A gentleman’s guide to cufflinks: How to get started
Cufflinks are more than just a functional accessory; they are a subtle yet powerful statement of style, a detail that separates the sartorially aware from the rest. For the uninitiated, the world of cufflinks can seem intimidating. What’s the difference between a whale back and a bullet back? How do you even put them on? And when should you wear them? This guide will demystify the process, providing a clear, actionable roadmap to confidently purchasing and wearing your first pair of cufflinks.
Understanding the basics: Anatomy of a cufflink
Before you can choose your first pair, you need to understand the components. Cufflinks are not all created equal, and knowing the parts will help you make an informed decision.
The face
This is the decorative part of the cufflink. It can be a simple stud, an intricate design, a gemstone, or an enamel piece. The face is the most visible part of the cufflink and is where you express your personal style. For your first pair, consider a classic, understated face that is versatile enough to be worn with a variety of outfits. A simple silver or gold-toned stud is an excellent starting point.
The post
The post is the part of the cufflink that goes through the buttonholes on your shirt cuff. It is attached to the face and the toggle. The post can be straight or slightly curved, depending on the design.
The toggle
The toggle is the moving part of the cufflink that secures it in place. It’s the most crucial functional component. The type of toggle determines how the cufflink is put on and secured.
Types of toggles: The four main styles
- Whale back: This is one of the most common and easiest toggles to use. It features a flat, paddle-like toggle that flips 90 degrees to secure the cufflink. To use it, you simply flip the whale’s tail to a horizontal position, slide it through the buttonholes, and then flip it back to a vertical position to secure.
Practical example: A silver-toned whale back cufflink with a simple onyx face is a classic choice for a first pair. It’s easy to use and goes with everything from a dark suit to a navy blazer.
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Bullet back: Similar to the whale back, the bullet back has a cylindrical toggle that flips to lock. It’s also very easy to use and widely available.
Practical example: A pair of gold-toned bullet back cufflinks with a mother-of-pearl face would be a perfect complement to a light-colored shirt and suit.
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Fixed back: As the name suggests, the fixed back toggle does not move. It is a solid, often decorative, component that is permanently attached to the post. Fixed-back cufflinks can be slightly more challenging to put on, but they offer a very secure fit.
Practical example: A high-end pair of double-sided cufflinks, where both the face and the back are decorative, often use a fixed back. A classic example is a pair with an ornate knot design on both sides.
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Chain link: This is a more traditional and elegant style. The two decorative ends are connected by a small chain. Chain link cufflinks require a bit more dexterity to put on but are a timeless choice.
Practical example: A pair of chain link cufflinks with a classic filigree pattern on both ends would be an excellent choice for a formal event or a black-tie affair.
The essential shirt: French cuffs
Cufflinks are designed to be worn with shirts that have French cuffs, also known as double cuffs. These shirts do not have buttons on the cuffs. Instead, they have two buttonholes on each cuff. The cuff is folded back on itself, and the cufflink is used to hold the two layers of fabric together.
Actionable advice: Before you buy your cufflinks, make sure you have a shirt with French cuffs. If you don’t, your cufflinks will have no purpose. A classic white or light blue French cuff shirt is a versatile foundation for any wardrobe.
Choosing your first pair: A practical approach
Your first pair of cufflinks should be versatile, easy to use, and reflective of your personal style without being overly bold.
The material: Metal and color
The material of your cufflinks is a key factor in their versatility and formality.
- Silver-toned metals (sterling silver, rhodium-plated brass): These are the most versatile and are a safe choice for a first pair. They pair well with almost any color shirt and suit. They are a classic and timeless option.
Practical example: A pair of sterling silver cufflinks with a simple, polished finish can be worn with a charcoal suit for a business meeting or with a navy blazer for a smart-casual event.
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Gold-toned metals (gold, gold-plated brass): Gold cufflinks are often seen as more formal and traditional. They pair beautifully with warmer tones like brown, tan, and cream.
Practical example: A pair of classic gold-toned cufflinks would be a perfect match for a light brown suit and a cream-colored shirt for a daytime wedding.
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Gunmetal or black: These are modern and sophisticated choices that work well with darker-colored suits and shirts. They can add a touch of edgy elegance.
Practical example: A pair of gunmetal cufflinks with a geometric design would look sharp with a black suit and a dark gray shirt for an evening event.
The face: Design and style
Keep it simple for your first pair. The goal is to have a versatile accessory that you can wear in many situations.
- Solid colors (onyx, mother-of-pearl, enamel): These are a classic and safe choice. Onyx is a deep black and very versatile. Mother-of-pearl has a beautiful iridescent quality that is elegant and traditional. Enamel cufflinks can add a pop of color without being too loud.
Practical example: A pair of black onyx cufflinks will go with any shirt and suit combination you own, making it a perfect first choice.
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Simple geometric shapes (round, square, oval): These are timeless and understated. A simple polished metal circle or square is a great way to start.
