How to Choose Complementary Haircuts to Flatter Your Face Shape.

Choosing a haircut is more than just following the latest trend. It’s about finding a style that harmonizes with your unique features, specifically your face shape. The right haircut can accentuate your best assets, create balance, and give you a boost of confidence. The wrong one, however, can make your face seem wider, longer, or just a little “off.” This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and tools to confidently choose a complementary haircut that flatters your face shape, transforming your personal style from good to truly great.

The Foundation: Identifying Your Face Shape

Before you can choose a haircut, you need to know what you’re working with. Forget abstract descriptions; we’re going to get practical. The easiest way to determine your face shape is to stand in front of a mirror with your hair pulled back. Use a bar of soap, a dry-erase marker, or even a lipstick to trace the outline of your face. Pay attention to the following key features:

• Forehead: Is it wide or narrow?

• Cheekbones: Are they prominent or more subtle?

• Jawline: Is it angular and sharp, or soft and rounded?

• Face Length: Is your face longer than it is wide, or the opposite?

Once you have your outline, compare it to the following descriptions. Don’t worry about fitting perfectly into one category; most people have a blend of features. Identify the shape that most closely resembles your tracing.

• Oval: The forehead is slightly wider than the chin, and the cheekbones are the widest part of the face. The jawline is gently rounded, and the face is longer than it is wide. It’s the “ideal” shape because it’s so well-proportioned, making it versatile for many hairstyles.

• Round: The width and length of the face are roughly equal. The cheeks are full, and the jawline is soft with no sharp angles.

• Square: The length and width of the face are nearly equal. The jawline is strong and angular, and the forehead is broad.

• Heart/Triangle: The forehead is the widest part of the face. The cheekbones are high, and the face tapers to a narrow, pointed chin.

• Diamond: The forehead and jawline are narrow, and the cheekbones are the widest and most prominent part of the face.

• Oblong/Rectangle: The face is longer than it is wide. The forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are all roughly the same width. It’s similar to a square face but elongated.

Strategies for Each Face Shape: The Blueprint for Success

Once you’ve identified your face shape, you can apply a simple principle: create balance. For a round face, the goal is to add length and angles. For a long face, the goal is to add width. For a square face, the goal is to soften the angles. Below, we break down the definitive haircut strategies for each face shape.

Oval Face: The Universal Stylist’s Dream

With its balanced proportions, the oval face can pull off almost any haircut. The primary goal is to maintain that balance and not overwhelm the face with a style that is too heavy or disproportionate.

• What to Do:
  • Embrace Bangs: Oval faces look great with all types of bangs—blunt, side-swept, or curtain bangs. They can add a touch of personality and highlight your eyes.

  • Experiment with Layers: Layers work beautifully on oval faces, whether long, medium, or short. They add movement and dimension without disrupting the natural flow of the face.

  • Consider a Pixie Cut: The short, playful nature of a pixie cut highlights the cheekbones and balanced bone structure of an oval face.

  • Wear a Bob: A classic bob, whether chin-length or a longer lob (long bob), is a timeless choice that perfectly frames an oval face.

• What to Avoid:

  • While oval faces are versatile, be cautious with heavy, forward-facing styles that hide your face’s natural symmetry. Avoid styles that are too voluminous at the top, as they can make your face look longer than it is.
• Concrete Example: A chin-length blunt bob with subtle layers to add texture and movement. A long, layered style with curtain bangs that frame the eyes and cheekbones. A chic, tapered pixie cut.

Round Face: Creating Angles and Length

The goal for a round face is to visually slim it down and add definition. You want to create the illusion of length and angularity to counteract the face’s natural softness.

• What to Do:
  • Choose Long, Wispy Layers: Long, cascading layers that fall below the chin are your best friend. They draw the eye downward, creating a vertical line and making your face appear longer. Avoid layers that stop right at the chin, as they will add width.

  • Try Asymmetrical Cuts: A deep side part or a side-swept fringe breaks up the symmetry of a round face, creating a flattering angle. An asymmetrical bob, where one side is longer than the other, also works wonders.

  • Embrace Volume at the Crown: Adding volume and height at the crown of your head elongates the face. Think subtle beehive styles, or layers that create lift at the roots.

  • Consider a Bob That Falls Below the Chin: A long bob (lob) is an excellent choice. It gives you the structure of a bob without accentuating the roundness.

