The Ultimate Guide to Taming Rolled Hems on Jersey Fabric
Every sewist, from the eager beginner to the seasoned professional, has faced the frustration of a perfectly cut jersey hem that suddenly and inexplicably morphs into a stubborn, unruly scroll. This is the nemesis of knit fabrics, the bane of beautiful drape, and the silent saboteur of a project’s polished finish. You’ve put in the time to select the perfect pattern, meticulously cut your pieces, and sewn your seams with care, only to be confronted with a hemline that defies gravity and all your best efforts.
But what if you could not only conquer the rolled hem but master it? What if you could transform this common sewing challenge into an opportunity for creating clean, professional, and durable finishes? This guide is your definitive roadmap to achieving just that. We will move past the superficial fixes and dive deep into a comprehensive, practical, and actionable strategy for taming rolled hems on jersey fabric. This isn’t about lengthy, theoretical explanations, but about clear, step-by-step techniques that you can implement immediately to elevate your sewing projects.
Understanding the Enemy: Why Jersey Fabric Hems Roll
Before we can defeat the enemy, we must understand its nature. The reason jersey fabric hems roll is a matter of physics and fabric construction. Knitted fabrics, unlike woven ones, are made of interlocking loops of yarn. When you cut through these loops, you release the tension. The individual threads, now free, want to revert to their original, coiled state. The natural “curl” of the yarn causes the cut edge to roll inward, a phenomenon exacerbated by the fabric’s stretch and recovery properties.
The key to dealing with this isn’t fighting the fabric’s nature but working with it. Our goal is to create a new, stable edge that encases the raw, rolled one, effectively “trapping” the curl and preventing it from reappearing. This requires a multi-pronged approach that starts from the very beginning of your project and continues through to the final stitch.
Preparation is Everything: The Foundation of a Flat Hem
The battle against the rolled hem begins long before you even touch a sewing machine. This preparatory phase is non-negotiable and will save you countless headaches down the line. Skipping these steps is a surefire way to guarantee a rolled hem.
1. The Pre-Wash and Dry Cycle: Stabilize and Shrink This is the single most important step for any knit fabric project. Jersey, especially those with high cotton content, will shrink. If you skip this step, your beautiful finished garment will pucker and distort after the first wash as the fibers tighten up. Wash and dry your fabric exactly as you plan to wash and dry the final garment. This “pre-shrinks” the fabric and stabilizes the fibers, making them less prone to rolling during the cutting and sewing process.
- Concrete Example: You’ve bought a beautiful rayon jersey for a t-shirt. You plan to machine wash and air-dry the finished tee. You must machine wash and air-dry the raw fabric first. This accounts for all potential shrinkage before a single cut is made.
2. The Cutting Surface: Laying it Flat A rolled hem often starts with a rolled cut. You must cut your fabric on a completely flat, stable surface. Do not cut on a bed or a plush carpet. Use a cutting mat on a solid table or a hardwood floor. Use pattern weights instead of pins to hold the pattern pieces in place. Pins can distort the fabric, causing it to stretch and pucker.
- Concrete Example: Instead of pinning your t-shirt pattern to the jersey, use heavy cans of soup or a set of purpose-built pattern weights around the edges. This keeps the fabric flat and true to its original shape.
3. Cutting with a Rotary Cutter: Precision is Key The cleanest, most precise cuts are made with a sharp rotary cutter. Scissors can lift the fabric and cause it to shift, resulting in a wobbly, uneven edge that is much more likely to roll. A rotary cutter slices through multiple layers cleanly and without distortion.
- Concrete Example: For the hem of a dress, stack your front and back pieces neatly, and use a fresh blade in your rotary cutter to make one smooth, continuous cut along the hemline. This ensures both pieces are identical and the edge is as clean as possible.
The Strategic Stitch: Locking Down the Hem
Once your fabric is prepped and cut, it’s time to sew. The right stitch and technique are paramount for creating a durable and flat hem. The goal here is to create a stitch that is both strong enough to hold the hem and stretchy enough to move with the fabric.
