The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Buttons That Elevate Your Bespoke Garment

The difference between a good bespoke garment and a truly great one often lies in the details. While fabrics and fit are undeniably the stars of the show, it’s the finishing touches—the buttons—that provide the final, resonant note. Far from a mere functional necessity, a well-chosen button is a powerful statement of taste, an exclamation point on a meticulously crafted piece. This guide will take you beyond the basics, offering a definitive, actionable framework for selecting buttons that not only complement but actively elevate your bespoke clothing.

The Art of the Button: A Foundation of Function and Form

Before diving into the specifics, it’s crucial to understand the dual nature of the button. First and foremost, it must be functional. A button that is too large for its buttonhole, too heavy for its fabric, or too fragile for its purpose is a failure, regardless of its aesthetic appeal. Secondly, it must be beautiful. It should harmonize with the garment’s color, texture, and style, speaking the same visual language as the rest of the piece.

Our process for choosing the perfect button will follow a clear hierarchy:

1. Function First: Ensuring the button is practical and durable for its intended use.

2. Harmonize with the Fabric: Matching the button’s material, weight, and texture to the garment’s textile.

3. Complement the Style: Aligning the button’s design with the garment’s overall aesthetic and formality.

4. Embrace Nuance: Utilizing color, sheen, and subtle details to create visual interest.

5. Placement and Quantity: Considering the number and positioning of buttons for a balanced look.

Let’s begin with the most critical aspect: functionality.

The Functional Imperatives: Matching the Button to the Garment’s Demands

A button that doesn’t work is a decorative flaw. Your first task is to ensure your choice is fundamentally sound.

Weight and Size: The Fabric-Button Equilibrium

The button’s weight and size must be in proportion to the fabric.

• Heavy Fabrics (Tweed, Melton Wool, Heavy Gabardine): These fabrics demand substantial buttons. A tiny, delicate mother-of-pearl button on a heavy tweed overcoat would look ludicrous and be prone to tearing out of the fabric. Use larger, heavier buttons made from materials like horn, corozo, or metal. The weight of the button should feel proportional to the weight of the garment itself. A 32L or 36L (20mm-23mm) button is often appropriate for a sport coat, while a 40L (25mm) or larger might be necessary for a heavy coat.

• Mid-Weight Fabrics (Super 120s Wool, Worsted, Flannel): This is the sweet spot for most bespoke suiting. The buttons should be a medium weight and size. Horn and corozo are the go-to choices here. The standard suit button size is typically 24L (15mm) for cuffs and 32L (20mm) for the front closure. A good rule of thumb: the button should not pull or distort the fabric when the garment is worn.

• Light Fabrics (Linen, Cotton, Fine Poplin): Use smaller, lighter buttons. Mother-of-pearl, shell, and certain resin buttons work well. A heavy horn button would drag down the fabric and look out of place. For a linen summer suit, a 24L or even a 20L (12.5mm) button on the cuff and a 30L (19mm) button on the front can feel more refined.

Actionable Tip: When in doubt, hold the button against the fabric. Does it feel balanced? Does it look like it belongs? Does it feel like it could withstand repeated use without stressing the cloth?

Shank vs. Sew-Through: Understanding the Attachment

Buttons are attached in one of two primary ways, each with a different visual and functional outcome.

• Sew-Through (2- or 4-Hole): The thread passes directly through the button and the fabric. This is the most common type and offers a clean, classic look. The absence of a shank means the button sits flush against the fabric, which is perfect for shirt cuffs and the front placket. However, on a jacket, a tailor will almost always create a thread shank by wrapping thread around the stitches, which allows the button to stand slightly off the fabric, making it easier to fasten and unfasten without bunching the material.

• Shank: The button has a loop on the back for the thread to pass through. This type of button naturally stands off the fabric. Shank buttons are more decorative and are often used on heavier garments like overcoats or peacoats, where a prominent button is desired. They are also common on denim jackets and blazers.

Actionable Tip: For a traditional suit or sport coat, opt for sew-through buttons and let your tailor create a neat thread shank. For a peacoat or a casual jacket where a bold button is a design feature, consider a metal or bone shank button.

