How to Find Unique Vintage Buttons for Your Projects

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The Ultimate Guide to Sourcing Unique Vintage Buttons for Your Fashion Projects

In the world of fashion, the smallest details often make the biggest impact. While fabrics, silhouettes, and color palettes are crucial, a single, exquisite vintage button can transform a simple garment into a statement piece. It speaks of a forgotten era, a story waiting to be told. The allure of a unique button—its history, its craftsmanship, and its distinct character—is what separates a mass-produced item from a truly personalized creation. This guide is your definitive resource, a practical roadmap to help you navigate the world of vintage buttons, from the initial thrill of the hunt to the satisfying moment you sew the final piece into place. We will move beyond the superficial search, focusing on the tactical methods, identification skills, and restoration techniques that will elevate your projects and your collection.

The Hunt Begins: Where to Look for Your Vintage Button Treasure Trove

Finding a truly unique button is not a matter of luck; it’s a strategic endeavor. The most successful hunters know where to look and, more importantly, how to look. The search takes you to both physical locations and digital marketplaces, each with its own set of rules and rewards.

Physical Sourcing: The Thrill of the In-Person Find

Physical locations offer an unparalleled tactile experience. You can touch, feel, and inspect each button, which is essential for identifying materials and condition.

1. Antique Shops and Flea Markets: The Classic Hunting Grounds

These are the most traditional and often the most rewarding places to find vintage buttons. The key is not to head straight for the obvious notions display. Instead, adopt a comprehensive search strategy.

  • The Notions Counter: Many antique shops will have a designated area for sewing supplies. Instead of just glancing at the neatly arranged jars, take the time to dig. Look for loose buttons in drawers, small tins, or even old cigar boxes. A jar that appears to hold only common plastic buttons on the top might conceal a handful of rare, hand-carved shell buttons at the bottom.

  • The “Unbuttoned” Garment Racks: This is where the real gems are often hidden. Many garments are sold at a lower price because they are missing a button or two. The other buttons, however, are still there and are often original to the piece. Look for vintage coats, suits, or blouses that have a beautiful, intact button placket. A single vintage wool coat could yield a dozen unique horn or Bakelite buttons, each perfectly matched.

  • Ask the Dealer: Most antique dealers specialize in specific eras or items. Engage with them and express your interest in sewing notions. A dealer might have a box of unorganized buttons in the back room that they haven’t had time to sort. A simple question like, “Do you ever get old buttons or sewing supplies?” can open doors to a collection you would have otherwise missed.

Concrete Example: At a local flea market, you spot a dusty, oversized men’s trench coat from the 1940s. The fabric is stained and torn, but the ten large, intricate buttons are still attached. They are a deep brown, with a beautiful marbled pattern and a subtle sheen. You realize they are not plastic but Bakelite. You purchase the entire coat for a low price, carefully remove the buttons, and now have a perfect set of ten matching vintage buttons for your next tailored jacket project.

2. Thrift Stores and Charity Shops: The Ultimate High-Yield Forage

Thrift stores are less about curated collections and more about the chaotic joy of discovery. The low prices make it the ideal place to practice the “button-harvesting” technique.

  • Scan the Button Plackets: When you enter a thrift store, your eyes should automatically go to the buttons on every garment. Look for jackets, cardigans, blouses, and dresses with buttons that stand out. Even if the garment itself is unusable, the buttons can be the prize.

  • The “Button Jar” Phenomenon: Some thrift stores have a “crafts” section where they will sell jars or bags of loose buttons. These are often a mix of old and new, valuable and generic. The true skill lies in quickly assessing the jar. Look for a high density of non-uniform buttons—buttons with different textures, materials, and sizes. This is a strong indicator that the jar is a collection of a lifetime, not a bulk pack from a craft store.

  • Seasonal Finds: Pay attention to seasonal donations. Winter coats often have large, decorative buttons made from natural materials like horn or wood. Summer blouses might feature delicate mother-of-pearl or glass buttons.

