Caring for cashmere sweaters and cardigans is an art form, a small investment of time that preserves the luxury and longevity of these cherished garments. This guide will walk you through every step, from the moment you bring a new piece home to long-term storage, ensuring your cashmere remains as soft, plush, and beautiful as the day you bought it.
The First Step: Before You Wear It
Cashmere, a delicate natural fiber, can benefit from a gentle pre-wear routine. This isn’t about washing it immediately, but about preparing the fibers for their first outing.
- Initial Airing: Upon arrival, unpackage your cashmere and let it air out. Hang it on a padded hanger or, even better, lay it flat on a clean surface for 24-48 hours. This allows the fibers to relax from being folded and compressed during shipping.
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Gentle Steaming (Optional but Recommended): Use a handheld steamer on a low setting, holding it a few inches away from the garment. This helps to smooth out any wrinkles and fluff up the fibers, giving it a fresh, ready-to-wear look. Avoid direct, prolonged heat, as this can damage the fibers.
Washing Your Cashmere: The Ultimate Guide
The fear of washing cashmere is common, but with the right technique, it’s a straightforward process. The golden rule: wash as infrequently as possible. Spot clean minor spills, and only wash the entire garment when it’s truly necessary.
Hand-Washing: The Gold Standard
Hand-washing is the safest and most recommended method for cleaning cashmere.
- Gather Your Supplies:
- A large, clean basin or tub.
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A specialized cashmere or wool wash (e.g., The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo, Eucalan, or a gentle baby shampoo). Never use regular detergent, as it is too harsh and can strip the natural oils from the fibers.
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A clean, dry towel.
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The Washing Process:
- Prepare the Water: Fill the basin with cool to lukewarm water. The temperature is crucial—too hot and the fibers will shrink and felt.
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Add the Detergent: Pour a capful or the recommended amount of cashmere wash into the water and agitate gently to create a sudsy solution.
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Submerge and Soak: Turn the garment inside out. This protects the outer surface from friction. Gently submerge the cashmere, pressing it down to ensure it’s fully saturated. Let it soak for no more than 30 minutes. Resist the urge to scrub or wring the garment.
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Rinse Thoroughly: Drain the soapy water. Refill the basin with clean, cool water and gently press the garment to rinse out the soap. Repeat this process until the water runs clear and all soap residue is gone.
Machine-Washing: A Calculated Risk
While hand-washing is preferred, some modern washing machines have a “delicate” or “wool” cycle that can be used with extreme caution.
- Preparation is Key:
- Place the cashmere inside a mesh laundry bag. This protects it from agitation and snags.
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Use a high-quality, pH-neutral wool wash.
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Wash the garment alone, or with other very delicate items.
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Settings Matter:
- Cycle: Use the “delicate,” “hand wash,” or “wool” cycle. These cycles have a very low spin speed and a short duration.
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Temperature: Set the water temperature to cold.
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Spin Speed: The lowest spin speed possible is essential. A high spin speed can distort the garment’s shape.
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Post-Wash: Even after a machine wash, the cashmere will be very wet. Do not wring it out. Proceed to the drying steps below.
Drying and Reshaping: The Most Critical Phase
This is where many people go wrong. Improper drying can permanently stretch or shrink your cashmere.
- The Towel Roll Method: After washing, gently press the garment between your hands to remove excess water. Do not wring or twist. Lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel and the cashmere together like a sleeping bag, pressing gently to absorb more water.
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Laying Flat to Dry: Unroll the towel and place the cashmere on a new, dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Lay it flat, away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Gently reshape the garment to its original dimensions, smoothing out any wrinkles.
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Patience is a Virtue: Allow the cashmere to dry completely, which can take 24-48 hours. Flip it once after about 12 hours to ensure even drying. Never hang a wet cashmere garment, as the weight of the water will cause it to stretch irreversibly.
De-pilling: The Secret to Long-Term Beauty
Pilling is the formation of small, fuzzy balls of fiber on the surface of the fabric. It is a natural occurrence, especially in high-friction areas like the underarms, sleeves, and sides. Pilling does not indicate poor quality; it’s a sign that the fibers are shedding excess material.
