Choosing the right vintage footwear can elevate an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. It’s a skill that blends an understanding of fashion history with modern sensibilities, allowing you to create a unique and personal style. This guide will walk you through the practical steps of selecting the perfect vintage shoes to complement your outfit, focusing on actionable advice and concrete examples. We’ll delve into the nuances of different eras, materials, and styles, helping you build a versatile and stylish vintage footwear collection.
Understanding the Eras: A Primer on Vintage Footwear Styles
Before you can choose the right pair of vintage shoes, you need a basic understanding of the eras they come from. Each decade had its own distinct aesthetic, driven by cultural shifts, economic conditions, and technological advancements. Knowing these foundational styles will empower you to make informed decisions that enhance your overall look.
The Roaring ’20s: The Dawn of the T-Strap and Mary Jane
The 1920s were a period of liberation and modernity, and women’s footwear reflected this newfound freedom. The ankle-baring flapper dresses made shoes a more prominent part of an outfit.
- Key Styles: T-strap heels, Mary Janes, and spectator shoes were the hallmarks of this era. T-straps, with their characteristic strap running down the center of the foot and across the ankle, were designed to keep shoes securely on while dancing the Charleston. Mary Janes, often featuring a single strap across the instep, were simple yet elegant. Spectator shoes, known for their two-tone construction, were a popular choice for both men and women.
-
How to Style: Pair a T-strap heel with a drop-waist dress for an authentic Art Deco look. For a modern twist, wear them with cropped trousers or a midi skirt to highlight the intricate strap design. Mary Janes are incredibly versatile; they can be styled with a flowy midi dress for a feminine look or with cuffed jeans for a quirky, casual vibe.
The Glamorous ’30s: The Rise of the Peep-Toe
The 1930s, despite the Great Depression, saw a shift towards more sophisticated and elongated silhouettes. Footwear became more refined, with a focus on graceful lines and practical comfort.
- Key Styles: Peep-toe heels and platform shoes began to gain popularity. The peep-toe, which exposed just a hint of the wearer’s toes, added a touch of subtle glamour. Platform shoes offered height without sacrificing comfort. Oxford shoes and saddle shoes also remained staples.
-
How to Style: A peep-toe heel is the perfect companion for a bias-cut satin gown, creating a look that is both slinky and elegant. They also work beautifully with high-waisted wide-leg trousers, a classic ’30s silhouette. Saddle shoes are ideal for a preppy, casual look; wear them with a pleated skirt and a simple sweater for a timeless ensemble.
The War-Torn ’40s: Wedges and Utilitarian Chic
During World War II, rationing and material shortages influenced fashion significantly. Footwear became more practical and less decorative, leading to the popularization of materials like cork and wood.
- Key Styles: The wedge heel became ubiquitous, offering height and stability while conserving leather. Open-toe sandals and slingbacks were also popular, providing a comfortable and practical alternative to closed-toe heels.
-
How to Style: The cork wedge is the quintessential ’40s shoe. Pair it with a classic A-line skirt and a simple blouse for a look that is both historically accurate and effortlessly chic. A slingback heel is a great choice for a fitted pencil skirt and a structured jacket, creating a polished and professional aesthetic.
The Fabulous ’50s: The Reign of the Stiletto and Kitten Heel
The post-war era brought a return to femininity and a focus on the hourglass silhouette. Footwear became more overtly glamorous and sophisticated.
- Key Styles: The stiletto heel, with its impossibly thin spike heel, became the ultimate symbol of femininity and sex appeal. Kitten heels offered a more demure, comfortable alternative. Classic pumps and ballet flats also became fashion staples.
-
How to Style: A pair of pointy-toe stilettos is the perfect match for a New Look-inspired full-skirted dress. For a more casual look, ballet flats are the ideal complement to Capri pants and a striped top, a la Audrey Hepburn. Kitten heels are incredibly versatile and can be worn with everything from pencil skirts to cropped cigarette pants.
The Swinging ’60s: Go-Go Boots and Mod Mania
The 1960s were a period of rebellion and youth-driven fashion. Hemlines rose, and so did shoe styles, leading to bold, graphic designs.
