How to Master the Art of Increasing and Decreasing Stitches

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The Artisan’s Guide to Increasing and Decreasing Stitches: Your Masterclass in Shaping Fabric

In the world of knitting and crochet, the ability to increase and decrease stitches is not just a technique—it’s a form of artistry. It’s the difference between a flat, two-dimensional piece of fabric and a sculpted, three-dimensional garment that hugs the body in all the right places. This guide is your definitive masterclass, moving you beyond the basics and into the realm of confident, intentional shaping. We’ll strip away the jargon and get straight to the practical, hands-on knowledge you need to transform your work from a simple rectangle into a masterpiece of fit and form.

The Foundation of Form: Why Increases and Decreases Matter

Before we dive into the “how,” let’s briefly touch on the “why.” Increases add stitches to your row or round, expanding your fabric. Decreases remove them, contracting your fabric. Together, they are the architectural tools of the yarn world, used to:

  • Shape Garments: Creating armholes, necklines, sleeves, and tapered waists.

  • Create Texture and Lace: Forming intricate patterns that rely on the interplay of added and removed stitches.

  • Achieve a Flawless Fit: Tailoring a piece to the unique contours of a body, ensuring comfort and style.

  • Construct Amigurumi and Toys: Building the spherical and curved shapes that bring characters to life.

Mastering these techniques is the gateway to a world of advanced patterns and custom design. Let’s begin our journey.

Part 1: The Essential Knitted Increases

Knitting offers a variety of increase methods, each with its own visual effect and practical application. Understanding these differences allows you to choose the perfect increase for your project.

Method 1: The M1 (Make One) Increase

The M1 is the most common and versatile increase. It’s nearly invisible and creates a small, subtle loop that blends seamlessly into the surrounding fabric. There are two variations: M1L (left-leaning) and M1R (right-leaning).

How to do M1R (Make One Right)

  1. Locate the horizontal bar of yarn that lies between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on your left needle.

  2. With your right needle, lift this bar from the back. It should be resting on your right needle with the right side of the loop facing forward.

  3. Knit into the front of this new loop. This will twist the stitch, closing the hole that would otherwise form.

  4. You have now created a new stitch that leans to the right.

How to do M1L (Make One Left)

  1. Locate the same horizontal bar of yarn between the two stitches.

  2. With your left needle, lift this bar from the front. It should be resting on your left needle with the left side of the loop facing forward.

  3. Knit into the back of this new loop. Again, this twists the stitch to prevent a hole.

  4. You have created a new stitch that leans to the left.

Practical Application: Use M1R and M1L in tandem on either side of a central stitch to create symmetrical increases, such as for a V-neck sweater or the raglan lines of a top-down garment.

Method 2: The KFB (Knit Front and Back) Increase

The KFB is a quick and easy increase that creates a small purl bump, making it a visible increase. This is ideal for when you want the increase to be part of the design or for a more rustic, textured fabric.

How to do KFB

  1. Knit into the front of the next stitch as you normally would, but do not drop the old stitch off the left needle.

  2. Insert your right needle into the back loop of that same stitch on the left needle.

  3. Yarn over and pull the loop through.

  4. Drop the old stitch off the left needle.

  5. You have now created two stitches from one, with a small purl bump on the new stitch.

Practical Application: Use KFB for shaping shoulders, at the edge of a hat brim, or to create a textured detail in a pattern. It’s also a great go-to for adding a single stitch without worrying about direction.

Method 3: The Yarn Over (YO) Increase

The Yarn Over is unique because it’s not a true increase in the sense of adding a new strand of yarn, but rather creating a new stitch by wrapping the yarn around the needle. This leaves a small, intentional hole, making it the cornerstone of lace knitting.

How to do Yarn Over (YO)

  • YO between knit stitches: Bring your working yarn to the front of your work (as if to purl), then take it over the top of your right needle and back to the knitting position. Knit the next stitch.

  • YO between purl stitches: Bring your working yarn over the top of your right needle to the back, then under and back to the front (ready to purl the next stitch).