The Aesthetic Imperatives: Harmonizing with Fabric, Color, and Style

Once the functional box is checked, it’s time to think about the button’s role as a design element.

Material Matters: A Symphony of Textures

The button’s material is the most significant aesthetic choice you will make. It should complement the fabric’s texture and sheen.

• Horn: The king of suiting buttons. Horn is made from the horns of animals, most commonly buffalo. Each button is unique, with natural color variations, swirls, and imperfections. The depth of color and natural sheen of horn complement the texture of wool perfectly.
  • Examples: A dark brown or charcoal gray horn button on a navy worsted wool suit provides a subtle, classic contrast. A lighter, almost milky horn button on a medium gray flannel suit offers a softer, more integrated look.
• Corozo: Often called “vegetable ivory,” corozo is made from the nut of the Tagua palm tree. It has a beautiful, natural grain and a matte finish. Corozo is a fantastic, slightly more casual alternative to horn. It takes dye exceptionally well, allowing for a wide range of colors.
  • Examples: A deep burgundy corozo button on a tan cotton suit for a pop of color. A matte black corozo button on a black linen suit for a sleek, understated aesthetic.
• Mother-of-Pearl (MOP) & Shell: Prized for its iridescent sheen and delicate beauty. Mother-of-pearl is the standard for high-end dress shirts and is also a great choice for lightweight suits, especially those made from linen or cotton. The way MOP catches the light adds a touch of luxury.
  • Examples: White mother-of-pearl on a light blue or white linen suit for a crisp, summery look. A darker, smoke-colored shell button on a charcoal suit can be a refined, unique alternative to horn.
• Metal: A classic choice for blazers and sport coats. Gold, silver, pewter, and brass buttons with crests or logos are a timeless way to add formality and character. They are also excellent for overcoats and military-style garments.
  • Examples: Polished brass buttons on a navy serge blazer. Pewter buttons on a heavy tweed jacket.
• Bone: A great choice for rustic or casual garments. Bone has a porous, matte texture and an off-white to cream color. It pairs beautifully with tweeds, moleskin, and other textured, rugged fabrics.
  • Examples: Bone buttons on a brown moleskin jacket for a heritage, workwear-inspired look.
• Resin/Plastic: While often considered a budget option, modern resin buttons can be high-quality and offer an almost infinite range of colors, finishes, and patterns. They are durable and consistent. They can mimic the look of more expensive materials, but for a bespoke garment, opting for natural materials adds to the garment’s overall value and story.

Actionable Tip: To decide on the material, consider the garment’s purpose. For a business suit, stick with horn. For a casual summer suit, consider MOP or corozo. For a classic blazer, metal is the only real choice.

Color and Sheen: The Subtle Statement

The button’s color and sheen can be used to create harmony or contrast.

• Harmonious Color: The button’s color is a few shades lighter or darker than the fabric. This creates a cohesive, understated look where the button blends seamlessly into the garment.
  • Examples: A dark brown horn button on a dark brown flannel suit. A charcoal gray horn button on a navy suit. This approach is perfect for formal business attire where you want the suit to be the focus, not the buttons.
• Contrasting Color: The button’s color is a stark contrast to the fabric. This draws the eye and makes the buttons a deliberate design feature.
  • Examples: A white mother-of-pearl button on a black linen suit. A bright tan corozo button on a dark olive green cotton jacket. Use this technique sparingly and with purpose, often for more casual or creative garments.
• The Power of Sheen: The button’s finish, whether matte or polished, affects how it interacts with light and the garment’s fabric.
  • Matte Finish (Corozo, Bone): A matte button creates a softer, more relaxed look. It’s an excellent choice for textured fabrics like flannel, tweed, or linen, where the fabric’s own texture is a key feature.

  • Polished/Glossy Finish (Horn, MOP, Metal): A polished button adds a touch of formality and luxury. The way a polished horn button or a mother-of-pearl button catches the light provides a subtle visual pop, perfect for sleek worsted wool suits.

Actionable Tip: Don’t be afraid of subtle contrast. A button that is a shade or two lighter or darker than the fabric provides just enough visual interest without being distracting. For a true bespoke feel, a subtle, off-color button that draws from a secondary color in the garment’s pattern (e.g., a burgundy horn button on a gray wool with a thin burgundy pinstripe) can be a brilliant detail.

