Choosing the perfect pair of boyfriend jeans for a relaxed fit can feel like a game of chance. You want that effortless, borrowed-from-the-boys look—not a baggy, shapeless mess. The goal is a fit that drapes just right, offering comfort and style without overwhelming your frame. This guide is your definitive blueprint for navigating the world of boyfriend jeans, ensuring you select the ideal size every time. We’ll break down the process into practical, actionable steps, moving beyond the standard size chart to uncover what truly works for your body type.
Understanding the Boyfriend Jean Philosophy: It’s Not Your Skinny Jeans
Before we dive into sizing, let’s establish a foundational truth: boyfriend jeans are not meant to be snug. The signature look is a relaxed, slightly slouchy fit through the leg and hip, often with a mid-to-low rise and a cuffed hem. The fabric should drape, not cling. This distinction is crucial because it influences how you approach sizing. Sizing down might seem intuitive for a slimmer silhouette, but it can compromise the very essence of the style. The goal isn’t to make them fit like a straight-leg jean; it’s to embrace the looseness while maintaining a flattering shape.
Step 1: The Initial Assessment—Sizing Up Your Standard Jeans
Your first data point is your current denim collection. Start with a pair of non-stretch, rigid-denim jeans that fit you well at the waist. This is your baseline. If you’re a consistent size 28 in a brand like Levi’s 501s, this is a strong indicator.
- For a Truly Relaxed Fit: Start with your standard waist size. If you wear a 28, begin your search with a size 28. This will give you the most authentic “boyfriend” drape without being excessively large.
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For a Slightly Leaner Look: Consider sizing down just one size. If you’re a 28, try a 27. Be cautious here, as this can make the fit closer to a straight-leg and may compromise the “relaxed” aesthetic. The waist will be tighter, but the hip and thigh area should still retain some of the slouch.
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For an Oversized, Utterly Slouchy Look: Sizing up one size can achieve a more dramatically loose fit. A size 28 wearer would try a 29. This works best for taller individuals or those with a very narrow frame, as it can otherwise overwhelm a petite body.
Example: Sarah, a size 27 in her Madewell Perfect Vintage Jeans, wants a classic relaxed boyfriend fit. Her starting point is a size 27. She’s also curious about a slightly leaner look, so she tries a 26. The 27 fits perfectly—slouchy but not baggy. The 26 is too tight in the waist, losing the relaxed feel.
Step 2: The Hip, Thigh, and Rise Trifecta—Mastering Key Measurements
Boyfriend jeans are defined by their fit, and the waist measurement alone is not enough. You must consider the hip, thigh, and rise.
- Hip Measurement: Measure the widest part of your hips. This is a critical measurement because it dictates how the jean drapes over your lower body. A well-fitting boyfriend jean should have a hip measurement that is several inches larger than your actual hip measurement, allowing for that signature slouch.
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Thigh Measurement: Measure around the fullest part of your thigh. Boyfriend jeans should have significant extra room here—at least 2-3 inches of slack. If the thigh area is taut, the jeans are too small, and you’ve lost the relaxed fit.
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Rise Measurement: The rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. Most boyfriend jeans have a mid-to-low rise (typically 9-11 inches). A higher rise can create a more streamlined look but may feel less authentically “boyfriend.” Ensure the rise is comfortable and doesn’t pinch.
Actionable Tip: When shopping online, find the brand’s size chart and cross-reference your measurements. Look for the “hip” and “thigh” measurements for the corresponding size. Don’t just rely on the waist number.
Example: Maria measures her hips at 38 inches. She’s looking at a size 28 boyfriend jean with a stated hip measurement of 41 inches. This 3-inch difference is a strong indicator of a good, relaxed fit. She also checks the thigh measurement, which is 24 inches for the jean, while her thigh is 21 inches. The 3-inch difference here confirms the slouchy fit she wants.
Step 3: The Fabric Factor—Understanding Stretch vs. Rigid Denim
The fabric composition of boyfriend jeans is a major determinant of their fit and how they will wear over time.
- 100% Cotton (Rigid Denim): This is the classic, authentic choice. Rigid denim will feel stiff at first but will mold to your body over time, breaking in beautifully. The fit you get in the fitting room is the truest representation of the size. They won’t stretch out significantly throughout the day, which means you can trust the initial fit.
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Denim with Stretch (Elastane/Spandex Blend): These jeans are more comfortable from the get-go and offer more give. However, they are prone to stretching out over a few hours of wear. If you choose a stretchy boyfriend jean, you may need to size down one size from your usual to account for this. The goal is for them to feel slightly snug at the waist and hip initially, knowing they will loosen up.
Practical Application: If you’re buying 100% cotton boyfriend jeans, buy the size that feels comfortable but not baggy on the first try. If you’re buying a pair with 2% elastane, start with the size that feels just slightly snug.
