Choosing the right numbing cream for microblading is a critical step that can significantly impact both your comfort during the procedure and the final quality of your brows. This guide will walk you through the essential factors and provide a clear, actionable framework to help you select the best product for your needs.
Understanding the Role of Numbing Cream in Microblading
Microblading involves creating tiny, hair-like strokes in the skin with a small blade, depositing pigment to create the illusion of fuller, perfectly shaped eyebrows. While this process is generally well-tolerated, it can be uncomfortable for many people. A topical anesthetic, or numbing cream, is applied to the skin before the procedure to minimize this sensation.
The effectiveness of a numbing cream is paramount. An underpowered cream can lead to a painful experience, causing you to flinch, which could compromise the artist’s work. A properly chosen and applied cream ensures you can relax, allowing the technician to work with precision and confidence, resulting in the beautiful, symmetrical brows you desire.
The Three Pillars of Numbing Cream Selection
To make an informed decision, you need to evaluate products based on three key pillars: active ingredients, formulation, and application method. These factors work together to determine a cream’s potency, safety, and suitability for the microblading process.
Pillar 1: Active Ingredients and Their Concentrations
The numbing effect in these creams comes from local anesthetic agents. The most common and effective ones for microblading are lidocaine, prilocaine, and benzocaine. Your choice of a cream should be heavily influenced by the type and concentration of these ingredients.
Lidocaine: This is the most common and powerful anesthetic used in topical creams. It works by blocking nerve signals in the skin, preventing pain sensations from reaching the brain.
- Optimal Concentration: For microblading, look for a lidocaine concentration between 4% and 5%. Anything lower may not be potent enough, and higher concentrations are typically reserved for more invasive medical procedures and are not necessary for microblading.
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Example: A cream labeled “5% Lidocaine” is a strong candidate. Be cautious of creams that state “Lidocaine HCl” or “Lidocaine Hydrochloride” – this is simply a more stable form of lidocaine, but the concentration percentage is the crucial number.
Prilocaine: Often used in combination with lidocaine, prilocaine is another effective topical anesthetic. It has a slightly different mechanism of action and can extend the numbing effect when combined with other agents.
- Optimal Concentration: A typical concentration is 2.5%, usually paired with an equal amount of lidocaine (e.g., 2.5% lidocaine and 2.5% prilocaine).
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Example: A popular combination is an EMLA (Eutectic Mixture of Local Anesthetics) cream, which contains this exact ratio. This combination is known for its deep and long-lasting numbing effect.
Benzocaine: This is a weaker anesthetic compared to lidocaine and prilocaine. It works on nerve endings at the surface of the skin.
- Optimal Concentration: Benzocaine is usually found in concentrations of 5% or higher.
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Practical Application: Benzocaine is less common as the primary numbing agent for microblading. It’s sometimes included in a triple-anesthetic formula (Lidocaine, Prilocaine, Benzocaine – “BLT”) to provide a faster-acting numbing effect. For microblading, the main workhorse should still be lidocaine and/or prilocaine.
Triple Anesthetic Creams (BLT Creams): These are considered the “gold standard” for some professionals. The combination of Benzocaine, Lidocaine, and Tetracaine (another anesthetic) provides a multi-layered numbing effect: benzocaine for quick surface numbing, lidocaine for deeper numbing, and tetracaine for a prolonged effect.
- Example: You might see a product with a formula like “20% Benzocaine, 6% Lidocaine, 4% Tetracaine.” This is a potent combination, but the high concentration of benzocaine might cause some to be more sensitive to it.
Actionable Advice: Check the label for the active ingredients and their percentages. Prioritize creams with 4-5% Lidocaine or a combination of 2.5% Lidocaine and 2.5% Prilocaine. If you have a high pain tolerance, a 4% lidocaine cream might suffice. If you’re particularly sensitive, a combination or a potent 5% lidocaine cream is a safer bet.
Pillar 2: Formulation and pH Balance
The way a numbing cream is formulated matters. The vehicle (the base of the cream) determines how well the active ingredients penetrate the skin. The pH balance is also critical, as it affects both absorption and potential skin irritation.
Creams vs. Gels vs. Ointments:
- Creams: Most numbing creams are formulated as creams because they are easy to apply and spread, and they are generally less greasy. They are a good all-around choice.
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Gels: Gels tend to be absorbed faster than creams and may be preferred for quicker onset. However, they can also dry out faster.
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Ointments: Ointments are thicker and can be harder to apply evenly. They are very effective at keeping the skin moist, which can aid in absorption, but their greasy nature can be a drawback.
pH Balance: The skin’s natural pH is slightly acidic, around 4.5 to 5.5. A numbing cream with a pH close to this range is less likely to cause irritation. Creams that are too alkaline or too acidic can cause redness or a stinging sensation, which is the last thing you want before a microblading session.
