: Leave an opening, usually at the hem or a designated area on the side seam of the lining. Reach through this opening and pull the entire garment right side out.
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Understitching: This is the secret to a professional finish. Understitching is a line of stitching on the lining side that attaches the seam allowance to the lining. It’s done from the right side of the lining, 1/8 inch away from the seam line, and it prevents the lining from rolling to the outside of the garment. It’s a small detail that makes a monumental difference.
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Pressing: Press the entire garment with steam. Use a tailor’s ham for curved areas like armholes and bust darts to preserve the garment’s shape.
Invisible Hemming for Lined Skirts and Dresses
A beautifully lined garment deserves an equally beautiful hem. The goal is to create a hem that is completely invisible from the outside. There are two primary methods for achieving this: the machine-stitched invisible hem and the hand-stitched blind hem.
Method 1: The Machine-Stitched Invisible Hem:
This method is fast, strong, and ideal for everyday garments.
- Hemming the Main Garment: Turn up the hem of your main fabric by the designated amount, usually 1 to 2 inches. Press the fold line. Then, fold the raw edge under and press again, creating a double-fold hem.
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Sewing the Hem: Use a blind hem foot on your sewing machine. The foot has a guide that helps you catch only a tiny bit of the main fabric’s folded edge, while sewing a straight line on the folded hem allowance.
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Hemming the Lining: The lining hem should be shorter than the main garment’s hem, typically by about 1 inch. This prevents the lining from peeking out from under the garment. Fold the raw edge of the lining hem up by 1/4 inch and press. Then, fold it again by 1/4 inch and press. Stitch along the folded edge to secure the double-fold hem.
Method 2: The Hand-Stitched Blind Hem (Catch Stitch):
This is the ultimate in invisible hemming, used for high-end garments and delicate fabrics. It offers a soft, flowing hemline.
- Hemming the Main Garment: Turn up the hem allowance and press. Finish the raw edge with a serger or a zigzag stitch.
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The Catch Stitch: With a single strand of thread and a fine needle, fold the hem allowance up so you can access the raw edge. On the folded edge, take a tiny stitch. Then, move over about 1/4 inch and take a tiny stitch, catching only one or two threads of the main fabric. Continue this process, creating a zig-zag pattern between the hem allowance and the main fabric. The stitches should be barely visible on the outside of the garment.
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Hemming the Lining: Just like with the machine-stitched method, the lining hem should be shorter than the main garment’s hem. You can use a machine-stitched double-fold hem or a hand-stitched blind hem, but the machine method is often sufficient as the lining’s hem is not visible.
Sewing Sleeves and Armholes Seamlessly
Lined sleeves are a particular challenge, but with the right technique, you can achieve a professional, enclosed finish.
Method 1: Flat Insertion (for garments without a side seam opening):
This method is used when the main garment’s side seam and the lining’s side seam are already sewn.
- Sew the Main Sleeve Seam: Sew the main sleeve seam and press it open.
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Sew the Lining Sleeve Seam: Sew the lining sleeve seam, but leave an opening of about 3 inches near the wrist. This is your turning hole. Press the seam open.
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Attaching Sleeves to Armholes: Turn the main garment inside out. Pin the main sleeve into the armhole, right sides together. Match all notches and the shoulder seam. Sew the sleeve into the armhole. Trim the seam allowance and clip curves.
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Attaching Lining Sleeves: Turn the lining inside out. Pin the lining sleeve into the lining armhole, right sides together. Sew the lining sleeve into the lining armhole. Trim and clip.
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Connecting the Main and Lining Sleeves at the Cuff: Turn the main garment right side out, but with the lining still inside out. Insert the main sleeve into the lining sleeve. Align the main sleeve hem and the lining sleeve hem, right sides together. Pin and sew all the way around the wrist opening.
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Turning and Finishing: Reach through the opening in the lining sleeve seam and pull the entire sleeve right side out. Sew the opening closed by hand with a ladder stitch, or on the machine if it’s not a delicate fabric. Press the sleeve and armhole seam.
Method 2: The “Bagging Out” Method for Sleeves:
This method is ideal for tailored jackets and coats where the lining is attached at the armhole.
