How to Find Vintage Overalls: A Treasure Hunter’s Guide

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The Ultimate Treasure Hunt: A Guide to Finding the Perfect Vintage Overalls

Vintage overalls are more than just a piece of clothing; they’re a statement of effortless cool, a nod to history, and a testament to enduring style. From the rugged denim of a 1940s railroad worker to the playful corduroy of the 70s, each pair tells a story. But finding that perfect, unique pair isn’t as simple as clicking “add to cart.” It’s a treasure hunt, a strategic quest that requires a keen eye, a bit of patience, and a deep understanding of where to look and what to look for. This guide is your definitive map to uncovering those one-of-a-kind vintage overalls. We’ll bypass the generic advice and dive deep into actionable, practical strategies to help you build a collection of authentic, stylish, and long-lasting dungarees.

The Foundation of the Hunt: Knowing Your Why and What

Before you even begin to search, you need a clear vision. The world of vintage overalls is vast, and without a focus, you’ll be overwhelmed. Ask yourself a few key questions to narrow your scope and make your hunt more efficient.

1. Define Your Desired Era and Style: Are you drawn to the classic, boxy fit of the pre-1970s workwear? Do the flared legs and intricate embroidery of the 70s speak to you? Or is the baggy, hip-hop-inspired silhouette of the 90s more your speed? Knowing your preferred era will help you recognize authentic pieces and avoid modern reproductions.

  • 1940s-1960s: Look for stiff, heavy denim (often selvedge), single-needle stitching, and features like tool pockets and hammer loops. Brands like Big Mac, OshKosh B’gosh (pre-1970s), and Carhartt are your gold standard.

  • 1970s-1980s: This is the era of flares, bell bottoms, and sometimes patchwork. Corduroy becomes popular. Look for brands like Wrangler, Lee, and Sears Roebuck. The denim is often lighter and softer than earlier decades.

  • 1990s: Think relaxed fits, wider straps, and a heavier emphasis on branding. Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, and classic workwear brands with a streetwear twist are common.

2. Master the Vocabulary of Vintage: The language used to describe vintage clothing is a code you need to crack.

  • Deadstock: New, unworn vintage with original tags. These are rare and expensive but in pristine condition.

  • Selvedge Denim: A type of denim woven on a shuttle loom, creating a clean, finished edge. It’s a hallmark of high-quality, pre-1980s denim. Look for a distinct, often red or blue, line along the seam when you cuff the hem.

  • Union Made: A tag or label indicating the garment was made by a unionized worker. It’s a sign of quality and often helps date a piece to a specific era.

  • Chain Stitching: A specific type of stitching pattern often found on vintage denim. It’s a sign of authenticity and quality.

  • Sanforized/Unsanforized: Sanforized denim is pre-shrunk, meaning it won’t shrink much after washing. Unsanforized (raw) denim will shrink significantly. This is crucial for sizing.

3. Set Your Non-Negotiables: Are you okay with minor flaws, or are you only interested in mint condition? What’s your budget? Do you have a specific size requirement? Answering these questions upfront will prevent you from wasting time on pieces that don’t meet your criteria.

The Digital Dig: Navigating Online Marketplaces

The internet has opened up the world of vintage like never before. But it’s also a minefield of misrepresented items and high prices. Here’s how to become a master online vintage shopper.

1. Strategic Keyword Searching: Don’t just type “vintage overalls.” Be specific and creative. Use a variety of keywords to uncover hidden gems.

  • Brand + Era: “1970s Lee overalls”

  • Brand + Style: “Sears Roebuck denim bibs”

  • Specific Features: “selvedge overalls,” “hickory stripe bibs,” “embroidered denim dungarees”

  • Alternative Terms: “vintage dungarees,” “vintage jumpsuits” (sometimes they’re mislabeled), “deadstock overalls”

  • Misspellings: People often misspell brand names. Try “Oshkosh B’gosh,” “Lee,” and “Carhartt” with common misspellings to see what pops up.

2. The Art of Image Analysis: The images are your only way to inspect the item. Become a detective.

  • Close-ups are Key: Look for close-ups of stitching, hardware (buttons, buckles), and labels. Are the buttons stamped with a brand logo? Does the stitching look even and solid, or is it frayed and loose?

  • Check the Fabric: Can you see the texture of the denim or corduroy? Is it stiff and heavy, or soft and thin? Does it have any signs of wear, fading, or distressing?

  • Inspect the Tags: A clear photo of the brand label, size tag, and care instructions is gold. Use this information to cross-reference the piece’s authenticity and age.

  • Look for Flaws: The seller should be honest about any holes, stains, or repairs. A lack of flaw photos is a red flag. Look for small pinholes, frayed edges, or faded spots that aren’t mentioned in the description.

3. Sizing Savvy: Don’t Trust the Tag: Vintage sizes are notoriously different from modern sizes. Never, ever buy based on the tag alone.