1. The Stay Stitch: Your First Line of Defense Before you even think about turning up the hem, you should consider a stay stitch. This is a simple, straight stitch placed 1/8″ to 1/4″ from the raw edge. It doesn’t fold or turn the fabric, it just locks down the loose loops and prevents them from unraveling or curling. This is particularly useful for delicate knits or curves.
- Concrete Example: On the curved hem of a knit skirt, sew a straight stitch with a regular machine at a stitch length of 2.5mm, 1/4″ from the raw edge. This stitch holds the edge flat and makes it easier to turn up evenly.
2. The Double Needle: The Professional Finish A double needle is the gold standard for hemming knits on a regular sewing machine. It creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side. The zigzag is what provides the necessary stretch to prevent the hem from popping threads when the fabric is stretched.
- Step-by-Step Execution:
- Thread the Machine: Use two spools of thread. Thread them both through the machine’s tension discs and guides.
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Install the Needle: Insert the double needle into your machine.
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Wind the Bobbin: Use a good quality polyester thread in the bobbin.
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Set the Stitch: Set your machine to a straight stitch with a slightly longer stitch length, around 3.0mm to 3.5mm.
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Fold and Press: Fold up your hem allowance and press it with a low-heat iron and a pressing cloth.
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Stitch: Sew from the right side of the fabric, ensuring the needle straddles the folded edge. The two lines of stitching should be equidistant from the fold. The bobbin thread will create a zigzag, securing the hem.
3. The Coverstitch Machine: The Ultimate Tool If you sew with knits frequently, a coverstitch machine is an invaluable investment. It is a dedicated machine that creates a professional, stretchy, and incredibly clean hem that looks identical to a ready-to-wear garment. It produces multiple parallel rows of stitching on the top and a chain stitch on the bottom.
- Actionable Advice:
- Choose the Right Setting: Use a 2-needle, 3-thread wide coverstitch for most hems.
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Trim First: Trim your hem allowance to the desired width before sewing.
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Align and Sew: Align the raw, unturned edge of the fabric with your machine’s guide and sew. The machine will simultaneously trim and hem the fabric in one pass, creating a perfect, flat finish.
Alternative Hemming Techniques for Jersey
Not everyone has a coverstitch machine, and a double needle may not be suitable for every project. Here are several alternative techniques that still produce excellent results.
1. The Zigzag Stitch: Simple and Effective A regular zigzag stitch is a fantastic way to finish a jersey hem with a standard sewing machine. The zigzag stitch, by its very nature, provides the necessary stretch to prevent popped threads.
- Step-by-Step Execution:
- Fold and Press: Fold up the hem allowance and press.
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Set the Machine: Use a medium zigzag stitch: a width of 2.0-3.0mm and a length of 2.5-3.0mm.
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Stitch: Sew with the zigzag stitch just over the raw, folded edge of the fabric. The “zag” should go just off the edge, and the “zig” should come down onto the fabric, securing it in place.
2. The Twin Needle and Triple Zigzag: A Hybrid Approach This method combines the best of both worlds. It gives you the dual-line aesthetic of a double needle with the superior stretch of a zigzag stitch.
- Step-by-Step Execution:
- Install the Needle: Insert a twin needle into your machine.
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Set the Stitch: Instead of a straight stitch, select a triple zigzag or a “stretch zigzag” stitch from your machine’s menu.
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Stitch: Sew as you would with a regular twin needle. The triple zigzag will be more forgiving and less likely to pucker than a straight stitch, providing a clean, professional finish with ample stretch.
3. The Serger and Serged Hem: A Quick, Clean Solution If you have a serger (overlocker), you can use it to create a rolled hem or a standard serged hem. While a serged hem is not the classic look for a t-shirt, it works beautifully for lightweight knits or blouses where a delicate, almost invisible finish is desired.
- Rolled Hem Execution:
- Adjust the Serger: Remove the left needle. Adjust your stitch length to a very short setting (1-1.5mm) and the differential feed to a neutral or slightly negative setting.
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Change the Thread: Use a specialty rolled hem thread in your upper looper for a more decorative finish.
