Getting Rid of Patchy Contour Using an Angled Brush
Contouring has become an indispensable technique in modern makeup, allowing us to sculpt and define our facial features, enhancing our natural beauty. When executed flawlessly, it can create the illusion of higher cheekbones, a more chiseled jawline, or a slimmer nose. However, the dream of perfectly defined contours can quickly turn into a nightmare of patchy, uneven stripes if not applied correctly. One of the most common culprits behind this frustrating issue is improper brush usage, particularly with an angled brush, which is often hailed as the holy grail for contouring.
This comprehensive guide will delve deep into the art of achieving seamless contour with an angled brush, transforming your makeup routine from frustrating to fabulous. We’ll bypass the generic fluff and dive straight into actionable, practical advice, ensuring you understand not just what to do, but how to do it with precision and confidence. Say goodbye to patchy contour and hello to a naturally sculpted, effortlessly defined look.
The Angled Brush: Your Contouring Ally (or Arch-Nemesis)
The angled brush, with its slanted bristles, is designed to hug the contours of the face, making it an ideal tool for precise application of contour products. Its unique shape allows for both broad strokes and more targeted definition. However, this very versatility can be its downfall if not wielded correctly. The common mistakes often involve applying too much pressure, using the wrong product consistency, or neglecting proper blending techniques. Understanding the nuances of your angled brush is the first step towards mastering contouring.
Pre-Contour Perfection: The Canvas Matters
Before you even think about picking up your angled brush, ensuring your skin is properly prepared is paramount. A smooth, well-hydrated canvas prevents product from clinging to dry patches and ensures an even application.
- Hydrate and Prime: Begin with your usual skincare routine, including moisturizer. Allow it to fully absorb. Follow with a makeup primer suited to your skin type. For example, if you have oily skin, opt for a mattifying primer; if dry, a hydrating or illuminating primer. A primer creates a smooth base, minimizes pores, and helps your contour product adhere better and last longer.
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Foundation Application: Apply your foundation evenly across your face. Ensure it’s fully blended and streak-free. Any patchiness in your foundation will amplify, not hide, patchy contour. For instance, if you use a beauty blender for foundation, bounce it across your skin until the foundation seamlessly melts in, with no visible lines or unblended areas.
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Concealer (Optional but Recommended): If you use concealer under your eyes or to cover blemishes, apply and blend it before contouring. This ensures your contour complements your overall face makeup, rather than having to work around freshly applied concealer.
Choosing Your Contour Product: Consistency is Key
The type of contour product you use significantly impacts how easily you can achieve a seamless finish with an angled brush.
- Cream Contour: Cream contour products, whether in stick, pot, or liquid form, are generally more forgiving for beginners as they offer more blend time. They also tend to look more natural and skin-like.
- Example: If you’re using a cream stick, you might lightly draw a line where you want to contour. The angled brush will then be used to blend this line seamlessly into your skin.
- Powder Contour: Powder contour products require a lighter hand and more precise application, as they can be less forgiving if over-applied. They are best for those with oilier skin or for setting cream contour.
- Example: When using a powder, tap off excess product from your brush before applying to prevent a harsh, concentrated line.
- Product Shade Selection: Choose a contour shade that is two to three shades darker than your natural skin tone and has a cool or neutral undertone. Avoid warm, orangey bronzers, as these will look unnatural and muddy. A good test is to swatch the product on your jawline in natural light; it should look like a subtle shadow, not an obvious streak of color.
The Angled Brush Technique: From Application to Blending Mastery
This is where the magic happens – and where most contouring woes originate. Mastering the angled brush technique is crucial for a smooth, natural-looking contour.
Step 1: Loading the Brush – Less is More
One of the most common mistakes is overloading the brush. This leads to an excessive deposit of product, making blending incredibly difficult and resulting in patchy areas.
- Cream Contour:
- Direct Application (Stick/Pencil): If using a stick or pencil, lightly draw a line where you want the contour. Then, pick up a small amount of product directly from the stick with the edge of your angled brush.
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Pot/Liquid: Dip the very edge of your angled brush into the product or dab a tiny amount onto the back of your hand and pick it up from there.
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Example: For cream contour sticks, apply a thin line directly to the skin, then pick up the product on your brush by gently dabbing the brush along the applied line. This ensures controlled pickup.
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Powder Contour:
- Swirl the angled brush lightly into the powder product. Tap off any excess rigorously. You want a whisper of product on the bristles, not a visible pile.
