How to Find Your Perfect Plum Lipstick Shade.

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A plum lipstick is more than just a color; it’s a statement. It can be sophisticated, edgy, or subtly romantic. But finding the perfect plum, the one that makes your skin glow and your smile pop, can feel like a quest. With its vast spectrum from deep, almost-black plums to lighter, berry-infused hues, this guide will equip you with the practical, no-fluff knowledge you need to find your perfect shade. Forget generic advice and endless swatching; we’re going to break down the process with a strategic approach based on your unique undertone, skin tone, and personal style.

The Plum Spectrum: Understanding the Nuances

Before we dive into the ‘how-to,’ let’s define what we’re looking for. Plum isn’t a single color. It’s a family of shades, a rich blend of red, blue, and purple. Your perfect shade exists somewhere within this family. To find it, you need to understand the sub-categories:

  • Deep, Dark Plums: These are often mistaken for burgundy or a dark berry. They have a dominant black or brown base, making them dramatic and intense. Think of a perfectly ripe, dark plum.

  • True Plums: These are the quintessential plum shades. They have an equal balance of red and blue undertones, giving them a rich, vibrant purple hue. They are neither too dark nor too light.

  • Red-Plums (Berry Plums): These shades lean more towards the red side of the spectrum. They are warmer, brighter, and often have a juicy, berry-like quality.

  • Blue-Plums (Orchid Plums): These are cooler-toned plums with a strong blue or violet base. They can appear more vibrant or electric on the lips, depending on the intensity.

  • Mauve-Plums: These are muted, dusty plums. They often have a gray or brown undertone, making them more understated and perfect for everyday wear.

Your first step is to identify which of these sub-families will be your starting point. This is where your personal characteristics and preferences come into play.

Step 1: Unearthing Your Undertone

This is the single most critical factor in finding your perfect plum. Your undertone is the subtle hue beneath the surface of your skin, and it determines how a color will appear on you. Getting this wrong is the number one reason a lipstick looks “off.”

How to Identify Your Undertone:

  • The Vein Test: Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural light.
    • If they look blue or purple, you have cool undertones.

    • If they look green, you have warm undertones.

    • If they appear to be a mix of both, you likely have neutral undertones.

  • The Jewelry Test: Consider which metal looks best on you.

    • Silver and platinum are more flattering on cool undertones.

    • Gold looks more stunning on warm undertones.

    • Both look equally great if you have neutral undertones.

  • The Sun Test: How does your skin react to sun exposure?

    • If you burn easily and rarely tan, you have cool undertones.

    • If you tan easily and rarely burn, you have warm undertones.

    • If you burn and then tan, you have neutral undertones.

Applying Undertone to Plum Shades:

  • Cool Undertones: Seek out plums with a strong blue or violet base. These are your blue-plums and true plums. Avoid anything with too much red or brown, as it can clash and look muddy against your skin. A great example would be a plum that leans towards a deep fuchsia.
    • Actionable Tip: When swatching, look for a plum that looks more purple than red. A plum that appears like a deep, cool berry is a good sign.
  • Warm Undertones: Your perfect plums have a strong red, brown, or terracotta base. Look for red-plums and plums that have a hint of warmth. Steer clear of plums with too much blue, as they can make your skin look sallow or washed out. Think of a ripe plum with a touch of mahogany.
    • Actionable Tip: When swatching, look for a plum that looks like a rich berry or has a hint of dusty rose. If it looks too vibrant and purple, it’s likely too cool for you.
  • Neutral Undertones: You are the lucky ones. You can pull off a wide range of plums. The key is to find a shade that is balanced. True plums and mauve-plums are your sweet spot. You can experiment with both warm and cool plums, but a truly balanced shade will be your most versatile.
    • Actionable Tip: You can use your skin’s natural shade as a guide. If your skin is on the fairer side, a lighter plum will be less jarring. If your skin is deeper, a richer plum will be more striking.

Step 2: Matching Plum to Your Skin Tone

Once you’ve zeroed in on the right undertone, the next step is to match the depth of the plum to the depth of your skin tone. A plum that is too light on a deep skin tone will look chalky, while one that is too dark on a fair skin tone can look harsh and aging.

  • Fair to Light Skin Tones: The goal is to choose a plum that provides contrast without being overwhelming.
    • Best Bets: Lighter, more sheer plums. Look for mauve-plums or berry-plums that have a softer, more subtle presence. A deep, dark plum can work, but it will be a high-impact, very dramatic look.

    • Actionable Example: Instead of a pure black-cherry plum, a lighter plum with a hint of rose or a sheer, buildable berry stain would be a better starting point. Try a sheer lipstick first to test the waters.

  • Medium to Olive Skin Tones: You have the most versatility. Medium skin tones can handle a wider range of both light and dark plums.

    • Best Bets: You can wear almost any shade, but a true plum or a red-plum will be particularly stunning. The rich depth of a medium skin tone complements the intensity of a plum shade beautifully.

    • Actionable Example: An intense, matte plum with a balanced red-blue base will look sophisticated and vibrant. You can also pull off a rich, deep berry-plum for a warmer look.

  • Dark to Deep Skin Tones: The richness of a deep skin tone is the perfect canvas for a bold, saturated plum.

    • Best Bets: Go for deep, dark plums with a strong pigment. The deeper the skin tone, the more saturated the plum can be. Deep, dark plums with a brown or red base will look incredibly rich and beautiful. Avoid very light, pastel-like plums, as they can look chalky.

