Zipping Back in Time: A Definitive Guide to Finding and Styling Retro Zippers and Fastenings
The secret to a truly authentic vintage look isn’t just about the silhouette; it’s in the details. While a perfectly tailored A-line dress or a sharp pair of high-waisted trousers form the foundation, it’s the retro zippers, buttons, and buckles that secure your aesthetic and elevate it from a costume to a statement. These tiny components are the time capsules of fashion, each one telling a story of a bygone era. They represent a blend of historical design, engineering, and craftsmanship that modern fast fashion often overlooks. This guide will walk you through the essential steps to not only find these vintage treasures but to style them with confidence, breathing new life into your garments and securing your vintage look with an authentic flair.
The Anatomy of a Vintage Fastening: What to Look For
Before you can find them, you must know what you’re looking for. Retro fasteners are distinct from their modern counterparts in several key ways. Understanding these differences will help you spot genuine vintage pieces and avoid cheap imitations.
Identifying Vintage Zippers
Vintage zippers are a universe unto themselves. The materials, tooth styles, and pull tabs are all clues to their age and origin.
- Metal Teeth: Early zippers, especially from the 1920s to the 1960s, were predominantly made of metal. These aren’t the sleek, polished metal zippers of today. Look for sturdy, often chunky, brass, copper, or nickel teeth. The patina on these zippers is a dead giveaway; a slight tarnish or darkening is a sign of age.
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The Crown Zipper: A legend in its own right, the Crown zipper was a staple of mid-century American fashion and military uniforms. They are famous for their diamond-shaped pull tab and a unique locking mechanism. Spotting a Crown zipper is like finding a historical artifact.
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Talon Zippers: Talon was another major player. Their zippers from the 1930s-1960s often have distinctive markings on the pull tab or the box at the bottom. The “Talon” name, sometimes in a script font, is a common feature.
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Nylon and Plastic Zippers: While not as old as metal ones, zippers from the late 1960s and 1970s often feature nylon coils or chunky plastic teeth. These are perfect for recreating a groovy, disco-era look. The colors are often vibrant and the plastic teeth are thicker and more pronounced than modern versions.
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Pull Tabs: This is one of the easiest ways to date a zipper. Pull tabs from different eras have unique shapes and designs. From the large, circular pulls of the 1940s to the simpler, rectangular tabs of the 1960s, the pull tab is a crucial identifier. Look for logos, brand names, or even decorative elements.
Beyond the Zipper: Buttons, Buckles, and Clasps
A vintage look is a symphony of details, and zippers are just one instrument. Buttons and buckles are equally important for authentic styling.
- Bakelite and Celluloid Buttons: These plastic materials were wildly popular in the early to mid-20th century. Bakelite buttons have a distinct heft and often come in a variety of vibrant colors. A simple test: rub a Bakelite button and it will emit a faint, slightly acidic odor. Celluloid buttons are lighter and often have a more luminous, pearlescent quality.
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Mother of Pearl Buttons: A timeless classic, mother of pearl buttons were staples on blouses, shirts, and lingerie. Look for their iridescent sheen and unique, natural patterns. These are a sign of quality craftsmanship.
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Woven and Fabric-Covered Buttons: Common on garments from the 1930s and 1940s, these buttons are often covered in the same fabric as the garment itself or a complementary one. They add a soft, bespoke feel.
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Vintage Buckles: Bakelite and Lucite buckles from the 1940s-1960s are design icons. Look for chunky, geometric shapes, often in eye-catching colors. They were used on belts, skirts, and dresses to cinch the waist and add a decorative element.
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Hook and Eye Closures: Don’t underestimate the power of a good hook and eye. Vintage garments often use these closures discreetly at the neckline or waist, particularly on evening wear or delicate blouses. They are often smaller and more refined than modern versions.
The Hunt: Where to Find Retro Fastenings
Finding these gems is part of the fun. Your search will require a blend of online savvy and a willingness to explore physical locations.
