How to Make Your Own Inseam Alterations: A DIY Guide

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Making your own inseam alterations is a game-changer for anyone who has ever struggled to find the perfect fit. Instead of settling for pants that bunch at your ankles or skirts that hit at an awkward length, you can take control and tailor your garments to your exact measurements. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, providing the knowledge and confidence you need to achieve professional-looking results right at home.

Whether you’re a seasoned sewist or a complete beginner, this article will break down everything you need to know, from the essential tools to the specific techniques for different types of garments. We’ll focus on clarity, practicality, and actionable advice so you can get started on your next project with ease.

Essential Tools for Inseam Alterations

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools. Having the right equipment makes the process smoother and ensures a higher quality finish.

  • Fabric Scissors: Invest in a sharp pair specifically for cutting fabric. Using them on paper will dull the blades.

  • Seam Ripper: This small tool is essential for carefully and quickly removing existing stitches.

  • Measuring Tape: A flexible, retractable measuring tape is a must-have for accurate measurements.

  • Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker: Use this to mark your cut lines without damaging the fabric.

  • Straight Pins: These are used to hold the fabric in place before you sew.

  • Sewing Machine: While some alterations can be done by hand, a sewing machine will provide a more durable and professional finish.

  • Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing your seams is a critical step that gives your alterations a crisp, clean look.

  • Matching Thread: Choose a thread that is the same color and weight as the original stitching on your garment.

  • Ruler: A ruler or a sewing gauge helps to create straight, even lines.

Understanding the Inseam

The inseam is the seam that runs from the crotch of your pants down to the bottom of the leg opening. When you alter the inseam, you’re either shortening or lengthening the garment in this specific area. Most alterations involve shortening the inseam, which is what we will focus on primarily in this guide. We will also touch on how to handle more complex situations, such as lengthening a hem.

Prepping Your Garment: The Crucial First Step

Proper preparation is key to a successful alteration. Do not skip these steps.

  1. Wash and Dry: Always wash and dry your garment before you make any alterations. Fabrics can shrink, and you want to ensure the final fit is accurate.

  2. Try It On: Put on the garment and a pair of shoes you would typically wear with it. This is the most important step for getting an accurate measurement.

  3. Pin the New Hem: While wearing the garment, carefully fold the excess fabric to the desired length. Use straight pins to secure the fold all the way around the leg opening. Make sure the hem is even and straight. You may need a friend to help you with this to ensure the back is pinned correctly.

  4. Mark the New Hem Line: Take off the garment and use your tailor’s chalk or fabric marker to draw a straight line along the pinned fold. This line represents your new hemline.

Altering Pants: A Step-by-Step Guide

Pants are one of the most common garments to alter. The process is straightforward, but it requires precision.

Shortening Woven Pants (Jeans, Trousers, Slacks)

This method is suitable for most non-stretch or low-stretch woven fabrics.

Step 1: Measure and Mark

After you have prepped your garment, lay the pants flat on a table. Measure the distance from the new hemline you marked to the original hem. This is the amount you will be shortening the pants by. Use a ruler to double-check that the new hemline is a consistent distance from the bottom of the pant leg.

Step 2: Calculate the Hem Allowance

A standard hem allowance is about 1 to 1.5 inches. This is the amount of fabric you need to fold up to create a clean hem.

  • Measure the original hem allowance. If the original hem was a single fold of 1 inch, you’ll want to replicate that.

  • The final cut line will be based on the new hemline and your hem allowance. For a 1-inch double-folded hem, you’ll need to cut 2 inches below your marked new hemline.

  • For example, if you want to shorten your pants by 4 inches, and you want a 1-inch double-folded hem:

    • Mark your new hemline 4 inches above the original hem.

    • Measure 2 inches below that new hemline.

    • This is your cutting line.

Step 3: Cut the Excess Fabric

Using your sharp fabric scissors, carefully cut along your calculated cutting line. Cut both pant legs at the same time to ensure they are the same length.