Concrete Example: You find a heavy, shapeless sweater from the 1970s for a few dollars. It is a garish shade of orange, but the six buttons are a remarkable, perfectly preserved mother-of-pearl, each with a unique iridescent swirl. You buy the sweater, remove the buttons, and now have a ready-made set for a new silk blouse, adding a touch of vintage elegance to a modern design.

3. Estate Sales and Auctions: The Mother Lode

Estate sales and home auctions are often where entire sewing rooms are liquidated. This is your chance to acquire not just a few buttons but an entire collection.

  • Go Early and Go with a Plan: Estate sales are competitive. Arrive early and make a beeline for the craft room or bedroom closets. The sewing cabinet or button box is your primary target.

  • Look Beyond the Obvious: The best finds are rarely out in the open. Search through drawers, in old biscuit tins, and at the bottom of fabric bins. You might find a small tin filled with dozens of “goofies”—novelty buttons from the 1940s and 50s shaped like animals or flowers—or a box of military uniform buttons from a specific era.

Digital Sourcing: Global Access from Your Couch

The online world provides access to a vast network of sellers and collectors. The key to digital success is using precise search terms and learning how to evaluate a button without holding it in your hand.

1. Online Marketplaces and Auction Sites

Platforms like Etsy and eBay are the mainstays of online vintage button shopping.

  • Mastering Search Terms: Generic searches like “vintage buttons” will yield millions of results. To narrow your focus and find what you want, use specific descriptors. Try searching for “Bakelite buttons,” “mother-of-pearl buttons,” “Art Deco buttons,” or “1920s glass buttons.” Add terms like “shank,” “sew-through,” or “carded” to refine the results further.

  • Vetting Sellers: Look for sellers with high ratings and positive reviews, especially those who specialize in vintage notions. Read their descriptions carefully. A reputable seller will provide details on the button’s material, era, and condition.

  • Checking Condition from Photos: Zoom in on every available photo. Look for cracks, chips, or tarnish. A good seller will show the front and back of the button and provide a size measurement in millimeters or inches.

Concrete Example: You are working on a tailored blazer and need three matching buttons. A search on an online marketplace for “vintage brass buttons lion crest” brings up a dozen results. You find a set of three buttons from the 1930s still attached to their original card, with a clear photo of the back showing a unique shank and manufacturer’s mark. The seller has a 99% positive rating and provides a detailed history. You purchase the set with confidence, knowing they are a genuine, matching collection.

Decoding the Past: Identifying and Dating Your Buttons

Once you have a button in your hand, its true value comes from understanding its history. The material, construction, and design all provide clues to its origin. Learning to identify these traits is both a practical skill and an enriching hobby.

1. Identifying Materials: The Touch and Feel Method

The material of a button is the most immediate indicator of its age and value. Different eras favored different materials, from natural resources to groundbreaking new plastics.

  • Celluloid and Bakelite (1900s-1940s): These early plastics are highly sought after.
    • The Smell Test: Gently rub the button with your thumb until it warms up, then smell it. Celluloid gives off a camphor-like odor, similar to mothballs. Bakelite, when heated, emits a distinct, pungent formaldehyde smell.

    • Hot Water Test (with extreme caution): A less destructive method is to dip a cotton swab in hot water and rub it on the button’s back. Bakelite will leave a yellowish residue on the swab and emit its signature smell. Avoid this method for any button that has paint or a fragile finish.

  • Mother-of-Pearl and Shell (Pre-1950s):

    • The Iridescence Test: Genuine mother-of-pearl buttons have a unique, shimmering iridescence that changes color as you move them in the light. Modern plastic imitations are often a flat, uniform white.

    • The Temperature Test: Mother-of-pearl feels cool to the touch, much like a stone or a piece of glass. Plastic imitations will feel room temperature.

  • Metal (All Eras):

    • Patina and Tarnish: Look for natural patina and tarnish. A button with a uniform, polished surface might be a modern reproduction.