The Digital Dig: Online Resources
The internet is a vast repository of vintage supplies, but knowing where to look is key to success.
- Etsy: Etsy is a goldmine for vintage sewing supplies. Search for specific terms like “vintage Talon zipper,” “1940s button lot,” or “Bakelite buckle.” Many sellers specialize in deadstock (new, old stock) or salvaged fasteners. Be sure to check seller reviews and ask for detailed photos if you’re unsure.
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eBay: A classic for a reason, eBay offers a wide range of vintage hardware. Set up specific searches and save them to get notifications. Look for sellers who offer “destash” lots, which are often collections of old sewing supplies from a single source. This is a great way to acquire a large number of items for a lower price.
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Specialty Online Stores: Several niche websites cater specifically to vintage and historical garment makers. A quick search for “vintage haberdashery” or “retro sewing supplies” will often lead you to these specialized vendors. They tend to have well-curated collections and provide detailed descriptions.
The Physical Forage: In-Person Locations
Sometimes, there’s no substitute for the thrill of a physical find.
- Antique Malls and Flea Markets: These are the ultimate treasure hunts. Look for stalls that sell old sewing notions, costume jewelry, or even entire garment collections. Don’t be afraid to dig through bins and ask sellers if they have any “old zippers or buttons.” You’ll be surprised at what people have stashed away.
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Thrift Stores and Secondhand Shops: Keep an eye out for garments with interesting fasteners. Sometimes, the most valuable part of an old dress is not the fabric, but the beautiful Bakelite buttons or a stunning metal zipper. You can often buy the garment for a low price and salvage the components.
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Estate Sales: Estate sales, particularly those of older homes, can be a goldmine. Look for a sewing room or craft area. Old sewing boxes and button jars are often filled with a lifetime’s worth of treasures.
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Local Haberdashery and Fabric Stores (The Old-Fashioned Ones): If you’re lucky enough to live near a multi-generational fabric store, they may have a back room or a forgotten shelf of old stock. These are often untouched and in pristine condition.
The Art of the Swap: Replacing and Styling Fastenings
Once you have your collection of vintage treasures, the real work begins. This is where you transform a modern garment or revitalize an old one.
Replacing a Modern Zipper with a Vintage One
This is a powerful way to add a retro touch to a contemporary piece. A modern dress with a standard plastic zipper can be completely transformed with a chunky metal zipper from the 1950s.
The Process:
- Measure Twice: Measure the length of the existing zipper and find a vintage replacement of the exact same size. If you can’t find an exact match, a slightly longer zipper is easier to work with than a shorter one; you can always shorten it.
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Careful Deconstruction: Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the old zipper. Take your time to avoid tearing the fabric.
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Basting for Precision: Pin the new vintage zipper in place. Basting the zipper by hand with a long running stitch before sewing will ensure perfect alignment and prevent it from shifting.
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The Stitching: Sew the new zipper in place. For an authentic look, consider using a vintage-style stitch, perhaps a slightly more visible one. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine for a clean, even line.
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Finishing Touches: If the new zipper is longer, you will need to shorten it. The easiest way is to create new zipper stops by hand-stitching a few tight rows of thread at the desired length.
Concrete Example: You have a new, dark denim pencil skirt with a standard plastic zipper. Replace it with a gleaming brass Talon zipper from the 1960s. The contrast of the sturdy brass against the modern denim instantly elevates the skirt, giving it a cool, retro-inspired edge that is both unique and stylish.
Adding Vintage Buttons and Buckles
Buttons and buckles can completely change the character of a garment. They are the jewelry of clothing.
- Button Swaps: The easiest and most impactful change you can make. Take a plain, modern cardigan with generic buttons and replace them with a set of mismatched Bakelite buttons in complementary colors. This adds personality and a handmade feel. For a blazer, replacing simple plastic buttons with large, ornate metal buttons from the 1940s instantly gives it a more formal, period-appropriate feel.
