A Parent’s & Seamstress’s Guide: Masterfully Incorporating Darts into Children’s Clothing
Children’s clothing, often perceived as simple and boxy, can be transformed from ill-fitting garments into perfectly tailored pieces with one fundamental technique: the dart. While most home sewers and even commercial manufacturers shy away from darts in kids’ wear, believing them to be overly complex or unnecessary for small bodies, the truth is that a well-placed dart can make all the difference. It bridges the gap between a generic size and a custom fit, enhancing comfort, freedom of movement, and the overall aesthetic of a garment. This guide will walk you through the practical, step-by-step process of incorporating darts into children’s clothing, moving beyond the basics to give you a mastery of this invaluable skill.
Understanding Darts: More Than a Simple Tuck
Before we dive into the “how,” let’s clarify what a dart is in the context of children’s clothing. A dart is a shaped tuck sewn into a flat piece of fabric to give it a three-dimensional form. Unlike an adult’s body, a child’s shape is less defined, but curves and contours still exist—at the shoulder, around the chest, and particularly at the waist. A dart is the tool we use to accommodate these subtle shapes, transforming a two-dimensional pattern piece into a garment that fits a growing body like a glove. The result is clothing that doesn’t bunch, pull, or gape.
Essential Tools for Darting Success
Mastering darts starts with the right tools. You don’t need an entire haberdashery, but these items are non-negotiable for precision and a professional finish:
- Fabric Pencil or Tailor’s Chalk: For marking your dart lines on the wrong side of the fabric. A disappearing ink pen is also a great option.
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A Ruler or Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements and drawing straight lines.
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Sharp Fabric Scissors: To make a small snip at the dart point for precision.
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Fine-Pointed Pins: To hold the dart securely before sewing.
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A Sewing Machine with a Fine Needle: A universal needle in a size 70/10 or 80/12 is typically sufficient for most children’s fabrics.
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An Iron and Ironing Board: Crucial for pressing the dart to a professional finish.
Step-by-Step: Adding a Single Vertical Dart
The most common and easiest dart to start with is a single vertical dart, often used to shape the front or back of a dress or top. Here’s how to do it with a clear, practical example:
Example: Let’s say you’re making a simple A-line dress for a child and the bodice is a bit too wide at the waist, causing it to look boxy.
- Identify the Location: Lay the front bodice pattern piece (or the cut fabric) flat. The ideal location for a vertical dart is generally between the center of the chest and the side seam, aligned with the child’s natural waist. For a child, this will likely be a very shallow, narrow dart.
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Determine Dart Width and Length:
- Length: A good starting point for a child’s vertical dart is a length of 3 to 4 inches. The dart point should end at least 1 inch below the armpit line to prevent pulling.
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Width: The width at the top of the dart will determine how much fabric is taken in. A small, subtle dart for a child might start with a width of 1/2 inch at the waistline, tapering to nothing at the dart point.
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Mark the Dart:
- On the wrong side of the fabric, use your ruler and fabric pencil to draw a straight line from the waistline up to your determined dart point. This is the center line of your dart.
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From the waistline, measure out a quarter of your desired width on each side of the center line. If your total width is 1/2 inch, you’ll mark 1/4 inch on each side.
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Draw two lines from these outer points, tapering to meet at the dart point you marked earlier. You now have a triangle shape.
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Pin and Sew:
- Fold the fabric along the center line of the dart, right sides together.
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Align the two outer lines you drew and pin them together carefully.
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Start sewing from the waistline, along one of the marked lines, and sew straight up to the dart point. When you get to the point, do not backstitch. Instead, sew off the fabric in a very gentle, curved line for the last few stitches. This creates a soft, natural finish. Tie a simple knot with the thread tails to secure.
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Pressing the Dart:
- This is a critical step. Lay the garment flat and press the dart to one side. For a vertical dart, it’s typically pressed toward the center of the garment. Use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric, and a tailor’s ham can be helpful for a professional, curved finish.
Advanced Dart Placement for Specialized Fit
Once you’re comfortable with a simple vertical dart, you can explore more advanced placements to address specific fitting issues.
Darting Bodices for a Better Chest Fit
Children’s chests, while not as developed as adults’, still benefit from shaping. A well-placed dart can prevent gaping at the armholes or a “paper bag” look in the front.
Example: A girl’s dress with a round neckline that gaps or bulges around the armpit.
- Location: This is a bust dart, though on a child it’s very small. It will start at the side seam and point toward the fullest part of the chest.
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How to Mark: On the wrong side of the front bodice piece, mark a point about 1 inch below the armhole line, centered horizontally on the chest.
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Creating the Dart:
- Draw a line from the side seam (about halfway down from the armpit) to the point you marked. This is your dart leg.
