The Definitive Guide to Finding Your Perfect Vintage Dungarees
Vintage dungarees, a timeless symbol of effortless cool, are a wardrobe cornerstone. Yet, the quest to find a pair that fits like a dream can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. Unlike modern mass-produced clothing with standardized sizing, vintage garments carry the unique quirks of their era, brand, and previous life. The perfect pair hugs your hips, drapes just right, and gives you that unmistakable feeling of authentic style. This guide cuts through the confusion, providing a practical, actionable roadmap to help you navigate the world of vintage dungarees and find your ultimate fit.
The Foundation: Understanding Vintage Sizing & Measurements
Before you even begin your search, you must arm yourself with knowledge. Forget the size you wear in contemporary jeans. Vintage sizing is a different language entirely. A “size 10” from the 1980s is not the same as a “size 10” today. Your most powerful tool is a measuring tape and a clear understanding of your own body measurements.
1. Know Your Numbers:
- Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your torso, typically just above your belly button. This is your high waist.
-
Hips: Measure the fullest part of your hips and buttocks. This is a crucial measurement for dungarees, as they often have a more defined hip line.
-
Inseam: Measure from the very top of your inner thigh down to where you want the hem of your dungarees to fall. For a cropped look, measure shorter. For a full-length look, measure to your ankle or even a little past.
-
Rise: This is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. This measurement dictates where the dungarees will sit on your torso. For dungarees, you’ll want to measure from your crotch up to where you want the bib to sit on your chest.
-
Bib Height & Width: The bib is the front panel. You’ll need to consider both its height (from the waistband to the top of the bib) and its width at its widest point. This ensures it doesn’t gap or feel restrictive across your chest.
2. Deciphering Vintage Sizing Tags:
Don’t trust the tag alone. A tag that says “32W x 34L” on a pair of vintage Carhartt’s will not fit the same as a modern pair with the same numbers. The waist measurement often refers to the actual circumference of the waistband, not a vanity size. The “L” is typically the inseam. However, always confirm these numbers with the seller’s provided measurements. The tag is a starting point, but the actual measurements are the final word.
Strategic Shopping: A Step-by-Step Approach
Finding the right pair isn’t about luck; it’s about a methodical approach. Whether you’re shopping online or in a physical store, this strategy will save you time and frustration.
Online Shopping: The Measurement Detective
Online shopping for vintage is a goldmine, but it requires diligence. You are the detective, and the listing details are your clues.
1. Scrutinize the Listing Photos:
- Front and Back Shots: Look at the overall shape. Is the cut straight, tapered, or wide-leg? A tapered leg might feel tighter in the calf than a straight leg. A wide-leg style will offer more room throughout.
-
Detail Shots: Examine the hardware. Are the buckles and buttons in good condition? Are there any missing buttons or broken straps? Look for close-ups of the crotch, knees, and hem to check for signs of wear and tear.
-
The Fit on the Model: Pay attention to how the dungarees fit the model, but with a critical eye. A model who is a size 4 wearing a pair that is a size 8 will make them look oversized. The seller should provide the model’s measurements and the size of the dungarees for context.
2. The Measurement Checklist: Your Non-Negotiable Rules:
Never, ever buy without a complete set of measurements. If a seller hasn’t provided them, ask. A good seller will be happy to provide them.
- Waist: The waist measurement of the dungarees should be at least 2-3 inches larger than your own natural waist measurement to allow for comfortable movement and a relaxed fit. For example, if your waist is 28 inches, look for dungarees with a 30-31 inch waistband.
-
Hips: This is the most critical measurement. The hip measurement of the dungarees should be at least 4-5 inches larger than your own hip measurement. A too-tight hip area will feel restrictive and unflattering. If your hips are 38 inches, look for a pair with hips of at least 42 inches.
-
Inseam: Compare the inseam measurement to your own. A longer inseam can be cuffed or hemmed. A shorter one is a dealbreaker unless you want a very specific cropped look.
-
Thigh: If the seller provides a thigh measurement, use it. Measure around the fullest part of your own thigh. For a comfortable fit, the dungaree thigh measurement should be at least 2-3 inches larger than your own.
-
Rise: The rise of dungarees is different from jeans. A “long rise” on jeans might mean a 12-inch rise. On dungarees, the rise is the distance from the crotch to the waistband. This measurement is key for avoiding a “camel toe” situation and ensuring the crotch doesn’t feel like it’s riding too high.
