Creating your own patterns is a transformative skill for any aspiring tailor or fashion enthusiast. It allows you to move beyond commercial patterns, designing garments that are truly unique and custom-fitted. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential techniques and steps to draft your own patterns from scratch, enabling you to bring your creative vision to life. We’ll focus on practical, actionable methods that are easy to follow and produce professional results.
Understanding the Fundamentals of Pattern Making
Before you dive in, it’s crucial to understand the basic principles. Pattern making is essentially a form of technical drawing, translating a three-dimensional body into a two-dimensional paper representation. The goal is to create a blueprint that accounts for fit, drape, and seam allowances.
Essential Tools of the Trade
You’ll need a specific set of tools to ensure accuracy and ease. Don’t skimp on these; they are your most valuable assets.
- Pattern Paper: Heavy-duty, translucent paper is best. It allows you to see through to make adjustments and copy patterns easily.
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Rulers: A variety of rulers are essential. A straight ruler for straight lines, a hip curve for hip and side seams, and a French curve for armholes, necklines, and other curved areas.
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Measuring Tape: A flexible, double-sided measuring tape is non-negotiable for taking body measurements.
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Pencils and Erasers: Use a sharp pencil (a mechanical pencil is ideal) for precise lines.
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Scissors: One pair for paper and a separate, sharp pair for fabric. Never use fabric scissors on paper, as it dulls them.
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Tracing Wheel: A serrated wheel used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric or another piece of paper.
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Awl or Notcher: For making small cuts or holes to mark pattern points.
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Pattern Weights: Heavy objects to hold your pattern in place on fabric.
The Foundation: The Sloper (Block)
A sloper, also known as a block, is a basic, form-fitting pattern without any design features, seams, or allowances. It’s the foundation from which all other patterns are drafted. Starting with a well-fitting sloper is the key to creating successful and customized designs.
We will focus on drafting a basic bodice and skirt sloper, as these are the building blocks for countless garments, from dresses to blouses and jackets.
Drafting the Bodice Sloper
The bodice sloper is a half-pattern, representing one side of the front and one side of the back. You’ll create a front and back piece.
Taking Accurate Body Measurements
Precision is paramount here. Wear form-fitting clothes (or none at all) to get the most accurate measurements.
- Full Bust: Measure the fullest part of your bust.
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Upper Bust: Measure just above the fullest part of your bust, right under your armpits.
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Waist: Measure the smallest part of your waist.
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High Hip: Measure 3-4 inches below your waist.
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Hip: Measure the fullest part of your hips.
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Shoulder Width: Measure from the tip of one shoulder to the other.
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Back Width: Measure across your back from armpit to armpit.
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Shoulder to Bust Point: Measure from the highest point of your shoulder down to the fullest part of your bust.
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Bust Point to Bust Point: Measure the distance between the fullest part of your busts.
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Waist to Bust Point: Measure from your natural waistline up to your bust point.
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Front Length: Measure from the base of your neck (at the side of your collarbone) to your natural waistline, passing over your bust point.
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Back Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck down to your natural waistline.
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Armhole Depth: Measure from the highest point of your shoulder down to a point under your arm where you feel your armpit crease.
The Front Bodice Sloper
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Start with a Rectangle: On your pattern paper, draw a rectangle. The length of the rectangle is your Front Length measurement. The width is 1/4 of your Full Bust measurement + 1 inch for ease.
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Establish Key Horizontal Lines:
- Bust Line: Draw a line across the rectangle at your Armhole Depth measurement, starting from the top.
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Waist Line: This is the bottom line of your rectangle.
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Establish Key Vertical Lines:
- Center Front (CF): This is the left vertical line of your rectangle.
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Side Seam: This is the right vertical line of your rectangle.
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Drafting the Neckline:
- From the top left corner (CF), measure down 2 inches and mark a point.
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Measure to the right 2.5 inches and mark a point.
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Use your French curve to connect these points, creating a smooth neckline curve.
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Drafting the Shoulder:
- From the top left corner (CF), measure to the right 1/2 of your Shoulder Width measurement and mark a point (this is your shoulder point).
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From this shoulder point, measure down 1.5 inches and mark a new point.
