How to Find and Style Retro Eyewear: See the World Through Vintage Lenses

by

In an age dominated by fleeting trends and disposable fashion, a return to the past offers something more substantial: a piece of history you can wear. Retro eyewear is more than just an accessory; it is a statement of individuality, an homage to an era of iconic style, and a sustainable choice that stands apart from the mass-produced. Wearing a pair of vintage frames connects you to a story, whether it’s the golden age of Hollywood, the rebellious spirit of the 1960s, or the audacious energy of the 1980s. This guide is your definitive resource for navigating the world of vintage glasses. It will equip you with the knowledge to not only find the perfect pair that complements your unique features but also to style them with confidence, seamlessly integrating a touch of the past into your contemporary wardrobe. We will move beyond the superficial, providing a practical, step-by-step approach to discovering, evaluating, and wearing retro eyewear that is both authentic and deeply personal.

Decoding the Decades: A Guide to Iconic Retro Eyewear Styles

Understanding the history of eyewear is the first step in your vintage journey. Each decade brought its own defining shapes, materials, and sensibilities. Knowing these nuances will help you pinpoint the exact style that speaks to you.

The 1920s-1940s: The Dawn of Eyewear as Fashion

Before eyewear became a true fashion accessory, it was primarily a medical device. The early part of the 20th century saw a transition.

  • Pince-Nez: These glasses had no earpieces and were held on the nose by a spring. Often seen as a sign of intellectualism and sophistication, they were popular among a certain class and are a very specific vintage statement. They are a difficult style to wear today, but an authentic pair is a true collector’s item.

  • Rounded Wireframes: This is the quintessential “early 20th century” look. Think of the thin, metal-rimmed frames that became a symbol of practicality and intellect. They were often made from silver or nickel and were hammered thin. To find a wearable pair, look for models with modern-style temples (the arms) that rest behind the ear, as this design began to gain traction in the later part of this period.

  • Early Acetate Frames: As new materials became available, frames started to get a bit thicker. The use of celluloid and early plastics allowed for a wider range of colors and designs. Rounded frames in tortoiseshell patterns, often with keyhole bridges, became a popular choice for both men and women, signaling a move from pure function to aesthetic consideration.

The 1950s: The Rise of Hollywood Glamour

The post-war era saw eyewear burst onto the fashion scene, heavily influenced by Hollywood. The designs were optimistic, bold, and often gender-specific.

  • Cat-Eye Frames: This is the most iconic style of the decade. Characterized by their upswept corners, cat-eye frames were a symbol of femininity and glamour. They ranged from subtle and understated to highly embellished with rhinestones, filigree, and decorative details on the temples. For a true 1950s look, seek out pairs with sharp, pointed corners and a wider, flatter shape. Example: A pair of sharp, black cat-eye frames with a clear rhinestone detail on the upper corners.

  • Browline Frames: A hallmark of mid-century men’s style, browlines featured a bold, thick upper frame that mimicked the look of an eyebrow, with a thin wire or rimless bottom. This style projected an image of authority and intellectualism. Example: A pair of classic black browlines with a gold-toned metal rim, a style that remains timeless and versatile.

  • Wayfarers: Introduced in the mid-1950s, the original Wayfarer was a revolutionary plastic frame that broke from the traditional metal and acetate designs. Its trapezoidal shape and thick arms made a bold, modern statement. An authentic vintage pair will feel heavier and more substantial than many modern reproductions, with a distinct tilt to the frame front.

The 1960s: Revolution and Counter-Culture

The 1960s was a decade of experimentation and breaking from tradition, and eyewear reflected this shift with larger, more unconventional shapes.

  • Oversized Frames: Everything was bigger in the ’60s. Frames became larger, sometimes covering a significant portion of the face. This trend was prominent for both sunglasses and eyeglasses. They were often made of chunky acetate in vibrant colors or two-tone designs.

  • Circular “Granny” Glasses: Popularized by cultural icons, small, perfectly round wireframes became synonymous with the counter-culture movement. This minimalist, retro-futuristic style was a deliberate rejection of the flashy, embellished styles of the previous decade. Example: A pair of thin, gold-toned wireframes with small, round lenses.

  • Geometric Shapes: Squares, hexagons, and other angular frames began to emerge, often with thin metal or plastic rims. These frames were a nod to the modernist and Pop Art movements and offered a more playful and artistic alternative to traditional shapes.