-
Bib Dimensions: Check the bib height and width. A bib that is too wide can look boxy and unflattering. A bib that is too narrow might feel restrictive across your chest.
3. The Stretch Factor:
Most vintage dungarees are 100% cotton denim with no stretch. This means you have zero wiggle room. If a seller mentions a “little stretch,” this is a relatively modern feature, and you still shouldn’t rely on it to make up for a poor fit. The measurements must be right from the start.
In-Store Shopping: The Hands-On Approach
Trying on dungarees in person is the best way to determine fit. But even here, you need a strategy.
1. The Squat Test:
Once you have a pair on, the first thing you should do is a full squat. This will immediately tell you if the crotch is too tight, the hips are too restrictive, or if the fabric is going to give you any trouble. If you can’t squat comfortably, the fit is wrong.
2. The Bending Test:
Bend over at the waist. Does the back gape? Do the straps slip? A good pair will stay in place without feeling like it’s digging into your shoulders or lower back.
3. The Walking Test:
Take a few laps around the store. Walk with a normal stride. Does the material bunch awkwardly? Do your thighs feel restricted? Does the inseam rub uncomfortably? The dungarees should feel like a second skin, not a straightjacket.
4. The Strap Adjustment:
Adjust the straps. Are they easy to tighten and loosen? Do they have enough length for you to get a comfortable fit? The straps should not be digging into your shoulders, nor should they be so loose that the bib flops down.
Common Vintage Dungaree Fits & How to Identify Them
Understanding the typical cuts from different eras and brands will help you narrow your search and find a style that complements your body.
1. Classic Workwear (Carhartt, Dickies, OshKosh):
- Fit: Tends to be a classic, straight-leg or relaxed fit. The waist is usually a mid-to-high rise. They are built for function, so they often have a more generous cut in the hips and thighs.
-
Ideal for: A relaxed, oversized look. Great for curvier figures as they provide ample room.
-
What to Look for: Triple-stitched seams, thick denim, and reinforced knees. These are built to last.
2. 90s Streetwear (Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, Faded Glory):
- Fit: These often have a baggier, more relaxed fit with a straight or wide-leg cut. The rise is typically mid-to-low. They are less about structure and more about a slouchy, effortless vibe.
-
Ideal for: Achieving a laid-back, retro aesthetic. Great for those who want a less structured, more relaxed silhouette.
-
What to Look for: The brand’s distinctive logo, often embroidered on the bib or a back pocket.
3. 70s Flare/Bell Bottoms:
- Fit: Tighter through the hips and thighs, then flares out dramatically below the knee. High-waisted.
-
Ideal for: Elongating the legs and creating a bohemian, retro feel. Best for those who want to highlight their waist and hips.
-
What to Look for: A pronounced bell-bottom opening and a snug fit through the top half.
The Art of the Alteration: Making It Yours
Even with the perfect measurements, a vintage find often needs a little tweaking to become truly “yours.” Don’t be afraid of alterations. A good tailor is your best friend.
1. Hemming:
The most common alteration is hemming. If the inseam is too long, a tailor can easily shorten it. You can also do a classic cuff yourself. The key is to make a clean, even fold.
2. Tapering the Leg:
If you love the fit of the waist and hips but the leg is too wide for your taste, a tailor can taper it for you. This is a simple alteration that can completely change the silhouette of the dungarees.
3. Adjusting the Straps:
If the straps are too long and you’ve run out of adjustment room, a tailor can shorten them at the top where they attach to the bib.
4. Repairing Damage:
Vintage items often come with a bit of history. Don’t let a small tear or a frayed hem deter you. A good tailor can expertly patch a hole or repair a seam, adding to the character of the garment.
The Final Touch: Styling Your Vintage Dungarees
Once you’ve found the perfect fit, the fun begins. Vintage dungarees are incredibly versatile.
- For a Classic Look: Pair them with a simple white T-shirt and some canvas sneakers.
-
For a Feminine Twist: Wear a fitted turtleneck or a lace-trimmed camisole underneath.
-
For a Casual Vibe: Throw on a chunky knit sweater and some combat boots.
-
For a Polished Outfit: A structured blazer over the top and a pair of loafers can elevate the entire look.
Finding the perfect pair of vintage dungarees is a rewarding journey. It’s an investment in a unique, high-quality garment that will tell a story for years to come. By prioritizing measurements over sizes, understanding different fits, and being open to small alterations, you can navigate the vintage world with confidence and find a pair that feels like it was made just for you. Your ultimate pair is out there, waiting.