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Connect the shoulder point to the neckline point.
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Creating the Bust Dart:
- Measure from the CF line to the right, 1/2 of your Bust Point to Bust Point measurement. Mark a vertical line down to your waistline. This is your Bust Apex Line.
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Mark your Bust Apex Point on this line, located at your Waist to Bust Point measurement from the waistline.
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From your side seam, mark a point on the bust line. The distance from the side seam to this point is 1/4 of your Full Bust measurement – 1/4 of your Waist measurement.
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Connect this point to your Bust Apex Point. This is one leg of your bust dart.
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To find the second leg, measure down 1 inch from the first leg on the side seam, then connect that point back to the Bust Apex Point. This creates your bust dart.
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Drafting the Waist Dart:
- The waist dart is centered on the Bust Apex Line.
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Measure out 1/2 inch on either side of the Bust Apex Line on the waistline.
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Connect these two points to your Bust Apex Point. This is your waist dart.
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Shaping the Armhole:
- From your shoulder point, measure down a diagonal line to the bust line.
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Use your French curve to shape the armhole, making it a smooth curve that passes through your bust line. The deepest part of the curve should be just at the bust line.
The Back Bodice Sloper
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Start with a Rectangle: Draw a new rectangle. The length is your Back Length measurement. The width is 1/4 of your Upper Bust measurement + 1 inch.
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Establish Key Horizontal Lines:
- Bust Line: Draw a line across the rectangle at your Armhole Depth measurement from the top.
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Waist Line: This is the bottom line.
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Drafting the Neckline:
- From the top right corner (Center Back, CB), measure down 1 inch and mark a point.
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Measure to the left 2.5 inches and mark a point.
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Use your French curve to connect these points.
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Drafting the Shoulder:
- From the top right corner (CB), measure to the left 1/2 of your Shoulder Width measurement and mark a point.
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From this point, measure down 2 inches and mark a new point.
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Connect this point to the neckline point.
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Creating the Back Dart:
- Measure to the left from the CB line, 1/2 of your Back Width measurement and draw a vertical line from your armhole to your waistline.
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On your waistline, measure out 3/4 inch on either side of this vertical line.
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Connect these points to a point on your armhole line, about 2 inches above the bust line.
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Shaping the Armhole:
- Using your French curve, connect the shoulder point to the side seam, creating a smooth curve.
Drafting the Skirt Sloper
The skirt sloper is the foundation for a-line skirts, pencil skirts, and more. We will draft a basic, straight skirt sloper.
Taking Accurate Skirt Measurements
- Waist: The smallest part of your waist.
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Hip: The fullest part of your hips.
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Waist to Hip: The vertical distance from your waist to your hip line.
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Skirt Length: The desired length of your skirt, from your waist down.
The Front Skirt Sloper
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Start with a Rectangle: Draw a rectangle. The width is 1/4 of your Hip measurement + 1 inch for ease. The length is your Skirt Length measurement.
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Establish Key Horizontal Lines:
- Waist Line: This is the top line of the rectangle.
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Hip Line: Draw a line across the rectangle at your Waist to Hip measurement, starting from the top.
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Hem Line: This is the bottom line of the rectangle.
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Drafting the Waistline:
- On the waistline, measure in from the side seam 1/4 of your Waist measurement. Mark this point.
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Connect this point to the hip line, creating a smooth side seam curve.
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Creating the Waist Dart:
- Measure the difference between 1/4 of your Hip measurement and 1/4 of your Waist measurement. This is your dart intake.
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On the waistline, from the center front, measure in a few inches and mark the center of your dart.
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Measure out 1/2 of your dart intake on either side of this center point.
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Measure down 4 to 5 inches from the waistline. Connect the dart points to this bottom point, creating a dart.
The Back Skirt Sloper
The back skirt sloper is drafted similarly to the front, but with a couple of key differences.
- Start with a Rectangle: Same dimensions as the front sloper.
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Establish Key Horizontal Lines: Same as the front.
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Drafting the Waistline: Same as the front.
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Creating the Waist Dart:
- The dart intake is the same.
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The back dart is often slightly longer and wider to accommodate the curve of the buttocks.
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Measure down 5 to 6 inches from the waistline for the dart length.