The 1970s: The Era of Excess

The 1970s pushed the boundaries of size and color even further. Eyewear was a critical component of personal expression, reflecting the decade’s eclectic fashion.

  • Aviators: While originally a military design, the aviator became a civilian fashion staple in the 1970s. The classic teardrop shape with a double bridge was adopted for both prescription glasses and sunglasses, often featuring brightly colored or gradient-tinted lenses.

  • Oversized Square Frames: These large, square, or rectangular frames were a unisex trend. Made from thick acetate, they often came in earthy tones like brown and amber, or in bold, vibrant colors. Example: A large pair of brown tortoiseshell square frames with a wide bridge.

  • Colored Lenses: Tinted lenses were a defining feature of ’70s eyewear. From pale blues and pinks to warm ambers and smoky grays, these tints were worn in both indoor and outdoor settings, adding a touch of bohemian flair.

The 1980s: Power Dressing and Pop Culture

The 1980s were all about making a statement. Eyewear became bigger, bolder, and more theatrical, reflecting the decade’s embrace of maximalism.

  • Bold Wayfarers: The Wayfarer made a huge comeback, but with an 80s twist. The frames were often thicker, available in a kaleidoscope of colors, and seen in countless films and music videos. An authentic ’80s Wayfarer has a slightly different lens shape and a more pronounced tilt than its modern counterparts.

  • Sporty Frames: The rise of athletic and performance-wear influenced eyewear. Frames were often made of lightweight, durable plastics and featured streamlined, wraparound designs. These styles were often associated with outdoor activities and an active lifestyle.

  • Wireframe Classics: While the ’80s were loud, a quieter trend also existed. Thin, delicate wireframes, particularly in gold and silver, were a popular choice for a more refined, professional look. They provided a clean contrast to the decade’s otherwise bold fashion.

The 1990s: Minimalism and Subculture

The 1990s reacted against the excesses of the ’80s with a return to simplicity. Eyewear became smaller, cleaner, and less about making a loud statement.

  • Small Oval Frames: These frames were thin, minimalist, and often perfectly oval. A key component of the grunge and alternative rock looks, they were typically made of thin metal and sat high on the nose.

  • Rimless Glasses: The ultimate minimalist statement, rimless glasses featured lenses that were directly attached to the temples and bridge without a surrounding frame. This style provided a subtle, nearly invisible look.

  • Chunky Rectangles: Towards the late ’90s, the trend began to shift back to thicker frames, but with a new aesthetic. Thick, rectangular frames in solid black or dark colors, often with a slightly sporty feel, became a professional and fashionable choice.

The Hunt: How to Find Authentic and High-Quality Retro Frames

Finding the perfect vintage frame requires a sharp eye and a methodical approach. The difference between an authentic piece and a modern reproduction can be subtle, and a careful evaluation of quality is essential.

Online Vintage Marketplaces

Online platforms dedicated to vintage and handmade goods are treasure troves, but require careful navigation.

  • Vetting the Seller: Look for sellers who specialize in eyewear and have a long history of positive reviews. A reputable seller will provide detailed photos from multiple angles, including close-ups of any flaws, and will offer precise measurements. They should also be able to answer specific questions about the frame’s material, origin, and condition. A seller who provides a story about the item’s origin is often a good sign of their expertise and passion.

  • Analyzing Product Descriptions: A good description will list the frame’s measurements—lens width, bridge width, and temple length—in millimeters. It will also specify the material (e.g., cellulose acetate, nickel silver), the country of origin, and its condition (e.g., “new old stock,” “excellent vintage condition with minor signs of wear,” “used with notable wear”).

  • The Power of Keywords: Use precise search terms. Instead of just “vintage glasses,” try “1950s browline glasses,” “1970s oversized aviators,” or “new old stock 1960s cat-eye.” This will filter out many modern replicas and help you find exactly what you’re looking for.

Brick-and-Mortar Vintage Stores

Nothing beats the experience of holding a vintage frame in your hands.

  • Specialized Eyewear Dealers: These shops are the gold standard. Run by experts, they curate high-quality, authentic vintage frames, often with their own optician on staff. While prices may be higher, you are paying for expert knowledge, quality assurance, and the ability to try on a wide selection.

