How to Discover the History and Evolution of Kitten Heels

by

Uncovering the Past: A Definitive Guide to Researching the History and Evolution of Kitten Heels

Introduction

Have you ever looked at a pair of kitten heels and wondered where they came from? The delicate, low-heeled shoe is a staple in many wardrobes, but its story is far richer and more complex than you might imagine. Tracing the history and evolution of a specific fashion item like the kitten heel is a rewarding journey, one that requires a blend of detective work, archival research, and a keen eye for detail. This guide will provide you with a clear, actionable roadmap to becoming your own fashion historian, offering practical steps and concrete examples to help you uncover the fascinating narrative behind this iconic shoe. Forget generic, superficial explanations—we’re diving deep into the methods and resources you need to conduct a thorough, satisfying investigation.

Phase 1: Laying the Groundwork – Defining Your Scope and Keywords

Before you begin your deep dive, you need to establish a clear research strategy. This isn’t about aimlessly searching the internet; it’s about targeted, efficient investigation.

  1. Pinpoint Your Research Questions: What exactly do you want to know? Don’t just ask “What’s the history of kitten heels?” Break it down into specific, manageable questions. For example:
    • When and where did the term “kitten heel” first appear?

    • Who were the key designers or figures associated with popularizing them?

    • How did the design change over time? (e.g., from a thin stiletto-like heel to a slightly thicker, more stable version)

    • What social or cultural factors influenced their rise and fall in popularity?

  2. Brainstorm a Comprehensive List of Keywords and Synonyms: The term “kitten heel” might not have always been used. A good researcher anticipates this and searches for related terms. Create a list that includes:

    • Historical terms: “low heel,” “demi-heel,” “French heel” (a similar style), “court shoe” (a common style of shoe that often featured a low heel).

    • Related concepts: “1950s fashion,” “post-war style,” “debutante shoe,” “Audrey Hepburn shoes.”

    • Descriptive words: “slender heel,” “short heel,” “tapered heel,” “small heel.”

    • Manufacturer and designer names: Once you find a few early examples, search for the brands associated with them, like Ferragamo, Roger Vivier, or Delman.

  3. Establish a Timeline: While you might not know the exact dates yet, have a general idea of the eras you expect to focus on. A quick preliminary search will likely point to the 1950s as a key starting point. Use this to guide your initial searches, and be prepared to expand your timeline as you uncover new information.

Phase 2: The Digital Hunt – Navigating Online Archives and Databases

The internet is a treasure trove of information, but you need to know where to look and how to interpret what you find. This phase is all about leveraging specialized digital resources.

  1. Explore Digital Museum Collections: This is your first and most valuable stop. Major museums with significant costume and textile collections have digitized parts of their archives.
    • How to do it: Go directly to the websites of institutions like The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met), the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London, or the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) Museum. Use their internal search functions with your keywords.

    • Concrete Example: Search the V&A’s online collection for “kitten heel.” You might find an object record for a pair of shoes from the 1950s, complete with the designer’s name, the date, and a detailed description. This single entry gives you a starting point for further research. You can then search for that specific designer or year.

  2. Delve into Newspaper and Magazine Archives: This is where you’ll find the narrative and context. Fashion didn’t exist in a vacuum; it was discussed, advertised, and reviewed in print.

    • How to do it: Use databases like Newspapers.com or the ProQuest Historical Newspapers collection (often available through public or university libraries). For fashion magazines, look for digitized archives of titles like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Life Magazine.

    • Concrete Example: Search a historical newspaper archive for the phrase “kitten heel” or “low heel” within the 1950s. You might find an advertisement from a department store like Saks Fifth Avenue announcing “The new kitten heels for spring,” which would give you a precise date, price, and a sense of how the shoe was marketed to consumers. You might also find a fashion column explaining why the heel was a popular choice for young women.

  3. Utilize Digital Books and Scholarly Articles: Go beyond surface-level articles.

    • How to do it: Use Google Books to search for terms within fashion history textbooks. Google Scholar or JSTOR are excellent for finding academic articles on the history of footwear or specific fashion eras.

    • Concrete Example: Search JSTOR for “fashion 1950s shoes.” You might find a scholarly article discussing the shift from platform shoes to more conservative, elegant styles after the war, providing valuable historical context for the rise of the kitten heel. Reading a few paragraphs of a fashion history book might confirm that the kitten heel was considered a “training heel” for young women before they wore full stilettos, a key insight into its social function.