Practical example: A pair of circular, brushed metal cufflinks would add a subtle texture and visual interest without drawing too much attention.
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Knot designs: Knot-style cufflinks, often made of silk or metal, are a classic and elegant option. They are a little less formal than solid metal studs, making them versatile for both business and social occasions.
Practical example: A pair of gold-toned knot cufflinks would be a great accessory for a Friday at the office or a dinner date.
Actionable advice: The three-pair rule
If you can, consider starting with three pairs of cufflinks. This will give you a versatile foundation for any occasion.
- The classic pair: A simple silver-toned whale back with a black onyx face. This is your workhorse pair.
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The formal pair: A gold-toned fixed back or chain link with a mother-of-pearl face. This is for weddings, galas, and other formal events.
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The fun pair: A pair with a unique design or a pop of color, like a pair with blue enamel or a knot design. This is for expressing your personality on more casual occasions.
The art of wearing cufflinks: A step-by-step guide
Putting on cufflinks is simple once you get the hang of it. Here’s a clear, step-by-step guide.
- Don the shirt: Put on your French cuff shirt.
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Fold the cuff: Fold back the cuff of the shirt. You will now see two buttonholes on each side of the cuff.
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Align the holes: Align the buttonholes so they are perfectly on top of each other. The fabric of the cuff should be folded back so that the two layers of fabric lie flat against each other.
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Insert the cufflink: With the face of the cufflink on the outside of your wrist, push the post through all four layers of buttonholes (two on each side).
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Secure the toggle: Once the post is through, flip the toggle to the locked position. For a whale back or bullet back, this means turning it 90 degrees. For a chain link, you simply pull the cufflink through.
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Adjust the cuff: Adjust the cuff so that it sits neatly on your wrist, with the face of the cufflink visible and facing outward.
Actionable advice: Practice this a few times before you need to wear them out. It may feel a bit awkward at first, but it quickly becomes second nature.
Wearing them the right way: Rules and etiquette
- Occasion is key: Cufflinks are a formal accessory. They are not meant for T-shirts or polo shirts. They belong with a suit, a tuxedo, or at least a blazer.
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Match your metals: Try to match your cufflink metals to other metals in your outfit. If you are wearing a silver watch, wear silver cufflinks. If your belt buckle is gold, opt for gold cufflinks. This creates a cohesive and polished look.
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Balance is essential: Don’t let your cufflinks be the only point of interest. They should complement your outfit, not overpower it. If you have a busy tie or a bold pocket square, opt for a simpler cufflink.
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The half-inch rule: When wearing a suit jacket, a small portion of your shirt cuff should be visible, and your cufflinks should be one of the details that peeks out. A good rule of thumb is to have about half an inch of shirt cuff showing below the jacket sleeve.
Building your collection: Beyond the first pair
Once you’ve mastered the basics and are comfortable with your first pair, you can begin to build a collection that reflects your personality and style.
Unique designs
- Enamel: Cufflinks with colored enamel can add a vibrant touch to a simple outfit.
Practical example: A pair of cufflinks with a deep burgundy enamel face would be a great way to add color to a gray suit.
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Gemstones: Cufflinks with small gemstones like sapphires, rubies, or even diamonds can add a touch of luxury and sophistication.
Practical example: A pair of cufflinks with a small sapphire in the center would be a stunning addition to a tuxedo for a black-tie event.
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Novelty cufflinks: These are a fun way to express a hobby or interest. Think cufflinks in the shape of a golf club, a vintage car, or a small compass. While not for every occasion, they can be a great conversation starter at a casual gathering.
Practical example: A pair of novelty cufflinks in the shape of a bicycle would be a fun accessory for a cycling enthusiast attending a non-formal event.
Material diversification
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Silk knot cufflinks: These are a more casual and affordable option. They come in a wide range of colors and are a great way to add a pop of color to a casual blazer and shirt combination.
Practical example: A pair of bright red silk knot cufflinks would look sharp with a light blue button-down and a navy blazer.
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Wood: Wooden cufflinks offer a unique and rustic aesthetic. They are perfect for more casual or outdoor-themed events.
Practical example: A pair of cufflinks made from dark walnut would pair beautifully with a tweed jacket and a corduroy shirt.
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Customization: Consider getting a pair of cufflinks engraved with your initials or a meaningful date. This makes for a great personal touch or a thoughtful gift.
Conclusion: The confidence of a well-dressed man
Cufflinks are not just a piece of jewelry; they are an expression of your attention to detail and personal style. By understanding the basics, choosing your first pair wisely, and learning how to wear them correctly, you’ll unlock a new level of sartorial confidence. Start with a classic, versatile pair, and from there, let your collection grow as your style evolves. The simple act of fastening a cufflink is a ritual that marks the beginning of a well-dressed day. It’s a small detail, but in the world of fashion, small details make all the difference.