Choosing the right eyeliner color can dramatically enhance your eyes, making them pop and bringing your entire makeup look together. However, a mismatch can make you look washed out or even sickly. For those with cool undertones—characterized by hints of pink, red, or blue in your skin—the key is to select shades that complement this natural coolness. This in-depth guide will walk you through a practical, step-by-step process to master the art of selecting eyeliner colors that will make your cool-toned skin and eyes truly shine.
Understanding Your Cool Undertone: Beyond the Surface
Before diving into color recommendations, let’s solidify what a cool undertone is. It’s not about how fair or dark your skin is, but the subtle hue that comes from beneath the surface. You likely have a cool undertone if your veins appear blue or purple on your inner wrist, silver jewelry looks more flattering on you than gold, and your skin tends to burn rather than tan in the sun. This understanding is the foundation for all your makeup choices, not just eyeliner. Your goal is to find eyeliner colors that harmonize with this intrinsic coolness, rather than fighting against it.
The Foundation: Your Eyeliner Color Palette for Cool Undertones
Your definitive eyeliner color palette should be built around shades that either mirror or create a beautiful contrast with your cool-toned skin. Think of this as your core wardrobe of colors.
1. Black: The Timeless Classic, Reimagined
While black is a universal staple, not all blacks are created equal. For cool undertones, a true, deep black can sometimes feel harsh. The most flattering options are those with a cool base.
- Actionable Advice:
- Seek out a cool-toned black: Look for an eyeliner labeled “jet black,” “onyx,” or with a blue or green undertone. These will appear less stark and more integrated with your skin.
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Concrete Example: Instead of a soft, charcoal-like black, opt for a deep black with a subtle blue sheen. This blue will pull forward the cool tones in your skin and whites of your eyes, making them appear brighter.
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Pro-Tip: If a hard black line feels too severe, use a very dark charcoal or slate gray as your daily go-to. It provides definition without the intensity of a pure black.
2. Brown: The Everyday Enhancer
Brown is the most forgiving and versatile eyeliner color. For cool undertones, the wrong shade of brown can look muddy or orangey, which clashes with your skin.
- Actionable Advice:
- Avoid warm, red-based browns: Steer clear of shades with names like “copper,” “rust,” or “terracotta.” These have a warm, reddish base that will create a jarring contrast and make you look sallow.
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Embrace cool, taupe, or gray-based browns: Your best friends are browns with a gray or purple undertone. Look for shades labeled “taupe,” “ash brown,” “espresso,” or “chocolate.” These will provide soft definition without the warmth.
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Concrete Example: A medium-toned taupe eyeliner is the perfect daily alternative to black. It defines the lash line beautifully and subtly. For a more dramatic look, choose a deep espresso brown with no visible red undertones.
3. Gray: The Soft Smoker
Gray is an often-overlooked hero for cool undertones. It offers the definition of black but with a softer, more sophisticated feel.
- Actionable Advice:
- Choose a true gray, not a warm one: Ensure the gray you select doesn’t have any khaki or greenish-brown undertones. A charcoal or slate gray is ideal.
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Concrete Example: A smoky gray pencil used along the upper lash line and smudged slightly is perfect for a daytime smoky eye. It’s less intense than black but equally captivating. For the waterline, a light gray can open up the eyes without the harshness of a white pencil.
4. Navy and Blue: The Eye-Popping Contrast
Blue and navy are a cool-toned person’s secret weapon. They create a striking contrast, making the whites of your eyes appear whiter and the irises more vibrant.
- Actionable Advice:
- Opt for deep, saturated blues: A bright, neon blue can be fun for a statement, but for everyday enhancement, a rich navy or cobalt is your best bet.
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Concrete Example: Use a navy liquid or gel liner for a crisp wing. The deep blue will make your eyes sparkle. For a subtle pop, a navy pencil smudged into the outer corner of the lower lash line is incredibly effective.
5. Plum and Violet: The Sophisticated Statement
Plum and violet shades are fantastic for bringing out the green and hazel flecks in eyes and are particularly flattering for all cool undertones.