- Practical Example: You won’t typically see the pH listed on the product packaging, but you can infer it by the product’s reputation and its intended use. Products specifically marketed for cosmetic procedures like microblading are generally formulated with a safe pH. Avoid creams made for other purposes, like hemorrhoid treatment, as their pH and formulation are not optimized for facial skin.
Skin Sensitivity and Allergies:
- Allergy to Lanolin or Parabens: Some people are sensitive to common ingredients like lanolin (a common emollient in ointments) or parabens (preservatives). Look for “lanolin-free” or “paraben-free” labels if you have these sensitivities.
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Vasoconstrictors: Some numbing products include a vasoconstrictor, such as epinephrine. This helps to reduce blood flow to the area, which can minimize bleeding during the procedure and extend the numbing effect. This is a big plus for microblading.
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Example: A product labeled “5% Lidocaine with Epinephrine” is a superior choice. The epinephrine helps the pigment to implant more cleanly with less blood to blur the lines.
Actionable Advice: Look for a cream or gel formulation. Read the ingredient list for any known allergens like lanolin. If possible, choose a product that includes a vasoconstrictor like epinephrine to improve the final result of your microblading.
Pillar 3: Application Method and Timing
The best numbing cream in the world won’t work if it’s not applied correctly. The application method and timing are just as important as the product itself.
Pre-Procedure Application:
- Clean Skin is Key: The numbing cream must be applied to clean, dry skin. Any residual oils or makeup will create a barrier and prevent the cream from penetrating. Use a gentle, oil-free cleanser before applying.
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Generous, Even Layer: Don’t skimp. Apply a thick, even layer of the cream to the entire eyebrow area. The goal is to saturate the skin’s surface.
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The Power of Occlusion: To enhance absorption, the cream needs to be covered with an occlusive dressing. This is a fancy term for a non-porous material that seals in the cream. Plastic wrap (like cling film) is the most common and effective option. Cut a small piece, place it over the cream, and tape it down. This prevents the cream from drying out and forces the active ingredients deep into the skin.
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Timing: This is where many people make a mistake. The cream needs time to work. A general rule of thumb is to leave it on for at least 30-45 minutes before the procedure. Some potent creams may require 60-90 minutes. Consult the product’s instructions and your microblading artist for their recommended timing.
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Example: You should arrive at your appointment with a clean face. Your artist will apply the cream and occlude it for the required time before starting. Some artists may ask you to apply it at home before you arrive. Follow their specific instructions.
Mid-Procedure Application (Secondary Numbing):
- After the initial outline is created, the artist will wipe off the cream and begin the actual blading. As the skin is now open, a different type of numbing product is often used – a liquid gel or spray.
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The Difference: This “secondary numbing” is designed to work on broken skin and contains a vasoconstrictor to reduce bleeding. The formulation is different from the pre-procedure cream.
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Example: The artist might apply a product like “Sustaine Blue Gel” or “Tag #45,” which are popular secondary numbing agents. You don’t need to purchase this; your artist will have it on hand.
Actionable Advice: Communicate with your microblading artist about their preferred numbing cream and application protocol. Ask if they provide the cream or if you are expected to bring your own. Always follow their specific instructions on application and timing, as they know their process best.
A Scannable Checklist for Choosing Your Numbing Cream
- Active Ingredients:
- Primary Choice: 4-5% Lidocaine.
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Excellent Alternative: 2.5% Lidocaine + 2.5% Prilocaine (EMLA).
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Superior Option: A combination of Lidocaine with a vasoconstrictor like Epinephrine.
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Formulation:
- Choose a cream or gel for easy application.
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Avoid thick, greasy ointments unless specifically recommended by your artist.
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Check for “lanolin-free” or “paraben-free” if you have sensitivities.
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Application:
- Ensure the cream is designed for use on intact skin (pre-procedure).
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Communicate with your artist about their protocol.
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Be prepared to apply a thick, even layer and occlude with plastic wrap for 30-90 minutes.
Final Thoughts on Choosing Your Numbing Cream
Selecting the right numbing cream is not a matter of guesswork. It is a strategic decision that empowers you to have a comfortable and successful microblading experience. By focusing on the active ingredients, the product’s formulation, and the correct application, you are setting the stage for a great result. Don’t be swayed by low-cost, generic products. A few extra dollars spent on a high-quality, reputable numbing cream is a small investment for the lasting beauty and comfort of your new eyebrows.