- Key Styles: The go-go boot, a mid-calf or knee-high boot, was the defining shoe of the mod movement. Mary Janes with chunky block heels, and low-heeled loafers were also prominent.
-
How to Style: The go-go boot is a statement piece. Wear it with a mini-skirt or a shift dress to create a classic mod silhouette. For a less dramatic look, a block-heeled Mary Jane pairs beautifully with A-line mini dresses and patterned tights. Loafers are a great choice for a more preppy, understated outfit.
The Disco ’70s: Platforms and Bohemian Vibes
The 1970s were all about self-expression and pushing boundaries. Footwear reflected this free-spirited attitude, with an emphasis on height and bold materials.
- Key Styles: Platform shoes, in both sandals and boots, were the undisputed king of the disco era. Clogs, often with wooden soles, and espadrilles were popular for their bohemian, earthy vibe.
-
How to Style: A pair of platform sandals or boots is a must-have for a ’70s-inspired look. Wear them with flared jeans and a bohemian blouse, or with a maxi dress for a more romantic, free-spirited aesthetic. Clogs are perfect for a casual, earthy outfit; style them with wide-leg corduroys and a chunky knit sweater.
The Art of the Match: How to Choose Vintage Footwear for Your Outfit
Now that you have a grasp of the historical styles, let’s get into the practical application. Choosing the right vintage footwear is not just about picking a shoe from a specific era; it’s about creating a cohesive and intentional look.
Match by Silhouette and Proportion
The silhouette of your outfit is the most important factor to consider when choosing footwear. The shoes should balance the overall shape of your clothes.
- Example 1: The A-Line Skirt. An A-line skirt, with its wider hem, creates a balanced silhouette. It pairs well with a variety of shoe styles. A kitten heel will add a touch of demure femininity, while a block heel will ground the look and add a modern edge. Avoid overly chunky platform heels, which can make the look feel heavy and unbalanced.
-
Example 2: The Wide-Leg Trouser. Wide-leg trousers are a power statement. They require a shoe that can hold its own. A platform shoe from the ’70s or a substantial pump from the ’40s will work well. The heel height is crucial here; a flat shoe will cause the pants to drag, while a high heel will give the illusion of longer legs.
-
Example 3: The Mini-Skirt. A mini-skirt is all about showcasing the legs. Go-go boots or a low-heeled Mary Jane will complement the youthful, mod aesthetic. Avoid delicate, strappy sandals, which can get lost and look out of proportion.
Match by Material and Texture
The material of your vintage shoes should complement the fabric of your outfit. A thoughtful combination of textures can make an outfit feel rich and well-considered.
- Example 1: A Tweed Skirt. Tweed is a classic, textured fabric. Pair it with a sturdy leather spectator shoe or a suede pump. The combination of textures creates a sophisticated, academic feel. Avoid patent leather, which can look too shiny and modern next to the rougher tweed.
-
Example 2: A Silk Dress. Silk is a delicate and luxurious fabric. It calls for a shoe that is equally refined. A satin T-strap heel from the ’20s or a delicate lace-up bootie would be a perfect match. The goal is to avoid anything heavy or clunky that would overpower the elegance of the silk.
-
Example 3: Denim. Denim, especially vintage denim, has a rugged, durable quality. It pairs well with equally robust footwear. Think saddle shoes, loafers, or even a pair of sturdy cowboy boots for a Western-inspired look. A delicate kitten heel would clash with the casual, hard-wearing nature of the denim.
Match by Color and Pattern
Color is a powerful tool in styling. Vintage shoes often come in unique and vibrant colorways and patterns, and learning how to incorporate them is key.
- Example 1: The Neutral Outfit. If your outfit is primarily neutral (black, white, gray, beige), use your vintage footwear to add a pop of color or a unique pattern. A pair of red leather pumps from the ’50s or a two-tone spectator shoe will be the focal point of the look.