• What to Avoid:

  • Blunt, Chin-Length Bobs: This style cuts off right at the widest part of your face, which is a major no-go. It will make your face look even rounder.

  • Straight, Heavy Bangs: These will visually shorten your face and accentuate the width.

  • Slicked-Back Styles: Pulling your hair back completely exposes the full roundness of your face.

  • One-Length Hair: Without layers to add movement and break up the line, one-length hair can feel heavy and make your face seem wider.

• Concrete Example: A long layered haircut with a deep side part and subtle waves. A long bob (lob) that hits a few inches below the chin, with a side part. A pixie cut with some height at the crown and longer, side-swept bangs.

Square Face: Softening the Edges

A square face is defined by a strong, angular jawline and a broad forehead. The objective is to soften these sharp angles with layers, waves, and gentle curves.

• What to Do:
  • Embrace Soft Layers and Waves: Layers that start around the jawline and cascade down are ideal. They create a soft, gentle flow that counteracts the sharpness of the jaw. Waves and curls are also a great way to soften the angles.

  • Consider Long, Wispy Bangs: Curtain bangs or long, side-swept bangs that fall across the forehead soften the broadness and draw attention to the eyes.

  • Go for a Long Bob (Lob): A lob that ends well below the jawline is a perfect choice. It provides a clean, stylish look without accentuating the angular jaw.

  • Think About Updos with Soft Pieces: When wearing an updo, leave a few soft tendrils around your face to create a delicate, flattering frame.

• What to Avoid:

  • Blunt Bobs at the Jawline: A blunt, chin-length bob is the absolute worst choice for a square face. It creates a horizontal line right at the jaw, emphasizing its angularity.

  • Straight, Blunt Bangs: These bangs will draw a harsh line across your forehead and make your face look even squarer.

  • Slicked-Back, Severe Styles: These will expose the full width of your forehead and jaw, highlighting the angles you’re trying to soften.

  • One-Length, Straight Hair: This style hangs like a curtain, adding no softness or movement to the face.

• Concrete Example: A long, layered haircut with a side part and loose waves. A shaggy lob with a lot of texture and side-swept bangs. A soft pixie cut with a tousled top and wispy sideburns.

Heart/Triangle Face: Balancing the Widest Point

The heart-shaped face is widest at the forehead and tapers to a narrow chin. The goal is to minimize the width of the forehead and create the illusion of width at the jawline.

• What to Do:
  • Get a Chin-Length Bob: A bob that ends right at the chin adds fullness and width precisely where a heart-shaped face needs it most. This creates a more balanced, inverted triangle shape.

  • Embrace Bangs: Long, side-swept bangs or curtain bangs are perfect for covering a wide forehead. They draw the eye down and away from the top of the face.

  • Consider a Pixie Cut with Volume on the Sides: A pixie cut with fullness and texture at the temples and around the ears can create width and balance the narrow chin.

  • Long Hair with Layers Starting at the Chin: If you prefer long hair, ask for layers that start at or below the chin. This helps to create volume and draw the eye downward, away from the wide forehead.

• What to Avoid:

  • Short, Blunt Bangs: These will only emphasize the width of your forehead.

  • Super Short, Pixie Cuts: A very short, severe pixie will put the focus on your pointed chin.

  • Slicked-Back Ponytails or Buns: Pulling all your hair back will highlight the width of your forehead and the narrowness of your chin.

  • Voluminous Hair at the Crown: Adding height on top will make your forehead appear even wider.

• Concrete Example: A chin-length, textured bob with a side part. A long hairstyle with curtain bangs and layers that start at the jawline. A sleek, tapered pixie with longer sideburns.

Diamond Face: Highlighting Prominent Cheekbones

The diamond face is characterized by a narrow forehead and jawline, with wide, prominent cheekbones. The goal is to add fullness to the forehead and chin areas to balance out the width of the cheekbones.

• What to Do:
  • Go for a Bob or a Lob: A bob or lob that adds width at the jawline is an excellent choice. This helps to balance the narrow chin and broad cheekbones.

  • Embrace Bangs: Bangs are your secret weapon. Blunt bangs that fall just below the eyebrows can create the illusion of a wider forehead. Side-swept bangs also work to soften the prominent cheekbones.

  • Add Volume at the Crown: A bit of volume at the top of your head can help to widen the forehead area visually.

  • Try Layers Around the Chin: Layers that start around the jawline will add fullness and soften the face’s overall shape.

