How to Contour for Beginners: Your Ultimate Guide

by

Sculpt Your Features: The Ultimate Guide to Contouring for Beginners

Have you ever looked at a photo of a celebrity with chiseled cheekbones and a perfectly sculpted jawline and wondered how they do it? The secret isn’t magic; it’s contouring. Contouring is a makeup technique that uses light and shadow to redefine and enhance your facial structure. It’s about creating an illusion, making certain features appear more prominent while others recede. For a beginner, it can seem intimidating, but this guide breaks it down into simple, actionable steps. Forget the overwhelming tutorials and complex palettes. We’re going back to basics, focusing on clear, practical advice that will have you mastering the art of contouring in no time.

Understanding the Fundamentals: Light, Shadow, and Your Face Shape

Before you even pick up a brush, you need to grasp the core principle of contouring: light and shadow. Areas you want to recede, like the sides of your nose or the hollows of your cheeks, get a darker, matte shade. Areas you want to highlight, like the top of your cheekbones or the bridge of your nose, get a lighter, shimmering shade.

The second crucial step is understanding your face shape. This isn’t about fitting a specific mold; it’s about tailoring the technique to your unique bone structure. Different face shapes have different areas that benefit most from contouring.

  • Oval: Considered the most balanced face shape, oval faces can get away with minimal contouring. Focus on a light sweep under the cheekbones and a touch on the temples.

  • Round: The goal for a round face is to create more definition. Contour along the sides of the forehead, under the cheekbones, and along the jawline to create a more elongated, sculpted look.

  • Square: Square faces are defined by a strong jawline and forehead. Soften these angles by contouring along the temples and the jawline. A light contour under the cheekbones will also add depth.

  • Heart: Heart-shaped faces have a wider forehead and a pointed chin. Balance this by contouring the sides of the forehead and the temples to narrow the upper part of the face. A light contour under the cheekbones will also help.

  • Oblong/Long: For a longer face, the goal is to make it appear shorter and wider. Contour along the hairline and the tip of the chin to visually shorten the face. A horizontal sweep of contour under the cheekbones will add width.

The Essential Toolkit: Products and Brushes

You don’t need a massive collection of products to start. A few key items will get you a professional-looking result.

1. Contour Product

Choose a contour product that is two to three shades darker than your natural skin tone. The key here is to choose a matte shade. Avoid anything shimmery or orange-toned. Contour is meant to mimic shadow, and shadows are never glittery.

  • Cream/Stick: Great for beginners. They are easy to apply directly to the skin and blend out with a brush or sponge. They provide a more natural, dewy finish, especially on dry skin.
    • Actionable Tip: Start with a small amount. You can always build up the color. It’s much harder to blend out too much product.
  • Powder: Ideal for those with oily skin or who prefer a matte finish. Powders are also excellent for setting a cream contour.
    • Actionable Tip: Use a light hand. Tap off excess product from your brush before applying to avoid harsh lines.

2. Highlighter

This is the “light” part of the equation. Choose a highlighter one to two shades lighter than your skin tone. It should be luminous but not overly glittery.

  • Powder: The most common type. Easy to apply with a fluffy brush.

  • Cream/Liquid: Offers a more intense, dewy glow. Best applied with your fingertips or a damp sponge.

3. Brushes and Sponges

The right tools are half the battle.

  • Angled Contour Brush: Perfect for applying powder contour with precision to the hollows of your cheeks.

  • Fluffy Powder Brush: Use this for blending out your contour to a seamless finish.

  • Highlighter Brush: A smaller, tapered brush is ideal for applying highlighter precisely to the top of your cheekbones.

  • Makeup Sponge (Beauty Blender): A damp sponge is your best friend for blending out cream products. It seamlessly melts the product into your skin for a natural, airbrushed look.

The Step-by-Step Guide to a Sculpted Face

Now for the practical part. Follow these steps for a foolproof contour application.

Step 1: Prep Your Canvas

Start with a clean, moisturized face. Apply your foundation and concealer as you normally would. This creates a smooth base for your contour products to sit on. A matte foundation is a great choice as it provides a clean canvas.

  • Example: After moisturizing, apply a thin layer of your preferred foundation. Use a damp sponge to press concealer under your eyes and on any blemishes.

Step 2: Finding Your Contour Points

This is where you identify the areas to apply your contour shade.

  • The Hollows of Your Cheeks: Suck in your cheeks. The line you see is your guide. Apply the contour shade directly in this hollow. The key is to start at the ear and stop about halfway to the corner of your mouth.
    • Actionable Tip: Don’t drag the contour all the way to your mouth. This can make your face look muddy and unnatural. The goal is to create a subtle shadow, not a stripe.
  • The Temples and Sides of the Forehead: Apply the contour shade along your hairline, from your temples up to your hairline. This is especially helpful for those with larger foreheads.

  • The Jawline: Apply the contour shade along the edge of your jawbone, from the ear down to the chin. This creates definition and can help to soften a prominent jawline.