-
Example 2: The Patterned Dress. When your outfit features a bold pattern, it’s often best to choose a shoe in a solid color that is pulled from the pattern. For instance, if you have a floral dress with a dark green background, a pair of dark green pumps would be a perfect, seamless choice. Avoid introducing another pattern, as it can create a busy and chaotic look.
-
Example 3: The All-Color Look. If you’re wearing an outfit with multiple colors, you have a few options. You can choose a neutral shoe (like a black or brown boot) to ground the look, or you can pick a shoe in a complementary color to create a playful, color-blocked effect. For example, a royal blue dress could be paired with a mustard yellow heel for a bold contrast.
The Practicalities of Vintage Footwear: Sizing, Condition, and Care
Buying vintage footwear is not the same as buying new shoes. There are important practical considerations you need to be aware of to ensure you make a smart and lasting purchase.
Sizing and Fit
Vintage sizing can be unpredictable. Shoe sizes have changed over the decades, and a size 7 from the ’50s may not be the same as a modern size 7.
- Actionable Advice:
- Measure your feet: Before you start shopping, measure the length and width of your feet.
-
Ask for measurements: When shopping online, always ask the seller for the exact measurements of the shoe’s insole, both length and width.
-
Know your era: Generally, shoe widths were narrower in the early to mid-20th century. If you have a wider foot, you may need to size up or seek out styles from the ’70s and ’80s when shoes tended to be more forgiving.
-
Try on when possible: If you have the opportunity to buy from a physical vintage store, try the shoes on and walk around in them to ensure a comfortable fit.
Condition and Quality
The condition of vintage footwear can range from deadstock (never worn) to well-loved and worn. You need to know what to look for to avoid a poor purchase.
- Actionable Advice:
- Inspect the soles: Look for wear and tear on the soles. Are they original? Are they cracked or separating?
-
Check the heels: The heel is a common point of weakness. Make sure it’s securely attached and not wobbly. On a stiletto, check the heel tip; it’s a small piece of plastic or metal that can be easily replaced, but its absence can indicate heavy wear.
-
Examine the upper: Look for scuffs, cracks, or peeling on the leather or fabric. Cracks in leather can be difficult to repair.
-
Inside matters: Check the insole and lining for signs of wear, sweat stains, or odor. A good vintage shop will have cleaned their items, but it’s always good to check.
Caring for Your Vintage Shoes
Vintage footwear, especially leather and suede, requires special care to maintain its condition.
- Actionable Advice:
- Clean gently: Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe away dust and dirt. For leather, use a high-quality leather cleaner and conditioner. For suede, use a suede brush to restore the nap.
-
Store properly: Store your vintage shoes in a cool, dry place. Stuff them with acid-free tissue paper to help them maintain their shape. Avoid storing them in plastic bags, which can trap moisture and cause mildew.
-
Know your cobbler: Find a skilled cobbler who is experienced in working with vintage items. They can replace worn soles and heels, and make minor repairs that will extend the life of your shoes.
Building a Vintage Footwear Capsule Collection
You don’t need a massive collection of vintage shoes to create a versatile wardrobe. By strategically choosing a few key styles, you can have a shoe for every occasion.
- The Go-To Everyday Shoe: A pair of ’60s block-heeled loafers or ’30s saddle shoes in a neutral color (black, brown, or two-tone) is an excellent choice for daily wear. They are comfortable, stylish, and can be paired with everything from jeans to skirts.
-
The Special Occasion Heel: Invest in a classic ’50s pump or a ’20s T-strap heel in a timeless color like black, navy, or a metallic. This is your statement shoe for weddings, parties, or any event where you want to feel a little more glamorous.
-
The Playful Wildcard: This is where you can have fun. Find a pair of ’70s platform boots in a fun color, a pair of ’40s wedges in cork, or a pair of colorful ’60s go-go boots. This is the shoe you pull out when you want to make a statement and show off your personality.
By following this guide, you can confidently navigate the world of vintage footwear. It’s about more than just buying old shoes; it’s about understanding history, appreciating craftsmanship, and using these unique pieces to express your personal style in a way that is both authentic and fresh.