    • Hallmarks and Backmarks: Examine the back of the button for any maker’s marks, brand names, or dates. These can be tiny and require a magnifying glass. Military and uniform buttons are particularly well-documented and often have clear markings.

  • Glass (Victorian to Mid-Century):

    • Cool to the Touch: Like shell buttons, glass buttons feel cool. They also have a weight and a distinct, sharp “clink” when tapped gently against another glass button.

    • Foil Backs: Buttons from the Victorian era often had a glass top and a reflective foil back, which would catch the light. Look for signs of wear or corrosion on this foil backing.

2. Analyzing Construction and Fastenings

The way a button is attached also tells a story about its manufacturing process and era.

  • Sew-Through vs. Shank:
    • Sew-Through: These buttons have two or four holes drilled directly into the button face. They are common in almost every era, but the materials and uniformity can help date them. Hand-drilled holes, for example, are a sign of earlier craftsmanship.

    • Shank: Shank buttons have a loop or wire on the back. A wire loop shank embedded directly into a metal or glass button is a sign of earlier, pre-20th-century production. Later plastics often have a self-shank, where the loop is molded as part of the button itself.

  • Original Cards: The ultimate find is a button still on its original card. The card will often have the brand name, a date, or a description of the material, providing a definitive timeline for your button.

The Art of the Deal: Negotiation and Pricing

Knowing the value of a button is crucial, whether you are buying a jar full or a single, rare piece. It’s about striking a balance between being a shrewd collector and a respectful enthusiast.

1. Estimating Value and Pricing

  • The Single-Button vs. Set Principle: A single button, no matter how beautiful, is often less valuable than a matching set. A full set of buttons for a coat or jacket is a rare find and can fetch a significantly higher price.

  • Material and Rarity: The material is the primary driver of value. Bakelite, specific kinds of vintage glass (like Czech glass), and rare natural materials like carved horn are typically more valuable than common plastics or modern shells. Rarity also plays a role—a button with a specific maker’s mark or one from a limited-edition garment is worth more.

  • The Weight Test: When buying a jar of assorted buttons, weigh it in your hand. A jar that feels heavier than it looks is often full of glass or metal buttons, which are generally more valuable than lightweight plastic.

Concrete Example: You are at an antique shop and see two jars of buttons. The first is a large, translucent plastic jar filled to the brim with colorful, uniform plastic buttons. The second is a small, heavy glass jar with an old, rusted metal lid, containing a mix of off-white, slightly yellowed buttons. You pick up the small jar and it feels surprisingly heavy. You open it and find a mix of mother-of-pearl, hand-carved bone, and a few heavy, carved glass buttons. You know the second jar is the more valuable find, even though it contains fewer buttons.

2. Negotiation Tactics

  • At Flea Markets: Don’t be afraid to haggle. A button dealer might be more willing to negotiate on a bulk purchase. If you’re buying a jar of buttons, you might offer a slightly lower price, but do so with a smile and a friendly demeanor.

  • At Estate Sales: At the end of a multi-day sale, prices often drop. The last few hours can be the best time to make an offer on an un-purchased jar or collection.

  • Online: Many online platforms have a “make an offer” option. Use it judiciously, and be prepared to compromise.

The Art of Care: Cleaning and Restoring Your Finds

Bringing a vintage button back to life is a delicate process. The goal is to clean and preserve, not to destroy its historical character. Different materials require different treatments, and a one-size-fits-all approach will lead to disaster.

1. Safe Cleaning Methods by Material

  • Plastics (Bakelite, Celluloid): Use a soft cloth and a gentle, non-abrasive soap. A simple mixture of warm water and mild dish soap is often all that is needed. Do not use harsh chemicals, as they can damage the surface and color. For Bakelite, a small amount of car wax or mineral oil can be used to restore its shine, but always test on the back first.

  • Metals (Brass, Pewter, etc.): A soft toothbrush and a mild soap can remove surface dirt. For tarnish, a commercial metal polish designed for the specific metal (e.g., brass polish) can be used, but with great care. Use a cotton swab to apply it to small areas and always wipe away the residue immediately. Remember that some patina is part of the button’s character. Over-polishing can reduce its value.

