Navigating the vast and vibrant world of tartan can be both exhilarating and overwhelming. With thousands of patterns, a history stretching back centuries, and a modern resurgence in high fashion, choosing the right tartan can feel like a monumental task. The ultimate key to unlocking a tartan that truly sings on you, however, lies in a fundamental principle of style: finding colors that complement your natural coloring. This guide will walk you through a clear, actionable process to identify the perfect tartan for your unique skin tone, hair color, and eye color, ensuring your chosen pattern doesn’t just hang on you, but truly belongs.
The Foundation: Understanding Your Undertones
Before we even begin to look at tartan swatches, you need to understand your skin’s undertone. This is the color beneath the surface of your skin, and it’s a constant, unlike the surface color which can change with sun exposure. There are three primary undertones: warm, cool, and neutral.
- Warm Undertones: Your skin has a golden, peachy, or yellow-ish hue.
-
Cool Undertones: Your skin has a pink, red, or bluish hue.
-
Neutral Undertones: Your skin has a mix of both, or no dominant hue.
How to Find Your Undertone: The Vein Test and the Jewelry Test
- The Vein Test: Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural light.
- If your veins appear green, you have warm undertones.
-
If your veins appear blue or purple, you have cool undertones.
-
If you can’t tell if they’re green or blue, you likely have neutral undertones.
-
The Jewelry Test: Hold a piece of silver jewelry and a piece of gold jewelry against your skin.
- If silver jewelry makes your skin look radiant and healthy, you likely have cool undertones.
-
If gold jewelry makes your skin glow, you likely have warm undertones.
-
If both look good on you, you’re likely neutral.
Practical Application: Once you’ve identified your undertone, you’ve established the foundational color palette that will naturally harmonize with your skin. This is the single most important step in finding the right tartan.
Tartans for Warm Undertones: The Earthy and the Vibrant
Individuals with warm undertones shine in tartans with a strong presence of warm colors. Think of the rich hues of a sunset or the deep tones of a forest in autumn.
Key Tartan Colors for Warm Undertones:
- Reds: Rust red, brick red, crimson, and deep maroons. Avoid bright, true reds which can clash.
-
Greens: Olive green, forest green, moss green, and deep emeralds.
-
Yellows/Golds: Ochre, mustard, and golden yellows.
-
Browns: Chocolate brown, chestnut, and all earthy tones.
-
Neutrals: Cream, ivory, and warm beiges.
Concrete Examples of Tartans for Warm Undertones:
- MacDonald of the Isles: This is a fantastic example. The deep red is a perfect brick red, not a cool, blue-based red. It’s balanced by dark greens and blacks, which are excellent for warm tones.
-
MacLeod of Harris: The bright yellow is a mustard-ochre shade, not a lemon yellow. This, combined with the deep black and green, makes it incredibly flattering for warm skin.
-
Lindsay Tartan: The rich reds and deep blues in this tartan work because the red is a warm, almost orange-toned red. The key is how the colors interact. The deep blue acts as a counterpoint, but the overall warmth of the red and the subtlety of the black make it work.
Actionable Advice for Warm Undertones:
- When looking at a tartan, mentally filter for the dominant color. Is it a golden yellow or a lemon yellow? Is it a rust red or a cherry red? Your eye should be drawn to the warmer hues.
-
If a tartan has blue, ensure it’s a deep navy or a warm, almost purple-ish blue, not a bright sky blue.
-
Don’t be afraid of black. Black is a great anchor color, and its presence in a tartan allows the warmer colors to truly pop without overwhelming the wearer.
Tartans for Cool Undertones: The Icy and the Bold
Cool-toned individuals look best in tartans featuring colors with blue, purple, or pink bases. These colors mimic the natural flush and coolness of the skin, creating a cohesive and polished look.
Key Tartan Colors for Cool Undertones:
- Blues: Royal blue, navy, sky blue, and all shades with a blue base.
-
Reds: True red, cherry red, and vibrant raspberry. Avoid orange-based reds.
-
Pinks/Purples: Fuschia, plum, lavender, and rich magentas.
-
Greens: Blue-based greens, such as hunter green, teal, and pine.
-
Neutrals: True white, cool gray, and charcoal.
Concrete Examples of Tartans for Cool Undertones:
- Royal Stewart: The iconic bright red of this tartan is a classic cherry red, a perfect match for cool undertones. The balance of blue, green, and yellow accents is expertly done to complement the primary color, rather than fighting with it.
-
Mackenzie: This tartan’s rich, deep navy blue is the dominant color, making it an excellent choice. The balance of black and subtle green prevents it from being too severe, while the cool blue remains the star.
-
Gordon: The deep blue and green combination of the Gordon tartan is a quintessential cool-toned palette. The yellow is a sharp accent, not an overall hue, making it a great, classic choice.
Actionable Advice for Cool Undertones:
- Actively seek out tartans with a strong presence of blue or true red. These colors are your allies.
