You want to adjust a hemline at home, and this guide is your definitive resource. We’ll skip the fluff and get straight to the practical, actionable steps you need to know. Whether you’re a complete beginner or have some sewing experience, we’ll walk you through everything from the essential tools to the final stitch, ensuring a professional finish.
Essential Tools and Materials
Before you begin, gather your supplies. Having everything on hand makes the process smoother and prevents interruptions. You don’t need a fancy sewing machine for many of these adjustments, but some basic tools are non-negotiable.
The Measuring and Marking Kit
A good hemline starts with precise measurements and clear markings.
- Tape Measure: A flexible, fabric tape measure is a must. Don’t use a metal ruler, as it won’t conform to the curves of your body or the garment.
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Ruler or Straight Edge: A clear, plastic ruler or a yardstick is perfect for drawing straight lines.
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Fabric Chalk or Disappearing Ink Pen: These are crucial for marking your new hemline. Fabric chalk is easy to use and brushes off. A disappearing ink pen is also excellent, as the marks vanish with a bit of heat or water. Avoid using regular pens or markers, as they can stain the fabric permanently.
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Pins: You’ll need these to secure the hemline in place before you start sewing. Use sharp, fine pins to avoid damaging the fabric.
The Cutting and Sewing Kit
This is where the magic happens.
- Fabric Scissors: Invest in a good pair of sharp scissors specifically for cutting fabric. Using them on paper will dull the blades quickly. A small pair of embroidery scissors can be helpful for snipping threads.
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Needles: If you’re hand-sewing, choose a needle appropriate for your fabric type. A thin, sharp needle works for delicate fabrics, while a sturdier one is better for denim or canvas. If you’re using a machine, make sure you have the correct needle installed.
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Thread: Match your thread to your fabric. A polyester thread is a good all-purpose choice, as it’s strong and durable. Make sure the color matches the garment perfectly, or choose a shade slightly darker to blend in.
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Seam Ripper: This tool is invaluable for taking out old stitches or correcting mistakes.
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Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is a critical step that gives your hem a crisp, professional look. Don’t skip it.
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Thimble (Optional): A thimble protects your finger when hand-sewing.
The Pre-Work: Preparing Your Garment
Proper preparation is the key to a successful hemline adjustment. Don’t rush this stage; it sets the foundation for a flawless result.
Wash and Dry the Garment
Always wash and dry the garment before you start. This is crucial for two reasons:
- Shrinkage: Fabrics can shrink after the first wash. If you hem the garment and then wash it, your perfect new hemline might become crooked or too short.
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Laundering Method: Wash it the same way you plan to in the future (e.g., machine wash, hang dry).
Try On the Garment and Mark the New Hemline
This is the most critical step for getting the length right.
- Wear the shoes you plan to wear with the garment. This is especially important for pants and dresses. The height of your heels or flats will drastically change where the hemline falls.
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Stand in front of a full-length mirror.
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Have a helper mark the hemline for you. It’s nearly impossible to get an accurate, straight hem if you bend over to mark it yourself. The helper should mark the new hemline with fabric chalk or pins.
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Mark the desired finished length. Don’t mark where you’re going to cut; mark where you want the hem to end.
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Use multiple pins or marks. Place a mark every few inches around the garment to ensure a straight line.
Hemming a Simple Straight Skirt or Dress
A straight hem is the most common and easiest to master. Let’s break down the process.
Step 1: Marking and Cutting
- Lay the garment flat on a large, clean surface. Smooth out all wrinkles.
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Measure from the marked line down. The new hem allowance will be twice the width of your desired finished hem. For a 1-inch hem, you’ll need a 2-inch allowance. So, if your finished length is marked, you’ll cut 2 inches below that mark. For a 1/2-inch hem, you’ll cut 1 inch below the mark.
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Draw a new, straight cutting line. Use your ruler and fabric chalk to draw a parallel line from your original mark.
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Carefully cut along this new line. Use your sharp fabric scissors and take your time.
Step 2: Pressing and Folding
Pressing is key to a professional finish.
- First fold: Fold the fabric up once, towards the inside of the garment, along the cutting line you just made. Press this fold with your iron. This creates a neat, clean edge.
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Second fold: Now, fold the hem up a second time, hiding the raw edge. The width of this fold should be half of your total allowance (e.g., if you cut 2 inches off, this fold should be 1 inch). Press this second fold carefully. This is your finished hem.
Step 3: Pinning and Sewing
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Pin the hem in place. Place pins every few inches, perpendicular to the hemline. This prevents the fabric from shifting as you sew.
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Choose your stitch.
- Machine Sewing: A simple straight stitch is the most common. Sew a straight line very close to the top folded edge of the hem. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.
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Hand Sewing: The slip stitch or blind hem stitch is ideal for an invisible finish. This stitch hides the thread inside the folds of the fabric, making the stitching nearly invisible from the outside.
The Blind Hem Stitch (Hand-Sewn)
This is a professional, invisible stitch you can master with practice.