The Button’s Profile and Edge: Beyond the Surface

The shape, profile, and edge of a button can dramatically change its character.

• The Classic Dish: The most common button profile. It has a slightly concave top surface, with the outer edge being the thickest part. This is the standard for most suit and jacket buttons.

• Flat: A perfectly flat button offers a clean, modern aesthetic. It’s often seen on more contemporary or minimalist garments.

• Domed: A convex, domed button is more prominent and decorative. It adds a traditional, almost military-like feel, and is often used with shank buttons on overcoats or blazers.

• The Edge: The edge of the button can be sharp and clean, or soft and rounded. A sharp-edged button feels more precise, while a rounded edge feels softer and more casual. Some buttons, especially horn, may have a beveled edge, which adds to their depth and visual interest.

Actionable Tip: For a traditional suit, a classic dish profile is a safe and elegant choice. For a more modern garment, consider a flat or domed button. The subtle details of the edge can be a point of pride, so examine a few options closely before making your final decision.

Strategic Placement and Quantity: The Final, Precise Touch

The number and placement of buttons on a garment are dictated by tradition and design.

The Jacket’s Front Closure: A Timeless Rule

• Two-Button: The most popular choice for modern suits. The button should sit on or just above your natural waist, creating a flattering V-shape. For a two-button jacket, only the top button is fastened.

• Three-Button: A more traditional and, for some, more conservative choice. The rule is “Sometimes, Always, Never” — the top button is optional, the middle button is always fastened, and the bottom button is never fastened. This style is often seen on classic British tailoring.

• Single-Button: A very modern or formal choice, often seen on dinner jackets and tuxedos. It creates a long, clean line. The button is fastened when standing.

• Double-Breasted: The double-breasted jacket has a more complex button arrangement. Common configurations include 6×2 (six buttons, two functional) or 4×2 (four buttons, two functional). The top button is always fastened, and the “jigger” button on the inside is also fastened to hold the jacket in place.

Actionable Tip: For a first or everyday suit, a two-button jacket is the most versatile and flattering choice. It offers a clean, modern silhouette.

The Cuffs: The Functional and Flamboyant

• Buttoning Cuffs: The most common cuff style. Four buttons are the standard for bespoke suits, though three or five are also seen. A well-tailored cuff will have “surgeon’s cuffs,” where the buttons are functional and can be unfastened.

• Kissing Buttons: A classic detail where the cuff buttons are sewn so they touch or slightly overlap. This is a subtle sign of bespoke craftsmanship.

• Stacked Buttons: Another bespoke detail, where the buttons are sewn with a slight overlap, creating a vertical “stack” on the cuff.

Actionable Tip: Opt for surgeon’s cuffs. It’s a hallmark of a truly custom garment. The choice between kissing or stacked buttons is a matter of personal preference, but both signal a high level of tailoring.

The Button Bible: Your Checklist for Flawless Selection

To synthesize everything we’ve discussed, here is a final checklist to guide your decision-making process:

1. Functionality: Is the button the right size and weight for the fabric? Does it sit correctly? Is the attachment method appropriate for the garment?

2. Material: Does the material complement the fabric? Horn for wool, MOP for linen, metal for blazers, corozo for a casual look.

3. Color: Does the color create the desired effect? A subtle, harmonious tone for formality, a stark contrast for a bold statement.

4. Sheen: Is the finish (matte or polished) appropriate for the fabric’s texture and the garment’s formality?

5. Profile: Does the button’s shape (dish, flat, domed) match the garment’s overall aesthetic?

6. Placement: Is the number and arrangement of buttons correct for the garment’s style and your body type?

The Final Word: A Button’s Legacy

The button is more than just a fastener; it’s a piece of the garment’s soul. It’s the moment where a tailor’s precision and your personal taste intersect. By following this guide, you will move beyond simply “picking” a button to “choosing” a button—a choice that reflects the care, quality, and personality woven into every thread of your bespoke garment. Take your time, consider the details, and you will find that the right buttons can be the final, perfect flourish on a masterpiece of personal style.