- Constructing the Garment: Construct the main garment and the lining separately. This means sewing the main fabric sleeve into the main armhole and the lining sleeve into the lining armhole.
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Joining at the Armhole: This is where the magic happens. Turn the main garment right side out. Leave the lining garment inside out. Put the main garment inside the lining garment, so they are right sides together.
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Pinning the Armhole: Carefully align the armhole seams and shoulder seams. Pin the main garment and lining together around the entire armhole. Sew the main garment and lining together around the armhole opening.
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Turning and Finishing: Reach through an opening in the lining (usually a side seam) and pull the entire garment right side out. Sew the opening closed by hand. The armhole seam is now completely enclosed, and the seam allowance is hidden between the layers.
Achieving Perfect Seams for Collars and Necklines
A crisp, clean collar or a smooth, wrinkle-free neckline is the hallmark of a well-made garment. The key is in the order of operations and a small but vital detail: grading the seam allowance.
Example: A Lined Garment with a Collar:
- Preparing the Collar: Interface one side of the collar (the under collar) for stability. Sew the main collar pieces together, right sides facing, leaving the neck edge open.
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Grading the Seam Allowance: After sewing the collar seam, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Trim the seam allowance of the under collar to 1/8 inch, and the seam allowance of the top collar to 1/4 inch. This creates a “graded” seam, which helps the seam roll to the inside and lie flat.
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Clipping and Turning: Clip the corners of the collar diagonally. Turn the collar right side out, using a point turner to gently push out the corners. Press the collar.
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Attaching the Collar to the Garment: With the main garment facing you, pin the collar to the neckline, right sides together. Sew the collar to the neckline.
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Attaching the Facing and Lining: Place the lining/facing over the collar and main garment, right sides together. The collar is now sandwiched between the main garment and the facing. Pin and sew all the way around the neckline.
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Clipping and Understitching: Grade the seam allowance around the neckline. Clip the curves. Turn the garment right side out. Understitch the facing to the seam allowance to prevent it from rolling to the outside.
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Final Pressing: Press the entire collar and neckline area with a pressing cloth to avoid shine on the fabric.
The Power of Pressing and Topstitching
Pressing is not an afterthought; it’s an integral part of the construction process. It shapes the fabric and locks in the stitches, creating a professional, clean finish.
- Pressing as You Sew: After every seam, press it open. This creates a flat foundation for the next seam. Use a steam iron and a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.
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The Final Press: After all seams are sewn and the garment is turned, give it a final, thorough press. Use a tailor’s ham for curves and a seam roll for long, straight seams.
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Topstitching: Topstitching is a line of stitching visible on the outside of the garment, often used on collars, cuffs, and hemlines. It serves a functional purpose (holding layers together) and an aesthetic one. Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm) and a topstitching thread for a clean, professional look.
The Art of Finishing the Lining’s Side Seam
When you use the “bagging out” method, you often have an opening in the lining’s side seam. There are two professional ways to close this.
Method 1: Machine-Stitched Closure:
This is the fastest method and is suitable for most garments.
- Press the Seam Allowance: Press the seam allowance of the opening to the inside.
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Pin and Sew: Pin the folded edges together, aligning the seam lines. Sew a line of stitching 1/8 inch away from the folded edge, backstitching at the beginning and end.
Method 2: Hand-Stitched Ladder Stitch:
This is the invisible finish of choice for high-end garments.
- Press the Seam Allowance: Press the seam allowance of the opening to the inside.
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The Ladder Stitch: Thread a needle with a single strand of matching thread. Tie a knot. Anchor the thread inside the seam allowance. Take a tiny stitch on the folded edge of one side of the opening, then a tiny stitch directly across on the other folded edge. Continue this process, creating stitches that look like a ladder. Gently pull the thread to close the opening invisibly.
Mastering these techniques is a journey, not a destination. With each lined garment you create, you will develop a deeper understanding of fabric, fit, and the subtle art of construction. The satisfaction of turning a perfectly sewn, beautifully lined garment right side out, with every seam enclosed and every edge clean, is a reward that makes every meticulous step worthwhile.