  4. Scour Auction House Archives: Auction houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s often have detailed records of items they’ve sold.

    • How to do it: Visit the websites of major auction houses and search their “past sales” or “archives” sections.

    • Concrete Example: Search for “kitten heel” in Christie’s archives. You might find a listing for a pair of vintage Dior shoes from 1958, with a detailed provenance (history of ownership), a high-resolution photograph, and an expert’s description of their significance. This is a powerful way to find authenticated, well-documented examples.

Phase 3: The Visual Journey – Deconstructing the Design

The history of the kitten heel is also a story told through its changing form. You need to learn how to “read” the shoe itself.

  1. Analyze Visual Evidence from Different Eras: Look at photographs and illustrations from the 1950s, 1960s, 1980s, and 2000s.
    • How to do it: Use Google Images with specific date ranges (e.g., “kitten heels 1960s fashion”). Look for candid street style photos, film stills, and magazine editorials.

    • Concrete Example: Compare a photograph of Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) wearing a pair of slender, pointed-toe kitten heels with a photograph of Princess Diana in the late 1980s. You’ll likely see a difference in the toe shape (Diana’s might be slightly more rounded) and the heel itself (the late 80s heel might be slightly thicker or wider at the base). This visual comparison allows you to chart the evolution of the shoe’s silhouette.

  2. Deconstruct the Components: Break down the shoe into its individual parts and look for changes in each.

    • How to do it: When you find a good visual example, scrutinize the toe box, the heel shape, the material, and the overall construction.

    • Concrete Example:

      • Heel: Is it a slender, curved “comma” heel (a famous Roger Vivier design) or a straight, block-like low heel? Is it covered in the same material as the shoe or is it a stacked wood heel?

      • Toe: Is it a sharp, pointed toe that was popular in the 50s and 60s, or a slightly rounded, almond-shaped toe that became more common later?

      • Material: Is the shoe made of patent leather, suede, or an exotic skin? The material often reflects the era’s economic and aesthetic trends.

Phase 4: The Human Element – Finding the Stories and the People

A fashion item’s history isn’t just about dates and designs; it’s about the people who made, wore, and popularized it.

  1. Identify Key Figures: Who were the ambassadors of the kitten heel?
    • How to do it: Look for repeated mentions of celebrities or public figures associated with the shoe in your research.

    • Concrete Example: Your newspaper and magazine archive research will likely turn up frequent mentions of Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, and Princess Diana wearing kitten heels. Once you identify these figures, you can then conduct more targeted searches like “Audrey Hepburn shoe style” to find specific images and articles that discuss their influence.

  2. Research the Designers: Who was behind the initial design and innovation?

    • How to do it: Once you find a designer’s name attached to a vintage shoe in a museum collection, do a deep dive into their biography and work.

    • Concrete Example: If you find an early pair of kitten heels attributed to Roger Vivier, you should then search for “Roger Vivier biography,” “Roger Vivier heel designs,” or “Vivier 1950s shoes.” You will likely find information about his innovative work for Christian Dior and his reputation for designing elegant, architectural heels, which provides a crucial piece of the puzzle about the kitten heel’s origins.

  3. Look for Personal Accounts and Oral Histories: These can provide unique, anecdotal insights.

    • How to do it: Search for oral history projects from fashion schools or museums. Look for interviews with shoe designers, fashion editors, or even women who grew up in the 1950s.

    • Concrete Example: A search might lead you to an oral history interview with a woman who worked in a department store in the 1950s. She might recall how older women considered kitten heels “impractical” but young women loved them because they felt modern and elegant without being as uncomfortable as high heels. This kind of firsthand account adds a layer of rich, human detail that cannot be found in a museum object record.

Conclusion

By following this step-by-step guide, you can move beyond a superficial understanding of the kitten heel and become a true fashion historian. This process is about building a compelling narrative from disparate pieces of evidence—a museum photo here, a vintage advertisement there, and a crucial detail from a designer’s biography. The history of the kitten heel is not a simple fact to be memorized, but a story to be discovered. By defining your questions, leveraging the right digital tools, deconstructing the visual evidence, and uncovering the human stories behind the shoe, you can craft a definitive and nuanced account of this iconic fashion staple. The past is waiting to be uncovered, one heel at a time.