How to Understand Cashmere Grades and Why They Matter

A Guide to Understanding Cashmere Grades and Why They Matter

Cashmere is a word that instantly evokes a sense of luxury, softness, and warmth. But a quick glance at the market reveals a vast discrepancy: a cashmere sweater can cost $80 or $800, and both might claim to be “100% cashmere.” This is where the myth of a single, uniform cashmere quality unravels. The secret to this price and quality chasm lies in a concept few consumers truly understand: cashmere grades.

Understanding cashmere grades is not just about fashion trivia; it’s an essential skill for the discerning shopper. It empowers you to make informed decisions, ensuring your investment in a garment delivers on the promises of longevity, feel, and value. This guide will demystify the grading system, turning you into a cashmere connoisseur who can spot the real deal from a mile away and appreciate the profound impact that a few microns of difference can make.

Decoding the Cashmere Grading System: A, B, and C

The global cashmere industry relies on a simple yet critical grading system to classify the raw fibers harvested from the undercoat of Cashmere goats. This system, primarily based on the physical properties of the fiber, directly dictates the final quality of the yarn and, consequently, the finished garment. The three main grades are A, B, and C, with Grade A representing the pinnacle of quality and C being the lowest.

The two most important metrics for grading are fiber diameter (measured in microns) and fiber length (measured in millimeters).

• Fiber Diameter (Microns): This is the single most critical factor. A micron is one-millionth of a meter. For context, a human hair is typically around 70 microns thick. The finer the fiber (the lower the micron count), the softer, lighter, and more pliable the resulting fabric will be. Fine fibers create a denser, more luxurious fabric with a superior feel against the skin.

• Fiber Length (Millimeters): Longer fibers are more resilient and durable. They are less prone to breakage during the manufacturing process and, crucially, are far less likely to pill. Garments made from longer fibers maintain their shape, texture, and aesthetic appeal for years, if not decades. Short fibers, by contrast, are weaker and have more ends that can work their way out of the knit, causing the garment to pill excessively and lose its structure quickly.

Let’s break down the three grades with a focus on their defining characteristics.

Grade A: The Gold Standard

Grade A cashmere is the finest and most luxurious fiber available. It is the holy grail of cashmere, reserved for high-end luxury brands and heirloom-quality garments.

• Defining Metrics:
  • Fiber Diameter: Less than 15.5 microns. The finest Grade A fibers can be as low as 14 microns.

  • Fiber Length: 34 to 36 millimeters and longer.

• Practical Impact:

  • Unrivaled Softness: The extremely fine micron count means the fibers are barely perceptible against the skin. A Grade A cashmere sweater feels like a cloud, with a smooth, non-prickly, and buttery-soft hand-feel.

  • Superior Warmth-to-Weight Ratio: The fineness of the fibers allows them to be spun into a lightweight yet incredibly insulating yarn. A Grade A sweater is thin and light but provides exceptional warmth. This is due to the high surface area of the fine fibers, which trap air efficiently without adding bulk.

  • Exceptional Durability and Pilling Resistance: The long fibers are tightly woven and stay put. A well-made Grade A garment will resist pilling significantly more than its lower-grade counterparts. Over time, it will soften even further without losing its shape or integrity.

  • Higher Price Point: Due to its rarity and the meticulous process required to harvest and process it, Grade A cashmere commands a premium price. You are not just paying for a label; you are paying for a superior raw material.

• Concrete Example: A Grade A, 2-ply cashmere crewneck sweater. When you hold it, it feels shockingly light. You can’t see through the fabric, but it drapes beautifully. When you stretch a section, it springs back instantly, holding its shape perfectly. The surface has a subtle, even halo of fluff, not a shaggy mess of loose fibers. This sweater might cost $400 to $800+, but with proper care, it could last for 20 years.

Grade B: The Everyday Workhorse

Grade B cashmere is a step down from Grade A, but it still represents a high-quality, respectable fiber. This is the grade that forms the backbone of many “premium” or “mid-tier” cashmere lines.