- Actionable Advice:
- Look for deep purples with a blue base: Avoid purples that lean too red, like a burgundy or wine color. A true plum or eggplant shade is the most flattering choice.
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Concrete Example: A plum eyeliner on both the upper and lower lash line can create an incredibly alluring, rich look. This color is also a stunning alternative to black for a dramatic evening look.
6. White and Nude: The Brightening Effect
While not used for creating a line, white and nude eyeliners are crucial tools for cool-toned individuals to brighten their eyes.
- Actionable Advice:
- Use on the waterline: A nude or off-white eyeliner on the lower waterline instantly makes eyes look bigger and more awake.
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Concrete Example: A soft nude pencil, rather than a stark white one, looks more natural on a cool-toned individual. It neutralizes any redness and creates the illusion of a wider, more open eye.
Matching Eyeliner to Your Eye Color: A Strategic Approach
Once you have your core color palette, the next level of mastery is to match eyeliner color not just to your skin, but specifically to your eye color. This isn’t about matching your eyes, but choosing a complementary color that makes your eyes stand out.
For Blue Eyes
The goal is to make the blue in your eyes look even more brilliant.
- Cool-toned Browns: A cool-toned brown or taupe creates a soft contrast that makes blue eyes pop without competing.
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Charcoal and Slate Gray: These shades enhance the icy quality of blue eyes beautifully.
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Plum and Mauve: A true plum with a blue undertone is the holy grail for blue eyes. The red in the plum (even if a cool-toned red) creates a striking contrast with the blue, making your eyes appear more vibrant.
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Concrete Example: A smoky plum eyeliner on the upper lash line, paired with a swipe of mascara, is a simple, yet highly effective way to make your blue eyes the focal point.
For Green Eyes
Green eyes have a special relationship with purples and browns.
- Plum and Eggplant: Purple shades are the complementary color to green on the color wheel. A deep plum eyeliner will make the green in your eyes look incredibly intense.
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Cool-toned Browns and Bronzes: An ash brown or a cool, khaki-toned bronze can bring out the warmth and flecks in green eyes.
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Concrete Example: A deep eggplant liquid liner for a winged look will create a mesmerizing contrast with green eyes. For a softer look, use a brown with a gray base and smudge it slightly.
For Hazel Eyes
Hazel eyes are a chameleon, with flecks of green, brown, and gold. The key is to choose an eyeliner that emphasizes the color you want to bring out.
- Navy and Blue: To emphasize the gold or amber flecks in your hazel eyes, a navy eyeliner is an excellent choice. The contrast will make those warm flecks stand out.
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Plum and Deep Purple: If you want to bring out the green in your hazel eyes, a deep plum or violet will be your best option.
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Cool-toned Browns and Grays: These are your safe, everyday colors that will define your eyes without overpowering them.
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Concrete Example: A navy blue eyeliner on the upper lash line will beautifully contrast with the warm flecks in your hazel eyes, making them look richer and more dimensional.
For Brown Eyes
Brown eyes are the most versatile. The goal is to make them look rich and deep.
- Deep Blues and Navy: A deep blue liner makes brown eyes look incredibly rich and deep. The contrast is sophisticated and stunning.
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Rich Plums and Violets: These shades bring out the subtle warmth and depth in brown eyes.
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Cool-toned Browns and Blacks: You can’t go wrong with a cool black or a deep espresso brown. They provide classic, beautiful definition without competing.
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Concrete Example: A rich navy liquid liner is a powerful choice for brown eyes, making them appear more luminous and defined. For a smoky eye, a blend of a cool-toned brown and a hint of a deep purple will be captivating.
Application Techniques: Making the Color Work for You
The color you choose is only half the battle. How you apply it is equally important.
1. The Classic Line
This is a clean, crisp line along the upper lash line.
- Actionable Advice: For a defined look, a liquid or gel liner is best. Choose a deep, cool-toned black, a navy, or a plum. For a softer, more diffused line, a pencil or a powder shadow applied with a wet angled brush works well.
