Choosing a pocket square for a casual brunch is a subtle art that can elevate an outfit from good to great. While a tie is often the centerpiece of formal wear, the pocket square holds that position in a more relaxed setting. It’s a small detail with a big impact, a final touch that speaks volumes about your attention to detail and personal style. This guide will walk you through the definitive process of selecting the perfect pocket square for a casual brunch, providing actionable advice and concrete examples to ensure you always make the right choice.
The Foundation: Understanding the Brunch Vibe
Before you even think about fabric or color, you must understand the “vibe” of a casual brunch. This isn’t a black-tie event or a business meeting. It’s a relaxed, social gathering, often held outdoors or in a sunlit restaurant. Your outfit should reflect this laid-back elegance. Think linen shirts, unstructured blazers, chinos, and loafers. The pocket square should complement this aesthetic, not clash with it.
The key is effortless sophistication. You want to look put-together, not over-dressed. This is where the pocket square shines. It adds a pop of personality without the formality of a tie.
Fabric First: The Cornerstone of Comfort and Style
The fabric of your pocket square is the most critical decision you’ll make. It dictates the texture, drape, and overall feel of the accessory. For a casual brunch, your choices should lean towards natural, breathable materials that mirror the relaxed atmosphere.
1. Linen: Linen is the quintessential fabric for a casual brunch. Its slightly textured, matte finish and natural wrinkles exude a relaxed, effortless charm. A linen pocket square pairs beautifully with other summer-appropriate fabrics like cotton and linen.
- Actionable Example: For a navy unstructured blazer and a white linen shirt, a solid white or light blue linen pocket square is a classic choice. The texture of the linen adds a tactile dimension that’s more interesting than a smooth silk alternative.
2. Cotton: Cotton is a versatile and practical choice. It offers a clean, crisp look and comes in a vast array of patterns and colors. A high-quality cotton pocket square will hold its fold well and provide a neat, understated accent.
- Actionable Example: Pairing a light-gray cotton blazer with a striped cotton pocket square featuring shades of gray and blue creates a cohesive, yet visually interesting outfit. The cotton-on-cotton match feels intentional and balanced.
3. Silk: While often associated with formal wear, silk can work for a casual brunch if chosen carefully. The key is to opt for a silk with a matte or textured finish, avoiding anything overly shiny or slick. A silk-linen blend is an excellent compromise, combining the softness of silk with the relaxed feel of linen.
- Actionable Example: A deep green silk pocket square with a subtle paisley pattern can add a touch of luxury to a tan chinos and a light blue Oxford shirt combination. The key is to keep the pattern and color muted to prevent it from feeling too formal.
4. Wool/Wool-Silk Blends: These are excellent for cooler weather brunches. A textured wool pocket square, like a tweed or flannel, provides a rich, tactile element that pairs well with a heavier blazer.
- Actionable Example: For a tweed blazer and dark denim, a burgundy wool pocket square with a herringbone texture adds depth and warmth, perfectly suited for a fall or winter brunch.
Color and Pattern: The Art of Harmonizing and Contrasting
Once you’ve chosen your fabric, the next step is to select a color and pattern that complements your outfit without overpowering it. The goal is to create a cohesive look, not a distracting one.
1. The Rule of Thumb: Complement, Don’t Match
This is the most important rule in pocket square selection. Your pocket square should not be the same color or pattern as your shirt or tie (if you’re wearing one). It should complement a color within your outfit, but not be an exact match.
- Actionable Example: If you’re wearing a blue check shirt, a solid pocket square that picks up on the secondary color of the check (e.g., a light gray or tan) will look more sophisticated than a solid blue one.
2. The Power of the Pop
A pocket square is your opportunity to add a vibrant pop of color to an otherwise neutral outfit. If your blazer and shirt are both solid and muted (e.g., a navy blazer and a white shirt), a patterned pocket square with a bright color can be the focal point.
- Actionable Example: A navy blazer and a white shirt can be elevated with a vibrant pocket square featuring a bright floral or geometric pattern with a dominant color like coral or fuchsia. This small detail injects personality and life into the outfit.
3. Tonal Harmony
For a more subtle and elegant approach, choose a pocket square that is in the same color family as your blazer but a different shade. This creates a refined, monochromatic look.
- Actionable Example: A light blue linen blazer can be paired with a navy blue pocket square. The shared color family (blue) creates a sense of harmony, but the difference in shade provides just enough contrast to be interesting.
4. Pattern Play: A Balancing Act
When mixing patterns, the key is to vary the scale. If your shirt has a fine pinstripe, a pocket square with a larger pattern (e.g., a wide paisley or bold geometric) will work well. If your shirt is a bolder check, a smaller, more subtle pattern on the pocket square is the way to go.
