The cut crease is a makeup technique celebrated for its ability to create depth and drama, defining the eyelid with a sharp, clean line. But for those with hooded eyes, the very anatomy that makes this look so striking can also feel like an insurmountable obstacle. Hooded eyes, characterized by a fold of skin from the brow bone that covers the eyelid, often obscure traditional eyeshadow placements. The frustration is real: you spend time crafting a perfect crease line, only for it to disappear the moment you open your eyes.
This isn’t just about a different technique; it’s about a different philosophy. Mastering the cut crease for hooded eyes isn’t about fighting your natural eye shape, but rather, working with it. This guide will walk you through a series of seven game-changing tips, transforming the way you approach this iconic look. We’ll skip the fluff and get straight to the practical, actionable advice you need to create a flawless, visible cut crease that stays put and flatters your unique eye shape.
1. The Power of the “Floating” Crease: Drawing Your New Reality
The fundamental mistake many with hooded eyes make is attempting to draw their cut crease where their natural crease actually is. The skin fold will swallow this line whole. The solution is to create a “floating” crease—a new, higher crease line drawn above your natural one, on the visible skin of your brow bone area.
How to do it:
- Prep is key: Start with a fully prepped eye. A good eyeshadow primer is non-negotiable. It creates a smooth base, enhances color payoff, and prevents creasing. For this technique, a primer is a crucial step to ensure your “floating” crease doesn’t smudge or fade into the skin.
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Look straight ahead: The most important step is to look directly into a mirror with your eyes open and relaxed. This is when your hooded lid is most visible. You want to see exactly where the crease line will be when your eyes are open.
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Mark it out: Use a small, firm, and angled brush with a matte eyeshadow that is two to three shades darker than your skin tone. Instead of following the natural fold of your eyelid, trace a new, curved line just above it. This line should be visible when your eyes are open. Start at the outer corner and gently sweep it inward, following the natural curve of your eye socket but placing it higher than you would for a standard look.
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Blend upward, not inward: Once your guide line is established, use a soft, fluffy brush to blend the top edge of this line upward, towards your brow bone. This softens the transition and creates a gradient effect, but do not blend it down into the visible eyelid space. Blending downward will defeat the purpose of creating a sharp line. The bottom edge of the line should remain crisp.
Concrete Example: Instead of placing the crease line in the natural fold, place it about 2-3 millimeters above that fold. If your natural crease disappears when your eyes are open, your “floating” crease should be placed where it will be fully visible, acting as a new, higher boundary for your eyeshadow.
2. Choosing the Right Tools: Precision is Your Best Friend
You can’t build a house with a hammer and a pair of pliers. Similarly, you can’t create a sharp, defined cut crease with big, fluffy brushes. The tools you use will directly impact the precision and crispness of your final look.
How to do it:
- For the crease line: Use a small, dense, and firm brush. An angled eyeliner brush or a flat, synthetic concealer brush works perfectly. The stiffness of the bristles gives you the control needed to draw a precise, sharp line. Avoid soft blending brushes for this step; they will create a soft, blurred edge, which is the opposite of what a cut crease requires.
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For the cut portion (the lid): The best tool for applying concealer or a lid color is a flat, synthetic, paddle-style brush. The synthetic fibers don’t absorb as much product as natural bristles, ensuring a concentrated, opaque application. The flat shape allows you to press the product onto the eyelid and get a clean, sharp edge against the crease line.
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For blending the transition: Use a small, fluffy dome brush to blend the shadow above your floating crease. The size is important; a larger brush will make it difficult to control the placement and could accidentally blend your sharp line away.
Concrete Example: For drawing the cut crease line, try a Morphe M165 or a Sigma E06. For applying the lid concealer, a MAC 242 or a NYX Pro Crease Brush is ideal. For blending the transition color above the crease, a Sigma E25 is a great choice.
3. The Concealer Cut: Mastering the Clean Sweep
This is the most critical and potentially daunting step. The “cut” in cut crease comes from the sharp contrast created by applying a lighter, brighter shade to the lid. The key to a successful cut crease on hooded eyes is to use the right product and a precise application method to create a clean, visible lid space.
How to do it:
- Use the right product: Don’t use a sheer eyeshadow base. Instead, use a full-coverage, opaque concealer or a specialized eyeshadow primer in a light shade. A liquid or cream concealer that sets to a matte or semi-matte finish is perfect. This creates a stark canvas that makes your lid color pop and provides a clean edge against the darker crease shade.
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The “dot and stamp” method: Start by placing a small dot of concealer on the center of your mobile lid. With your eye open and relaxed, look straight ahead. Use your flat, synthetic brush to gently stamp the concealer up to your newly drawn floating crease line. This ensures you’re only applying the concealer to the visible part of your eyelid, keeping the crease line crisp.
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Define the shape: Use the edge of your flat brush to carefully clean up the line beneath your floating crease. Drag the brush from the inner corner of your eye to the outer corner, sweeping away any stray eyeshadow and creating a perfect, clean arc. You can also use a small amount of micellar water on an angled brush to get an even sharper line.
Concrete Example: Use a full-coverage concealer like Tarte Shape Tape or a dedicated eyeshadow base like P.Louise Base. For the “dot and stamp” method, you’ll see the concealer transfer to the top of your floating crease, showing you exactly how high to take the product. Use this transfer mark as your guide.