  • YO between a knit and a purl: Bring your working yarn from the back to the front, over the top of the right needle, and back to the front. Purl the next stitch.

Practical Application: The YO is the building block of any lace pattern, from a simple eyelet row to complex shawls. Its primary function is to create negative space and beautiful, openwork fabric.

Part 2: The Essential Knitted Decreases

Just as increases add form, decreases subtract it, bringing your fabric inward. The key to a professional finish is understanding how a decrease’s lean (left or right) affects the overall look of your project.

Method 1: The K2tog (Knit Two Together) Decrease

The K2tog is the most common right-leaning decrease. It’s clean, simple, and a foundational technique for shaping.

How to do K2tog

  1. Insert your right needle into the front loops of the next two stitches on your left needle at the same time.

  2. Yarn over and pull a loop through both stitches simultaneously.

  3. Drop both old stitches off the left needle.

  4. You have decreased one stitch, and the resulting stitch leans to the right.

Practical Application: Use K2tog to shape the right side of an armhole, a neckline, or a tapered waist. It’s often paired with an SSK to create a symmetrical look.

Method 2: The SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit) Decrease

The SSK is the quintessential left-leaning decrease. Its symmetrical counterpart to the K2tog, the SSK creates a smooth, elegant decrease that is almost imperceptible.

How to do SSK

  1. Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise (inserting the needle as if to knit).

  2. Slip the second stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise.

  3. Insert your left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches.

  4. Knit them together. This may feel a bit awkward at first, but it gets easier with practice.

  5. You have decreased one stitch, and the resulting stitch leans to the left.

Practical Application: Use SSK to shape the left side of an armhole, a neckline, or to match the lean of a K2tog on the opposite side of a garment.

Method 3: The P2tog (Purl Two Together) Decrease

The P2tog is the purl-side version of the K2tog. It’s used when you need to decrease on a purl row or in a purl section of a pattern.

How to do P2tog

  1. Insert your right needle into the front of the next two stitches on your left needle as if to purl.

  2. Yarn over and pull the loop through both stitches simultaneously.

  3. Drop both old stitches off the left needle.

  4. This creates a right-leaning decrease on the purl side, which will look like a right-leaning decrease on the knit side of your work.

Practical Application: Use P2tog to maintain the purl texture of a ribbing or a textured pattern while decreasing stitches.

Method 4: The Ssp (Slip, Slip, Purl) Decrease

The Ssp is the purl-side equivalent of the SSK, creating a left-leaning decrease.

How to do Ssp

  1. Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise.

  2. Slip the second stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise.

  3. Insert your left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches.

  4. Purl them together. This can be tricky, so take your time.

  5. This creates a left-leaning decrease on the purl side, which will look like a left-leaning decrease on the knit side of your work.

Practical Application: Use Ssp when you need a left-leaning decrease in a purl section to mirror a P2tog on the opposite side.

Part 3: The Essential Crochet Increases

Crochet offers a more straightforward approach to increases and decreases, but the placement and execution are just as crucial for a professional finish.

Method 1: The Basic Increase

The basic crochet increase is simply working more than one stitch into a single stitch from the previous row. This is the foundation for all shaping.

How to do a Basic Increase (e.g., in a Single Crochet)

  1. Work a single crochet into the next stitch as you normally would.

  2. Insert your hook into that same stitch again.

  3. Work another single crochet.

  4. You have now created two stitches from one.

Practical Application: This is the go-to increase for amigurumi to create a sphere, for adding width to a hat brim, or for flaring a skirt. The principle is the same for half-double crochet, double crochet, and beyond.

Method 2: The Shell Stitch Increase

A shell stitch is a cluster of stitches worked into a single stitch or space. It’s a decorative increase often used in lace and textured patterns.

How to do a Shell Stitch

  1. Work a specified number of stitches (e.g., 5 double crochet) into a single stitch or space.

  2. This creates a fan-like or “shell” shape.

Practical Application: Shell stitches are the centerpiece of many decorative patterns and are used to create beautiful scalloped edges or openwork fabric.