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Concrete Example: Use a cool-toned, jet black liquid liner to create a precise wing. For a less dramatic but equally effective look, use a deep gray pencil to line the upper lashes, keeping the line thin and close to the lash line.
2. The Smudged Line
This technique creates a soft, smoky effect.
- Actionable Advice: Start with a pencil eyeliner. Draw a line, then use a smudger tool or a small, dense brush to blend the line softly.
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Concrete Example: Use a cool-toned brown or a charcoal gray pencil on both the upper and lower lash lines. Use a smudger brush to softly blend the line, creating a beautiful, diffused look that is perfect for day or night.
3. The Waterline Trick
Lining the waterline can dramatically change the look of your eyes.
- Actionable Advice: Use a creamy, waterproof pencil specifically designed for the waterline.
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Concrete Example: To make your eyes look bigger and brighter, use a nude or off-white pencil on the lower waterline. To create more drama and make your lashes look thicker, use a deep cool-toned black or brown pencil on the upper waterline (also known as tightlining).
Advanced Eyeliner Techniques for Cool Undertones
For those ready to go beyond the basics, these techniques will elevate your makeup game.
1. Double Liner
This technique involves using two different eyeliner colors.
- Actionable Advice: Use a cool-toned black or brown as your base line, then add a pop of color directly above or below it.
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Concrete Example: Create a thin wing with a deep black liquid liner. Directly above that, draw a thin line with a vibrant navy or plum liquid liner. The flash of color will be subtle but incredibly impactful.
2. The “Pop of Color”
This involves using a color in a specific, targeted area.
- Actionable Advice: Use a colored eyeliner only on the lower lash line or in the inner corner of your eye.
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Concrete Example: Line your lower lash line with a deep plum pencil. The rest of your eye can be left simple with just mascara. This technique adds a unexpected and beautiful pop of color without being overpowering.
3. The Reverse Cat Eye
This is a modern and edgy take on the classic cat eye.
- Actionable Advice: The focus is on the lower lash line. Use a cool-toned black or deep gray liner to create a strong line that extends into a wing from the lower lash line.
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Concrete Example: Line the lower lash line with a cool-toned black gel liner, extending it outwards and upwards into a sharp wing. Keep the upper lash line clean with just mascara. This creates a striking, modern look that is very flattering on cool undertones.
The Power of Combination: Eyeliner, Eyeshadow, and Mascara
Your eyeliner choice should not exist in a vacuum. It works best when harmonized with your eyeshadow and mascara.
- Eyeliner and Eyeshadow:
- Monochromatic: Pair a cool-toned brown eyeliner with cool-toned taupe or gray eyeshadows for a cohesive look.
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Complementary: Pair a navy eyeliner with a bronze or gold eyeshadow to create a beautiful, eye-catching contrast.
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Concrete Example: A matte, cool-toned eyeshadow in a shade like a dusty rose or a slate gray makes a perfect base for a navy blue or plum eyeliner. The subtle eyeshadow allows the eyeliner to take center stage.
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Eyeliner and Mascara:
- Classic: A black mascara is a universal choice and works with any eyeliner color.
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Softening: For a softer daytime look, a dark brown mascara can be a great alternative, especially when paired with a brown or gray eyeliner.
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Pro-Tip: For a truly impactful look, match your mascara to your eyeliner color. A navy mascara paired with a navy eyeliner creates an elegant, monochromatic effect that is incredibly flattering on cool undertones.
Conclusion: Your Definitive Eyeliner Strategy
Choosing the right eyeliner for cool undertones is a straightforward process when you understand the principles of color harmony. The key is to move away from generic “one size fits all” advice and instead focus on shades that naturally complement your skin’s unique characteristics.
Your go-to palette should consist of cool-toned blacks, grays, ash browns, and deep, blue-based colors like navy and plum. By understanding the specific interaction between these colors and your eye color, you can create looks that not only define your eyes but also make them appear brighter, bolder, and more beautiful. Follow these clear, actionable steps, and you’ll find that selecting the perfect eyeliner color is no longer a guessing game, but a powerful tool for self-expression.