How to Find Moccasins That Are True to Size

by

A Definitive Guide to Finding Moccasins That Are True to Size

Finding the perfect pair of moccasins is a pursuit of both style and comfort. Yet, the age-old challenge persists: how do you ensure they fit perfectly without the guesswork? Moccasins, unlike other footwear, have a unique construction that makes standard sizing less reliable. A pair that feels right in the store might stretch to be too loose, or one that feels snug might never give enough. This guide will provide you with a definitive, actionable framework to navigate the world of moccasin sizing and find a pair that feels custom-made for your feet. We’ll cut through the confusion and give you the tools to shop with confidence, both online and in-store.

Understanding the Sizing Nuances of Moccasins

Before you even start shopping, you must first understand why moccasins are a different beast entirely. The key lies in their construction. Traditional moccasins are made from a single piece of leather or suede that wraps around the foot. There’s no rigid insole, no separate sole unit, and often no structured heel counter. This minimalist design is what gives them their signature flexibility and comfort, but it also means they behave differently than a standard shoe.

The “True to Size” Paradox: When a brand claims their moccasins are “true to size,” they are often basing this on a standard shoe last. However, since the moccasin has no internal structure, it will stretch and conform to your foot’s unique shape over time. This means that a pair that feels “true to size” initially might become too loose as the material gives. Conversely, a pair that feels a little snug at first might be the perfect long-term fit. The goal isn’t to find a shoe that fits perfectly out of the box, but one that will fit perfectly after a few wears.

The Foundation: Knowing Your Foot’s Measurements

You can’t hit a target you can’t see. Before you even look at a single pair of moccasins, you need to know your foot’s precise measurements. Don’t rely on the last time you were measured for running shoes. Your foot’s size can change throughout the day and over time.

How to Measure Your Feet Accurately at Home:

  1. Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a ruler or measuring tape, a sheet of paper larger than your foot, a pen, and a wall.

  2. Evening is Best: Measure your feet in the evening when they are at their largest.

  3. The Wall Method: Place the sheet of paper on the floor against a wall. Stand on the paper with your heel lightly touching the wall.

  4. Trace and Mark: Carefully trace the outline of your foot with the pen, holding it perpendicular to the paper. Mark the very tip of your longest toe and the widest part of your foot.

  5. Measure the Length: Using your ruler, measure the distance from the wall (heel) to the mark at the tip of your longest toe. This is your foot’s length.

  6. Measure the Width: Measure the distance between the widest points of your foot.

  7. Repeat for Both Feet: Your feet are rarely the same size. Always measure both and use the larger measurements when shopping.

Example: Let’s say your left foot measures 25.5 cm in length and 9.5 cm in width, and your right foot measures 25.8 cm in length and 9.6 cm in width. You’ll use the larger measurements: 25.8 cm and 9.6 cm. When looking at a sizing chart, you’ll be looking for a size that corresponds to a 25.8 cm length.

Decoding the Moccasin Sizing Code: What to Look For

With your measurements in hand, you’re ready to start analyzing the moccasin itself. Here’s a checklist of specific, actionable points to consider.

1. Material is Everything: The material of the moccasin is the single biggest factor in how it will fit over time.

  • Suede: This is the most common material and is known for its incredible flexibility and ability to stretch and conform. If you’re buying suede moccasins, you should expect them to stretch about half a size, maybe even a full size, especially in the width. A snug initial fit is crucial here.

  • Smooth Leather: Leather is less pliable than suede and will hold its shape more. While it will still stretch a little, it won’t be as dramatic. A comfortable, but not tight, initial fit is usually the right call.

  • Deerskin: This is the softest and most pliable of all leathers. It stretches significantly. Like suede, you should expect it to give quite a bit. A very snug, borderline-tight fit is often the correct starting point.

2. Sole Type Matters: The sole of the moccasin affects the overall feel and how it will break in.

  • Barefoot/Soft Sole: These are the most traditional moccasins. With no internal support, they will conform completely to your foot’s shape. Expect maximum stretch and a very personalized fit.

  • Driving Mocs/Rubber Sole: These have a more structured sole, often with small rubber nubs. This adds some rigidity and lessens the amount of stretch you’ll experience. You can be a little less aggressive with the initial snugness.

  • Lined Moccasins: A shearling or faux-fur lining adds bulk. This is a critical point. The lining will compress over time. If they feel tight initially, remember that the lining will “mat down,” creating more room. Don’t size up immediately just because of the lining.

3. Construction Details: Look for clues in the stitching and construction.

  • Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Stitched: Hand-sewn moccasins often have more give and a less rigid structure. Machine-stitched pairs can be more consistent in sizing but may not conform as intimately.

  • Laces or Cording: If the moccasins have laces or a cording system, this is your friend. They allow for a customizable fit and can be tightened as the leather stretches, extending the life and fit of your moccasins.

Example: You’re looking at a pair of unlined, suede moccasins with a traditional soft sole. Your foot measurement is 25.8 cm. The brand’s sizing chart shows a size 8 corresponds to a 25.5 cm foot. A size 9 corresponds to a 26.5 cm foot. Given that suede will stretch, starting with the size 8 is the better choice. It will feel snug initially, but the suede will stretch to comfortably accommodate your 25.8 cm foot. If you went with the size 9, they would feel great at first but would quickly become too loose.

Practical Action Plan for In-Store Shopping

Shopping in person allows you to test the fit firsthand. Here’s a step-by-step guide to get the most out of your fitting experience.