  • The Sides of the Nose: To make your nose appear slimmer, apply a thin line of contour shade down the sides, starting from the inner corner of your eyebrow and stopping at the tip.

  • The Crease of the Eye: For a quick, eye-defining look, a tiny bit of contour shade in the crease of your eyelid can add depth.

Step 3: Blending is Non-Negotiable

This is the most critical step. Unblended contour looks like dirt on your face.

  • For Cream/Stick: Use a damp makeup sponge or a dense blending brush. Use a stippling motion to press the product into the skin, then gentle, circular motions to blend the edges.
    • Example: For your cheekbones, start at the ear and blend downwards. For your jawline, blend down into your neck to avoid a harsh line.
  • For Powder: Use a fluffy angled brush. Apply the powder in small, light layers. Use gentle, circular motions to blend the edges and buff away any harsh lines.
    • Example: Swirl your brush in the powder, tap off the excess, and then apply to your contour points. Blend, blend, and blend some more.

Step 4: The Art of Highlighting

Once your contour is blended, it’s time for the “light.” Highlighting brings features forward.

  • Top of the Cheekbones: This is the classic highlighting spot. Apply a small amount of highlighter to the highest point of your cheekbones, just above your contour.
    • Example: Use a fan brush or your fingertip to lightly dab the highlighter in a C-shape, starting from your temple and curving down to the top of your cheekbone.
  • Bridge of the Nose: A thin line of highlighter down the bridge of your nose makes it appear straighter.

  • Cupid’s Bow: A touch of highlighter on the cupid’s bow makes your lips look fuller.

  • Brow Bone: A swipe of highlighter under your brow bone lifts your brows and brightens your eyes.

  • Inner Corner of the Eye: This simple trick makes your eyes look bigger and more awake.

Step 5: Seal the Deal

If you’ve used powder contour, you can skip this step. If you’ve used a cream product, a light dusting of translucent setting powder will lock everything in place and ensure your sculpted look lasts all day.

  • Actionable Tip: Use a large, fluffy brush to lightly dust the powder over your entire face. This sets the makeup without adding any extra color.

Common Contouring Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Even with the best intentions, beginners can make some common mistakes. Here’s how to troubleshoot them.

Mistake 1: Using the Wrong Shade

  • Problem: The contour shade is too warm/orange.

  • Fix: Avoid products labeled “bronzer.” Look for shades with a cool, gray undertone. Think “shadow,” not “sun-kissed.”

  • Problem: The shade is too dark.

  • Fix: Start with a shade that is only one or two shades darker than your skin tone. You can always build up the intensity.

Mistake 2: Not Blending Enough

  • Problem: You have a visible stripe on your face.

  • Fix: Take your time. Blending is the most time-consuming part of contouring. Use a large, clean fluffy brush to blend out the edges in gentle, circular motions. A damp sponge is also a great tool for this.

Mistake 3: Applying Contour in the Wrong Place

  • Problem: You’ve applied contour to the apples of your cheeks.

  • Fix: This is a common mistake. You apply contour to the hollows of your cheeks to create shadow. Blush goes on the apples of your cheeks to add color.

  • Problem: The contour is too low.

  • Fix: The contour line on your cheeks should be parallel to the ground or slightly angled upwards. Applying it too low can drag your face down.

Mistake 4: Using a Shimmery Contour

  • Problem: Your “shadows” are sparkling.

  • Fix: Always use a matte contour product. Save the shimmer for your highlighter.

Advanced Contouring Techniques (When You’re Ready)

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can start experimenting with more advanced techniques.

Baking

Baking is a technique that uses a generous amount of translucent setting powder to set your makeup. It’s great for locking in your contour and highlight.

  • How to do it: After applying your cream contour and concealer, use a damp sponge to press a thick layer of translucent powder onto your highlight areas (under the eyes, bridge of the nose, etc.). Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then dust away the excess with a fluffy brush.

Strobing

Strobing is a technique that focuses solely on highlighting, without any contouring. It’s perfect for a dewy, glowing look.

  • How to do it: Apply a liquid or cream highlighter to all the high points of your face: the top of the cheekbones, brow bone, cupid’s bow, and the bridge of your nose. Blend it in for a seamless, radiant finish.

Non-Face Contouring

Contouring isn’t just for your face. You can use the same principles to create the illusion of a more sculpted body.

  • Collarbones: Apply a matte contour shade in the hollows of your collarbones and a highlighter on the highest points.

  • Decolletage: Use a light hand to apply a matte contour in the hollows between your breasts to create more definition.

Your Sculpted Look, Unlocked

Contouring is a skill, not a secret. It requires practice, patience, and a willingness to experiment. Start with a simple, two-product routine and gradually add more as you become comfortable. The key is to find what works for you and your unique face shape. Don’t chase trends or try to copy someone else’s look exactly. Use contouring as a tool to enhance the beautiful features you already have. With this guide, you have the knowledge and the actionable steps to begin your journey to a more sculpted, defined, and confident look.