• Defining Metrics:
  • Fiber Diameter: Typically ranges from 16 to 19 microns.

  • Fiber Length: Generally shorter than Grade A, but still robust, often between 28 and 36 millimeters.

• Practical Impact:

  • Softness and Comfort: A Grade B sweater is still very soft, but if you were to feel it side-by-side with a Grade A, you would notice a slight difference. It may have a slightly coarser texture, and it won’t have the same “weightless” feel.

  • Good Durability: The fibers are long enough to provide good resistance to pilling, especially with proper care. However, it will likely show signs of wear and tear, such as some pilling in high-friction areas (underarms, sides), sooner than a Grade A garment.

  • More Accessible Price: Grade B fibers are more abundant than Grade A, making garments produced from them significantly more affordable. This is often the sweet spot for consumers seeking a balance between quality and price.

• Concrete Example: A Grade B, 2-ply cashmere pullover from a reputable brand. It feels soft and cozy, much better than a typical wool sweater. The price is more palatable, maybe $200 to $350. After a season of wear, you might notice some small pills forming under the arms, but they are easily removed with a cashmere comb, and the sweater retains its overall look and feel.

Grade C: The Pitfall of Compromise

Grade C cashmere is the lowest quality on the market. It is often found in fast-fashion versions of cashmere or in products that seem “too good to be true” in terms of price. While technically 100% cashmere, it is a far cry from the luxurious experience of Grades A or B.

• Defining Metrics:
  • Fiber Diameter: Over 20 microns, sometimes as high as 30 microns.

  • Fiber Length: Short, often less than 28 millimeters.

• Practical Impact:

  • Rougher Texture: The thicker, shorter fibers can feel noticeably coarse and even slightly itchy against the skin. It will not have the same elegant drape or luxurious feel.

  • Prone to Pilling: The short fibers have numerous exposed ends that break easily and knot together. A Grade C sweater will pill heavily and almost immediately, especially in friction zones. This gives the garment a worn-out appearance after only a few wears.

  • Lack of Durability: A Grade C garment is a short-term investment. It will stretch out, lose its shape, and become misshapen much faster than a higher-grade counterpart.

  • Lower Price Point: The low cost is the main selling point, but this often leads to a high “cost per wear” as the garment’s lifespan is significantly shorter. The savings are an illusion.

• Concrete Example: A “cashmere” sweater purchased for under $100. It feels initially soft (often due to chemical softeners that wash out), but its texture is rougher than expected. After the first wear, you see dozens of little pills forming. After three washes, the sleeves have stretched, the body has become boxy, and the once-dark color appears faded. The sweater becomes a throwaway item in a single season.

Beyond Grades: Other Quality Indicators

While grades are the most important factor, they are not the only ones. Savvy shoppers should also consider these other technical and practical elements to ensure they are making a wise investment.

Ply: The Strength of the Yarn

Ply refers to the number of cashmere threads twisted together to create a single yarn. This has a direct impact on the garment’s durability and weight.

• 1-Ply: The thinnest and most delicate option. It’s often used for very fine, lightweight scarves or shawls. A 1-ply sweater can be fragile and more prone to developing holes.

• 2-Ply: The industry standard for high-quality sweaters. Two threads are twisted together, providing a perfect balance of warmth, durability, and a lightweight feel. This is what you should look for in a quality cashmere garment.

• 3-Ply and Higher: These are heavier and thicker yarns, resulting in chunkier, warmer garments. They are often used for outerwear or heavy sweaters for extreme cold. While they are more durable, more plies do not necessarily mean higher quality in terms of the raw fiber itself.

• Actionable Advice: Always check the tag or product description for the ply. A cheap, 1-ply sweater will feel light but won’t last. A high-quality, 2-ply sweater is a dependable workhorse.

Gauge: The Density of the Knit

Gauge is a measure of how tightly a garment is knitted, specifically the number of stitches per inch. This affects the garment’s texture, weight, and warmth.