  • Ask for Measurements: Request specific measurements: waist (measured flat), inseam, and bib length. Compare these to a pair of overalls you already own that fit well.

  • Understand the Fit: Overalls are meant to be a little loose. If a seller gives you a waist measurement of 34 inches, and you wear a modern size 32, this might be a perfect fit. Use your own measurements as a reference, not a hard rule.

  • Account for Shrinkage: If the denim is unsanforized, factor in a few inches of shrinkage after the first wash. A seller should be able to tell you if the item has been washed before.

4. The Top Online Hunting Grounds:

  • Etsy: The best for curated vintage and boutique sellers. Prices can be higher, but the quality and curation are often excellent. Use specific keywords and check seller reviews.

  • eBay: A vast and sometimes overwhelming marketplace. It requires patience and a good eye. Use the “auction” and “buy it now” filters to your advantage. Be prepared to haggle or bid strategically.

  • Depop & Poshmark: These are more peer-to-peer marketplaces. You can find some incredible deals, but you need to be very careful about authenticity. Ask for detailed photos and measurements.

  • Dedicated Vintage Sites: Sites like The RealReal or Vestiaire Collective can offer high-end, authenticated vintage, but the prices will reflect this.

The Real-World Expedition: Thrifts, Flea Markets, and Consignment Shops

The thrill of the physical hunt is unparalleled. You get to touch, feel, and try on the overalls before you buy. But you need a strategy.

1. The Thrift Store Grind: This is where the true treasure hunters are born. It’s a game of luck, patience, and a system.

  • Go Often, Go Fast: The best finds disappear quickly. Make thrifting a regular habit, and do a quick scan of the denim and workwear sections.

  • Learn the Signs: Look for the telltale signs of vintage on the hangers: unique stitching, heavy denim, metal clasps, or labels that look different from modern clothing.

  • Check the Men’s Section: Vintage overalls are often misfiled or found in the men’s section. Don’t be afraid to dig through racks that aren’t your typical size or gender.

  • Inspect Before You Buy: This is crucial. Check for irreparable stains, major tears, or broken zippers. Try them on if you can. If not, hold them up and visualize the fit.

2. Flea Markets and Antique Malls: These are often curated with more vintage items, but the prices can be higher.

  • Don’t Be Afraid to Haggle: Sellers at flea markets expect it. Be polite, offer a reasonable price, and be willing to walk away.

  • Talk to the Seller: Many sellers are experts in their niche. Ask them about the history of the piece, the brand, and where they found it. This is how you learn and build your knowledge.

  • Look Beyond the Display: The best items are often tucked away in boxes or on racks that aren’t immediately visible. Ask if they have more in the back.

3. Consignment Shops and Vintage Boutiques: The easiest way to buy high-quality, pre-curated vintage.

  • You’re Paying for the Curation: Prices will be higher than a thrift store, but the quality is guaranteed. The item has been inspected and, in many cases, professionally cleaned.

  • Focus on Fit and Style: At this point, you’re looking for the perfect fit and style that aligns with your vision. You’ve done the hard work of finding the right place; now it’s about the final selection.

Post-Hunt Essentials: Cleaning, Care, and Styling

You’ve found the perfect pair of vintage overalls. Congratulations! But the journey isn’t over. Proper care is essential to preserving your new treasure.

1. The First Wash: Vintage items often have a history of dirt, dust, and who knows what else.

  • Hand Wash or Delicate Cycle: Use cold water and a gentle, pH-neutral detergent. Turn the overalls inside out to protect the color.

  • Air Dry is Best: The dryer can be brutal on vintage fabrics, causing them to shrink, fade, and degrade. Hang them to dry in a shady spot.

2. Mending and Repairs: Don’t discard a pair with a small flaw. Embrace it.

  • Patching is Part of the Aesthetic: A small patch on a knee or a frayed hem adds to the character. Use a contrasting fabric or a vintage patch for a unique look.

  • Find a Good Tailor: If you’re not a sewing expert, find a tailor who understands vintage fabrics. They can fix zippers, mend seams, and make sure your overalls last for years to come.

3. Styling Your Vintage Overalls:

  • Keep it Simple: Let the overalls be the star of the show. Pair them with a simple white t-shirt, a fitted tank top, or a classic striped long-sleeve shirt.

  • Layering is Key: In colder weather, layer a hoodie, a denim jacket, or a chunky knit sweater underneath.

  • Accessorize with a Purpose: A vintage bandana, a leather belt, or a classic pair of sneakers can complete the look without overpowering it.

The quest for the perfect pair of vintage overalls is a rewarding and enriching experience. It’s about connecting with a past era, understanding the craftsmanship of durable clothing, and developing a unique style that is truly your own. By mastering the art of the hunt, from strategic online searches to real-world expeditions, you’ll not only find a new favorite piece of clothing, but you’ll also become a part of the rich history it carries.