Example: Jessica is trying on two pairs of boyfriend jeans. Pair A is 100% cotton, size 28. It fits perfectly—it’s relaxed but holds its shape. Pair B is 98% cotton, 2% spandex, also a size 28. It feels a bit too loose right away. She correctly assumes it will stretch out more and tries a size 27 in Pair B, which feels slightly snug, a perfect starting point for a stretchy denim.
Step 4: The In-Store Test—The Walk, Sit, and Squat Method
When you’re physically in the fitting room, don’t just stand and stare at yourself in the mirror. You need to test the jeans’ functionality and comfort.
- The Waistband Check: Can you fit two fingers comfortably inside the waistband at the back? This is the ideal gap. If you can fit more, they’re likely too big. If you can’t fit any, they’re too small.
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The Crotch Test: The crotch should hang slightly—it’s the nature of the style. However, it shouldn’t hang so low that it looks awkward. The “crotch curve” should be comfortable and not constricting.
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The Walk Test: Walk around the fitting room. Do the jeans slide down? This is a clear sign they are too big. Do they feel comfortable, or are they restricting your movement?
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The Sit Test: Sit down on a bench or chair. Do the jeans feel comfortable around your waist and thighs? A good pair of boyfriend jeans shouldn’t dig into your stomach when you sit. The waist should still have some give.
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The Squat Test: Perform a shallow squat. This tests the give in the hips and thighs. The jeans should not feel like they are about to rip. They should move with you, albeit in a relaxed way.
Example: Emily is trying on a size 29 boyfriend jean. She does the two-finger waistband check and finds she can fit her whole hand in the back. When she walks, the jeans slide down noticeably. She immediately knows this size is too big and tries a 28, which passes all her tests with flying colors.
Step 5: The Length and Cuff Conundrum—Finding Your Perfect Hem
Boyfriend jeans are almost always cuffed. The length you choose should be based on where you want the hem to hit when cuffed.
- For a Classic Look: The cuff should hit just above or at the ankle. This creates a flattering line and allows you to show off your footwear.
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For a Cropped Look: A higher cuff, hitting mid-calf, can be a great option, especially for showing off statement boots or heels.
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The Inseam Measurement: When shopping, pay attention to the inseam. A typical inseam for a boyfriend jean is around 28-30 inches, allowing for a cuff. If you’re petite, you may need a shorter inseam (26-27 inches) to avoid a bulky cuff. Taller individuals might need a longer inseam (31+ inches).
Actionable Tip: If the inseam is too long, the cuff will be too thick and heavy. If you’re petite and the jeans have a long inseam, you may be better off looking for a brand with a “petite” size range or getting them professionally hemmed to the right length before cuffing.
Example: Alex is 5’4″ and tries on a pair of boyfriend jeans with a 30-inch inseam. When she cuffs them twice, the cuff is very thick and hits too low on her ankle. She then tries a pair with a 28-inch inseam, and the cuff is the perfect thickness, hitting just above her ankle.
A Quick Guide to Common Body Types and Boyfriend Jeans
Finding the right size is also about understanding how the style interacts with different body shapes.
- For a Curvy/Pear Shape: The key is to find a pair that accommodates your hips and thighs without gaping at the waist. Look for a style with a slightly higher rise to prevent waistband gaping. Sizing based on your hip measurement is crucial here. A one-size-up approach can often work well, giving you the necessary room in the hips and thighs while the waist can be cinched with a belt.
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For a Straight/Rectangle Shape: You can easily wear a true-to-size or even a slightly oversized fit to create the illusion of curves. The relaxed fit will add volume to your hips and thighs. The key is to avoid a fit that is too baggy, which can make your frame appear smaller and less defined.
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For a Petite Frame: The biggest challenge is avoiding being overwhelmed by the fabric. Look for styles with a slimmer leg opening and a shorter inseam. Don’t be afraid to try a size down from your standard for a more tailored, yet still relaxed, fit. The goal is slouch, not shapelessness.
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For an Apple Shape: A boyfriend jean with a mid-rise will be your friend. Avoid a low-rise, which can cut you off at the widest part of your torso. Focus on a comfortable waistband that doesn’t pinch. The relaxed fit through the hip and thigh will be naturally flattering, balancing your upper body.
Final Thoughts: Trusting Your Gut and the Mirror
Ultimately, the right size in boyfriend jeans is the one that makes you feel confident and comfortable. The feeling should be one of effortless style, not discomfort. Don’t get fixated on the number on the tag. Use it as a starting point, but let the fit in the mirror and the feel on your body be the final arbiters. A well-chosen pair of boyfriend jeans will become a staple in your wardrobe, a go-to for casual comfort and cool-girl style. By following these practical steps, you’ll eliminate the guesswork and confidently select the perfect pair every time, embracing the relaxed elegance that this iconic style has to offer.