How to Sew Seams on Faux Fur and Plush Fabrics

by

Mastering the Fuzz: A Comprehensive Guide to Sewing Seams on Faux Fur and Plush Fabrics

The allure of faux fur and plush fabrics is undeniable. From cozy teddy coats to whimsical cosplay costumes and luxurious home decor, their soft texture and vibrant colors add a touch of magic to any project. But for many sewers, the thought of cutting and stitching these materials can feel intimidating. The long pile, the shed, the bulk – it’s a whole new world of challenges compared to working with cotton or linen.

This isn’t a guide filled with fluffy theories. This is a hands-on, practical manual designed to transform your fear into mastery. We’ll dissect the entire process, from fabric selection and preparation to the final, professional-looking seam. You’ll learn the specific tools, techniques, and troubleshooting tips needed to create flawless, durable seams on any faux fur or plush fabric. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to tackle any project, no matter how fuzzy.

Section 1: The Foundation – Pre-Sewing Preparation

The secret to a successful faux fur project lies in the preparation. Skipping these initial steps is the number one cause of frustrating, messy seams.

1.1 Choosing Your Weapon: Fabric Selection and Pile Direction

Not all faux fur is created equal. Understanding the different types is crucial for choosing the right one for your project.

  • Low-Pile Faux Fur: Short, dense fibers. Think teddy bear plush or minky fabric. Easier to sew, less shedding.

  • Medium-Pile Faux Fur: The most common type. Fibers are 1/2 to 1 inch long. Often used for jackets and vests.

  • Long-Pile Faux Fur: Fibers are 1.5 inches or longer. This is the stuff of high-fashion coats and fantasy capes. Requires the most care.

Actionable Tip: Always purchase a little extra fabric, especially if you’re a beginner. This gives you a buffer for mistakes and test swatches.

Understanding Pile Direction: Just like human hair, faux fur has a grain or “pile direction.” The fibers naturally lay in one direction.

  • How to Check: Run your hand along the surface. The direction that feels smooth is the grain. The direction that feels rough and resists your hand is against the grain.

  • Why It Matters: All pattern pieces for a single garment must be cut with the pile running in the same direction. This ensures a consistent look and feel. Cutting pieces with different pile directions will result in a mismatched, patchy appearance.

Concrete Example: For a faux fur jacket, you would want the pile to run downwards from the shoulders, just like a natural pelt. All front, back, and sleeve pieces must be cut so the fibers lay in this direction.

1.2 Taming the Beast: Tools and Supplies

Don’t try to make do with your standard sewing kit. These specialized tools will make your life infinitely easier.

  • Sharp, Heavy-Duty Shears: Faux fur is thick. Cheap scissors will strain your hands and leave jagged edges. Invest in a good pair of fabric shears (Fiskars, Gingher) that are reserved only for fabric.

  • Rotary Cutter and Mat (Optional but Recommended): For long, straight cuts on low-pile fabrics, a rotary cutter is faster and cleaner than shears.

  • Exacto Knife or Razor Blade: This is the game-changer for cutting high-pile faux fur. We’ll detail this technique later.

  • Long, Strong Pins: Standard dressmaker pins will get lost in the pile and bend. Use long T-pins, corsage pins, or quilting pins.

  • Polyester Thread: Cotton thread isn’t strong enough for the dense weave of faux fur. Choose a high-quality polyester thread that matches the backing of the fabric, not the pile.

  • Walking Foot: This is the most important tool on this list. A walking foot has its own set of feed dogs that move in sync with your machine’s. It grips both the top and bottom layers of the fabric, preventing them from shifting and creating puckered seams. Do not attempt to sew faux fur without one.

  • Leather Needle or Heavy-Duty Needle: Use a size 16 or 18 needle. A standard universal needle will snap or create skipped stitches.

  • Lint Roller or Shop-Vac: You will be a fur magnet. Have a lint roller ready at all times. A shop-vac with a brush attachment is a great way to clean up your workspace after cutting.

1.3 The Clean Cut: Minimizing the Shed

The single most terrifying aspect of sewing faux fur is the shedding. But with the right technique, you can dramatically reduce the mess.

  • The “Exacto Knife” Method for High-Pile Fur: This is the secret to a clean seam.
    1. Mark the Line: Turn the fabric over so the backing is facing you. Use a marker or tailor’s chalk to draw your seam line on the back.

    2. Part the Pile: Use your fingers or a comb to gently part the long fibers along your marked line. Push the fibers away from the line so they don’t get cut.

    3. Score the Backing: With an Exacto knife or razor blade, lightly score only the fabric backing, being careful not to cut the fibers. You want to “slice” the backing, not “chop” the pile.

    4. Pull Apart: Once you’ve scored the entire line, gently pull the two fabric pieces apart. The backing will separate cleanly, and the long fibers will remain intact.

  • The “Shears” Method for Low-Pile Fur: For low-pile fabrics, you can use sharp shears.

    1. Turn Over: Turn the fabric backing up.

    2. Use Only the Tips: Cut with the very tips of your shears. This prevents you from accidentally chopping off the long fibers. Cut in small, deliberate snips.

Actionable Tip: Immediately after cutting, shake the cut pieces vigorously outside or over a trash can to remove any loose fluff. Run a lint roller along the cut edges.