  1. Shop in the Evening: As mentioned, your feet swell throughout the day. Trying on moccasins in the evening will give you the most accurate fit.

  2. Bring the Right Socks: Moccasins are often worn barefoot or with thin, no-show socks. Bring the type of sock you intend to wear with them. This is a small detail that makes a huge difference.

  3. The “Pinky Toe Rule”: When you first put on the moccasin, it should feel snug, especially in the width. A good test is to feel for your pinky toe. If you can wiggle it freely with plenty of room, they are likely too big and will become floppy. It should feel gently “held” and slightly restricted.

  4. The “Heel Hug”: Your heel should feel secure in the moccasin. There should be a minimal amount of slip. A little bit of heel slip is normal in new shoes, but it should feel like a gentle hug, not a sloppy, loose fit.

  5. The Thumb Test (Length): There should be about a thumb’s width of space between your longest toe and the tip of the moccasin. Any more than that and they are too long. Moccasins that are too long will cause your foot to slide forward, leading to a poor fit.

  6. Walk Around: Don’t just stand there. Walk around the store for a few minutes. Pay attention to any pressure points. While some snugness is expected, sharp, painful pressure is a red flag.

  7. The “One Size Up for Width” Myth: If the moccasins feel too tight in the width, don’t automatically jump up a size in length. This is a common mistake. Instead, look for a different style or material that is known to stretch more. Sizing up in length to accommodate width will only result in a shoe that’s too long and sloppy.

Example: You try on a size 9 of a new pair of leather driving moccasins. They feel comfortable immediately, with plenty of room for your toes to wiggle and a slight amount of heel slip. Based on the principles above, you know this is the wrong size. You try on a size 8.5. They feel snug across the toes, and your heel feels securely cupped. There’s only a small amount of slip when you walk. This is the correct size. The leather will stretch just enough to provide a perfect, personalized fit.

A Strategic Approach to Online Shopping

Online shopping for moccasins requires a different kind of diligence. Since you can’t try them on, you have to be the ultimate detective.

  1. Read the Sizing Guide and Reviews (The Right Way):
    • Sizing Guides: Always start with the brand’s specific sizing chart. They may have different measurements than a generic chart.

    • The “Fit” Description: Look for phrases like “fits true to size,” “we recommend sizing down,” or “runs a half size small.” These are your most valuable clues.

    • Review Analysis: This is where you become a detective. Don’t just read the star rating. Look for specific comments on sizing. Search for keywords like “stretch,” “snug,” “too big,” “too small.” Pay attention to what materials people are talking about. Someone who said the suede moccasins “stretched out” is giving you a key piece of information.

    • Look for Body Doubles: Find reviews from people who have similar foot shapes or measurements to your own. A person with a narrow foot will have a very different experience than someone with a wide foot.

  2. Leverage Multiple Sizes: If you are truly unsure, especially with a new brand, consider ordering two sizes, or your size and a half size down. The return process is a small price to pay for finding the perfect fit.

  3. Check for Width Options: Some brands offer different widths (B for narrow, D for standard, E for wide). If you have particularly wide or narrow feet, this is a game-changer. Don’t try to cram a wide foot into a standard moccasin. The stress on the material will cause it to break down faster.

  4. Know the Return Policy: Before you click “buy,” double-check the return policy. Ensure you have enough time to try them on at home and walk around to assess the fit.

Example: You’re online shopping for a pair of shearling-lined deerskin moccasins. The brand’s sizing chart says a size 10 is 28 cm. Your foot measures 27.5 cm. The reviews, however, repeatedly state that the deerskin and lining stretch “dramatically” and that people had to go down a full size. Several reviews mention that the size 9 was “tight at first, but now they fit perfectly.” Based on this, you’d choose the size 9, understanding they will feel very snug at first but will stretch to fit your 27.5 cm foot perfectly.

The Break-In Process: Patience is a Virtue

Once you’ve made your purchase, the journey isn’t over. Moccasins are a relationship, and they need a proper break-in period. This is where you personalize the fit.

  • Start with Short Bursts: Don’t wear your new moccasins for an entire day right out of the box. Wear them for an hour or two around the house. This allows the material to start stretching and conforming without causing discomfort or blisters.

  • Wear Socks Initially: If they are particularly snug, wearing a thin sock can help prevent blisters while still allowing the moccasin to stretch. Once they’ve loosened a bit, you can transition to wearing them barefoot.

  • The “Wet Sock” Method (Use with Caution): For stubborn areas of tightness, some people use a very gentle method: wear a damp (not soaking wet) pair of socks, then put on your moccasins and walk around for a bit. The moisture will help the leather or suede soften and stretch. This should only be used on unlined moccasins and should be done with care to avoid water damage.

  • Let Them Rest: Moccasins need to breathe. Don’t wear them every day, especially during the break-in period. Allowing them to rest and dry out will help them hold their shape better.

A Powerful Conclusion: The Final Step to Moccasin Mastery

Finding moccasins that are true to size isn’t a matter of luck; it’s a matter of strategy and understanding. By knowing your precise foot measurements, understanding how different materials and constructions behave, and adopting a smart shopping approach both in-store and online, you can eliminate the guesswork. Remember, a new pair of moccasins should feel snug, not tight. It should feel like a gentle hug, not a cramp. The goal is a fit that feels custom-made after the material has had a chance to conform to the unique contours of your foot. With this guide, you now have the tools to choose wisely and enjoy the unparalleled comfort that only a perfectly fitting pair of moccasins can provide.