• High Gauge (e.g., 12-gauge, 16-gauge): A high gauge means a very tight, fine knit. This creates a smooth, sleek fabric with excellent drape, perfect for lightweight sweaters that can be worn under a blazer.

• Low Gauge (e.g., 5-gauge, 7-gauge): A low gauge means a looser, chunkier knit. These garments have a more rustic, textured appearance and are typically heavier and warmer.

• Actionable Advice: The “best” gauge depends on your desired outcome. For a versatile, year-round sweater, a 12-gauge knit is ideal. For a cozy, cold-weather staple, a 7-gauge knit is a great choice. The key is to ensure the knit is consistent and not full of visible holes or uneven stitches.

How to Judge Cashmere Quality in Person: The Hands-On Tests

The information on a label is a good starting point, but the true test of cashmere quality comes from your own senses. Here’s how to put a garment through its paces:

1. The Touch Test: Run your hand across the surface of the garment. It should feel incredibly soft and smooth, with no prickle or scratchiness. A Grade A cashmere will feel almost oily or slick. If the fabric feels too slippery or artificially soft, it may have been treated with a chemical softener that will disappear after the first wash, revealing a much coarser fiber underneath.

2. The Drape and Density Test: Hold the garment up to a light source. For a 2-ply sweater, a small amount of light might pass through, but you should not be able to see clearly through the fabric. A cheap, low-grade sweater will look thin and almost transparent. Next, let the garment hang from your hand. High-quality cashmere will drape fluidly and evenly.

3. The Stretch Test: Gently stretch a small section of the fabric. High-quality cashmere, made from long fibers, will have excellent elasticity. It should immediately snap back to its original shape. If the fabric sags or takes time to recover, it is a sign of short, weak fibers.

4. The Pilling Potential Test: The surface of a new, high-quality cashmere garment should have a very subtle halo of fibers, no more than a millimeter or two long. If the surface is excessively fuzzy or you see small, pre-existing pills, it’s a red flag. Rub a small, inconspicuous area (like the hem) with your thumb. If a small pill forms quickly, the garment will be a pilling machine.

The True Cost of Cashmere: Why Grades Matter for Your Wallet and the Planet

The difference in cashmere grades is more than just a matter of aesthetics and feel; it has significant implications for your long-term investment and the ethical landscape of the industry.

For Your Wallet: Buying a low-grade cashmere sweater might save you money upfront, but the investment is fleeting. The garment will pill, stretch, and degrade in a single season, requiring you to replace it constantly. This is the “fast fashion” paradox. A high-grade, 2-ply sweater, while a significant initial investment, will last for years, making its “cost per wear” far lower in the long run.

For the Planet: The demand for cheap cashmere has created an environmental crisis. To meet the ever-growing need, goat herds have multiplied in Mongolia and China. Overgrazing by these herds destroys the delicate grassland ecosystems, leading to desertification and threatening the traditional livelihoods of nomadic herders. When you purchase low-grade cashmere, you are often implicitly supporting these unsustainable practices, as manufacturers are forced to use cheaper, shorter fibers from more animals to keep costs down. A high-quality, responsibly sourced Grade A garment comes from fewer, healthier goats and often from companies that invest in sustainable practices.

The Final Word: Choosing Wisely

The cashmere industry thrives on the average consumer’s lack of knowledge. Labels that simply state “100% cashmere” are designed to be misleading. By understanding the grading system, ply, gauge, and how to perform a few simple tests, you can see through the marketing and make a truly informed choice.

Ultimately, the goal is not just to buy a garment, but to invest in a piece that will bring you joy and comfort for years. The next time you’re shopping for cashmere, move beyond the price tag and the “100% cashmere” claim. Instead, ask yourself these questions:

• How does it feel? Is it buttery soft or slightly scratchy?

• How does it drape? Does it have substance or is it thin and see-through?

• How does it stretch? Does it snap back to its shape?

These simple tests, guided by your newfound knowledge of cashmere grades, will ensure you’re making a choice that is better for your wardrobe, your wallet, and the future of fashion.