- Actionable Example: A light blue gingham shirt and a solid navy blazer can be paired with a pocket square featuring a subtle, micro-dot pattern. The two patterns (gingham and micro-dot) are different enough in scale and design to coexist without clashing.
The Fold: A Matter of Attitude
The way you fold your pocket square is just as important as the fabric and color. The fold dictates the level of formality and the overall impression you create. For a casual brunch, you want a fold that looks effortless and unstudied. Avoid sharp, precise folds.
1. The Puff Fold: This is the go-to fold for a casual brunch. It’s relaxed, and adds a soft, rounded shape to your pocket. It’s the visual equivalent of a relaxed conversation.
- How to do it: Lay the pocket square flat. Pinch it in the center and lift it up. Gently tuck the corners into your pocket, letting the puffed-up center remain visible. Don’t worry about it being perfect; the messiness is the point.
2. The Classic Square Fold (or Presidential Fold): While often seen as formal, a crisp, clean square fold can work for a very modern, minimalist look. It’s best used with a solid, high-quality fabric like white linen or cotton.
- How to do it: Fold the pocket square in half, and then in half again, creating a small square. Place it in your pocket so that a straight line of fabric is visible. This is a very clean, deliberate look.
3. The Cagney Fold (or Reverse Puff): This is a more artistic, three-dimensional fold that adds character. It’s a great way to showcase a beautiful pattern or a luxurious texture.
- How to do it: Start with the puff fold, but instead of tucking the corners in, let them stand out a bit. The corners create a “crown” of sorts, giving the pocket square a more dynamic shape.
4. The Winged Puff Fold: This fold combines the softness of a puff with the structure of a point. It’s an excellent choice for a linen or cotton pocket square.
- How to do it: Start with the pocket square folded into a triangle. Fold the bottom corners up to the top point, creating a diamond shape. Then, fold the sides in, and tuck the bottom into your pocket. The two points will resemble wings.
Putting It All Together: Concrete Outfit Examples
Here are three complete outfit examples, each with a detailed breakdown of the pocket square choice and reasoning, to illustrate how to apply all these principles in a real-world scenario.
Example 1: The Classic Summer Brunch
- Outfit: Light beige unstructured linen blazer, white V-neck T-shirt, navy chinos, brown leather loafers.
-
Pocket Square Choice: A medium blue linen pocket square with a subtle white micro-dot pattern.
-
Reasoning: The linen fabric of the pocket square matches the texture of the blazer, creating a cohesive feel. The medium blue color complements the navy chinos without being an exact match. The subtle micro-dot pattern adds visual interest without being distracting. The puff fold is the perfect choice to maintain the relaxed vibe of the linen blazer.
Example 2: The Cool-Weather Brunch
- Outfit: Charcoal wool-blend unstructured blazer, light gray turtleneck sweater, dark wash slim-fit jeans, suede Chelsea boots.
-
Pocket Square Choice: A burgundy wool pocket square with a herringbone texture.
-
Reasoning: The wool fabric and texture of the pocket square perfectly match the cooler-weather aesthetic of the outfit. The deep burgundy color provides a pop of rich color against the neutral charcoal and gray tones. The winged puff fold adds a touch of sophistication that elevates the jeans without making the outfit feel too formal.
Example 3: The Pattern-Heavy Brunch
- Outfit: A navy check blazer (with a fine, small-scale check), a solid white shirt, olive chinos, and canvas sneakers.
-
Pocket Square Choice: A solid white cotton pocket square.
-
Reasoning: This is a classic example of balancing patterns. The blazer already has a pattern, so introducing another one on the pocket square would be too busy. A crisp white cotton pocket square provides a clean, elegant break. A square fold would be the most appropriate choice, as it mirrors the clean lines and deliberate style of the outfit.
Final Takeaways: The Unspoken Rules of Pocket Square Etiquette
-
Less is More: For a casual brunch, a simple, well-chosen pocket square is always better than a complex or overly flashy one.
-
Let Your Personality Shine: Don’t be afraid to choose a pocket square that reflects your personal style. If you love bold colors, this is your chance to use them.
-
Confidence is Key: The most important thing you can wear with a pocket square is confidence. If you feel good in what you’ve chosen, you’ll look good.
-
Keep a Collection: Having a small but versatile collection of pocket squares in different fabrics, colors, and patterns will allow you to be prepared for any outfit and any occasion. A good starter collection would include a white linen, a navy cotton, and a patterned silk or cotton blend.
-
Embrace Imperfection: For a casual look, a slightly messy or imperfect fold is part of the charm. It shows that you’re not trying too hard.
The pocket square for a casual brunch is a tool for self-expression, not a rigid rule. By focusing on the right fabric, a harmonious color and pattern, and a relaxed fold, you can master this small but powerful detail and elevate your style with ease.