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Example: After swirling, gently tap the brush handle against the edge of the contour pan or your wrist until no visible powder dusts off. This ensures only the finely distributed pigment remains.
Step 2: Strategic Placement – Where to Contour
Knowing exactly where to place your contour is fundamental. The goal is to create shadows where they naturally occur, enhancing your bone structure.
- Cheekbones: This is the most popular contouring area. Locate the hollows of your cheeks by sucking them in slightly or by feeling for the underside of your cheekbone.
- Application: Place the angled brush with the longer bristles facing upwards, hugging the underside of your cheekbone. Start from the top of your ear, aiming towards the corner of your mouth, but stop about two finger-widths away from your mouth. This prevents your face from looking sunken or dirty.
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Example: Imagine a diagonal line from the top of your earlobe aiming down towards the middle of your lips. Apply your contour product along this imaginary line.
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Jawline: To create a more defined jawline, apply contour along the bone, from just under your ear down to the chin.
- Application: Use the flat side of the angled brush to apply the product directly under your jawline.
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Example: With your head slightly tilted up, sweep the brush along the very edge of your jawbone, ensuring the product is deposited directly onto the bone to create a shadow.
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Forehead: If you have a larger forehead, contouring along the hairline can help minimize its appearance.
- Application: Apply the contour product along your hairline, blending it into your hair.
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Example: Sweep the brush along the perimeter of your forehead, focusing on the temples and the area where your hairline begins.
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Nose (Optional): For a slimmer nose, apply two thin lines down the sides of your nose, avoiding the bridge.
- Application: Use the very tip or narrowest edge of your angled brush for this precise application.
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Example: For nose contour, hold the brush almost perpendicular to your nose, using just the very tip of the angled edge to draw a hair-thin line from the inner corner of your brow down the side of your nose.
Step 3: The Blending Revolution – Eliminating Patchiness
This is the most critical step for banishing patchy contour. Proper blending transforms harsh lines into natural-looking shadows.
- Small, Controlled Motions: Do not swipe back and forth aggressively. Instead, use small, circular, buffing motions or light tapping motions with your angled brush.
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Light Hand: Apply minimal pressure. Let the bristles do the work. Pressing too hard will push the product around, creating streaks and unevenness.
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Blend Upwards and Outwards (Cheekbones): For cheekbones, blend the contour upwards towards your hairline and outwards towards your ear. This lifts the face and prevents the contour from looking heavy or dragging your face down.
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Blend Downwards (Jawline/Forehead): For the jawline, blend downwards into your neck. For the forehead, blend into your hairline. This ensures a seamless transition.
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Patience is Key: Blending takes time and patience. Don’t rush it. Continue blending until there are no visible lines or harsh edges, and the contour looks like a natural shadow.
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Example (Cheekbones): After applying the contour line, use your angled brush in small, tight circles, moving upwards towards your temple and outwards towards your ear. Imagine you are erasing the line, diffusing it into your skin. You should see the line soften and blend seamlessly into your foundation.
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Example (Nose): For nose contour, use tiny, almost vibrating back-and-forth motions with the very tip of the brush to blend the lines outwards, so they disappear into your foundation without widening the nose.
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Clean Brush (Important for Blending): If you find your contour is still looking patchy, use a separate, clean blending brush (or even a clean angled brush) to further diffuse the edges. Sometimes, the product already on your angled brush can hinder effective blending.
Step 4: Layering for Intensity (If Needed)
If after blending, you feel your contour isn’t intense enough, you can repeat the application and blending process. However, always start with a very small amount of product and build up gradually. It’s easier to add more product than to remove excess.
- Example: If your first application of powder contour is too subtle, apply another light layer to the same area, then blend again with the same small, circular motions. Do not apply a thick second layer, as this will immediately lead back to patchiness.
Troubleshooting Common Patchy Contour Scenarios
Even with the best techniques, sometimes issues arise. Here’s how to troubleshoot common patchy contour problems:
- “My Contour Looks Streaky”:
- Cause: Too much product, too much pressure, or not enough blending.
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Solution: Use less product. Blend with lighter, smaller circular motions. If the streaks are already there, use a clean, damp beauty sponge to gently tap over the streaky areas to diffuse the product.
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Example: If you see a harsh line under your cheekbone, gently bounce a slightly damp beauty sponge directly onto the line, working in small sections, until it softens and disappears.
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“My Contour is Too Dark in One Spot”:
- Cause: Too much product deposited in one area without adequate blending.
