The Definitive Guide to Selecting the Best Pocket Square for Your Skin Tone
A pocket square is more than just a piece of fabric; it’s a punctuation mark, a final detail that speaks volumes about your attention to style. Yet, many men treat it as an afterthought, a random splash of color. The secret to elevating this simple accessory from a mere addition to a powerful statement lies in a principle often overlooked: its relationship with your skin tone. A pocket square chosen to harmonize with your complexion doesn’t just complement your suit—it brings your face to life, making you look more vibrant, refined, and confident. This guide will walk you through the practical, step-by-step process of choosing a pocket square that not only matches your outfit but, more importantly, enhances your unique skin tone.
Understanding Your Skin’s Undertone: The Foundational Step
Before you can choose the right colors, you must first understand the concept of skin undertones. This is not about how light or dark your skin is, but rather the subtle color beneath the surface. Undertones are categorized into three main types: cool, warm, and neutral.
The simplest way to determine your undertone is to examine the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural daylight.
- Cool Undertones: If your veins appear primarily blue or purplish, you have cool undertones. Your skin may have a rosy or pinkish cast. People with cool undertones often burn easily in the sun.
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Warm Undertones: If your veins look green or olive-hued, you have warm undertones. Your skin may have a golden or yellowish cast, and you tend to tan easily.
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Neutral Undertones: If you can’t definitively tell whether your veins are blue or green, or if they appear to be a mix of both, you likely have a neutral undertone. This means you have a balanced mix of both warm and cool pigments.
Another quick test is to hold a plain white sheet of paper up to your face. If your skin appears more pink or blue against the white, you have cool undertones. If it looks more yellow or golden, you have warm undertones. If it’s hard to tell, you’re likely neutral.
How to Leverage Color Theory for Your Pocket Square
Once you’ve identified your undertone, you can apply basic color theory to select pocket squares that will make your complexion pop. The goal is to choose colors that create a harmonious contrast with your skin, drawing attention to your face rather than clashing with it.
For Cool Undertones: Embracing the “Cool” Palette
Men with cool undertones thrive in colors that have a blue or pink base. These hues will contrast subtly with your skin, preventing you from looking washed out and instead bringing a healthy flush to your complexion.
Actionable Color Selections:
- Blues: Think beyond navy. Look for rich, jewel-toned blues like sapphire, cobalt, and even a vibrant cerulean. A silk pocket square in a deep sapphire will look particularly sharp against a grey suit, creating a sophisticated and clean line that highlights your features.
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Greens: Embrace cool greens such as emerald, hunter green, and forest green. These colors have a blue base that complements your cool undertone beautifully. A pocket square with a subtle emerald paisley pattern can add an elegant touch to a charcoal suit.
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Purples: Lavender, plum, and royal purple are excellent choices. They add a touch of regality without overpowering your look. A solid plum linen pocket square, for instance, provides a sophisticated pop of color that pairs well with a light grey or even a black suit.
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Pinks and Reds: Choose pinks and reds with blue undertones. Think fuchsia, magenta, or a deep burgundy. Avoid reds with a strong orange base, as they can clash. A burgundy silk pocket square is a classic, powerful choice that works with almost any suit color, from navy to charcoal.
Practical Examples:
- Outfit: A navy suit, white shirt.
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Pocket Square: A deep green pocket square with a subtle texture or a small geometric pattern in a similar cool tone. This creates a cohesive, high-contrast look that enhances your cool complexion.
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Outfit: A charcoal grey blazer, light blue button-down shirt.
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Pocket Square: A solid fuchsia linen pocket square. The boldness of the fuchsia is perfectly balanced by the grey and light blue, drawing the eye up to your face.
For Warm Undertones: The “Warm” and Earthy Spectrum
If you have warm undertones, your best colors are those with a yellow, orange, or golden base. These shades will harmonize with your skin’s natural warmth, giving you a sun-kissed, healthy glow.
Actionable Color Selections:
- Reds and Oranges: Focus on warm reds like brick, rust, and terracotta. Burnt orange and golden yellow are also exceptional choices. A pocket square in a rich terracotta can bring a sophisticated, autumnal feel to a navy or brown suit.
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Greens: Opt for earthy, warm greens. Think olive, moss green, and sage. These shades contain yellow undertones that will complement your complexion beautifully. A silk pocket square in a deep olive with a fine paisley print is an excellent choice for a tweed blazer.
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Yellows and Golds: Mustard yellow, ochre, and warm golds are your friends. These colors can be bold but, when used correctly, make a powerful statement. A mustard yellow pocket square works wonderfully with a blue suit, providing a high-contrast yet harmonious look.
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Neutrals: While most people can wear beige, warm-toned individuals can pull off rich, creamy beiges and camels with ease. A camel-colored linen pocket square offers a refined and subtle touch.
Practical Examples:
- Outfit: A brown tweed blazer, light cream shirt.
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Pocket Square: A pocket square in a bold rust or burnt orange. This adds a powerful punch of color that enhances the warm tones in both your skin and the blazer.
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Outfit: A navy suit, white shirt.