4. The Angle of Attack: Tilted Application for Maximum Visibility
The way you apply your eyeshadow can either make or break the look. For hooded eyes, a straight-on approach can often lead to a messy application and a lost crease. Tilting your head and using specific angles can dramatically improve visibility and precision.
How to do it:
- Tilt your head back: When applying the darker crease color, tilt your head slightly back and look down into your mirror. This pulls the skin of your brow bone taut, making it easier to draw a smooth, uninterrupted line. It also gives you a better view of the area where you need to place your floating crease.
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Keep your eyes open: While drawing the floating crease line, keep your eyes open. This is crucial for hooded eyes. If you close your eyes, you’ll be drawing on a flat surface, and the line will disappear when you open them. By keeping them open, you can ensure the line is placed exactly where you want it to be visible.
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For the cut portion: Tilt your chin up and look down into a hand mirror to apply the lid color or concealer. This position gives you a clear, unobstructed view of your mobile lid, allowing you to press the product on with extreme precision without smudging the top edge of your cut crease.
Concrete Example: While drawing your floating crease, instead of having the mirror directly in front of you, place it slightly below your eye level and tilt your chin up. This simple change in position gives you a much clearer canvas to work with.
5. Shadow Selection and Placement: The Illusion of Depth
The types of eyeshadows you use and where you place them are critical for creating the illusion of a larger, more defined eye. The right combination can make your hooded eyes appear more open and less recessed.
How to do it:
- Matte over shimmer in the crease: Always use a matte eyeshadow for your floating crease line and for blending into the transition area. Shimmer, glitter, or satin finishes can catch the light and make the area appear to come forward, which is the opposite of the recessed, deep look a cut crease is meant to create.
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Shimmer on the lid: Use a shimmering, metallic, or glitter eyeshadow on the cut part of your lid. This is where you can have fun and add sparkle. The reflective nature of these finishes will make the lid area pop and appear larger, creating a beautiful contrast with the deep matte crease.
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Highlight the brow bone: Use a light, matte shade (or a very subtle satin) to highlight the brow bone, just under your eyebrow. This lifts the brow and further enhances the contrast between the dark crease and the lighter brow area.
Concrete Example: For your floating crease, a warm, matte brown like “Warm Taupe” or a deep plum shade works well. For the lid, a vibrant metallic gold, a duochrome lilac, or a chunky glitter pigment would be stunning. For the brow bone, a matte cream or a soft bone-white shade will provide a clean lift.
6. The Perfect Wing: Elevating the Outer Corner
A traditional winged liner can be tricky for hooded eyes. The fold of skin can break or hide the wing. A special “bat wing” or “hooded eye wing” technique is a game-changer for finishing a cut crease.
How to do it:
- Don’t follow the lash line: Start your wing by drawing a line upward from the outer corner of your eye, following the angle of your lower lash line. The key is to draw this line while your eyes are open and looking straight ahead. This ensures the wing is visible and doesn’t get lost in the hood.
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Connect the tip: From the tip of this upward line, draw a second line back into the crease, creating a small triangle. The line will look a bit disconnected and strange when your eyes are closed—this is normal. It will look perfect when your eyes are open.
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Fill and thicken: Fill in the triangle and then carefully connect the wing to the rest of your lash line. You can thicken the line as you go, but for hooded eyes, a thinner line is often more flattering as it doesn’t take up too much precious lid space.
Concrete Example: Instead of drawing a straight wing that extends from the outer lash line, draw a line that shoots directly out and up, forming the top edge of your wing. Then, with your eye open, connect the tip of that line back down to a point in the middle of your eyelid, creating a visible winged shape that appears unbroken.
7. Lash and Liner Magic: The Final Touches
The right mascara and false lashes can complete the illusion and make your cut crease truly shine. These final touches are what bring the entire look together.
How to do it:
- Tightline, don’t waterline: Tightlining involves applying eyeliner to the upper waterline, the area under your top lashes. This makes your lashes look thicker and darker at the root without taking up any visible eyelid space. This is a crucial step for hooded eyes. Avoid applying thick liner on the top of your lash line, as it will cover up the hard work you did on your cut crease.
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Maximize with mascara: Curl your lashes and apply a generous coat of a volumizing and lengthening mascara. Focus on the base of your lashes to build volume, and then wiggle the wand to the tips to add length.
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Lashes for the win: False lashes are a fantastic finishing touch for hooded eyes. They add drama and open up the eye. Look for lashes that have a staggered length or are longer at the outer corner. Avoid overly dense, heavy lashes that will weigh down your eyelid and hide your beautiful cut crease work. Lashes that have a more wispy, fluttery appearance are ideal.
Concrete Example: Instead of a thick black liquid liner on your eyelid, use a black kohl pencil to tightline your upper waterline. When choosing lashes, opt for a style like Ardell Wispies or Lilly Lashes in “Miami” over a very dense, uniform lash.
The cut crease for hooded eyes is not a myth. It’s a skill that requires a different approach, a new way of thinking about your unique eye shape. By implementing these seven game-changing tips, you’re not just learning a makeup technique; you’re learning to celebrate your features. These strategies empower you to take control of your look, creating a defined, dramatic, and visible cut crease that works with your hooded eyes, not against them.