• What to Avoid:

  • Slicked-Back Hair: This will highlight the narrowness of your forehead and jaw, and the width of your cheekbones.

  • Hair Tucked Behind the Ears: This style will accentuate your prominent cheekbones.

  • Center Parts: A center part can emphasize the narrow forehead. A side part is almost always a better choice.

  • Short, Pixie Cuts: Unless the pixie cut has a lot of texture and volume around the forehead and sides, it can make the face look too narrow.

• Concrete Example: A chin-length bob with a bit of a wave to add width. A long haircut with side-swept bangs and layers that start at the jaw. A medium-length style with a side part and soft curls.

Oblong/Rectangle Face: Creating Width and Softness

An oblong face is similar to a square face but elongated. The key is to add width, and break up the face’s length, while also softening the angles of the jawline.

• What to Do:
  • Consider a Chin-Length Bob: A bob that hits right at the chin is an excellent choice for an oblong face. It adds width and creates a horizontal line that visually shortens the face.

  • Embrace Bangs, Especially Blunt or Curtain: Blunt bangs that cover the forehead are a must. They instantly break up the face’s length. Curtain bangs also work by creating softness and a horizontal line.

  • Add Layers and Volume on the Sides: Layers that start around the cheeks and jaw will add width to the face. Waves and curls are fantastic for this purpose.

  • Create a Center Part: A center part can work on an oblong face by breaking up the length and drawing the eye to the sides.

• What to Avoid:

  • Long, Straight Hair: Long, one-length hair that hangs straight down will only elongate your face.

  • High Ponytails or Buns: Styles that add height at the crown will make your face appear even longer.

  • Super Short, Pixie Cuts: These will expose the entire length of your face.

  • Heavy, Side-Swept Bangs: These can draw the eye horizontally, which can be good, but if they are too heavy, they can look disproportionate.

• Concrete Example: A textured, chin-length bob with blunt bangs. A medium-length haircut with waves and a center part. A long haircut with soft, side-swept layers and a lot of movement.

The Final Touches: Texture, Hair Type, and Lifestyle

While face shape is the most important factor, it’s not the only one. Your hair’s natural texture, thickness, and your lifestyle play crucial roles in the ultimate success of your haircut.

• Hair Texture:
  • Curly/Wavy: Embrace your natural texture. A curly bob can be a game-changer. Layers that are cut to enhance the curl pattern are key. Avoid blunt, straight cuts that will look triangular.

  • Straight: Straight hair works well with blunt cuts, which can look very polished and chic. However, if your face shape calls for softness, you’ll need to use strategic layering or styling to achieve it.

  • Fine: Fine hair can look thin and limp with long, heavy layers. A blunt bob or a shorter, layered cut with texturizing can add the illusion of thickness.

  • Thick: Thick hair can become heavy and overwhelming with a one-length cut. Layers are essential to remove weight and create movement.

• Lifestyle:

  • Low Maintenance: If you’re someone who wants to “wash and go,” a hairstyle that works with your natural texture is a must. A simple bob or a well-layered cut is a good bet.

  • High Maintenance: If you enjoy styling your hair, you can be more experimental. A pixie cut that requires daily styling or a detailed layered cut might be perfect for you.

• What to Tell Your Stylist: Don’t just say, “I want layers.” Be specific. Tell your stylist, “I have a round face, and I want a cut with long, face-framing layers that fall below the chin to create a more elongated look.” Bring pictures, not just of the haircut you want, but also of cuts you want to avoid. This gives your stylist a clear idea of your vision and helps them guide you to the perfect style.

Putting It All Together: Your Personal Action Plan

1. Trace and Identify: Go to a mirror, pull your hair back, and trace the outline of your face. Determine which of the six main face shapes you most closely resemble.

2. Understand the Goal: Based on your face shape, understand the core principle you need to apply: adding length, adding width, or softening angles.

3. Find Your “Dos” and “Don’ts”: Review the specific haircut strategies for your face shape. Note down the types of cuts, layers, and bangs that will work for you. Be just as clear about what to avoid.

4. Consider Your Hair and Lifestyle: Think about your hair’s natural texture, thickness, and the amount of time you’re willing to spend on styling. This will help you narrow down your choices.

5. Talk to a Professional: Schedule a consultation with a reputable hairstylist. Bring your notes and pictures. Be specific about your goals and listen to their professional advice. A great stylist will be able to make minor adjustments to a style to perfectly suit your face.