  • Mother-of-Pearl and Shell: These buttons are delicate. Use a soft cloth and a bit of non-abrasive toothpaste or a fine jeweler’s rouge to gently clean them. The oils from your skin can help polish them as you handle them.

  • Glass: A soft cloth and a glass cleaner are all that’s needed. Be careful with painted glass buttons, as the paint can be fragile.

Concrete Example: You have found a tin of vintage pewter buttons from the 1920s. They are covered in a layer of grime and are heavily tarnished. Instead of scrubbing them with steel wool, you create a mild cleaning solution of warm water and dish soap. Using a soft toothbrush, you gently work the solution into the crevices, removing the dirt. For the tarnish, you apply a tiny amount of pewter polish with a cotton swab, then buff the buttons with a soft cloth. The buttons are now clean, but their historical patina remains, preserving their character.

2. Proper Storage: Protecting Your Investment

Once cleaned, buttons need to be stored properly to prevent damage.

  • Avoid Jars: While an old button jar is a charming aesthetic, it’s not ideal for long-term storage. Buttons can scratch each other, and heavy buttons can crush fragile ones.

  • Use Compartmentalized Boxes: A craft box with small dividers is the best way to store your buttons. Sort them by material, color, or project.

  • Consider Archival-Quality Bags: For your rarest or most valuable buttons, use small, archival-quality plastic bags. This protects them from scratches and separates them from other buttons.

Project Inspiration: Bringing Your Vintage Buttons to Life

The final step is to use your buttons in a way that honors their history while giving them a new purpose. The beauty of a vintage button is its versatility—it can be the star of a project or a subtle, finishing touch.

1. Upgrading and Embellishing Modern Garments

  • The Modern Blazer: Take a minimalist, single-breasted blazer and replace the four-hole plastic buttons with a set of vintage Bakelite or art deco metal buttons. The unique, heavy buttons will instantly give the blazer a designer, high-end feel.

  • The Cashmere Cardigan: Remove the plain plastic buttons on a new cardigan and replace them with small, iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons. This simple change adds a layer of luxurious detail.

  • Creating a Vintage-Inspired Closure: For a dress or blouse you’ve sewn yourself, use a line of mismatched vintage buttons down the back or side. This gives a playful, eclectic vibe while highlighting the unique story of each button.

Concrete Example: You have a collection of small, whimsical “goofie” buttons—a tiny bird, a flower, a star, a boot. You sew them as a single, decorative line up the side seam of a simple, dark denim skirt. They are unexpected, subtle, and make the skirt one-of-a-kind.

2. Creative Accessories and Jewelry

  • Button Earrings and Pendants: Use a pair of identical vintage buttons to create earrings, or wire wrap a single, ornate button for a necklace pendant. The intricate details of a Victorian-era glass button are perfect for this.

  • Bags and Wallets: Use a large, striking vintage button as the clasp on a handmade clutch or tote bag. This provides both a functional closure and a unique focal point.

  • Belts and Brooches: Sew a collection of small, complementary buttons onto a ribbon or leather strip to create a unique belt. For a brooch, glue or wire wrap a beautiful vintage button to a pin back.

Concrete Example: You find a beautiful, oversized carved horn button from a vintage coat. It is a striking, rich brown with a unique texture. You purchase a simple gold chain and a jewelry bail, which you attach to the back of the button. It becomes a stunning statement necklace, turning a piece of history into a wearable work of art.

The pursuit of vintage buttons is a journey that combines the thrill of the hunt with the satisfaction of creation. It requires patience, a keen eye for detail, and a reverence for the past. By mastering the strategies for sourcing, the skills for identification, and the techniques for care, you are not just collecting buttons—you are curating a collection of tiny, beautiful stories. Each button holds a piece of history, and by incorporating them into your projects, you are giving them a new life and a new legacy.