- Knot the thread: Knot the end of your thread and secure it inside the folded hem.
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Take a small “bite” of fabric: From the inside of the fold, pick up just one or two threads from the main garment fabric.
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Go back into the fold: Pull the needle back through the fold of the hem, about 1/4 inch away from where you took the “bite.”
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Repeat: Continue this process, taking a tiny stitch from the garment and then a longer stitch through the fold. The goal is to make the stitches on the outside of the garment so small they’re barely visible.
Hemming Pants: A Detailed Guide
Hemming pants can be a little trickier due to the curve of the leg opening and the seam allowances.
Step 1: Measuring and Marking
- Try on the pants with the correct shoes. Mark the desired finished length.
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Lay the pants flat. Using your ruler, make sure the marks are consistent all the way around the leg.
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Decide on your hem allowance. A standard hem allowance for pants is 1.5 to 2 inches. This gives you a nice, clean fold.
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Draw the cutting line. Draw a line parallel to your desired hemline, at the depth of your hem allowance. For a 1.5-inch hem, you’ll cut 1.5 inches below the mark.
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Cut the fabric. Cut along your new line, making sure to cut both legs to the same length.
Step 2: Creating the New Hem
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Fold the hem up 1/4 to 1/2 inch and press it with an iron. This is your first fold. This small fold hides the raw edge and creates a clean finish.
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Fold the hem up a second time. The width of this fold will be your final hem width (e.g., 1.5 inches). Press this fold thoroughly.
Step 3: Pinning and Sewing
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Pin the hem in place. Place pins every few inches around the leg opening.
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Sewing the Hem:
- Machine: A straight stitch is the most common for pants. Sew a line about 1/8 inch from the top folded edge.
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Hand: Use a blind hem stitch for a more professional, invisible look.
Special Hemline Techniques
Not all hemlines are created equal. Here are some techniques for different fabric types and styles.
The Rolled Hem: For Delicate Fabrics
A rolled hem is perfect for thin, delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, or organza. It creates a very narrow, delicate hemline that doesn’t add bulk.
- Pre-trim the hem: Use sharp scissors to trim the hemline so it’s perfectly straight.
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First fold: Fold the hem up just 1/8 inch and press.
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Second fold: Fold it up a second time, another 1/8 inch, to enclose the raw edge. Press again.
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Sewing: Stitch very close to the top of the folded edge. The seam should be incredibly narrow and neat. If you’re using a machine, a special rolled hem foot can make this process much easier.
The Serged Hem: For Knits and Stretchy Fabrics
Knit fabrics don’t fray, so you have more options. A serger is a machine that cuts and finishes the edge in one step, creating a professional-looking seam. If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag stitch on a regular machine is an excellent alternative.
- Mark and cut the new hemline.
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Press the hem allowance up once.
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Use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edge. This stitch allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.
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Fold the hem up again and sew a straight stitch to secure it. This gives you a clean, stretchy hemline.
The Hem with Facing: For Curved Hems
A facing is a piece of fabric sewn to the hem of a curved garment, like a circular skirt. It provides a clean, professional finish where a simple fold would create puckers and bulk.
- Cut the facing: Cut a strip of fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain). This allows it to stretch and conform to the curve. The width of the facing should be about 2 inches.
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Sew the facing to the garment: With right sides together, pin and sew the facing to the raw edge of the hem.
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Clip the seam allowance: Make small cuts in the seam allowance around the curve. This helps the fabric lay flat.
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Press and fold: Press the seam allowance up, into the facing. Then, fold the facing to the inside of the garment.
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Secure the facing: You can either hand-sew the facing down with a blind stitch or topstitch it with a machine.
Troubleshooting Common Hemming Problems
Even the most experienced sewers run into issues. Here’s how to fix common problems.
Puckering or Wavy Hems
This usually happens with lightweight fabrics or when the fabric is stretched while sewing.
- Solution: Don’t pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. Use a walking foot on your machine if you have one. It feeds the top and bottom layers of fabric at the same rate, preventing stretching. Pressing the hem thoroughly before you sew is also crucial.
Crooked Hemlines
A crooked hem is almost always a result of inaccurate marking.
- Solution: Go back and remeasure. Always have a helper mark the new hemline while you’re wearing the garment and standing upright. A seam gauge can also help you ensure a consistent hem allowance.
Visible Stitches
If your stitches are showing on the outside of the garment, you’re either using the wrong stitch or your tension is off.
- Solution: For a machine-sewn hem, check your tension settings. For a hand-sewn blind hem, your stitches are probably too big. Make sure you’re only picking up one or two threads from the main fabric.
Conclusion: The Final Press and Polish
Once your hem is sewn, the final step is to give it a good press. This step is often overlooked but is essential for a professional finish. Using a steam iron, press the new hemline flat. This will set your stitches and give the garment a crisp, store-bought look. You’ve now successfully adjusted a hemline at home, saving time and money while gaining a valuable skill. With practice, you’ll be able to tackle any hemline with confidence.