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Buckle Up: A simple leather belt can be a blank canvas. Replace the standard metal buckle with a chunky, geometric Bakelite buckle. The new buckle becomes the focal point, transforming the belt from a functional item into a statement accessory.
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Decorative Touches: Don’t be limited to just replacing existing closures. Add a line of decorative vintage buttons down the side of a skirt or along a sleeve cuff. Use a vintage buckle as a decorative element to cinch the waist of a loose-fitting dress, even if the dress doesn’t have a built-in belt.
Concrete Example: You have a simple, black shift dress. It’s a great canvas. Find a large, cherry-red Bakelite buckle from the 1940s. Use a piece of black grosgrain ribbon to create a simple belt and secure it with the buckle. Now, the dress has a pop of color and a distinct, period-specific silhouette, all thanks to one small, stylish detail.
Practical Styling: Integrating Retro Fastenings into Your Wardrobe
Finding and replacing fasteners is one thing; styling them is another. The goal is to make these details look intentional, not like an afterthought.
The Un-Mismatched Look
While matching fasteners can be beautiful, a curated mismatch can be even more compelling. The key is to find a common thread.
- Color Palette: If you’re using mismatched buttons on a cardigan, keep them within the same color family (e.g., a mix of amber, mustard, and brown Bakelite) or a cohesive theme (e.g., all buttons are a mix of red and white).
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Era and Material: Mix fasteners from the same era (e.g., a Bakelite buckle with Bakelite buttons) or the same material (e.g., all mother of pearl buttons in different sizes). This creates a sense of unity even with variety.
Concrete Example: On a white linen blazer, use a collection of different-sized mother of pearl buttons. The unifying factor is the material and color, but the variation in size and natural pattern makes it look like a thoughtful, unique piece rather than something mass-produced.
The Statement Zipper
Let your retro zipper be the star of the show.
- Back Detail: On a dress or top, a long, exposed metal zipper running down the back is a dramatic and visually interesting detail. Choose a contrasting color for the zipper tape (e.g., a bright yellow zipper on a navy dress) to make it pop.
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Asymmetry: A zipper doesn’t have to be perfectly centered. Install a zipper diagonally on the front of a skirt or along the side seam of a jacket. This creates an unexpected and modern silhouette while using a vintage element.
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The Faux Fastening: Sew a vintage zipper onto a garment but don’t make it functional. Simply sew it on as a decorative element. A short zipper at the end of a sleeve or on the front of a handbag can add an industrial, retro-futuristic touch.
Concrete Example: You have a plain, black sheath dress. Instead of a standard back zipper, sew in a long, gold-toned Talon zipper. Leave the top two inches unzipped and slightly open to create a small keyhole effect. This transforms a simple dress into a piece of evening wear with a hint of rebellious glamour.
The Preservation and Maintenance of Your Retro Treasures
These items have stood the test of time, and with a little care, they will last even longer.
- Cleaning Metal Zippers: To clean tarnished metal zippers, use a soft cloth and a gentle metal cleaner. Avoid harsh chemicals that could damage the fabric. For heavy tarnish, a bit of lemon juice and baking soda on a toothbrush can work wonders, but test it on a small, inconspicuous area first.
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Polishing Bakelite: Bakelite loves to be polished. Use a soft cloth and a tiny bit of mineral oil to restore its shine.
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Washing Vintage Buttons: If you’re washing a garment with vintage buttons, it’s often best to remove them first. Old plastics can become brittle and break in a washing machine. If you can’t remove them, turn the garment inside out and place it in a laundry bag to protect the buttons.
The art of finding and styling retro zippers and fastenings is a journey into the history of design and a celebration of quality craftsmanship. It is a tangible way to make your clothing unique and personal. By understanding the history, knowing where to hunt, and mastering the techniques, you can secure your vintage look with an authentic flair that will be admired for its attention to detail and timeless style.