Section 2: The Stitch – Sewing the Perfect Seam

Now that your pieces are cut and ready, it’s time to sew. This section focuses on the specific machine settings and techniques that will give you a professional, durable seam.

2.1 The Machine Settings

  • Needle Position: Use a center needle position.

  • Stitch Length: A longer stitch length is crucial. A short stitch will create a dense, inflexible line that can easily pull or tear the backing. Use a stitch length of 3.0mm to 3.5mm.

  • Tension: Start with your machine’s standard tension setting (usually 4-5). If you see the bottom thread pulling too tight, slightly decrease the tension. If the top thread is pulling too tight, slightly increase the tension.

  • Walking Foot: Attach your walking foot. Seriously, don’t skip this.

2.2 The Pinning Strategy

You can’t just pin faux fur like you would a cotton broadcloth. The pins need to be long and placed strategically.

  1. Align the Edges: Place your two fabric pieces right sides together.

  2. Pin Perpendicularly: Use your T-pins to pin the seam lines every 1 to 1.5 inches. Pin perpendicular to the seam line, not parallel. This prevents the pins from getting in the way of the walking foot and allows you to easily pull them out as you sew.

  3. Check for Shifting: Before you take it to the machine, gently tug on the pinned edges to ensure they haven’t shifted.

Concrete Example: If you are sewing the shoulder seams of a jacket, you would pin the front and back pieces together with T-pins placed perpendicular to the seam line, starting at the neck and working your way out to the armscye.

2.3 The Sewing Process: It’s All in the Details

  1. Start Slow and Steady: Begin sewing at a slow, controlled speed. Let the walking foot do the work.

  2. Backstitch: Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam. Faux fur seams can endure a lot of stress, so a strong lock stitch is essential.

  3. Remove Pins as You Go: Pull out the pins just before the walking foot reaches them. Never sew over a pin.

  4. “Comb Out” the Seam: This is the most important step for an invisible seam.

    • What it is: The pile on the right side of the fabric gets caught in the seam allowance as you sew. You need to pull it back out.

    • How to do it: Once you’ve sewn the seam, gently turn the fabric right side out. Use a pin, a seam ripper, or a small comb to carefully pull out any fibers that are trapped in the stitch line. Work slowly and deliberately along the entire seam. This step is what makes the seam disappear into the surrounding pile.

Concrete Example: After sewing the side seam of a faux fur pillow, you would gently push out the corner and then use the point of a seam ripper to pull any trapped fibers from the seam line. This process makes the seam completely invisible.

Section 3: Finishing and Advanced Techniques

A professional garment isn’t just about the main seams. It’s about how you finish the edges, manage the bulk, and create a truly polished look.

3.1 Managing Bulk and Finishing Seams

Faux fur and plush fabrics are thick. You can’t just press the seams open like you would with cotton. The bulk will show through and create an unsightly ridge.

  • The “Trim and Grade” Method:
    1. Trim the Seam Allowance: After sewing, trim the seam allowance down to 1/4 inch.

    2. Grade the Layers (for thick fabrics): If the fabric is very thick, you can “grade” the seam. This means trimming one side of the seam allowance to 1/8 inch and the other to 1/4 inch. This staggers the layers and reduces bulk when you press the seam to one side.

  • The “Comb to One Side” Method:

    1. Comb the Pile: On the right side of the fabric, comb the pile of the seam allowance to one side.

    2. Finger Press: Gently finger press the seam to the side that you combed the pile. You can’t use an iron on faux fur. The heat will melt the synthetic fibers.

3.2 Sewing Curves and Corners

  • Curves: When sewing a curved seam (like a collar or sleeve cap), the walking foot is your best friend. It will feed the fabric evenly, preventing puckers.

  • Clipping Curves: After sewing, clip the seam allowance of the curve.

    • Concave Curves (inside curve): Clip small triangular wedges out of the seam allowance.

    • Convex Curves (outside curve): Clip small V-shaped notches into the seam allowance.

    • Purpose: Clipping allows the seam to lay flat and prevent pulling.

Concrete Example: When sewing the curved edge of a faux fur collar, you would sew the seam and then clip small triangular notches out of the seam allowance every half inch. This will allow the collar to lay flat and not bunch up when you turn it right side out.

3.3 Adding a Lining

Almost all faux fur garments require a lining. This hides the raw seams, prevents the shedding from getting on your clothes, and makes the garment more comfortable to wear.

  • The “Two-Step” Process:
    1. Construct the Shell: Sew the entire faux fur garment together as if it were a finished product. Don’t worry about hemming or facing.

    2. Construct the Lining: Cut and sew the lining pieces using the same pattern, but with a lining fabric (like satin or cotton voile).

    3. Attach the Lining: Sew the lining to the faux fur shell at the neckline, cuffs, and hem. Then, turn the garment right side out through a small opening you left in a seam.

    4. Slip Stitch: Hand-sew the opening closed with a slip stitch for a clean, invisible finish.

Conclusion

Sewing faux fur and plush fabrics is an adventure, not a chore. By approaching it with the right tools and techniques, you can overcome the common challenges and create beautiful, professional-looking garments and projects. The key is to be prepared, patient, and precise. With each seam you sew, you’ll gain confidence and skill, and soon