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Pocket Square: A pocket square with a warm, multi-colored paisley pattern that includes shades of mustard, olive, and brown. The pocket square ties the entire outfit together by picking up the blue of the suit and harmonizing it with the warm tones of your skin.
For Neutral Undertones: The Best of Both Worlds
Neutral undertones offer the most flexibility. You can confidently wear a wide range of colors, from both the cool and warm palettes. The key is to choose shades that are neither too warm nor too cool, or to wear both together.
Actionable Color Selections:
- Versatile Neutrals: You can wear almost any neutral with confidence, but a true, crisp white pocket square is a foolproof choice that works for any occasion. Other excellent neutrals include true greys and classic navy.
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Balanced Colors: Look for colors that sit in the middle of the spectrum. For example, a true red, rather than a burgundy or a brick red, will look fantastic. True greens, like a Kelly green, or a classic navy with no strong purple or teal leanings, are also great options.
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Dual-Toned Patterns: Your versatility means you can master pocket squares with intricate patterns that combine both warm and cool colors. This creates a dynamic look that shows a deep understanding of color.
Practical Examples:
- Outfit: A medium grey suit, light blue shirt.
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Pocket Square: A pocket square in a pattern featuring both a deep, cool-toned burgundy and a warm ochre. The combination of colors will look intentional and sophisticated, showcasing your ability to balance different palettes.
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Outfit: A simple navy blazer, white t-shirt.
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Pocket Square: A vibrant, solid fuchsia pocket square or a bold burnt orange pocket square. Your neutral skin tone can handle the intensity of these colors without being overpowered.
Beyond Color: Incorporating Patterns, Fabrics, and Folds
Color is the foundation, but a pocket square’s effectiveness is also determined by its pattern, fabric, and fold. These elements can either enhance your chosen color or detract from it.
Mastering Patterns: Adding Depth and Personality
- Solid: The solid pocket square is a timeless classic. It’s the safest, most formal option and is an excellent way to introduce a single, strong color that complements your skin tone. A cool-toned individual in a charcoal suit and a solid cobalt blue pocket square, for instance, projects confidence and authority.
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Paisley: This intricate, teardrop-shaped pattern is a hallmark of classic elegance. Paisley squares are often multicolored, allowing you to pick up a subtle color from your tie or shirt while introducing a new shade that works with your skin. For warm undertones, a paisley with rust and olive tones is perfect.
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Geometric: Polka dots, houndstooth, and other geometric patterns offer a modern, sharp look. A small, clean pattern can add visual interest without being distracting. For cool undertones, a navy pocket square with small white polka dots creates a fresh, clean aesthetic.
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Floral: Floral patterns can be a vibrant, expressive choice, particularly for casual or semi-formal events. The key is to select a floral pattern with a color palette that aligns with your undertone. A large-scale floral pocket square with a warm-toned color scheme (oranges, yellows, and deep greens) looks exceptional on a man with a warm complexion.
The Power of Fabric and Texture
The fabric of your pocket square affects not only its appearance but also its formality.
- Silk: Known for its luxurious sheen and vibrant colors, silk is a dressier option. It’s perfect for formal events and evening wear. A silk pocket square in a bold, rich color that flatters your undertone will catch the light and make a strong impression.
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Linen/Cotton: These fabrics have a matte, textured finish, making them ideal for more casual or business-casual settings. They offer a relaxed, effortless charm. A crisp white linen square is universally appropriate, but a colored linen square can add a practical, stylish touch. For warm undertones, a linen pocket square in a rich camel or beige is a sophisticated choice.
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Wool/Cashmere: Best for cooler weather, these fabrics add warmth and a different kind of texture. A wool pocket square is a great way to add an extra layer of visual interest to a tweed or flannel suit. For cool undertones, a grey wool pocket square with a subtle blue fleck is a perfect winter accessory.
The Final Touch: Folds and Placement
The way you fold your pocket square can change its formality and how it interacts with your outfit.
- The Presidential Fold (Flat Fold): This is the most formal fold, where the square is folded into a small rectangle and placed so only a sliver is visible. It’s a clean, classic choice for business suits.
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The Puff Fold: For a more relaxed, creative look, the puff fold is a soft, rounded shape that protrudes slightly from the pocket. It works best with softer fabrics like silk and for more casual events.
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The Crown Fold (One-Point Fold): This fold creates a single, sharp point and strikes a balance between formal and casual. It works with most fabrics and patterns.
The fold can also influence how the pocket square’s color appears. A solid-colored square in a puff fold will show a softer, more distributed shade, while the same square in a Presidential fold will be a sharp, intense line of color. Choose the fold that best suits the occasion and the statement you want to make with your chosen color.
Final Thoughts: The Art of Subtlety
The ultimate goal of a pocket square is to add a touch of personality and flair without dominating your entire outfit. By selecting a pocket square that not only complements your suit but also harmonizes with your skin’s undertone, you create a cohesive, polished look that highlights your best features. This isn’t about rigid rules, but a framework for making informed, confident choices. Start with a solid understanding of your undertone, build a collection of pocket squares in your flattering colors, and experiment with different fabrics and patterns. A well-chosen pocket square is the mark of a man who understands that true style is in the details, and the most important detail to get right is your own appearance.