Part 4: The Essential Crochet Decreases

Crochet decreases are all about “stitching together” multiple stitches into one, reducing your stitch count and creating a tapered effect.

Method 1: The Sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together) Decrease

The sc2tog is the most common single crochet decrease, and it’s the foundation for shaping in amigurumi and other projects. It’s sometimes called a “single crochet invisible decrease.”

How to do a Sc2tog

  1. Insert your hook into the next stitch.

  2. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have two loops on your hook.

  3. Insert your hook into the next stitch.

  4. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have three loops on your hook.

  5. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook.

  6. You have decreased one stitch.

Practical Application: This is the standard decrease for amigurumi, hat crowns, and any other project that requires a smooth, consistent reduction in stitches.

Method 2: The Hdc2tog (Half-Double Crochet Two Together) Decrease

This decrease is used when working with half-double crochet stitches and provides a slightly different texture than the sc2tog.

How to do Hdc2tog

  1. Yarn over.

  2. Insert your hook into the next stitch.

  3. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have three loops on your hook.

  4. Yarn over again and insert your hook into the next stitch.

  5. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have five loops on your hook.

  6. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all five loops on your hook.

  7. You have decreased one stitch.

Practical Application: Use Hdc2tog to maintain a consistent half-double crochet fabric while shaping a garment or a hat.

Method 3: The Dc2tog (Double Crochet Two Together) Decrease

The dc2tog is a staple for shaping with double crochet stitches. It’s often used in afghans, cardigans, and other larger projects.

How to do Dc2tog

  1. Yarn over.

  2. Insert your hook into the next stitch.

  3. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have three loops on your hook.

  4. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You have two loops left on your hook. (Stop here; do not complete the double crochet).

  5. Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch.

  6. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You have four loops on your hook.

  7. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You have three loops left on your hook.

  8. Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops.

  9. You have decreased one stitch.

Practical Application: This is the primary decrease for double crochet, used to create the tapered lines of a sweater, a chevron pattern, or the crown of a hat.

Part 5: Masterclass Techniques and Troubleshooting

Now that you have the foundational skills, let’s refine your craft with some advanced tips and problem-solving strategies.

Symmetrical Shaping: The Secret to Professional Garments

The key to a polished, professional-looking garment lies in symmetrical shaping. For knitted garments, this means pairing a left-leaning decrease with a right-leaning decrease, and vice versa.

  • Example: For a V-neck, decrease at the beginning of a right-side row with a K2tog and at the end of the row with an SSK. This creates two decreases that mirror each other perfectly.

  • Another Example: For raglan shaping, a K2tog on the right side of the raglan line and an SSK on the left side of the raglan line will create a clean, V-shaped line.

Invisible Decreases for a Seamless Finish

For amigurumi or other projects where a smooth, hole-free surface is critical, learn the invisible decrease. For single crochet, this means inserting your hook into the front loop of the first stitch, then into the front loop of the second stitch, and then completing a single crochet. This minimizes the bulk of the decrease and prevents gaps.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

  • Holes Appearing: If you’re using M1 increases and seeing holes, it means you’re likely not twisting the stitch. Revisit the instructions for M1L and M1R, ensuring you pick up the bar of yarn from the correct direction to create a twisted loop.

  • Decreases Leaning Incorrectly: A common mistake is using a K2tog when a SSK is needed, and vice versa. Always check your pattern and the direction your decrease needs to lean. Remember, K2tog leans right, and SSK leans left.

  • Uneven Fabric: When increasing and decreasing, tension is paramount. Ensure you are maintaining a consistent tension throughout your work. A too-tight increase will pucker the fabric, while a too-loose one will create a sloppy look.

Conclusion: Beyond the Stitch

You are now armed with the practical knowledge to increase and decrease stitches with confidence and precision. This isn’t just about following a pattern; it’s about understanding the “why” behind each technique. The right increase or decrease, executed with care, can elevate your work from a simple craft to a wearable piece of art. Start with the basics, practice until the movements are second nature, and then begin to experiment. Your journey to mastering the art of shaping fabric has just begun.