  • General Vintage and Thrift Shops: These can be hit or miss, but the payoff can be huge. The key is to be patient and know what to look for. Check the hinges for rust or looseness, inspect the frame for cracks or warping, and look for any identifying markings on the inside of the temples. Don’t be afraid to ask staff about an item’s provenance.

Replicas and Reissues: A Modern Alternative

For those who love the look but prefer the convenience and durability of a new frame, modern replicas and reissues are an excellent choice.

  • The Pros: Modern frames are made with contemporary materials like high-quality acetate and titanium, which are often lighter, more durable, and hypoallergenic. They are designed to fit modern face shapes and are easily serviced by any optician. They also come in a range of sizes, making finding a perfect fit much easier.

  • The Cons: A replica lacks the unique history and patina of a true vintage piece. The colors, textures, and construction may not have the same character as an authentic frame. A new frame, no matter how well-made, does not carry the same story.

Evaluating Authenticity and Condition

When you have a frame in your hand, a thorough inspection is crucial.

  • Material Check: Real tortoiseshell (now illegal) has a unique, almost translucent quality and often contains small imperfections. Older celluloid and acetate frames have a heavier, more solid feel. Vintage metal frames should feel substantial, not flimsy. Look for markings like “12K Gold Filled” or “Made in France,” which indicate quality and origin.

  • Hinge Quality: Vintage frames often have a sturdier hinge construction than many modern budget frames. Look for hinges with small, firm rivets rather than glued-on parts. The arms should open and close smoothly without being too loose or too stiff.

  • Signs of Wear: A frame with a gentle, consistent patina is a good sign. Be wary of frames with deep scratches, warped plastic, or rust on the metal parts, as these issues may be irreparable. Check the bridge and nose pads, as these areas are prone to stress and wear.

A Frame for Every Face: Matching Vintage Styles to Your Features

The right pair of glasses should complement your facial structure, not clash with it. This is particularly important with vintage frames, which often have more distinctive and dramatic shapes.

Understanding Your Face Shape

  • Oval: Considered the most balanced face shape, an oval face is longer than it is wide, with a rounded jawline and forehead.

  • Round: A round face has a similar width and length, with soft, rounded angles.

  • Square: A square face has a strong, broad forehead and a prominent, angular jawline.

  • Heart: A heart-shaped face is widest at the forehead and tapers down to a narrower, pointed chin.

  • Diamond: A diamond face is characterized by a narrow forehead and chin, with broad, high cheekbones.

The Art of Contrast

The fundamental rule of pairing frames with face shapes is to create contrast.

  • For Round Faces: Opt for angular frames like square, rectangular, or cat-eye styles. These shapes add definition and create the illusion of a longer, narrower face. A thick, ’80s-style Wayfarer is an excellent choice. Avoid small, round frames, which can emphasize the roundness of your face.

  • For Square Faces: Soften your strong features with rounded or curved frames. Classic ’60s circular glasses, oval shapes, or even a classic aviator can work wonders. The curved lines will balance the angles of your jaw and forehead. Avoid sharp, square frames, which can make your face appear more boxy.

  • For Oval Faces: You have the luxury of choice. Almost any frame shape will suit an oval face. Experiment with different styles from various decades—from ’50s cat-eyes to ’90s ovals. Your goal is to choose a frame that maintains the natural balance of your face.

  • For Heart-Shaped Faces: The goal is to draw attention downwards to balance your broader forehead. Frames that are wider at the bottom or have a slight cat-eye lift can work well. Browline frames, which are thicker on top, can also be a good choice, as can classic ’70s aviators.

  • For Diamond Faces: Highlight your cheekbones and soften the angularity. Rimless or oval frames, which have a delicate look, are perfect. A cat-eye frame can also be a great choice, as the upswept corners draw attention to the eyes and away from the temples.

Color and Material Considerations

  • Skin Tone: Choose frame colors that complement your skin’s undertones. If you have warm undertones, go for earthy colors like brown, tortoiseshell, amber, or gold. For cool undertones, try black, silver, blue, or shades of pink.

  • Hair Color: The color of your hair can also play a role. Dark frames provide a nice contrast against light hair, while lighter frames can pop against dark hair. For red hair, green or tortoiseshell frames can be a stunning choice.