Turning Your Sloper into a Custom Pattern
Now that you have your basic slopers, you can begin to manipulate them to create any design you can imagine. This is where the magic happens.
The Slash and Spread Method
This is a fundamental technique for adding volume, flair, or new seams to your pattern.
- Slash: Draw a line on your pattern where you want to add volume (e.g., from the shoulder to the hem for a flared top, or from the waist to the hem for an A-line skirt).
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Cut: Cut along this line from the edge, stopping just before the opposite edge. This creates a hinge.
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Spread: Place a new piece of paper underneath and spread the cut pieces apart. The distance you spread them determines the amount of volume you add. Tape the new pieces down.
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Redraw: Use your ruler and French curve to redraw the outer edges, creating a new, smooth pattern piece.
Example: Creating a Flared Skirt
- Take your skirt sloper.
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Draw several vertical lines from the waist down to the hem.
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Cut along these lines, stopping just before the waistline.
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Spread the cut pieces apart, creating a flare.
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Tape onto a new piece of paper and redraw the hemline and side seams.
The Pivot Method (Dart Manipulation)
This technique is used to move darts to a new location. It’s perfect for creating design lines like princess seams or asymmetrical details.
- Identify the Dart: Locate the dart you want to move (e.g., the waist dart on the bodice sloper).
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Pivot: Place the tip of an awl or a pin at the apex of the dart.
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Rotate: Rotate your pattern paper around the apex, closing the old dart and opening a new one in the desired location.
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Trace: Trace the new pattern piece with the new dart location.
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Example: Creating a Princess Seam
- On your bodice front, pivot the waist dart and the side bust dart to a point on the armhole line.
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Trace the two new pattern pieces, one with a new dart from the waist and one with a new dart from the bust, both meeting at the armhole.
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This will create a new seam line that runs from the armhole, through the bust point, and down to the waist, eliminating the original darts.
Adding Seam Allowances
A sloper has no seam allowances, so you must add them before cutting your fabric.
- Determine the Seam Allowance: A standard seam allowance is 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch. For a beginner, a 5/8-inch allowance is a good choice as it provides a bit more room for error.
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Mark the Seam Allowance: Use a ruler to mark a parallel line outside of your pattern’s edges. This new line is your cutting line.
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Cut: Cut your fabric along this new, outer line.
Finishing Touches and Final Checks
Before you cut into your expensive fabric, you need to finalize your pattern.
Labeling Your Pattern Pieces
This is a step you can’t afford to skip. It prevents confusion and costly mistakes.
- Pattern Name: Write the name of your garment (e.g., “A-Line Skirt”).
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Piece Name: Label each piece (e.g., “Front Bodice,” “Back Skirt”).
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Cut Quantity: Indicate how many of each piece to cut (e.g., “Cut 2 on fold”).
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Grainline: Draw an arrow to indicate the grainline. The grainline should always be parallel to the selvage of your fabric.
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Notches: Mark notches on your pattern pieces. Notches are small cuts that help you align and match up pieces when you’re sewing. Mark them on the waist, hips, and other key points.
Creating a Muslin (Toile)
A muslin, or toile, is a test garment made from a cheap, similar-weight fabric (like cotton muslin). This step is non-negotiable.
- Cut and Sew: Cut out your pattern pieces from the muslin, including all darts and notches. Sew the garment together with a basic straight stitch. Don’t worry about finishing seams.
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Fit and Adjust: Try on the muslin. Pin, tuck, and mark any adjustments you need to make directly on the fabric. This is where you fine-tune the fit.
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Transfer Changes: Once you’re happy with the fit, take the muslin apart and transfer all the changes you made back onto your paper pattern.
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Finalize: Cut your final pattern pieces with the adjustments.
Conclusion
Mastering pattern making is a journey that begins with a solid understanding of the fundamentals. By starting with basic slopers and learning how to manipulate them with techniques like slash-and-spread and pivot methods, you can create a limitless number of personalized designs. The key is to be meticulous with your measurements, patient with your process, and always, always create a muslin. With this guide, you have the tools and the knowledge to move beyond commercial patterns and craft a truly unique and perfectly fitting wardrobe.