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Solution: Take your foundation brush (or the brush you used for foundation) with any leftover product on it, and gently buff over the overly dark area. The foundation will help to sheer out the contour. Alternatively, use a clean, fluffy brush with a tiny bit of translucent setting powder to lighten the area.
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Example: If you accidentally applied a concentrated blob of contour, take your foundation brush and lightly “erase” the dark spot by buffing over it, then blend the surrounding area again.
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“My Contour Looks Muddy/Orange”:
- Cause: Wrong shade of contour (too warm/orangey) or too much product applied to an area that doesn’t naturally cast a shadow.
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Solution: Ensure you’re using a cool or neutral-toned contour shade. If the shade is correct but it looks muddy, you’re likely applying too much. Lighten your hand, blend thoroughly, and make sure you’re applying in the correct hollows.
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Example: If your cheek contour looks muddy, it’s likely too low on your face. Try raising your application point slightly and focusing on blending upwards and outwards.
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“My Contour is Disappearing/Not Showing Up”:
- Cause: Not enough product, product being blended away completely, or skin type issues (e.g., very oily skin can “eat” product).
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Solution: Apply a tiny bit more product and focus on blending only the edges, leaving the intensity in the center. If you have oily skin, consider setting your cream contour with a powder contour of the same shade.
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Example: After blending your cream contour, if it’s too faint, lightly dust a matching powder contour over the same area using the angled brush. This will intensify and set it.
Setting Your Masterpiece: Locking in Your Contour
Once your contour is perfectly blended, setting it is crucial for longevity and to prevent it from moving throughout the day.
- Powder Contour: If you’ve used a cream contour, lightly dust a matching powder contour or a translucent setting powder over the contoured areas. Use a clean, fluffy brush for this to avoid disturbing your blended contour.
- Example: After perfecting your cream contour, gently tap a large, fluffy powder brush into a translucent setting powder, then lightly press and roll the brush over the contoured areas.
- Setting Spray: Finish your entire makeup look with a setting spray. This melts all the layers of makeup together, creating a more seamless, skin-like finish and increasing wear time.
- Example: Hold the setting spray arm’s length away and mist your face in an ‘X’ and ‘T’ motion. Allow it to air dry.
Maintaining Your Angled Brush: A Clean Brush is a Happy Brush
A clean brush is essential for flawless application and preventing product buildup, which can lead to patchy results.
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your angled brush after every 2-3 uses, or more frequently if you use cream products.
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Deep Cleaning: Deep clean your brushes at least once a week with a gentle brush cleanser or baby shampoo.
- Process: Wet the bristles, apply a small amount of cleanser, gently swirl on a textured brush cleaning mat or the palm of your hand, rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear, reshape the bristles, and lay flat to dry.
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Example: After each use, spray a quick-drying brush cleaner onto a tissue and gently wipe the brush head until no more product comes off. This prevents buildup. For deep cleaning, swirl the brush in a bowl of soapy water, rinse, and lay it on its side to air dry.
Advanced Tips for a Flawless Finish
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Mirror, Mirror: Always check your contour in different lighting conditions – natural light, indoor light – to ensure it looks seamless from all angles.
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Practice Makes Perfect: Contouring, especially with an angled brush, requires practice. Don’t get discouraged if your first few attempts aren’t perfect. Keep practicing, and you’ll develop muscle memory and a feel for the technique.
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Less is More (Again): This cannot be stressed enough. It’s always easier to add more product than to take it away. Start with a tiny amount and build up gradually.
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Consider Your Face Shape: While this guide focuses on technique, understanding your unique face shape can further refine your contour placement for optimal results. For example, a round face might benefit from more defined cheekbone contour, while a long face might benefit from contouring the chin.
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Blending with a Sponge: While this guide focuses on the angled brush, a slightly damp beauty sponge can be an excellent tool for “stamping” over patchy areas to further blend and diffuse the contour. Use it sparingly and with light pressure.
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The “Reverse Contour” Trick: If your contour is too harsh, you can use a small amount of your foundation or concealer on a clean brush and blend it around the edges of your contour to soften them. This is like “erasing” the harsh lines.
Conclusion
Achieving a seamless, naturally sculpted contour with an angled brush is not an elusive art reserved for professional makeup artists. It’s a skill that can be mastered with the right knowledge, practice, and attention to detail. By understanding the nuances of product selection, precise application, and most importantly, meticulous blending, you can transform your contouring game from frustratingly patchy to effortlessly flawless. Remember, the goal is to create natural-looking shadows that enhance your features, not to paint on harsh stripes. Embrace the power of the angled brush, and prepare to unveil a more defined, confident you.