- Pilling Comb or Cashmere Comb: This is the safest and most effective tool. Lay the garment flat on a firm surface. Gently glide the comb across the affected area in a single direction, never scrubbing back and forth. The fine teeth will lift the pills without pulling on the underlying fibers.
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Electric Fabric Shaver: This can be faster but requires more caution. Use a high-quality shaver with a guard, and test it on a small, inconspicuous area first. Hold the fabric taut and move the shaver gently and evenly. Avoid pressing down, which can create a hole.
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Manual Method: While less recommended, a clean, sharp razor can be used with extreme care. Lay the garment flat and gently shave the pills off with short, light strokes. This method carries a higher risk of damaging the fabric.
Storing Your Cashmere: Protecting Your Investment
Proper storage is key to preventing damage from pests and preserving the shape of your garments.
Short-Term Storage (During the Season)
- The Fold, Don’t Hang Rule: Never hang a cashmere sweater or cardigan. The weight of the garment will stretch the shoulders and cause hanger bumps. Instead, fold it neatly and store it on a shelf or in a drawer.
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The Right Hanger (For Display): If you absolutely must hang a cardigan for a short period, use a padded hanger to distribute the weight evenly across the shoulders.
Long-Term Storage (Off-Season)
This is where your cashmere is most vulnerable to moths and other pests.
- Wash Before Storing: Moths are attracted to body oils, skin cells, and food stains. Wash your cashmere thoroughly and allow it to dry completely before storing it for the season.
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The Storage Container:
- Breathable Bag: Use a breathable fabric storage bag (e.g., cotton or canvas). Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture and can lead to mildew.
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Airtight Container: Alternatively, a clean, airtight plastic bin can be a good option. Ensure the cashmere is completely dry before sealing it.
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Pest Repellents:
- Natural Cedar: Place cedar blocks or balls in your storage container. The natural oils in cedar repel moths. Replenish the scent by sanding the cedar every few months.
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Lavender Sachets: Lavender is a pleasant-smelling, natural alternative to mothballs. Place small sachets of dried lavender in with your cashmere.
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Avoid Mothballs: The chemical smell of traditional mothballs is difficult to remove and can damage the fibers over time.
Spot Treatment and Stain Removal
Acting quickly is the key to successfully removing a stain from cashmere.
- Liquids (Wine, Coffee, etc.): Gently blot the stain with a clean cloth or paper towel. Do not rub, as this can spread the stain. Create a gentle solution of cool water and a tiny drop of cashmere wash. Dab the solution onto the stain with a clean cloth, working from the outside in.
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Oil-Based Stains: For oil, grease, or makeup, sprinkle the stain with a small amount of cornstarch or talcum powder. Let it sit for 30 minutes to absorb the oil, then gently brush it off. Follow up with a spot treatment using a gentle detergent and cool water.
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Pre-Soak: For a stubborn stain, create a solution of cool water and a small amount of cashmere wash. Soak the garment for 15-20 minutes, then follow the hand-washing instructions.
Additional Care Tips and Tricks
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Rest Your Cashmere: After wearing a cashmere garment, give it a day or two to rest. This allows the fibers to recover their shape and elasticity.
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Avoid Perfume and Deodorant: Try to avoid direct contact between your cashmere and harsh chemicals found in perfumes, colognes, and deodorants, as they can cause discoloration or damage.
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Ironing is a Last Resort: Cashmere does not typically require ironing. If absolutely necessary, use the “wool” or “low” setting on your iron. Turn the garment inside out and use a pressing cloth or a clean tea towel between the iron and the fabric. Use steam sparingly and avoid applying direct pressure.
Conclusion
Caring for cashmere is a practice of respect for a beautiful and valuable material. By dedicating a little time to proper washing, drying, de-pilling, and storage, you can ensure that your cashmere sweaters and cardigans remain soft, lustrous, and a joy to wear for many years to come. This detailed guide provides the framework; the rest is about gentle, consistent attention to detail.