Step 4: Sew the New Hem

  1. First Fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up by half of your hem allowance (e.g., 1 inch for a 2-inch hem allowance). Press this fold with your iron.

  2. Second Fold: Fold the fabric up again, this time to your marked new hemline. Press this fold again. This creates a double-folded hem that hides the raw edge.

  3. Pin and Sew: Pin the hem in place all the way around the leg opening.

  4. Sewing Machine Settings: Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch. Use a stitch length of about 2.5.

  5. Stitching: Start sewing a few inches from the inseam. Sew close to the folded edge, maintaining a consistent distance. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches. Repeat for the other pant leg.

Shortening Jeans While Preserving the Original Hem

This technique is a favorite among DIY-ers because it allows you to shorten jeans without losing that authentic, worn-in look of the original hem.

Step 1: Measure and Mark

Just like with other pants, try on the jeans and pin them to the desired length. Mark the new hemline with tailor’s chalk.

Step 2: Rip the Original Hem

Carefully use your seam ripper to remove the original hem stitches. This will free up the extra fabric you need to work with.

Step 3: Calculate the New Hem

  • Measure the distance from your new hemline to the original hemline.

  • Let’s say you need to shorten the jeans by 3 inches.

  • Lay the jeans flat. Fold the original hem up so that it aligns with your new hemline. The excess fabric will be folded inward, hidden inside the pant leg.

  • Pin this fold in place.

Step 4: Sew the New Hem

  1. Sewing Line: On your sewing machine, set the needle to a straight stitch.

  2. Stitching: Start sewing a few inches from the inseam. Sew a new seam along the line of the original hem. This new seam will hold the folded fabric in place. Use a sturdy thread and a needle appropriate for denim.

  3. Trim the Excess: Carefully turn the jeans inside out. Trim the excess fabric, leaving about a half-inch seam allowance.

  4. Finish the Edge: To prevent fraying, you can use a zigzag stitch or a serger to finish the raw edge of the fabric you just trimmed.

  5. Press: Iron the new hem flat.

Altering Skirts and Dresses

The principles of inseam alteration can be applied to skirts and dresses. The key difference is that the ‘inseam’ is the entire circumference of the hem.

Shortening a Straight-Hem Skirt

Step 1: Measure and Mark

Put on the skirt or dress and a pair of shoes you’ll wear with it. Have a friend pin the new hemline all the way around the skirt, ensuring it is even and straight. Mark the new hemline with tailor’s chalk.

Step 2: Calculate and Cut

  • Measure the distance from the new hemline to the original hem. This is how much you will shorten the skirt.

  • Determine your hem allowance. A standard hem is 1 to 1.5 inches.

  • Add the hem allowance to your shortening measurement. For a 1-inch double-folded hem, you’ll need to cut 2 inches below your new marked hemline.

  • Lay the skirt flat and cut the excess fabric.

Step 3: Sew the New Hem

  1. First Fold: Fold the raw edge up by half of the hem allowance (e.g., 1 inch for a 2-inch allowance). Press with your iron.

  2. Second Fold: Fold the fabric up again to meet your marked new hemline. Press again.

  3. Pin and Sew: Pin the hem in place. Sew the new hem with a straight stitch, sewing close to the folded edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Altering a Curved or A-Line Skirt

This is slightly more challenging, but still very doable.

Step 1: Measure and Mark

Follow the same steps as for a straight-hem skirt, but be extra careful when marking the new hemline. The curve of the hem needs to be consistent.

Step 2: Create a Guide for the Curve

  • Use a flexible ruler or a measuring tape to measure the length of the skirt from the waistband down to your new marked hemline at various points around the skirt.

  • Ensure the measurement is consistent. This is your guide for the new hem.

Step 3: Cut the Excess

  • Lay the skirt flat. Mark a second line that is your hem allowance below the new hemline.

  • Cut along this second line.