    • Actionable Example: An almost-black plum, or a plum with a strong mahogany undertone, will create a luxurious and striking effect. Don’t be afraid to go for a true, deep purple-black shade. The contrast will be stunning.

Step 3: Considering Finish and Formula

The finish of a lipstick—matte, satin, cream, or gloss—drastically changes how the plum shade looks and feels. This is where you can fine-tune your choice based on your lifestyle and desired look.

  • Matte Finish: A matte plum is the most impactful and long-lasting. It provides a flat, opaque color that looks modern and bold.
    • When to Choose: For a dramatic, high-fashion look. If you want your lips to be the focus of your makeup.

    • Actionable Tip: Matte formulas can be drying. Prep your lips with a gentle exfoliant and a hydrating lip balm before application for a smooth finish.

  • Satin Finish: A satin plum has a soft sheen. It’s a classic finish that is universally flattering. It’s less dramatic than a matte but more polished than a sheer gloss.

    • When to Choose: For an everyday, polished look. If you want the color payoff of a matte but with a more comfortable feel.

    • Actionable Tip: A satin finish is more forgiving than a matte. It won’t highlight dry patches as much.

  • Cream Finish: A cream plum is rich, comfortable, and has a slight shine. It’s a great choice for a juicy, healthy-looking lip.

    • When to Choose: When you want a vibrant, comfortable, and moisturizing lipstick. Perfect for dry lips.

    • Actionable Tip: Cream formulas can be prone to feathering. Use a clear or matching lip liner to keep the color from bleeding outside the lip line.

  • Sheer or Glossy Finish: A sheer plum adds a wash of color with a lot of shine. It’s the most subtle way to wear plum.

    • When to Choose: For a low-maintenance, everyday look. If you are new to plum lipstick and want to ease into it.

    • Actionable Tip: A glossy plum is a great way to wear a dark shade without it looking too severe. You can also layer a sheer gloss over a matte lipstick to change the finish.

Step 4: The In-Store Swatching Strategy

Now that you have all the theoretical knowledge, it’s time to put it into practice. Don’t just swipe on your hand. There’s a right way to swatch to ensure you’re making the best decision.

The Swatch Test:

  1. Don’t Swatch on Your Hand: The skin on your hands is a different color and texture than your lips. Swatch on your inner wrist or, even better, on your fingertips. The skin on your fingertips is a closer match to your lip color and the surrounding area.

  2. Compare Side-by-Side: Select three potential shades: one that you think is your perfect match, one that is a little warmer, and one that is a little cooler. Swatch them side-by-side. This will make the subtle undertone differences much more obvious.

  3. Check in Different Lighting: Fluorescent store lighting is notoriously deceptive. Take a photo of the swatches under the store lights, and then walk outside or to a window to see them in natural light. This is crucial. A plum that looks perfect under a cool-toned light might look completely different under a warm-toned sun.

  4. Check for “The Glow”: Your perfect plum lipstick will do more than just color your lips; it will make your entire face look brighter and more alive. It should make your teeth look whiter and your eyes look more vibrant. If it makes your skin look sallow or your teeth look yellow, it’s not the right shade, regardless of how much you like the color in the tube.

  5. Don’t Rush the Final Decision: Take your top two or three contenders and try them on your lips. Cleanse your lips between swatches. Wear the shade for a few minutes to see how it settles. The color can oxidize slightly on your lips, changing the final look.

Bringing It All Together: Concrete Examples

Let’s apply all these rules to a few common scenarios.

  • Scenario A: Cool Undertone, Fair Skin: You are looking for a plum that doesn’t overwhelm your light complexion.
    • What to Look For: A sheer, buildable blue-plum or a muted mauve-plum.

    • What to Avoid: A deep, brown-based plum that will look too heavy. A bright, true red-plum that will clash with your cool undertones.

    • Actionable Example: Instead of a heavily pigmented, matte burgundy, you might choose a sheer lip stain in a dusty, cool-toned orchid shade.

  • Scenario B: Warm Undertone, Medium Skin: You want a plum that complements your natural warmth without looking too purple.

    • What to Look For: A rich, satin-finish red-plum or a true plum with a hint of brown.

    • What to Avoid: A super cool-toned, blue-based plum that will make your skin look sallow. A plum that is too light and looks chalky.

    • Actionable Example: You could successfully wear a rich, matte plum that has a touch of brick red in it, or a creamy lipstick in a deep, berry shade.

  • Scenario C: Neutral Undertone, Deep Skin: You want a powerful, dramatic plum that highlights your rich complexion.

    • What to Look For: A deep, highly pigmented plum with a brown or mahogany base. A true, intense plum is also an option.

    • What to Avoid: A very light, sheer plum that won’t have enough pigment to show up. Plums with a strong gray undertone that can look dull.

    • Actionable Example: A full-coverage, satin plum with a brown-black base will look incredibly luxurious. An intense, blue-based plum will also be a striking, vibrant choice.

Final Takeaway: Your Plum, Your Rules

Finding your perfect plum lipstick is a process of elimination and discovery. By strategically using your undertone as your compass, your skin tone as your guide to depth, and the finish as your tool for expression, you can navigate the vast world of plum shades with confidence. Trust your instincts, but let these practical steps be your roadmap. Your perfect plum is out there, waiting to make its mark.