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Draw a second, shorter line from the side seam to the same point. The angle between these two lines will be your dart. For a child, this will be a very shallow triangle, perhaps only 1/4 inch wide at the side seam.
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Sewing: Sew from the side seam to the dart point, again tapering off at the end. Press the finished dart downwards.
Darts for Sleeve and Shoulder Shaping
The shoulder is a key area for fit. A shoulder dart, though less common in children’s wear, can be a game-changer for a crisp, professional look on a jacket or structured top.
Example: A tailored blazer for a child that has loose fabric at the back of the shoulder.
- Location: The shoulder dart is located on the back shoulder seam of a garment.
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How to Mark: On the wrong side of the back pattern piece, draw a very shallow dart starting from the neck edge and extending about 2 inches toward the armhole, with a width of perhaps 1/4 inch at the neck. This dart is extremely subtle.
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Sewing and Pressing: Sew the dart as described previously and press it toward the center of the garment. This simple dart will subtly pull the fabric into the shoulder, preventing bagging.
Darting for Specific Garment Types
Darts aren’t limited to bodices. They can be used strategically in skirts, trousers, and even sleeves.
Skirts and Trousers: The Waistband’s Best Friend
A flat, professional waistband on a skirt or pair of shorts is a mark of a quality garment. Darts are the key to achieving this.
Example: A child’s skirt with an elastic waistband that you want to replace with a flat waistband and zipper. The waist is smaller than the hips, and the fabric bunches.
- Location: Two darts, one on each side of the center back/front, are a classic choice.
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How to Mark:
- Measure the difference between the child’s waist and hip circumference. Let’s say the waist is 20 inches and the hips are 24 inches. The pattern has a 24-inch waistline. You need to take in 4 inches total.
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Divide the excess by the number of darts. For four darts (two in the front, two in the back), that’s 1 inch per dart.
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Mark your dart: On the wrong side of the fabric, draw a dart that is 1 inch wide at the waistline and tapers to a point about 3-4 inches down.
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Repeat this on all four panels.
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Sewing: Sew and press the darts as described. The fabric will now be perfectly shaped to fit the child’s waist before you attach the waistband.
Sleeves: Adding Subtle Shape and Movement
A well-fitting sleeve doesn’t just hang; it moves with the wearer. A small dart can subtly shape the sleeve cap for a better fit into the armscye.
Example: A puffy sleeve that you want to be a bit more fitted at the top for a formal dress.
- Location: On the sleeve cap, near the shoulder seam.
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How to Mark: Draw a very small dart, perhaps 1/2 inch wide at the top and 2 inches long, centered on the sleeve cap.
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Sewing and Pressing: Sew the dart and press it open (or to one side, depending on the fabric). This simple addition will help the sleeve sit more smoothly on the shoulder without a lot of gathering.
The Power of Pressing: Don’t Skip This Step!
An unpressed dart looks messy and amateurish. Pressing is what “sets” the dart and gives it its professional, contoured shape.
- Vertical Darts: Press them toward the center of the garment.
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Horizontal Darts (like bust darts): Press them downwards.
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A Word on Fabric: Always use a pressing cloth to prevent scorching delicate fabrics like synthetics, and use the appropriate heat setting. A tailor’s ham is an excellent tool for pressing darts, as its curved shape mimics the body, allowing you to press the dart’s curve into the fabric.
Troubleshooting Common Darting Issues
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The Pucker at the Dart Point: This is a classic beginner’s mistake. It’s caused by backstitching at the point or by ending the stitching too abruptly. The key is to sew off the fabric in a gentle curve and tie the thread tails.
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The Dart is Too Prominent: The dart is too wide or too long for the child’s body. Start with smaller, shallower darts. You can always take more fabric in later.
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The Dart Looks Crooked: This is usually a marking issue. Always mark your dart lines clearly on the wrong side of the fabric before you begin. Use a ruler to ensure your lines are straight and your triangle is symmetrical.
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The Fabric is Bulky: Some fabrics, like heavy denim or corduroy, can create a bulky seam allowance inside the dart. In these cases, you can trim the seam allowance down to about 1/4 inch and press the dart open to reduce bulk.
Conclusion: The Secret to Professional Children’s Wear
Incorporating darts into children’s clothing is a skill that elevates your sewing from a hobby to a craft. It moves beyond the limitations of generic sizing to create garments that are truly a perfect fit for the wearer. The process isn’t complex, but it demands precision, patience, and attention to detail. By starting with simple vertical darts and gradually moving to more advanced placements, you will unlock a new level of fit, comfort, and professional finish in your sewing projects. The next time you see a pattern for a child’s dress or top, don’t just accept the boxy fit—reach for your fabric pencil, measure for a dart, and create a garment that is not only beautiful but also custom-tailored to the child it’s intended for. This simple technique is the secret ingredient that will make your children’s clothing projects stand out with a touch of professional polish.