-
Beware of tartans with a heavy presence of orange, mustard yellow, or olive green. These will wash you out and clash with your skin’s natural pinkish tones.
-
Embrace the contrast. Cool tones can handle bold, clear colors beautifully. Don’t shy away from vibrant patterns; they’ll look much more intentional and balanced on you.
Tartans for Neutral Undertones: The Versatile and the Balanced
If you have neutral undertones, you have a wider range of options. You can wear both warm and cool colors, but the key is to find tartans that have a balanced mix of both or to lean into colors that are neither overly warm nor overly cool.
Key Tartan Colors for Neutral Undertones:
- Reds: True red, neither too orange nor too blue.
-
Greens: A balanced forest green, not too blue or too yellow.
-
Blues: Deep navy, teal, and a balanced royal blue.
-
Neutrals: Black, true white, and charcoal gray.
Concrete Examples of Tartans for Neutral Undertones:
- Black Watch (Campbell): This tartan is the ultimate neutral-friendly pattern. Its deep blue and green are so perfectly balanced that they work on almost everyone, regardless of undertone. It’s a classic for a reason.
-
MacGregor: This is a more vibrant option. The balance of a warm-toned red and a deep, cool-toned green allows a neutral person to wear it without any color clashing.
-
Hunting Stewart: A classic with a balanced blend of greens and blues, and a touch of red. The overall effect is harmonious, neither leaning too heavily to one side.
Actionable Advice for Neutral Undertones:
- When a tartan seems to have a strong warm or cool element, try it on anyway. Your balanced undertone might be the perfect canvas to make the color truly shine.
-
Focus on tartans where the colors are well-integrated and don’t seem to be fighting each other.
-
You have the most flexibility, so experiment. A tartan that looks overwhelmingly warm might be perfectly balanced by your neutral skin tone, making it look incredibly rich and deliberate.
Beyond Undertones: Hair and Eye Color as Tiebreakers
While undertone is the most critical factor, your hair and eye color can serve as a powerful tiebreaker, helping you decide between two tartans that both seem to work. They can either amplify a tartan’s colors or create a stunning contrast.
1. Pairing with Hair Color:
- Dark Hair (Black, Dark Brown): Tartans with lighter, brighter colors will create a beautiful contrast. A dark-haired person in a bright yellow MacLeod of Harris tartan is a striking image.
-
Light Hair (Blonde, Ash Blonde, Light Brown): Tartans with deeper, richer colors provide a grounding effect. A blonde person in a deep, dark Mackenzie tartan is classic and elegant.
-
Red Hair: This is a special case. Redheads can either match their hair’s warmth with warm-toned tartans (rust, green) or create a vivid contrast with cool, blue-based tartans. The blue-green Gordon tartan, for example, looks absolutely stunning on a redhead.
-
Gray/White Hair: This is where you can be bold. Your hair provides a neutral, high-contrast backdrop. A vibrant tartan like the Royal Stewart will look incredibly sophisticated and intentional.
2. Pairing with Eye Color:
- Blue Eyes: Look for tartans with blue or green accents. The MacKenzie tartan, with its deep blue base, will make blue eyes pop.
-
Green Eyes: Tartans with forest greens, deep blues, or even a touch of rust can be a phenomenal choice. The MacLeod of Harris tartan, with its strong green and gold, will pull out the gold flecks in green eyes.
-
Brown Eyes: Brown eyes are incredibly versatile. They can handle a wide range of tartans. Lean into tartans with earthy tones for a harmonious look, or go for vibrant colors for a striking contrast. The deep red and black of the MacDonald of the Isles tartan will look rich and captivating.
The Try-On Test: The Ultimate Decider
You’ve done the groundwork: you know your undertone, and you have some ideas based on your hair and eye color. Now comes the most important step: the try-on test.
How to Conduct an Effective Try-On Test:
- Use Natural Light: Artificial light can dramatically alter how colors appear. Try to do this in front of a window or outdoors.
-
Wear a Neutral Color: When trying on a tartan scarf or a kilt, wear a neutral-colored shirt (white, black, gray) so that no other colors are influencing your perception.
-
Hold it Against Your Face: The most critical area to test is near your face. Hold the tartan fabric up to your jawline and neck.
-
Observe the Effects:
- Does your skin look healthy, vibrant, and clear? This is a good sign.
-
Does the tartan make your skin look sallow, pale, or uneven? This is a sign of a bad color match.
-
Do your eyes and hair seem to brighten or look more defined? This is a great sign.
-
Does the tartan overwhelm you, or does it feel like a natural part of your look?
Conclusion: Tartan as an Extension of Yourself
Finding the right tartan for your skin tone is a process of self-discovery. It’s not about memorizing a list of “approved” tartans, but about understanding the principles of color theory and applying them to your unique self. By starting with your undertone and using your hair and eye color as powerful accents, you can confidently navigate the world of tartan and choose a pattern that feels like a genuine extension of your identity. A well-chosen tartan doesn’t just represent a clan or a history; it represents you, in all your natural, colorful glory.