Styling Your Vintage Lenses: Integrating Retro Eyewear into Modern Wardrobes

The key to wearing retro eyewear is integration, not costume. The goal is to make the frames feel like a natural, stylish part of your look, not a relic.

From Casual to Corporate: A Guide to Versatility

  • Modernizing a ’50s Cat-Eye: Pair a sharp, black cat-eye frame with a minimalist, contemporary outfit. Think a tailored, oversized blazer and straight-leg jeans with a simple white T-shirt. The clean lines of the outfit will make the vintage frames the focal point without looking dated.

  • Making a ’70s Aviator Work: Take a pair of large, gold-toned aviators and wear them with a modern, structured ensemble. A clean-cut trench coat, dark denim, and a simple sweater create a sophisticated backdrop for the frames.

  • Styling ’90s Oval Frames: The small, thin frames of the ’90s pair perfectly with today’s oversized silhouettes. Combine them with a chunky knit sweater and wide-leg trousers, or an oversized leather jacket and a slip dress. The contrast in scale between the frames and the clothing creates a balanced, fashion-forward look.

The Power of Accessorizing

  • Jewelry: Keep jewelry minimal to avoid competing with a bold frame. For a ’50s cat-eye, a simple pair of pearl studs or a delicate chain necklace works best. With a chunky ’80s frame, a single, modern cuff or statement ring is sufficient.

  • Headwear: Hats can be a tricky companion. With a large frame, opt for a simple beanie or a classic fedora. For smaller frames, a wide-brimmed hat or a beret can work, but ensure the hat’s style doesn’t overwhelm the glasses.

Hair and Makeup Considerations

  • Hair: The way you wear your hair can drastically change the look of your frames. A classic cat-eye often looks best with hair styled away from the face, like a chic updo or a sleek bob. For large, ’70s frames, a more natural, flowing hairstyle complements the bohemian feel.

  • Makeup: Your glasses draw attention to your eyes, so makeup should be intentional. With thick, dark frames, a lighter hand with eyeshadow is often best, focusing instead on a clean, defined brow. For thin, metal frames, a bolder eyeliner or a pop of color on the lids can be very effective.

The Practical Side: Prescription, Care, and Maintenance

Your journey doesn’t end when you find the perfect frames. The next steps are ensuring they are wearable and well-maintained for years to come.

Bringing Your Vintage Frames to an Optician

  • Finding the Right Optician: Not all optical labs are equipped to handle vintage frames. Call ahead and ask if they have experience with older materials. A skilled optician can evaluate the frame’s integrity and determine if it can withstand the process of inserting new lenses. They will check for warping, brittleness, and the condition of the screws and hinges.

  • Lens Options: A good optician can advise you on the best lens material for your vintage frame. For very thin or delicate frames, a lighter lens material like polycarbonate is often recommended. You can get any type of prescription lens, from single vision to progressive, but be aware that some smaller frames from the ’90s may not have enough vertical space for progressive lenses.

  • Potential Challenges: Be prepared for potential challenges. Some very old frames may be too fragile. The screws may be rusted or stripped, and finding a replacement for a broken part may be impossible. In these cases, the frame may be best kept as a collector’s item or for display.

Long-Term Care and Maintenance

  • Cleaning: The best way to clean vintage frames is with a soft microfiber cloth and a gentle, mild soap mixed with lukewarm water. Avoid harsh chemicals, alcohol-based cleaners, or abrasive towels, as these can strip coatings, damage the finish, or scratch the lenses.

  • Storage: Always store your vintage glasses in a hard case when you’re not wearing them. This protects them from being bent, scratched, or accidentally crushed. Do not leave them on a car dashboard or in direct sunlight for long periods, as the heat can warp the plastic.

  • Adjustments: Vintage frames, like all glasses, will need occasional adjustments. A good optician can tighten screws, adjust the nose pads, and gently heat and bend the temples for a more comfortable fit. Do not attempt to make these adjustments yourself, as old plastic and metal can be brittle and snap easily.

The world of vintage eyewear is a rich and rewarding one. It offers an opportunity to express your unique style, embrace quality craftsmanship, and make a sustainable choice. By understanding the history, knowing how to hunt for the perfect pair, and learning how to style and care for them, you can find a piece that is not just an accessory, but a part of your story.