Step 4: Sew the New Hem

  • Basting Stitch: This is a crucial step for curved hems. Before you sew the final hem, sew a long, loose stitch (a basting stitch) along the new hemline you marked. This helps to create a guide for the final fold.

  • First Fold: Fold the raw edge up to the basting stitch line. Press this with your iron.

  • Second Fold: Fold it up again, making sure the hem is even all the way around. Press.

  • Pin and Sew: Pin the hem in place. Sew the new hem with a straight stitch, sewing close to the folded edge.

  • Remove Basting Stitches: Once you’re done sewing, carefully pull out the basting stitches.

Lengthening an Inseam

Lengthening a garment is more complex than shortening, as it requires you to add fabric. This is typically only possible if there is enough fabric folded into the original hem.

Step 1: Rip the Original Hem

Use your seam ripper to carefully remove the original hem stitches.

Step 2: Press the Fabric

Use an iron to press the folded fabric flat. This will reveal any extra length. Be aware that the fabric that was folded may have a permanent crease or a different color due to sun exposure.

Step 3: Add Fabric (if necessary)

If the extra fabric from the original hem is not enough, you will need to add a new piece of fabric.

  • Find a piece of fabric that matches the garment as closely as possible.

  • Cut a strip of this fabric that is the same width as the pant leg opening and the length you need to add, plus seam allowances.

  • Sew the new fabric strip to the original hem of the garment, using a straight stitch.

  • Press the seam open.

Step 4: Hem the New Fabric

  • Hem the new fabric in the same way you would for shortening a garment. A double-folded hem is a good option to create a clean finish.

  • Iron the finished hem.

Advanced Inseam Alterations

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can tackle more challenging projects.

Altering a Lined Garment

Lined garments, like formal trousers or skirts, require an extra step. The lining needs to be altered in the same way as the outer fabric.

  • Separate the Lining: Carefully use your seam ripper to separate the lining from the outer fabric at the hem.

  • Alter the Outer Fabric: Shorten the outer fabric as you normally would.

  • Alter the Lining: Shorten the lining by the same amount as the outer fabric, but be sure to make the lining a half-inch shorter than the outer fabric. This prevents the lining from showing below the hem.

  • Reattach the Lining: Fold the lining’s raw edge up and sew it back to the outer fabric, creating a clean finish.

Adjusting the Taper or Width of a Pant Leg

If you want to alter the inseam and the width of the pant leg, you’ll need to work on the entire length of the inseam.

  1. Mark the New Seam: Put on the pants inside out. Use tailor’s chalk to mark a new, narrower seam line from the knee down to the hem.

  2. Pin and Sew: Pin along your new seam line. Sew with a straight stitch along the chalk line.

  3. Trim and Finish: Trim the excess fabric, leaving a half-inch seam allowance. Use a zigzag stitch or a serger to finish the raw edge.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

  • Puckered Seams: This is often caused by incorrect tension on your sewing machine. Check your machine’s manual and adjust the tension until your stitches are even on both sides of the fabric.

  • Wavy Hems: This can happen with knits or stretchy fabrics. Use a ballpoint needle, which won’t snag the fabric, and a walking foot on your sewing machine to prevent stretching.

  • Uneven Hems: The most common cause of an uneven hem is improper marking. Always try on the garment and have a friend help you pin the new hem to ensure it is straight.

The Power of Practice

Like any skill, sewing takes practice. Start with a simple project, like shortening a pair of old trousers. The more you practice, the more comfortable and confident you will become. You’ll develop a feel for different fabrics and techniques, and soon you’ll be able to tackle any inseam alteration with ease.

By following this guide, you are not only learning how to make inseam alterations; you’re also taking the first step toward a more sustainable and personalized wardrobe. Instead of discarding clothes that don’t fit perfectly, you’ll be able to give them new life and a custom fit. The satisfaction of wearing a garment that is perfectly tailored to your body is a reward in itself.