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Stitch: Serg along the raw edge of the fabric. The machine will trim the fabric and wrap a tight, decorative stitch around the edge, creating a beautiful rolled hem that is both neat and stretchy.
Advanced Techniques and Troubleshooting
Even with the best techniques, things can go wrong. Here’s how to troubleshoot common issues and incorporate advanced methods for truly flawless results.
1. Using a Stabilizer: The Secret to a Flat Finish For very delicate, super-stretchy, or thin jersey fabrics, a stabilizer is your best friend. This is a thin, temporary material that you place under the fabric to give it more body and prevent it from stretching or rolling as you sew.
- Types of Stabilizers:
- Tear-Away Stabilizer: This is a paper-like material that tears away easily after sewing.
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Wash-Away Stabilizer: This is a dissolvable material that disappears in water.
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Fusible Knit Stay Tape: A narrow, stretchy tape that you iron onto the hem allowance. This is the most effective method as it stays in the garment permanently, adding structure to the hem.
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Concrete Example: When hemming a delicate viscose jersey with a double needle, iron a piece of fusible knit stay tape onto the wrong side of the fabric along the hemline before folding it up. This will prevent the fabric from stretching and “tunnelling” (the ridge that forms between the two rows of stitching) as you sew.
2. The Walking Foot: Your Best Friend for Knits A walking foot is a special presser foot that has its own set of feed dogs. It moves the top layer of fabric at the same rate as the bottom layer, preventing stretching and puckering. If your sewing machine has one, use it for all your knit sewing, especially for hems.
- Actionable Advice: Install the walking foot and set your machine to a zigzag stitch. The combination of the walking foot and a stretchy stitch will produce a hem that is perfectly flat and has no ripples.
3. Troubleshooting a Wavy Hem: If your hem is coming out wavy, it’s usually because the fabric is being stretched as you sew.
- The Fix:
- Check Your Differential Feed: If you are using a serger or a coverstitch machine, increase the differential feed to a higher number (e.g., 1.5). This will push more fabric through the machine, preventing it from stretching.
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Slow Down: Sew slowly and gently guide the fabric, but do not pull or stretch it. Let the machine do the work.
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Increase Presser Foot Pressure: If your machine allows it, increase the presser foot pressure slightly to hold the fabric more firmly against the feed dogs.
4. The Iron and Pressing Cloth: Not an Afterthought Proper pressing is the final, crucial step to a professional-looking hem. Pressing your hem before and after sewing is essential. Always use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from the heat of the iron and prevent it from becoming shiny or melting.
- Actionable Advice: After sewing, turn your garment inside out. Lay it flat on your ironing board and press the hem with a slightly damp pressing cloth. A burst of steam can help “set” the stitches and remove any final waviness.
Final Finishing Touches: Beyond the Stitch
The hemming process doesn’t end with the final stitch. The way you care for your garment and present it can make all the difference.
1. Trimming Loose Threads: After you’ve finished sewing, take the time to carefully trim all loose threads. Use a small pair of sharp snips to cut them as close to the fabric as possible without cutting the stitches. This is a simple step that makes your finished garment look polished and professional.
2. The Final Press: Give your entire garment a final press. This not only smooths out the hem but also sets the seams and gives the entire project a crisp, finished appearance. Again, use a pressing cloth and a low-to-medium heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric.
3. Storing and Caring for the Garment: For jersey garments, it’s best to fold them rather than hang them. The weight of the fabric on a hanger can cause it to stretch and distort, especially at the shoulders and neckline.
Conclusion: From Frustration to Flawless
Dealing with rolled hems on jersey fabric is not a matter of luck; it’s a matter of knowledge and technique. By understanding the nature of the fabric, meticulously preparing your materials, and selecting the right stitch and tools for the job, you can transform a common sewing frustration into a skill that sets your handmade garments apart. This guide has given you a comprehensive toolkit of strategies, from the basic zigzag to the advanced coverstitch, to ensure that every hem you sew is flat, durable, and perfectly professional. The next time you face a piece of jersey, you won’t be fighting its curl; you’ll be harnessing it to create a stunning, flawless finish.